Re: Need help from a Buick Oddfire V6 Guru
04-03-2006 | 09:07 PM
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Re: Need help from a Buick Oddfire V6 Guru
As you know it has sludge you might want to change the oil and filter early
for a few times with something that is very high in detergents.
"billy ray" <billy_ray@fuseSPAM.net> wrote in message news:...
> Perhaps he does not understand how to correct the problem if he is one
> tooth when the distributor was installed.
>
> If it is one tooth off it may still be timeable if the distributor can be
> rotated sufficiently.
>
> Check the timing, with a light, while cranking. If you are one tooth off
> you may have to search to find the mark. I used to rub chalk or paint the
> marks with nail polish for visibility.
>
> I do not know if this V-6 is an interference engine. Do you know Bill?
>
> Note where the rotor points while installed.
> Carefully and slowly remove distributor
> Note where rotor now points.
> Rotate rotor one tooth in the appropriate direction
> Slowly re-insert distributor
> Rotor should point directly to cylinder #1 terminal
> Check timing.
>
> Do you have a timing light? If not you can do it manually by setting the
> timing mark at the appropriate advance and rotating the distributor until
> you get a spark.
>
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4430251A.A84117DF@sympatico.ca...
>> Sorry I don't own one.
>>
>> It is normal for the rotor to be slightly past #1 if the timing is set
>> at 5 or more degrees BTDC. What that means is the rotor will hit the
>> contact before the engine hits TDC so when the engine finally is at Top,
>> the rotor has past the contact post for #1 wire.
>>
>> The fire happens when the metal part of the rotor first hits the post on
>> the cap or just when the points first crack open.
>>
>> You turn the distributor's case to fine tune it in. This can be done
>> with a timing light even if it isn't running. The starter cranking will
>> be enough to make the light flash. A test light on the points for a
>> static test will tell too. Set the distributor nut down at first
>> flicker.
>>
>> You should have a notch on the flywheel that indicates TDC also.
>>
>> I don't understand how your rotor can point to both places. Either it
>> is right on the center of the post for the wire if you have the
>> prestolite distributor or it is inbetween 1 and 6 for the delco remy.
>>
>> You turn the distributor's case to fine tune it in. This can be done
>> with a timing light even if it isn't running. The starter cranking will
>> be enough to make the light flash. A test light on the points will tell
>> too. Set the distributor at first flicker.
>>
>> The one that catches most folks is the two different top dead centers
>> the #1 piston has with one 360 rotor rotation.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Bill Lahr wrote:
>>>
>>> Milke,
>>>
>>> Thanks. It is difficult to tell from a book. I have a Haynes manual, but
>>> the drawing isn't that clear and it doesn't have any details on the
>>> early GM engines, only the similar Dauntless V6. The rotor is wide on
>>> the Oddfire distributor and mine will either center on #1 at TDC on the
>>> compression stroke or point between #1 and #6. If you have one of these
>>> engines (Delco distributor), could you pop the cap and look at where the
>>> centerline of the rotor points at TDC? There is a small notch on the
>>> distributor that represents the #1 position. One would assume it would
>>> point to that mark, not past it.
>>>
>>> Bill
>>>
>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>> > My book shows it to be at the 5:00 position looking at it from the
>>> > front
>>> > of the engine with the firing order 165432 clockwise.
>>> >
>>> > Yours sounds like it is off a gear tooth maybe on the rotor or the
>>> > distributor needs to be turned to clock it. It should be at 1 or just
>>> > slightly after towards the 6. My book also shows two different
>>> > advances. It says 0 for the prestolite distributor and 5 deg for the
>>> > delco remy.
>>> >
>>> > Also make sure it is on the compression stroke TDC, not the exhaust
>>> > stroke's TDC. You can stick you finger in the plug hole and feel the
>>> > compression as it comes up.
>>> >
>>> > Mike
>>> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>> >
>>> > Bill Lahr wrote:
>>> >
>>> >>I'm trying to fire up a '61 CJ5 that I am almost finished restoring.
>>> >>Engine is from a '64 Buick Special, suspect it is the 198ci because it
>>> >>has a Rochester Monojet rather than the 2bbl found on the 225. No
>>> >>matter, same block, etc. I have compression, I have manifold vacuum,
>>> >>rebuilt the carb, have fuel, rebuilt the distributor (vacuum advance
>>> >>had
>>> >>a hole in it) and have spark, but it won't start. The previous owner
>>> >>had
>>> >>installed a new timing chain after he parked it, but never drove it,
>>> >>and
>>> >>I assume he did that correctly or it would have destroyed a valve in
>>> >>cranking it over. But he apparently had to pull the distributor. It is
>>> >>driven by a hypoid gear that causes the rotor to twist as you remove
>>> >>it,
>>> >>so I suspect he may not have inserted it correctly. At TDC, the rotor
>>> >>was pointing midway between #1 and #6.
>>> >>
>>> >>There is a small notch on the side of the distributor housing that
>>> >>marks
>>> >>the #1 position. What I need is for someone with an Oddfire engine to
>>> >>set it to TDC and tell me where the centerline of the contact strip on
>>> >>top of the rotor is pointing. (The contact is wide at the end, but
>>> >>please ignore that.) Right now, mine points directly at the notch, but
>>> >>I
>>> >>am not sure if this is correct. I can't find any manuals that cover an
>>> >>engine this old. I need to set the ignition timing before I can finish
>>> >>troubleshooting it.
>>> >>
>>> >>Thanks.
>>> >>--
>>> >>
>>> >>Bill Lahr
>>> >>mr.bill@pcmagic.net
>>>
>>> --
>>>
>>> Bill Lahr
>>> mr.bill@pcmagic.net
>
>
for a few times with something that is very high in detergents.
"billy ray" <billy_ray@fuseSPAM.net> wrote in message news:...
> Perhaps he does not understand how to correct the problem if he is one
> tooth when the distributor was installed.
>
> If it is one tooth off it may still be timeable if the distributor can be
> rotated sufficiently.
>
> Check the timing, with a light, while cranking. If you are one tooth off
> you may have to search to find the mark. I used to rub chalk or paint the
> marks with nail polish for visibility.
>
> I do not know if this V-6 is an interference engine. Do you know Bill?
>
> Note where the rotor points while installed.
> Carefully and slowly remove distributor
> Note where rotor now points.
> Rotate rotor one tooth in the appropriate direction
> Slowly re-insert distributor
> Rotor should point directly to cylinder #1 terminal
> Check timing.
>
> Do you have a timing light? If not you can do it manually by setting the
> timing mark at the appropriate advance and rotating the distributor until
> you get a spark.
>
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4430251A.A84117DF@sympatico.ca...
>> Sorry I don't own one.
>>
>> It is normal for the rotor to be slightly past #1 if the timing is set
>> at 5 or more degrees BTDC. What that means is the rotor will hit the
>> contact before the engine hits TDC so when the engine finally is at Top,
>> the rotor has past the contact post for #1 wire.
>>
>> The fire happens when the metal part of the rotor first hits the post on
>> the cap or just when the points first crack open.
>>
>> You turn the distributor's case to fine tune it in. This can be done
>> with a timing light even if it isn't running. The starter cranking will
>> be enough to make the light flash. A test light on the points for a
>> static test will tell too. Set the distributor nut down at first
>> flicker.
>>
>> You should have a notch on the flywheel that indicates TDC also.
>>
>> I don't understand how your rotor can point to both places. Either it
>> is right on the center of the post for the wire if you have the
>> prestolite distributor or it is inbetween 1 and 6 for the delco remy.
>>
>> You turn the distributor's case to fine tune it in. This can be done
>> with a timing light even if it isn't running. The starter cranking will
>> be enough to make the light flash. A test light on the points will tell
>> too. Set the distributor at first flicker.
>>
>> The one that catches most folks is the two different top dead centers
>> the #1 piston has with one 360 rotor rotation.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Bill Lahr wrote:
>>>
>>> Milke,
>>>
>>> Thanks. It is difficult to tell from a book. I have a Haynes manual, but
>>> the drawing isn't that clear and it doesn't have any details on the
>>> early GM engines, only the similar Dauntless V6. The rotor is wide on
>>> the Oddfire distributor and mine will either center on #1 at TDC on the
>>> compression stroke or point between #1 and #6. If you have one of these
>>> engines (Delco distributor), could you pop the cap and look at where the
>>> centerline of the rotor points at TDC? There is a small notch on the
>>> distributor that represents the #1 position. One would assume it would
>>> point to that mark, not past it.
>>>
>>> Bill
>>>
>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>> > My book shows it to be at the 5:00 position looking at it from the
>>> > front
>>> > of the engine with the firing order 165432 clockwise.
>>> >
>>> > Yours sounds like it is off a gear tooth maybe on the rotor or the
>>> > distributor needs to be turned to clock it. It should be at 1 or just
>>> > slightly after towards the 6. My book also shows two different
>>> > advances. It says 0 for the prestolite distributor and 5 deg for the
>>> > delco remy.
>>> >
>>> > Also make sure it is on the compression stroke TDC, not the exhaust
>>> > stroke's TDC. You can stick you finger in the plug hole and feel the
>>> > compression as it comes up.
>>> >
>>> > Mike
>>> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>> >
>>> > Bill Lahr wrote:
>>> >
>>> >>I'm trying to fire up a '61 CJ5 that I am almost finished restoring.
>>> >>Engine is from a '64 Buick Special, suspect it is the 198ci because it
>>> >>has a Rochester Monojet rather than the 2bbl found on the 225. No
>>> >>matter, same block, etc. I have compression, I have manifold vacuum,
>>> >>rebuilt the carb, have fuel, rebuilt the distributor (vacuum advance
>>> >>had
>>> >>a hole in it) and have spark, but it won't start. The previous owner
>>> >>had
>>> >>installed a new timing chain after he parked it, but never drove it,
>>> >>and
>>> >>I assume he did that correctly or it would have destroyed a valve in
>>> >>cranking it over. But he apparently had to pull the distributor. It is
>>> >>driven by a hypoid gear that causes the rotor to twist as you remove
>>> >>it,
>>> >>so I suspect he may not have inserted it correctly. At TDC, the rotor
>>> >>was pointing midway between #1 and #6.
>>> >>
>>> >>There is a small notch on the side of the distributor housing that
>>> >>marks
>>> >>the #1 position. What I need is for someone with an Oddfire engine to
>>> >>set it to TDC and tell me where the centerline of the contact strip on
>>> >>top of the rotor is pointing. (The contact is wide at the end, but
>>> >>please ignore that.) Right now, mine points directly at the notch, but
>>> >>I
>>> >>am not sure if this is correct. I can't find any manuals that cover an
>>> >>engine this old. I need to set the ignition timing before I can finish
>>> >>troubleshooting it.
>>> >>
>>> >>Thanks.
>>> >>--
>>> >>
>>> >>Bill Lahr
>>> >>mr.bill@pcmagic.net
>>>
>>> --
>>>
>>> Bill Lahr
>>> mr.bill@pcmagic.net
>
>
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