Replacing 94 YJ Cooling System 4.0L
05-18-2004 | 11:22 PM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Replacing 94 YJ Cooling System 4.0L
Just ordered a 3 core all metal copper rad, all new hoses,
clamps, thermostat w/ gasket. I also want to replace the
water pump and tube that goes to the heater core. All the
hoses and clamps are OEM. I currently have original hoses
and clamps w/ 193K miles so I'm happy with them since they
don't cut the hose or put too much pressure on the core
and water tubes. I was going to go with a new water pump
from the dealer but I have heard that re-man water pumps
are better than new. So I am going to my local NAPA and
order one. Is there a better water pump then the original
out there? I have the I6 w/o AC and a serpentine.
I also checked my fan clutch by shutting off the engine
and watching to see if the fan would still spin but it
went off right away.
The thermostat housing looks tired but it is still working
okay with a little coolant color leaking and boiling
out of the bottom, above the pump.
The radiator is shot. It's the original aluminum with
the plastic tanks. The fins are rotting off holds water
but is leaking slowly when the seams get hot and cold.
What else should I be looking for in replacing the coolant
system. I tested the guage by shorting out the wire off
the temp sensor and that pegged the temp meter. The
expansion tank looks okay IMO. I will also buy a new
radiator cap.
Is the original thermostat okay to run or should I use
a cooler one? What is the temp where the computer (if any)
would sense that the engine is running at normal temp
and using the proper mix and feedback. I am guessing
anything above 160?
I think this is considered a closed system because I have
an expansion tank?
It doesn't look like a hard job and I might have to get
some new radiator hardware bolts and screws to install
the new one. There are extra in and outs which are
probably for AT or oil cooling but it should be seperate
from the main core. I will leave them open and they
should be okay.
--
<html><form><input type crash></form></html>
nospam@zero.com Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail
clamps, thermostat w/ gasket. I also want to replace the
water pump and tube that goes to the heater core. All the
hoses and clamps are OEM. I currently have original hoses
and clamps w/ 193K miles so I'm happy with them since they
don't cut the hose or put too much pressure on the core
and water tubes. I was going to go with a new water pump
from the dealer but I have heard that re-man water pumps
are better than new. So I am going to my local NAPA and
order one. Is there a better water pump then the original
out there? I have the I6 w/o AC and a serpentine.
I also checked my fan clutch by shutting off the engine
and watching to see if the fan would still spin but it
went off right away.
The thermostat housing looks tired but it is still working
okay with a little coolant color leaking and boiling
out of the bottom, above the pump.
The radiator is shot. It's the original aluminum with
the plastic tanks. The fins are rotting off holds water
but is leaking slowly when the seams get hot and cold.
What else should I be looking for in replacing the coolant
system. I tested the guage by shorting out the wire off
the temp sensor and that pegged the temp meter. The
expansion tank looks okay IMO. I will also buy a new
radiator cap.
Is the original thermostat okay to run or should I use
a cooler one? What is the temp where the computer (if any)
would sense that the engine is running at normal temp
and using the proper mix and feedback. I am guessing
anything above 160?
I think this is considered a closed system because I have
an expansion tank?
It doesn't look like a hard job and I might have to get
some new radiator hardware bolts and screws to install
the new one. There are extra in and outs which are
probably for AT or oil cooling but it should be seperate
from the main core. I will leave them open and they
should be okay.
--
<html><form><input type crash></form></html>
nospam@zero.com Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail
05-18-2004 | 11:56 PM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Replacing 94 YJ Cooling System 4.0L
Good move, Chrysler's plastic tank radiators are crap. Mine went south at
60k.
If you plan on keeping this vvhicle a while I'd replaces all the hoses with
factory fresh or the equivalent. The factory clamps are superb, but a PITA
to remove without a proper tool. I used a big pair of channel locks to get
the main ones off, but it was still a curse-fest. Keep the stock rated
thermostat or the thing will never warm up in winter, should be 195 degrees.
They made a bunch of them in '94 with the wrong ones and the dealers used to
swap them out per a service bulletin for free. Doubt they will do that for
you now, but who knows.
At that mileage swapping out the water pump is probably a good idea, I'd
also replace the serpentine belt as long as you're taking it off.
"Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message
news:40aac4dd_2@nntp2.nac.net...
> Just ordered a 3 core all metal copper rad, all new hoses,
> clamps, thermostat w/ gasket. I also want to replace the
> water pump and tube that goes to the heater core. All the
> hoses and clamps are OEM. I currently have original hoses
> and clamps w/ 193K miles so I'm happy with them since they
> don't cut the hose or put too much pressure on the core
> and water tubes. I was going to go with a new water pump
> from the dealer but I have heard that re-man water pumps
> are better than new. So I am going to my local NAPA and
> order one. Is there a better water pump then the original
> out there? I have the I6 w/o AC and a serpentine.
>
> I also checked my fan clutch by shutting off the engine
> and watching to see if the fan would still spin but it
> went off right away.
>
> The thermostat housing looks tired but it is still working
> okay with a little coolant color leaking and boiling
> out of the bottom, above the pump.
>
> The radiator is shot. It's the original aluminum with
> the plastic tanks. The fins are rotting off holds water
> but is leaking slowly when the seams get hot and cold.
>
> What else should I be looking for in replacing the coolant
> system. I tested the guage by shorting out the wire off
> the temp sensor and that pegged the temp meter. The
> expansion tank looks okay IMO. I will also buy a new
> radiator cap.
>
> Is the original thermostat okay to run or should I use
> a cooler one? What is the temp where the computer (if any)
> would sense that the engine is running at normal temp
> and using the proper mix and feedback. I am guessing
> anything above 160?
>
> I think this is considered a closed system because I have
> an expansion tank?
>
> It doesn't look like a hard job and I might have to get
> some new radiator hardware bolts and screws to install
> the new one. There are extra in and outs which are
> probably for AT or oil cooling but it should be seperate
> from the main core. I will leave them open and they
> should be okay.
>
> --
> <html><form><input type crash></form></html>
> nospam@zero.com Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail
60k.
If you plan on keeping this vvhicle a while I'd replaces all the hoses with
factory fresh or the equivalent. The factory clamps are superb, but a PITA
to remove without a proper tool. I used a big pair of channel locks to get
the main ones off, but it was still a curse-fest. Keep the stock rated
thermostat or the thing will never warm up in winter, should be 195 degrees.
They made a bunch of them in '94 with the wrong ones and the dealers used to
swap them out per a service bulletin for free. Doubt they will do that for
you now, but who knows.
At that mileage swapping out the water pump is probably a good idea, I'd
also replace the serpentine belt as long as you're taking it off.
"Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message
news:40aac4dd_2@nntp2.nac.net...
> Just ordered a 3 core all metal copper rad, all new hoses,
> clamps, thermostat w/ gasket. I also want to replace the
> water pump and tube that goes to the heater core. All the
> hoses and clamps are OEM. I currently have original hoses
> and clamps w/ 193K miles so I'm happy with them since they
> don't cut the hose or put too much pressure on the core
> and water tubes. I was going to go with a new water pump
> from the dealer but I have heard that re-man water pumps
> are better than new. So I am going to my local NAPA and
> order one. Is there a better water pump then the original
> out there? I have the I6 w/o AC and a serpentine.
>
> I also checked my fan clutch by shutting off the engine
> and watching to see if the fan would still spin but it
> went off right away.
>
> The thermostat housing looks tired but it is still working
> okay with a little coolant color leaking and boiling
> out of the bottom, above the pump.
>
> The radiator is shot. It's the original aluminum with
> the plastic tanks. The fins are rotting off holds water
> but is leaking slowly when the seams get hot and cold.
>
> What else should I be looking for in replacing the coolant
> system. I tested the guage by shorting out the wire off
> the temp sensor and that pegged the temp meter. The
> expansion tank looks okay IMO. I will also buy a new
> radiator cap.
>
> Is the original thermostat okay to run or should I use
> a cooler one? What is the temp where the computer (if any)
> would sense that the engine is running at normal temp
> and using the proper mix and feedback. I am guessing
> anything above 160?
>
> I think this is considered a closed system because I have
> an expansion tank?
>
> It doesn't look like a hard job and I might have to get
> some new radiator hardware bolts and screws to install
> the new one. There are extra in and outs which are
> probably for AT or oil cooling but it should be seperate
> from the main core. I will leave them open and they
> should be okay.
>
> --
> <html><form><input type crash></form></html>
> nospam@zero.com Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail
05-18-2004 | 11:56 PM
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Replacing 94 YJ Cooling System 4.0L
Good move, Chrysler's plastic tank radiators are crap. Mine went south at
60k.
If you plan on keeping this vvhicle a while I'd replaces all the hoses with
factory fresh or the equivalent. The factory clamps are superb, but a PITA
to remove without a proper tool. I used a big pair of channel locks to get
the main ones off, but it was still a curse-fest. Keep the stock rated
thermostat or the thing will never warm up in winter, should be 195 degrees.
They made a bunch of them in '94 with the wrong ones and the dealers used to
swap them out per a service bulletin for free. Doubt they will do that for
you now, but who knows.
At that mileage swapping out the water pump is probably a good idea, I'd
also replace the serpentine belt as long as you're taking it off.
"Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message
news:40aac4dd_2@nntp2.nac.net...
> Just ordered a 3 core all metal copper rad, all new hoses,
> clamps, thermostat w/ gasket. I also want to replace the
> water pump and tube that goes to the heater core. All the
> hoses and clamps are OEM. I currently have original hoses
> and clamps w/ 193K miles so I'm happy with them since they
> don't cut the hose or put too much pressure on the core
> and water tubes. I was going to go with a new water pump
> from the dealer but I have heard that re-man water pumps
> are better than new. So I am going to my local NAPA and
> order one. Is there a better water pump then the original
> out there? I have the I6 w/o AC and a serpentine.
>
> I also checked my fan clutch by shutting off the engine
> and watching to see if the fan would still spin but it
> went off right away.
>
> The thermostat housing looks tired but it is still working
> okay with a little coolant color leaking and boiling
> out of the bottom, above the pump.
>
> The radiator is shot. It's the original aluminum with
> the plastic tanks. The fins are rotting off holds water
> but is leaking slowly when the seams get hot and cold.
>
> What else should I be looking for in replacing the coolant
> system. I tested the guage by shorting out the wire off
> the temp sensor and that pegged the temp meter. The
> expansion tank looks okay IMO. I will also buy a new
> radiator cap.
>
> Is the original thermostat okay to run or should I use
> a cooler one? What is the temp where the computer (if any)
> would sense that the engine is running at normal temp
> and using the proper mix and feedback. I am guessing
> anything above 160?
>
> I think this is considered a closed system because I have
> an expansion tank?
>
> It doesn't look like a hard job and I might have to get
> some new radiator hardware bolts and screws to install
> the new one. There are extra in and outs which are
> probably for AT or oil cooling but it should be seperate
> from the main core. I will leave them open and they
> should be okay.
>
> --
> <html><form><input type crash></form></html>
> nospam@zero.com Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail
60k.
If you plan on keeping this vvhicle a while I'd replaces all the hoses with
factory fresh or the equivalent. The factory clamps are superb, but a PITA
to remove without a proper tool. I used a big pair of channel locks to get
the main ones off, but it was still a curse-fest. Keep the stock rated
thermostat or the thing will never warm up in winter, should be 195 degrees.
They made a bunch of them in '94 with the wrong ones and the dealers used to
swap them out per a service bulletin for free. Doubt they will do that for
you now, but who knows.
At that mileage swapping out the water pump is probably a good idea, I'd
also replace the serpentine belt as long as you're taking it off.
"Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message
news:40aac4dd_2@nntp2.nac.net...
> Just ordered a 3 core all metal copper rad, all new hoses,
> clamps, thermostat w/ gasket. I also want to replace the
> water pump and tube that goes to the heater core. All the
> hoses and clamps are OEM. I currently have original hoses
> and clamps w/ 193K miles so I'm happy with them since they
> don't cut the hose or put too much pressure on the core
> and water tubes. I was going to go with a new water pump
> from the dealer but I have heard that re-man water pumps
> are better than new. So I am going to my local NAPA and
> order one. Is there a better water pump then the original
> out there? I have the I6 w/o AC and a serpentine.
>
> I also checked my fan clutch by shutting off the engine
> and watching to see if the fan would still spin but it
> went off right away.
>
> The thermostat housing looks tired but it is still working
> okay with a little coolant color leaking and boiling
> out of the bottom, above the pump.
>
> The radiator is shot. It's the original aluminum with
> the plastic tanks. The fins are rotting off holds water
> but is leaking slowly when the seams get hot and cold.
>
> What else should I be looking for in replacing the coolant
> system. I tested the guage by shorting out the wire off
> the temp sensor and that pegged the temp meter. The
> expansion tank looks okay IMO. I will also buy a new
> radiator cap.
>
> Is the original thermostat okay to run or should I use
> a cooler one? What is the temp where the computer (if any)
> would sense that the engine is running at normal temp
> and using the proper mix and feedback. I am guessing
> anything above 160?
>
> I think this is considered a closed system because I have
> an expansion tank?
>
> It doesn't look like a hard job and I might have to get
> some new radiator hardware bolts and screws to install
> the new one. There are extra in and outs which are
> probably for AT or oil cooling but it should be seperate
> from the main core. I will leave them open and they
> should be okay.
>
> --
> <html><form><input type crash></form></html>
> nospam@zero.com Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail
05-18-2004 | 11:56 PM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Replacing 94 YJ Cooling System 4.0L
Good move, Chrysler's plastic tank radiators are crap. Mine went south at
60k.
If you plan on keeping this vvhicle a while I'd replaces all the hoses with
factory fresh or the equivalent. The factory clamps are superb, but a PITA
to remove without a proper tool. I used a big pair of channel locks to get
the main ones off, but it was still a curse-fest. Keep the stock rated
thermostat or the thing will never warm up in winter, should be 195 degrees.
They made a bunch of them in '94 with the wrong ones and the dealers used to
swap them out per a service bulletin for free. Doubt they will do that for
you now, but who knows.
At that mileage swapping out the water pump is probably a good idea, I'd
also replace the serpentine belt as long as you're taking it off.
"Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message
news:40aac4dd_2@nntp2.nac.net...
> Just ordered a 3 core all metal copper rad, all new hoses,
> clamps, thermostat w/ gasket. I also want to replace the
> water pump and tube that goes to the heater core. All the
> hoses and clamps are OEM. I currently have original hoses
> and clamps w/ 193K miles so I'm happy with them since they
> don't cut the hose or put too much pressure on the core
> and water tubes. I was going to go with a new water pump
> from the dealer but I have heard that re-man water pumps
> are better than new. So I am going to my local NAPA and
> order one. Is there a better water pump then the original
> out there? I have the I6 w/o AC and a serpentine.
>
> I also checked my fan clutch by shutting off the engine
> and watching to see if the fan would still spin but it
> went off right away.
>
> The thermostat housing looks tired but it is still working
> okay with a little coolant color leaking and boiling
> out of the bottom, above the pump.
>
> The radiator is shot. It's the original aluminum with
> the plastic tanks. The fins are rotting off holds water
> but is leaking slowly when the seams get hot and cold.
>
> What else should I be looking for in replacing the coolant
> system. I tested the guage by shorting out the wire off
> the temp sensor and that pegged the temp meter. The
> expansion tank looks okay IMO. I will also buy a new
> radiator cap.
>
> Is the original thermostat okay to run or should I use
> a cooler one? What is the temp where the computer (if any)
> would sense that the engine is running at normal temp
> and using the proper mix and feedback. I am guessing
> anything above 160?
>
> I think this is considered a closed system because I have
> an expansion tank?
>
> It doesn't look like a hard job and I might have to get
> some new radiator hardware bolts and screws to install
> the new one. There are extra in and outs which are
> probably for AT or oil cooling but it should be seperate
> from the main core. I will leave them open and they
> should be okay.
>
> --
> <html><form><input type crash></form></html>
> nospam@zero.com Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail
60k.
If you plan on keeping this vvhicle a while I'd replaces all the hoses with
factory fresh or the equivalent. The factory clamps are superb, but a PITA
to remove without a proper tool. I used a big pair of channel locks to get
the main ones off, but it was still a curse-fest. Keep the stock rated
thermostat or the thing will never warm up in winter, should be 195 degrees.
They made a bunch of them in '94 with the wrong ones and the dealers used to
swap them out per a service bulletin for free. Doubt they will do that for
you now, but who knows.
At that mileage swapping out the water pump is probably a good idea, I'd
also replace the serpentine belt as long as you're taking it off.
"Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message
news:40aac4dd_2@nntp2.nac.net...
> Just ordered a 3 core all metal copper rad, all new hoses,
> clamps, thermostat w/ gasket. I also want to replace the
> water pump and tube that goes to the heater core. All the
> hoses and clamps are OEM. I currently have original hoses
> and clamps w/ 193K miles so I'm happy with them since they
> don't cut the hose or put too much pressure on the core
> and water tubes. I was going to go with a new water pump
> from the dealer but I have heard that re-man water pumps
> are better than new. So I am going to my local NAPA and
> order one. Is there a better water pump then the original
> out there? I have the I6 w/o AC and a serpentine.
>
> I also checked my fan clutch by shutting off the engine
> and watching to see if the fan would still spin but it
> went off right away.
>
> The thermostat housing looks tired but it is still working
> okay with a little coolant color leaking and boiling
> out of the bottom, above the pump.
>
> The radiator is shot. It's the original aluminum with
> the plastic tanks. The fins are rotting off holds water
> but is leaking slowly when the seams get hot and cold.
>
> What else should I be looking for in replacing the coolant
> system. I tested the guage by shorting out the wire off
> the temp sensor and that pegged the temp meter. The
> expansion tank looks okay IMO. I will also buy a new
> radiator cap.
>
> Is the original thermostat okay to run or should I use
> a cooler one? What is the temp where the computer (if any)
> would sense that the engine is running at normal temp
> and using the proper mix and feedback. I am guessing
> anything above 160?
>
> I think this is considered a closed system because I have
> an expansion tank?
>
> It doesn't look like a hard job and I might have to get
> some new radiator hardware bolts and screws to install
> the new one. There are extra in and outs which are
> probably for AT or oil cooling but it should be seperate
> from the main core. I will leave them open and they
> should be okay.
>
> --
> <html><form><input type crash></form></html>
> nospam@zero.com Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail
05-18-2004 | 11:56 PM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Replacing 94 YJ Cooling System 4.0L
Good move, Chrysler's plastic tank radiators are crap. Mine went south at
60k.
If you plan on keeping this vvhicle a while I'd replaces all the hoses with
factory fresh or the equivalent. The factory clamps are superb, but a PITA
to remove without a proper tool. I used a big pair of channel locks to get
the main ones off, but it was still a curse-fest. Keep the stock rated
thermostat or the thing will never warm up in winter, should be 195 degrees.
They made a bunch of them in '94 with the wrong ones and the dealers used to
swap them out per a service bulletin for free. Doubt they will do that for
you now, but who knows.
At that mileage swapping out the water pump is probably a good idea, I'd
also replace the serpentine belt as long as you're taking it off.
"Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message
news:40aac4dd_2@nntp2.nac.net...
> Just ordered a 3 core all metal copper rad, all new hoses,
> clamps, thermostat w/ gasket. I also want to replace the
> water pump and tube that goes to the heater core. All the
> hoses and clamps are OEM. I currently have original hoses
> and clamps w/ 193K miles so I'm happy with them since they
> don't cut the hose or put too much pressure on the core
> and water tubes. I was going to go with a new water pump
> from the dealer but I have heard that re-man water pumps
> are better than new. So I am going to my local NAPA and
> order one. Is there a better water pump then the original
> out there? I have the I6 w/o AC and a serpentine.
>
> I also checked my fan clutch by shutting off the engine
> and watching to see if the fan would still spin but it
> went off right away.
>
> The thermostat housing looks tired but it is still working
> okay with a little coolant color leaking and boiling
> out of the bottom, above the pump.
>
> The radiator is shot. It's the original aluminum with
> the plastic tanks. The fins are rotting off holds water
> but is leaking slowly when the seams get hot and cold.
>
> What else should I be looking for in replacing the coolant
> system. I tested the guage by shorting out the wire off
> the temp sensor and that pegged the temp meter. The
> expansion tank looks okay IMO. I will also buy a new
> radiator cap.
>
> Is the original thermostat okay to run or should I use
> a cooler one? What is the temp where the computer (if any)
> would sense that the engine is running at normal temp
> and using the proper mix and feedback. I am guessing
> anything above 160?
>
> I think this is considered a closed system because I have
> an expansion tank?
>
> It doesn't look like a hard job and I might have to get
> some new radiator hardware bolts and screws to install
> the new one. There are extra in and outs which are
> probably for AT or oil cooling but it should be seperate
> from the main core. I will leave them open and they
> should be okay.
>
> --
> <html><form><input type crash></form></html>
> nospam@zero.com Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail
60k.
If you plan on keeping this vvhicle a while I'd replaces all the hoses with
factory fresh or the equivalent. The factory clamps are superb, but a PITA
to remove without a proper tool. I used a big pair of channel locks to get
the main ones off, but it was still a curse-fest. Keep the stock rated
thermostat or the thing will never warm up in winter, should be 195 degrees.
They made a bunch of them in '94 with the wrong ones and the dealers used to
swap them out per a service bulletin for free. Doubt they will do that for
you now, but who knows.
At that mileage swapping out the water pump is probably a good idea, I'd
also replace the serpentine belt as long as you're taking it off.
"Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message
news:40aac4dd_2@nntp2.nac.net...
> Just ordered a 3 core all metal copper rad, all new hoses,
> clamps, thermostat w/ gasket. I also want to replace the
> water pump and tube that goes to the heater core. All the
> hoses and clamps are OEM. I currently have original hoses
> and clamps w/ 193K miles so I'm happy with them since they
> don't cut the hose or put too much pressure on the core
> and water tubes. I was going to go with a new water pump
> from the dealer but I have heard that re-man water pumps
> are better than new. So I am going to my local NAPA and
> order one. Is there a better water pump then the original
> out there? I have the I6 w/o AC and a serpentine.
>
> I also checked my fan clutch by shutting off the engine
> and watching to see if the fan would still spin but it
> went off right away.
>
> The thermostat housing looks tired but it is still working
> okay with a little coolant color leaking and boiling
> out of the bottom, above the pump.
>
> The radiator is shot. It's the original aluminum with
> the plastic tanks. The fins are rotting off holds water
> but is leaking slowly when the seams get hot and cold.
>
> What else should I be looking for in replacing the coolant
> system. I tested the guage by shorting out the wire off
> the temp sensor and that pegged the temp meter. The
> expansion tank looks okay IMO. I will also buy a new
> radiator cap.
>
> Is the original thermostat okay to run or should I use
> a cooler one? What is the temp where the computer (if any)
> would sense that the engine is running at normal temp
> and using the proper mix and feedback. I am guessing
> anything above 160?
>
> I think this is considered a closed system because I have
> an expansion tank?
>
> It doesn't look like a hard job and I might have to get
> some new radiator hardware bolts and screws to install
> the new one. There are extra in and outs which are
> probably for AT or oil cooling but it should be seperate
> from the main core. I will leave them open and they
> should be okay.
>
> --
> <html><form><input type crash></form></html>
> nospam@zero.com Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail
05-19-2004 | 08:29 AM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Replacing 94 YJ Cooling System 4.0L
In article <c8eid901l0d@enews4.newsguy.com>,
Jerry McG <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:
>Good move, Chrysler's plastic tank radiators are crap. Mine went south at
>60k.
>If you plan on keeping this vvhicle a while I'd replaces all the hoses with
>factory fresh or the equivalent. The factory clamps are superb, but a PITA
>to remove without a proper tool. I used a big pair of channel locks to get
>the main ones off, but it was still a curse-fest. Keep the stock rated
>thermostat or the thing will never warm up in winter, should be 195 degrees.
>They made a bunch of them in '94 with the wrong ones and the dealers used to
>swap them out per a service bulletin for free. Doubt they will do that for
>you now, but who knows.
