Problem with TJ suspension - Clunk
#111
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Problem with TJ suspension - Clunk
Or at least ones with bushings top and bottom like those aftermarket
ones are. A ball joint lined up in line on the end of a push pull part
is a really silly design in my mind.
Mike
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
>
> From the factory, the entire link has to be replaced...once the upper ball
> joint goes, the whole thing is toast. He should replace them with some nice
> disconnects.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41E3F7CE.7626946A@sympatico.ca...
> > I was totally thinking the sway bar bushing at that point. Still not
> > sure what bushing he is changing....
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> > >
> > > Correction...to remove the bushing you will need to remove the Torx
> > > bolt...Mike's going by the aftermarket links in the pic...
> > >
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:41E2CD12.8698D37D@sympatico.ca...
> > > > You should get away with just removing the clip over the bushing.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > dooodahman@gmail.com wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Nice. I just went out and looked at it again. It looks like if I
> am
> > > > > changeing the bushing only, i shouldn't have to remove the torx bolt
> on
> > > > > the bottom. Is that correct? Or will I have to remove the whole
> link?
> > > > > Andrew
ones are. A ball joint lined up in line on the end of a push pull part
is a really silly design in my mind.
Mike
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
>
> From the factory, the entire link has to be replaced...once the upper ball
> joint goes, the whole thing is toast. He should replace them with some nice
> disconnects.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41E3F7CE.7626946A@sympatico.ca...
> > I was totally thinking the sway bar bushing at that point. Still not
> > sure what bushing he is changing....
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> > >
> > > Correction...to remove the bushing you will need to remove the Torx
> > > bolt...Mike's going by the aftermarket links in the pic...
> > >
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:41E2CD12.8698D37D@sympatico.ca...
> > > > You should get away with just removing the clip over the bushing.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > dooodahman@gmail.com wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Nice. I just went out and looked at it again. It looks like if I
> am
> > > > > changeing the bushing only, i shouldn't have to remove the torx bolt
> on
> > > > > the bottom. Is that correct? