Ah. It might be regional/business differences. In my neck of the woods
most (but not all) the cars I see in boneyards still have their engines
in place, and that's where they stay when they go to the chipper. Tires
and gas tanks come off, everything else metallic ends up on a boat to China.


L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> Hi Lee,
> I don't think so, but most are cut when they pull the engine. Only
> the car where the engine's going, will the installer take the time to
> unplug and screw, to reuse the harness.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Lee Ayrton wrote:
>
>>I was thinking the same thing. For Jeeps from a decade earlier all he'd
>>have to do would be to trot down to the local boneyard, pull one bolt
>>from the center of the firewall connector and yoink out the engine
>>harness half, complete with connector block, leaving the lighting
>>harness behind. Way quicker and easier than leaning over a fender all
>>day, splicing wires. Did electrical systems change much by `88 to
>>prevent this?
>>
>>L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
>>
>>>H Howard,
>>> I would wrap the individual wires, if it looks like that may take
>>>too long, than I would look through the local bone yards for a plug and
>>>play.
>>> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>>>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>>
>>>phelan@west-point.org wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>I have an 88 YJ, 4.2 L 6cyl, that is in need of wiring harness
>>>>repair/replacement. The section that runs right over the exhaust
>>>>manifold has been laying directly on the manifold for some time now.
>>>>As a result, there is about an 18 inch section where all of the wires
>>>>have lost all of their insulation and are fully exposed to all of the
>>>>other wires that have also lost their insulation. Not a good
>>>>situation. Additionally, the vacuum hoses were melted and fried, but
>>>>these were easy to replace. No one makes a wiring harness specifically
>>>>for this year. Painless makes a universal kit that would work, but
>>>>with much pain and agony.
>>>>My question is whether or not I can splice 18 inch sections into the
>>>>existing harness. Clearly this would be much easier than replacing it
>>>>with a new harness and would get me back on the road much quicker. But
>>>>I don't want to do it if there is something significantly wrong with
>>>>that technique.
>>>>What are the drawbacks and/or risks in doing this? What type of
>>>>connection should I use? Solder? I assume there are small male and
>>>>female plugs that I could buy.
>>>>One of my coworkers suggested just wrapping the existing wires with
>>>>electrical tape, and that soldering in a patch would be bad because it
>>>>would make the wire too brittle.
>>>>Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
>>>>
>>>>Howard

 

Ah. It might be regional/business differences. In my neck of the woods
most (but not all) the cars I see in boneyards still have their engines
in place, and that's where they stay when they go to the chipper. Tires
and gas tanks come off, everything else metallic ends up on a boat to China.


L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> Hi Lee,
> I don't think so, but most are cut when they pull the engine. Only
> the car where the engine's going, will the installer take the time to
> unplug and screw, to reuse the harness.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Lee Ayrton wrote:
>
>>I was thinking the same thing. For Jeeps from a decade earlier all he'd
>>have to do would be to trot down to the local boneyard, pull one bolt
>>from the center of the firewall connector and yoink out the engine
>>harness half, complete with connector block, leaving the lighting
>>harness behind. Way quicker and easier than leaning over a fender all
>>day, splicing wires. Did electrical systems change much by `88 to
>>prevent this?
>>
>>L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
>>
>>>H Howard,
>>> I would wrap the individual wires, if it looks like that may take
>>>too long, than I would look through the local bone yards for a plug and
>>>play.
>>> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>>>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>>
>>>phelan@west-point.org wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>I have an 88 YJ, 4.2 L 6cyl, that is in need of wiring harness
>>>>repair/replacement. The section that runs right over the exhaust
>>>>manifold has been laying directly on the manifold for some time now.
>>>>As a result, there is about an 18 inch section where all of the wires
>>>>have lost all of their insulation and are fully exposed to all of the
>>>>other wires that have also lost their insulation. Not a good
>>>>situation. Additionally, the vacuum hoses were melted and fried, but
>>>>these were easy to replace. No one makes a wiring harness specifically
>>>>for this year. Painless makes a universal kit that would work, but
>>>>with much pain and agony.
>>>>My question is whether or not I can splice 18 inch sections into the
>>>>existing harness. Clearly this would be much easier than replacing it
>>>>with a new harness and would get me back on the road much quicker. But
>>>>I don't want to do it if there is something significantly wrong with
>>>>that technique.
>>>>What are the drawbacks and/or risks in doing this? What type of
>>>>connection should I use? Solder? I assume there are small male and
>>>>female plugs that I could buy.
>>>>One of my coworkers suggested just wrapping the existing wires with
>>>>electrical tape, and that soldering in a patch would be bad because it
>>>>would make the wire too brittle.
>>>>Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
>>>>
>>>>Howard

 

Yes, the screaming Greenies are spending our tax dollars at the
rate of a thousand dollars an engine to break their blocks in the name
of pollution, here in Kalifornia.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Lee Ayrton wrote:
>
> Ah. It might be regional/business differences. In my neck of the woods
> most (but not all) the cars I see in boneyards still have their engines
> in place, and that's where they stay when they go to the chipper. Tires
> and gas tanks come off, everything else metallic ends up on a boat to China.

 

Yes, the screaming Greenies are spending our tax dollars at the
rate of a thousand dollars an engine to break their blocks in the name
of pollution, here in Kalifornia.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Lee Ayrton wrote:
>
> Ah. It might be regional/business differences. In my neck of the woods
> most (but not all) the cars I see in boneyards still have their engines
> in place, and that's where they stay when they go to the chipper. Tires
> and gas tanks come off, everything else metallic ends up on a boat to China.

 

Yes, the screaming Greenies are spending our tax dollars at the
rate of a thousand dollars an engine to break their blocks in the name
of pollution, here in Kalifornia.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Lee Ayrton wrote:
>
> Ah. It might be regional/business differences. In my neck of the woods
> most (but not all) the cars I see in boneyards still have their engines
> in place, and that's where they stay when they go to the chipper. Tires
> and gas tanks come off, everything else metallic ends up on a boat to China.

 

Stuff like this can be easily, quickly, and permanently fixed with crimps.
They make a type that has an heat-shrink insulator, so squeeze some
dielectric grease in, crimp the wires, heat shrink the insulator, and you
are done. The dielectric will prevent any moisture from getting in and
corroding. Tie the whole mess away from the exhaust with some Adel clamps to
prevent having to do it again.
It's only a car, why waste time overdoing it?
--
Stupendous Man,
Defender of Freedom, Advocate of Liberty

 

Stuff like this can be easily, quickly, and permanently fixed with crimps.
They make a type that has an heat-shrink insulator, so squeeze some
dielectric grease in, crimp the wires, heat shrink the insulator, and you
are done. The dielectric will prevent any moisture from getting in and
corroding. Tie the whole mess away from the exhaust with some Adel clamps to
prevent having to do it again.
It's only a car, why waste time overdoing it?
--
Stupendous Man,
Defender of Freedom, Advocate of Liberty

 

Stuff like this can be easily, quickly, and permanently fixed with crimps.
They make a type that has an heat-shrink insulator, so squeeze some
dielectric grease in, crimp the wires, heat shrink the insulator, and you
are done. The dielectric will prevent any moisture from getting in and
corroding. Tie the whole mess away from the exhaust with some Adel clamps to
prevent having to do it again.
It's only a car, why waste time overdoing it?
--
Stupendous Man,
Defender of Freedom, Advocate of Liberty

 

Been an electronics technician for 20 years....
Don't use crimp connectors or reinsulate with electrical tape. Both are bad
practices.
Do it right, and solder in new wires. I'd recommend you go to the boneyard
as someone else said and find that part of the wire loom, cut out the part
you need keeping everything intact from the bad area to the terminus of each
wire as practically as possible and replace the whole shooting match.
Stagger the solder connections, use rosin core not acid core solder, and be
sure to use flux on the wires.
First and foremost if you don't have experience at soldering, PRACTICE on
some other wires to get the technique down before going in. Soldering is
very easy with a bit of practice and guidance.
Lastly use heatshrink on each connection and make sure it forms a tight
seal.

"Stupendous Man" <spam@trap.com> wrote in message
news:3t7ph8Fr7vgdU1@individual.net...
> Stuff like this can be easily, quickly, and permanently fixed with
> crimps. They make a type that has an heat-shrink insulator, so squeeze
> some dielectric grease in, crimp the wires, heat shrink the insulator, and
> you are done. The dielectric will prevent any moisture from getting in and
> corroding. Tie the whole mess away from the exhaust with some Adel clamps
> to prevent having to do it again.
> It's only a car, why waste time overdoing it?
> --
> Stupendous Man,
> Defender of Freedom, Advocate of Liberty
>

 

Been an electronics technician for 20 years....
Don't use crimp connectors or reinsulate with electrical tape. Both are bad
practices.
Do it right, and solder in new wires. I'd recommend you go to the boneyard
as someone else said and find that part of the wire loom, cut out the part
you need keeping everything intact from the bad area to the terminus of each
wire as practically as possible and replace the whole shooting match.
Stagger the solder connections, use rosin core not acid core solder, and be
sure to use flux on the wires.
First and foremost if you don't have experience at soldering, PRACTICE on
some other wires to get the technique down before going in. Soldering is
very easy with a bit of practice and guidance.
Lastly use heatshrink on each connection and make sure it forms a tight
seal.

"Stupendous Man" <spam@trap.com> wrote in message
news:3t7ph8Fr7vgdU1@individual.net...
> Stuff like this can be easily, quickly, and permanently fixed with
> crimps. They make a type that has an heat-shrink insulator, so squeeze
> some dielectric grease in, crimp the wires, heat shrink the insulator, and
> you are done. The dielectric will prevent any moisture from getting in and
> corroding. Tie the whole mess away from the exhaust with some Adel clamps
> to prevent having to do it again.
> It's only a car, why waste time overdoing it?
> --
> Stupendous Man,
> Defender of Freedom, Advocate of Liberty
>