>At that mileage swapping out the water pump is probably a good idea, I'd
>also replace the serpentine belt as long as you're taking it off.
First thing I will do is flush the system.
I am replacing the serpentine belt. When I am ready, I will blast it all
down with PB blaster and let it sit before I loosen up anything.
I'll cut off the old hoses and I also use channel-locks to take the clamps
off.
Too bad about the thermostat. :) I will check to see what kind was
being used.
>"Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message
>news:40aac4dd_2@nntp2.nac.net...
>> Just ordered a 3 core all metal copper rad, all new hoses,
>> clamps, thermostat w/ gasket. I also want to replace the
>> water pump and tube that goes to the heater core. All the
>> hoses and clamps are OEM. I currently have original hoses
>> and clamps w/ 193K miles so I'm happy with them since they
>> don't cut the hose or put too much pressure on the core
>> and water tubes. I was going to go with a new water pump
>> from the dealer but I have heard that re-man water pumps
>> are better than new. So I am going to my local NAPA and
>> order one. Is there a better water pump then the original
>> out there? I have the I6 w/o AC and a serpentine.
>>
>> I also checked my fan clutch by shutting off the engine
>> and watching to see if the fan would still spin but it
>> went off right away.
>>
>> The thermostat housing looks tired but it is still working
>> okay with a little coolant color leaking and boiling
>> out of the bottom, above the pump.
>>
>> The radiator is shot. It's the original aluminum with
>> the plastic tanks. The fins are rotting off holds water
>> but is leaking slowly when the seams get hot and cold.
>>
>> What else should I be looking for in replacing the coolant
>> system. I tested the guage by shorting out the wire off
>> the temp sensor and that pegged the temp meter. The
>> expansion tank looks okay IMO. I will also buy a new
>> radiator cap.
>>
>> Is the original thermostat okay to run or should I use
>> a cooler one? What is the temp where the computer (if any)
>> would sense that the engine is running at normal temp
>> and using the proper mix and feedback. I am guessing
>> anything above 160?
>>
>> I think this is considered a closed system because I have
>> an expansion tank?
>>
>> It doesn't look like a hard job and I might have to get
>> some new radiator hardware bolts and screws to install
>> the new one. There are extra in and outs which are
>> probably for AT or oil cooling but it should be seperate
>> from the main core. I will leave them open and they
>> should be okay.
>>
>> --
>> <html><form><input type crash></form></html>
>> nospam@zero.com Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail
>
>
--
<html><form><input type crash></form></html>
nospam@zero.com Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail
Jerry McG <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:
>Good move, Chrysler's plastic tank radiators are crap. Mine went south at
>60k.
>If you plan on keeping this vvhicle a while I'd replaces all the hoses with
>factory fresh or the equivalent. The factory clamps are superb, but a PITA
>to remove without a proper tool. I used a big pair of channel locks to get
>the main ones off, but it was still a curse-fest. Keep the stock rated
>thermostat or the thing will never warm up in winter, should be 195 degrees.
>They made a bunch of them in '94 with the wrong ones and the dealers used to
>swap them out per a service bulletin for free. Doubt they will do that for
>you now, but who knows.
>At that mileage swapping out the water pump is probably a good idea, I'd
>also replace the serpentine belt as long as you're taking it off.
First thing I will do is flush the system.
I am replacing the serpentine belt. When I am ready, I will blast it all
down with PB blaster and let it sit before I loosen up anything.
I'll cut off the old hoses and I also use channel-locks to take the clamps
off.
Too bad about the thermostat. :) I will check to see what kind was
being used.
>"Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message
>news:40aac4dd_2@nntp2.nac.net...
>> Just ordered a 3 core all metal copper rad, all new hoses,
>> clamps, thermostat w/ gasket. I also want to replace the
>> water pump and tube that goes to the heater core. All the
>> hoses and clamps are OEM. I currently have original hoses
>> and clamps w/ 193K miles so I'm happy with them since they
>> don't cut the hose or put too much pressure on the core
>> and water tubes. I was going to go with a new water pump
>> from the dealer but I have heard that re-man water pumps
>> are better than new. So I am going to my local NAPA and
>> order one. Is there a better water pump then the original
>> out there? I have the I6 w/o AC and a serpentine.
>>
>> I also checked my fan clutch by shutting off the engine
>> and watching to see if the fan would still spin but it
>> went off right away.
>>
>> The thermostat housing looks tired but it is still working
>> okay with a little coolant color leaking and boiling
>> out of the bottom, above the pump.
>>
>> The radiator is shot. It's the original aluminum with
>> the plastic tanks. The fins are rotting off holds water
>> but is leaking slowly when the seams get hot and cold.
>>
>> What else should I be looking for in replacing the coolant
>> system. I tested the guage by shorting out the wire off
>> the temp sensor and that pegged the temp meter. The
>> expansion tank looks okay IMO. I will also buy a new
>> radiator cap.
>>
>> Is the original thermostat okay to run or should I use
>> a cooler one? What is the temp where the computer (if any)
>> would sense that the engine is running at normal temp
>> and using the proper mix and feedback. I am guessing
>> anything above 160?
>>
>> I think this is considered a closed system because I have
>> an expansion tank?
>>
>> It doesn't look like a hard job and I might have to get
>> some new radiator hardware bolts and screws to install
>> the new one. There are extra in and outs which are
>> probably for AT or oil cooling but it should be seperate
>> from the main core. I will leave them open and they
>> should be okay.
>>
>> --
>> <html><form><input type crash></form></html>
>> nospam@zero.com Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail
>
>
--
<html><form><input type crash></form></html>
nospam@zero.com Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail
05-19-2004 | 08:29 AM
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Replacing 94 YJ Cooling System 4.0L
In article <c8eid901l0d@enews4.newsguy.com>,
Jerry McG <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:
>Good move, Chrysler's plastic tank radiators are crap. Mine went south at
>60k.
>If you plan on keeping this vvhicle a while I'd replaces all the hoses with
>factory fresh or the equivalent. The factory clamps are superb, but a PITA
>to remove without a proper tool. I used a big pair of channel locks to get
>the main ones off, but it was still a curse-fest. Keep the stock rated
>thermostat or the thing will never warm up in winter, should be 195 degrees.
>They made a bunch of them in '94 with the wrong ones and the dealers used to
>swap them out per a service bulletin for free. Doubt they will do that for
>you now, but who knows.
>At that mileage swapping out the water pump is probably a good idea, I'd
>also replace the serpentine belt as long as you're taking it off.
First thing I will do is flush the system.
I am replacing the serpentine belt. When I am ready, I will blast it all
down with PB blaster and let it sit before I loosen up anything.
I'll cut off the old hoses and I also use channel-locks to take the clamps
off.
Too bad about the thermostat. :) I will check to see what kind was
being used.
>"Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message
>news:40aac4dd_2@nntp2.nac.net...
>> Just ordered a 3 core all metal copper rad, all new hoses,
>> clamps, thermostat w/ gasket. I also want to replace the
>> water pump and tube that goes to the heater core. All the
>> hoses and clamps are OEM. I currently have original hoses
>> and clamps w/ 193K miles so I'm happy with them since they
>> don't cut the hose or put too much pressure on the core
>> and water tubes. I was going to go with a new water pump
>> from the dealer but I have heard that re-man water pumps
>> are better than new. So I am going to my local NAPA and
>> order one. Is there a better water pump then the original
>> out there? I have the I6 w/o AC and a serpentine.
>>
>> I also checked my fan clutch by shutting off the engine
>> and watching to see if the fan would still spin but it
>> went off right away.
>>
>> The thermostat housing looks tired but it is still working
>> okay with a little coolant color leaking and boiling
>> out of the bottom, above the pump.
>>
>> The radiator is shot. It's the original aluminum with
>> the plastic tanks. The fins are rotting off holds water
>> but is leaking slowly when the seams get hot and cold.
>>
>> What else should I be looking for in replacing the coolant
>> system. I tested the guage by shorting out the wire off
>> the temp sensor and that pegged the temp meter. The
>> expansion tank looks okay IMO. I will also buy a new
>> radiator cap.
>>
>> Is the original thermostat okay to run or should I use
>> a cooler one? What is the temp where the computer (if any)
>> would sense that the engine is running at normal temp
>> and using the proper mix and feedback. I am guessing
>> anything above 160?
>>
>> I think this is considered a closed system because I have
>> an expansion tank?
>>
>> It doesn't look like a hard job and I might have to get
>> some new radiator hardware bolts and screws to install
>> the new one. There are extra in and outs which are
>> probably for AT or oil cooling but it should be seperate
>> from the main core. I will leave them open and they
>> should be okay.
>>
>> --
>> <html><form><input type crash></form></html>
>> nospam@zero.com Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail
>
>
--
<html><form><input type crash></form></html>
nospam@zero.com Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail
Jerry McG <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:
>Good move, Chrysler's plastic tank radiators are crap. Mine went south at
>60k.
>If you plan on keeping this vvhicle a while I'd replaces all the hoses with
>factory fresh or the equivalent. The factory clamps are superb, but a PITA
>to remove without a proper tool. I used a big pair of channel locks to get
>the main ones off, but it was still a curse-fest. Keep the stock rated
>thermostat or the thing will never warm up in winter, should be 195 degrees.
>They made a bunch of them in '94 with the wrong ones and the dealers used to
>swap them out per a service bulletin for free. Doubt they will do that for
>you now, but who knows.
>At that mileage swapping out the water pump is probably a good idea, I'd
>also replace the serpentine belt as long as you're taking it off.
First thing I will do is flush the system.
I am replacing the serpentine belt. When I am ready, I will blast it all
down with PB blaster and let it sit before I loosen up anything.
I'll cut off the old hoses and I also use channel-locks to take the clamps
off.
Too bad about the thermostat. :) I will check to see what kind was
being used.
>"Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message
>news:40aac4dd_2@nntp2.nac.net...
>> Just ordered a 3 core all metal copper rad, all new hoses,
>> clamps, thermostat w/ gasket. I also want to replace the
>> water pump and tube that goes to the heater core. All the
>> hoses and clamps are OEM. I currently have original hoses
>> and clamps w/ 193K miles so I'm happy with them since they
>> don't cut the hose or put too much pressure on the core
>> and water tubes. I was going to go with a new water pump
>> from the dealer but I have heard that re-man water pumps
>> are better than new. So I am going to my local NAPA and
>> order one. Is there a better water pump then the original
>> out there? I have the I6 w/o AC and a serpentine.
>>
>> I also checked my fan clutch by shutting off the engine
>> and watching to see if the fan would still spin but it
>> went off right away.
>>
>> The thermostat housing looks tired but it is still working
>> okay with a little coolant color leaking and boiling
>> out of the bottom, above the pump.
>>
>> The radiator is shot. It's the original aluminum with
>> the plastic tanks. The fins are rotting off holds water
>> but is leaking slowly when the seams get hot and cold.
>>
>> What else should I be looking for in replacing the coolant
>> system. I tested the guage by shorting out the wire off
>> the temp sensor and that pegged the temp meter. The
>> expansion tank looks okay IMO. I will also buy a new
>> radiator cap.
>>
>> Is the original thermostat okay to run or should I use
>> a cooler one? What is the temp where the computer (if any)
>> would sense that the engine is running at normal temp
>> and using the proper mix and feedback. I am guessing
>> anything above 160?
>>
>> I think this is considered a closed system because I have
>> an expansion tank?
>>
>> It doesn't look like a hard job and I might have to get
>> some new radiator hardware bolts and screws to install
>> the new one. There are extra in and outs which are
>> probably for AT or oil cooling but it should be seperate
>> from the main core. I will leave them open and they
>> should be okay.
>>
>> --
>> <html><form><input type crash></form></html>
>> nospam@zero.com Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail
>
>
--
<html><form><input type crash></form></html>
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05-19-2004 | 08:29 AM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Replacing 94 YJ Cooling System 4.0L
In article <c8eid901l0d@enews4.newsguy.com>,
Jerry McG <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:
>Good move, Chrysler's plastic tank radiators are crap. Mine went south at
>60k.
