In message <%1L4d.8209$gG4.4712@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink. net>, "Retiredff"
wrote:

>In Aug. 2001, I put a 258 reman in my '89 Wrangler. I installed a new fuel
>pump (direct-replacement mechanical) at that time.
>
>About 15-18 or so months later, it failed. It appears to have failed, again,
>today. My wife had it at work, 30 miles from home, and she drove it about
>50' before it quit.
>
>A couple of the guys she works with messed with it, and they said there
>wasn't any gas being pumped into the carb when they tried to start it. When
>they poured a little gas into the carb, it would run a couple of seconds,
>then quit. They did it several times, same result. I know there is gas in
>it. It only has about 70 miles since I last refilled it.
>
>My questions- just bad luck on my part, or could there be a problem that is
>causing it to fail?
>
>Second question- how difficult is it to switch over to an electric pump, and
>what is involved?
>
>Thanks,
>Larry
>

Don't forget to check the fuel inlet valve in the carb ( needle & seat). Fairly
common for those to stick and real easy to check. The fuel line screws into it
on the front of the carb. Take the line loose at the carb, put a hose on the end
of the line, point the hose into a container that will safely hold fuel and
crank it over. If fuel pumped out of the hose, the needle & seat is the likely
cause.

Chances are you'll jar it loose when you take the line loose, so it may start
working again, but I'd put a new one in anyway. Used to be able to get them
separately, but you might have to buy a carb kit.

Don't know if anyone here is familiar with Tomco carb kits, but they use a ball
& disk setup instead of a needle & seat. We started using those years ago when
a change to our fuel formulation caused an epidemic of 'no gas in the carb'
problems. The tip of the needle was swelling, and sticking in the seat. I've
never seen one of the Tomco ones stick closed.

 

In message <%1L4d.8209$gG4.4712@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink. net>, "Retiredff"
wrote:

>In Aug. 2001, I put a 258 reman in my '89 Wrangler. I installed a new fuel
>pump (direct-replacement mechanical) at that time.
>
>About 15-18 or so months later, it failed. It appears to have failed, again,
>today. My wife had it at work, 30 miles from home, and she drove it about
>50' before it quit.
>
>A couple of the guys she works with messed with it, and they said there
>wasn't any gas being pumped into the carb when they tried to start it. When
>they poured a little gas into the carb, it would run a couple of seconds,
>then quit. They did it several times, same result. I know there is gas in
>it. It only has about 70 miles since I last refilled it.
>
>My questions- just bad luck on my part, or could there be a problem that is
>causing it to fail?
>
>Second question- how difficult is it to switch over to an electric pump, and
>what is involved?
>
>Thanks,
>Larry
>

Don't forget to check the fuel inlet valve in the carb ( needle & seat). Fairly
common for those to stick and real easy to check. The fuel line screws into it
on the front of the carb. Take the line loose at the carb, put a hose on the end
of the line, point the hose into a container that will safely hold fuel and
crank it over. If fuel pumped out of the hose, the needle & seat is the likely
cause.

Chances are you'll jar it loose when you take the line loose, so it may start
working again, but I'd put a new one in anyway. Used to be able to get them
separately, but you might have to buy a carb kit.

Don't know if anyone here is familiar with Tomco carb kits, but they use a ball
& disk setup instead of a needle & seat. We started using those years ago when
a change to our fuel formulation caused an epidemic of 'no gas in the carb'
problems. The tip of the needle was swelling, and sticking in the seat. I've
never seen one of the Tomco ones stick closed.

 

In message <%1L4d.8209$gG4.4712@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink. net>, "Retiredff"
wrote:

>In Aug. 2001, I put a 258 reman in my '89 Wrangler. I installed a new fuel
>pump (direct-replacement mechanical) at that time.
>
>About 15-18 or so months later, it failed. It appears to have failed, again,
>today. My wife had it at work, 30 miles from home, and she drove it about
>50' before it quit.
>
>A couple of the guys she works with messed with it, and they said there
>wasn't any gas being pumped into the carb when they tried to start it. When
>they poured a little gas into the carb, it would run a couple of seconds,
>then quit. They did it several times, same result. I know there is gas in
>it. It only has about 70 miles since I last refilled it.
>
>My questions- just bad luck on my part, or could there be a problem that is
>causing it to fail?
>
>Second question- how difficult is it to switch over to an electric pump, and
>what is involved?
>
>Thanks,
>Larry
>

Don't forget to check the fuel inlet valve in the carb ( needle & seat). Fairly
common for those to stick and real easy to check. The fuel line screws into it
on the front of the carb. Take the line loose at the carb, put a hose on the end
of the line, point the hose into a container that will safely hold fuel and
crank it over. If fuel pumped out of the hose, the needle & seat is the likely
cause.

Chances are you'll jar it loose when you take the line loose, so it may start
working again, but I'd put a new one in anyway. Used to be able to get them
separately, but you might have to buy a carb kit.

Don't know if anyone here is familiar with Tomco carb kits, but they use a ball
& disk setup instead of a needle & seat. We started using those years ago when
a change to our fuel formulation caused an epidemic of 'no gas in the carb'
problems. The tip of the needle was swelling, and sticking in the seat. I've
never seen one of the Tomco ones stick closed.

 

L.W. (ßill) ------ III wrote:
> Along with a new fuel pump, buy a new filter located inside the
> frame rail, on the drivers side above the front half of the spring.
> There's a shield you have to remove to get to it.

I thought that filter was only on the fuel injected motors, Bill. Can anyone
confirm this? If it is there, then it has never been replaced (16 years and
309,000 miles), and I can see that it might present a problem.

Thanks

 

L.W. (ßill) ------ III wrote:
> Along with a new fuel pump, buy a new filter located inside the
> frame rail, on the drivers side above the front half of the spring.
> There's a shield you have to remove to get to it.

I thought that filter was only on the fuel injected motors, Bill. Can anyone
confirm this? If it is there, then it has never been replaced (16 years and
309,000 miles), and I can see that it might present a problem.

Thanks

 

L.W. (ßill) ------ III wrote:
> Along with a new fuel pump, buy a new filter located inside the
> frame rail, on the drivers side above the front half of the spring.
> There's a shield you have to remove to get to it.

I thought that filter was only on the fuel injected motors, Bill. Can anyone
confirm this? If it is there, then it has never been replaced (16 years and
309,000 miles), and I can see that it might present a problem.

Thanks

 

bllsht wrote:
> In message <%1L4d.8209$gG4.4712@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink. net>,
> "Retiredff" wrote:
>> A couple of the guys she works with messed with it, and they said
>> there wasn't any gas being pumped into the carb when they tried to
>> start it. When they poured a little gas into the carb, it would run
>> a couple of seconds, then quit. They did it several times, same
>> result. >>
>> My questions- just bad luck on my part, or could there be a problem
>> that is causing it to fail?
>
> Don't forget to check the fuel inlet valve in the carb ( needle &
> seat). Fairly common for those to stick and real easy to check. The
> fuel line screws into it on the front of the carb. Take the line
> loose at the carb, put a hose on the end of the line, point the hose
> into a container that will safely hold fuel and crank it over. If
> fuel pumped out of the hose, the needle & seat is the likely cause.
>
> Chances are you'll jar it loose when you take the line loose, so it
> may start working again, but I'd put a new one in anyway. Used to be
> able to get them separately, but you might have to buy a carb kit.
>
> Don't know if anyone here is familiar with Tomco carb kits, but they
> use a ball & disk setup instead of a needle & seat. We started using
> those years ago when a change to our fuel formulation caused an
> epidemic of 'no gas in the carb' problems. The tip of the needle was
> swelling, and sticking in the seat. I've never seen one of the Tomco
> ones stick closed.

When I get up there Saturday, I'll check it before replacing the pump. I'll
also print this out so I can look into that mod, once I get it home.

Larry

 

bllsht wrote:
> In message <%1L4d.8209$gG4.4712@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink. net>,
> "Retiredff" wrote:
>> A couple of the guys she works with messed with it, and they said
>> there wasn't any gas being pumped into the carb when they tried to
>> start it. When they poured a little gas into the carb, it would run
>> a couple of seconds, then quit. They did it several times, same
>> result. >>
>> My questions- just bad luck on my part, or could there be a problem
>> that is causing it to fail?
>
> Don't forget to check the fuel inlet valve in the carb ( needle &
> seat). Fairly common for those to stick and real easy to check. The
> fuel line screws into it on the front of the carb. Take the line
> loose at the carb, put a hose on the end of the line, point the hose
> into a container that will safely hold fuel and crank it over. If
> fuel pumped out of the hose, the needle & seat is the likely cause.
>
> Chances are you'll jar it loose when you take the line loose, so it
> may start working again, but I'd put a new one in anyway. Used to be
> able to get them separately, but you might have to buy a carb kit.
>
> Don't know if anyone here is familiar with Tomco carb kits, but they
> use a ball & disk setup instead of a needle & seat. We started using
> those years ago when a change to our fuel formulation caused an
> epidemic of 'no gas in the carb' problems. The tip of the needle was
> swelling, and sticking in the seat. I've never seen one of the Tomco
> ones stick closed.

When I get up there Saturday, I'll check it before replacing the pump. I'll
also print this out so I can look into that mod, once I get it home.

Larry

 

bllsht wrote:
> In message <%1L4d.8209$gG4.4712@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink. net>,
> "Retiredff" wrote:
>> A couple of the guys she works with messed with it, and they said
>> there wasn't any gas being pumped into the carb when they tried to
>> start it. When they poured a little gas into the carb, it would run
>> a couple of seconds, then quit. They did it several times, same
>> result. >>
>> My questions- just bad luck on my part, or could there be a problem
>> that is causing it to fail?
>
> Don't forget to check the fuel inlet valve in the carb ( needle &
> seat). Fairly common for those to stick and real easy to check. The
> fuel line screws into it on the front of the carb. Take the line
> loose at the carb, put a hose on the end of the line, point the hose
> into a container that will safely hold fuel and crank it over. If
> fuel pumped out of the hose, the needle & seat is the likely cause.
>
> Chances are you'll jar it loose when you take the line loose, so it
> may start working again, but I'd put a new one in anyway. Used to be
> able to get them separately, but you might have to buy a carb kit.
>
> Don't know if anyone here is familiar with Tomco carb kits, but they
> use a ball & disk setup instead of a needle & seat. We started using
> those years ago when a change to our fuel formulation caused an
> epidemic of 'no gas in the carb' problems. The tip of the needle was
> swelling, and sticking in the seat. I've never seen one of the Tomco
> ones stick closed.

When I get up there Saturday, I'll check it before replacing the pump. I'll
also print this out so I can look into that mod, once I get it home.

Larry

 

ROTFLMAO!

Wow!

The fuel filter on the 258 is supposed to be changed every year or more
often if you drive in mud and dusty off road.

I 'usually' can get a year out of them, but I always carry a spare under
the seat.

The filter has two outlets and sits up by the carb. The center outlet
goes to the carb and the 'top' outlet goes to the return line. The
return line must be at the top or gas will syphon back to the tank when
it sits causing real 'bad' cold start issues.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Retiredff wrote:
>
> L.W. (ßill) ------ III wrote:
> > Along with a new fuel pump, buy a new filter located inside the
> > frame rail, on the drivers side above the front half of the spring.
> > There's a shield you have to remove to get to it.
>
> I thought that filter was only on the fuel injected motors, Bill. Can anyone
> confirm this? If it is there, then it has never been replaced (16 years and
> 309,000 miles), and I can see that it might present a problem.
>
> Thanks