>If you plan on keeping this vvhicle a while I'd replaces all the hoses with
>factory fresh or the equivalent. The factory clamps are superb, but a PITA
>to remove without a proper tool. I used a big pair of channel locks to get
>the main ones off, but it was still a curse-fest. Keep the stock rated
>thermostat or the thing will never warm up in winter, should be 195 degrees.
>They made a bunch of them in '94 with the wrong ones and the dealers used to
>swap them out per a service bulletin for free. Doubt they will do that for
>you now, but who knows.
>At that mileage swapping out the water pump is probably a good idea, I'd
>also replace the serpentine belt as long as you're taking it off.
First thing I will do is flush the system.
I am replacing the serpentine belt. When I am ready, I will blast it all
down with PB blaster and let it sit before I loosen up anything.
I'll cut off the old hoses and I also use channel-locks to take the clamps
off.
Too bad about the thermostat. :) I will check to see what kind was
being used.
>"Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message
>news:40aac4dd_2@nntp2.nac.net...
>> Just ordered a 3 core all metal copper rad, all new hoses,
>> clamps, thermostat w/ gasket. I also want to replace the
>> water pump and tube that goes to the heater core. All the
>> hoses and clamps are OEM. I currently have original hoses
>> and clamps w/ 193K miles so I'm happy with them since they
>> don't cut the hose or put too much pressure on the core
>> and water tubes. I was going to go with a new water pump
>> from the dealer but I have heard that re-man water pumps
>> are better than new. So I am going to my local NAPA and
>> order one. Is there a better water pump then the original
>> out there? I have the I6 w/o AC and a serpentine.
>>
>> I also checked my fan clutch by shutting off the engine
>> and watching to see if the fan would still spin but it
>> went off right away.
>>
>> The thermostat housing looks tired but it is still working
>> okay with a little coolant color leaking and boiling
>> out of the bottom, above the pump.
>>
>> The radiator is shot. It's the original aluminum with
>> the plastic tanks. The fins are rotting off holds water
>> but is leaking slowly when the seams get hot and cold.
>>
>> What else should I be looking for in replacing the coolant
>> system. I tested the guage by shorting out the wire off
>> the temp sensor and that pegged the temp meter. The
>> expansion tank looks okay IMO. I will also buy a new
>> radiator cap.
>>
>> Is the original thermostat okay to run or should I use
>> a cooler one? What is the temp where the computer (if any)
>> would sense that the engine is running at normal temp
>> and using the proper mix and feedback. I am guessing
>> anything above 160?
>>
>> I think this is considered a closed system because I have
>> an expansion tank?
>>
>> It doesn't look like a hard job and I might have to get
>> some new radiator hardware bolts and screws to install
>> the new one. There are extra in and outs which are
>> probably for AT or oil cooling but it should be seperate
>> from the main core. I will leave them open and they
>> should be okay.
>>
>> --
>> <html><form><input type crash></form></html>
>> nospam@zero.com Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail
>
>
--
<html><form><input type crash></form></html>
nospam@zero.com Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail
Jerry McG <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:
>Good move, Chrysler's plastic tank radiators are crap. Mine went south at
>60k.
>If you plan on keeping this vvhicle a while I'd replaces all the hoses with
>factory fresh or the equivalent. The factory clamps are superb, but a PITA
>to remove without a proper tool. I used a big pair of channel locks to get
>the main ones off, but it was still a curse-fest. Keep the stock rated
>thermostat or the thing will never warm up in winter, should be 195 degrees.
>They made a bunch of them in '94 with the wrong ones and the dealers used to
>swap them out per a service bulletin for free. Doubt they will do that for
>you now, but who knows.
>At that mileage swapping out the water pump is probably a good idea, I'd
>also replace the serpentine belt as long as you're taking it off.
First thing I will do is flush the system.
I am replacing the serpentine belt. When I am ready, I will blast it all
down with PB blaster and let it sit before I loosen up anything.
I'll cut off the old hoses and I also use channel-locks to take the clamps
off.
Too bad about the thermostat. :) I will check to see what kind was
being used.
>"Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message
>news:40aac4dd_2@nntp2.nac.net...
>> Just ordered a 3 core all metal copper rad, all new hoses,
>> clamps, thermostat w/ gasket. I also want to replace the
>> water pump and tube that goes to the heater core. All the
>> hoses and clamps are OEM. I currently have original hoses
>> and clamps w/ 193K miles so I'm happy with them since they
>> don't cut the hose or put too much pressure on the core
>> and water tubes. I was going to go with a new water pump
>> from the dealer but I have heard that re-man water pumps
>> are better than new. So I am going to my local NAPA and
>> order one. Is there a better water pump then the original
>> out there? I have the I6 w/o AC and a serpentine.
>>
>> I also checked my fan clutch by shutting off the engine
>> and watching to see if the fan would still spin but it
>> went off right away.
>>
>> The thermostat housing looks tired but it is still working
>> okay with a little coolant color leaking and boiling
>> out of the bottom, above the pump.
>>
>> The radiator is shot. It's the original aluminum with
>> the plastic tanks. The fins are rotting off holds water
>> but is leaking slowly when the seams get hot and cold.
>>
>> What else should I be looking for in replacing the coolant
>> system. I tested the guage by shorting out the wire off
>> the temp sensor and that pegged the temp meter. The
>> expansion tank looks okay IMO. I will also buy a new
>> radiator cap.
>>
>> Is the original thermostat okay to run or should I use
>> a cooler one? What is the temp where the computer (if any)
>> would sense that the engine is running at normal temp
>> and using the proper mix and feedback. I am guessing
>> anything above 160?
>>
>> I think this is considered a closed system because I have
>> an expansion tank?
>>
>> It doesn't look like a hard job and I might have to get
>> some new radiator hardware bolts and screws to install
>> the new one. There are extra in and outs which are
>> probably for AT or oil cooling but it should be seperate
>> from the main core. I will leave them open and they
>> should be okay.
>>
>> --
>> <html><form><input type crash></form></html>
>> nospam@zero.com Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail
>
>
--
<html><form><input type crash></form></html>
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05-19-2004 | 08:29 AM
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Replacing 94 YJ Cooling System 4.0L
In article <c8eid901l0d@enews4.newsguy.com>,
Jerry McG <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:
>Good move, Chrysler's plastic tank radiators are crap. Mine went south at
>60k.
>If you plan on keeping this vvhicle a while I'd replaces all the hoses with
>factory fresh or the equivalent. The factory clamps are superb, but a PITA
>to remove without a proper tool. I used a big pair of channel locks to get
>the main ones off, but it was still a curse-fest. Keep the stock rated
>thermostat or the thing will never warm up in winter, should be 195 degrees.
>They made a bunch of them in '94 with the wrong ones and the dealers used to
>swap them out per a service bulletin for free. Doubt they will do that for
>you now, but who knows.
>At that mileage swapping out the water pump is probably a good idea, I'd
>also replace the serpentine belt as long as you're taking it off.
First thing I will do is flush the system.
I am replacing the serpentine belt. When I am ready, I will blast it all
down with PB blaster and let it sit before I loosen up anything.
I'll cut off the old hoses and I also use channel-locks to take the clamps
off.
Too bad about the thermostat. :) I will check to see what kind was
being used.
>"Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message
>news:40aac4dd_2@nntp2.nac.net...
>> Just ordered a 3 core all metal copper rad, all new hoses,
>> clamps, thermostat w/ gasket. I also want to replace the
>> water pump and tube that goes to the heater core. All the
>> hoses and clamps are OEM. I currently have original hoses
>> and clamps w/ 193K miles so I'm happy with them since they
>> don't cut the hose or put too much pressure on the core
>> and water tubes. I was going to go with a new water pump
>> from the dealer but I have heard that re-man water pumps
>> are better than new. So I am going to my local NAPA and
>> order one. Is there a better water pump then the original
>> out there? I have the I6 w/o AC and a serpentine.
>>
>> I also checked my fan clutch by shutting off the engine
>> and watching to see if the fan would still spin but it
>> went off right away.
>>
>> The thermostat housing looks tired but it is still working
>> okay with a little coolant color leaking and boiling
>> out of the bottom, above the pump.
>>
>> The radiator is shot. It's the original aluminum with
>> the plastic tanks. The fins are rotting off holds water
>> but is leaking slowly when the seams get hot and cold.
>>
>> What else should I be looking for in replacing the coolant
>> system. I tested the guage by shorting out the wire off
>> the temp sensor and that pegged the temp meter. The
>> expansion tank looks okay IMO. I will also buy a new
>> radiator cap.
>>
>> Is the original thermostat okay to run or should I use
>> a cooler one? What is the temp where the computer (if any)
>> would sense that the engine is running at normal temp
>> and using the proper mix and feedback. I am guessing
>> anything above 160?
>>
>> I think this is considered a closed system because I have
>> an expansion tank?
>>
>> It doesn't look like a hard job and I might have to get
>> some new radiator hardware bolts and screws to install
>> the new one. There are extra in and outs which are
>> probably for AT or oil cooling but it should be seperate
>> from the main core. I will leave them open and they
>> should be okay.
>>
>> --
>> <html><form><input type crash></form></html>
>> nospam@zero.com Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail
>
>
--
<html><form><input type crash></form></html>
nospam@zero.com Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail
Jerry McG <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:
>Good move, Chrysler's plastic tank radiators are crap. Mine went south at
>60k.
>If you plan on keeping this vvhicle a while I'd replaces all the hoses with
>factory fresh or the equivalent. The factory clamps are superb, but a PITA
>to remove without a proper tool. I used a big pair of channel locks to get
>the main ones off, but it was still a curse-fest. Keep the stock rated
>thermostat or the thing will never warm up in winter, should be 195 degrees.
>They made a bunch of them in '94 with the wrong ones and the dealers used to
>swap them out per a service bulletin for free. Doubt they will do that for
>you now, but who knows.
>At that mileage swapping out the water pump is probably a good idea, I'd
>also replace the serpentine belt as long as you're taking it off.
First thing I will do is flush the system.
I am replacing the serpentine belt. When I am ready, I will blast it all
down with PB blaster and let it sit before I loosen up anything.
I'll cut off the old hoses and I also use channel-locks to take the clamps
off.
Too bad about the thermostat. :) I will check to see what kind was
being used.
>"Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message
>news:40aac4dd_2@nntp2.nac.net...
>> Just ordered a 3 core all metal copper rad, all new hoses,
>> clamps, thermostat w/ gasket. I also want to replace the
>> water pump and tube that goes to the heater core. All the
>> hoses and clamps are OEM. I currently have original hoses
>> and clamps w/ 193K miles so I'm happy with them since they
>> don't cut the hose or put too much pressure on the core
>> and water tubes. I was going to go with a new water pump
>> from the dealer but I have heard that re-man water pumps
>> are better than new. So I am going to my local NAPA and
>> order one. Is there a better water pump then the original
>> out there? I have the I6 w/o AC and a serpentine.
>>
>> I also checked my fan clutch by shutting off the engine
>> and watching to see if the fan would still spin but it
>> went off right away.
>>
>> The thermostat housing looks tired but it is still working
>> okay with a little coolant color leaking and boiling
>> out of the bottom, above the pump.
>>
>> The radiator is shot. It's the original aluminum with
>> the plastic tanks. The fins are rotting off holds water
>> but is leaking slowly when the seams get hot and cold.
>>
>> What else should I be looking for in replacing the coolant
>> system. I tested the guage by shorting out the wire off
>> the temp sensor and that pegged the temp meter. The
>> expansion tank looks okay IMO. I will also buy a new
>> radiator cap.
>>
>> Is the original thermostat okay to run or should I use
>> a cooler one? What is the temp where the computer (if any)
>> would sense that the engine is running at normal temp
>> and using the proper mix and feedback. I am guessing
>> anything above 160?
>>
>> I think this is considered a closed system because I have
>> an expansion tank?
>>
>> It doesn't look like a hard job and I might have to get
>> some new radiator hardware bolts and screws to install
>> the new one. There are extra in and outs which are
>> probably for AT or oil cooling but it should be seperate
>> from the main core. I will leave them open and they
>> should be okay.
>>
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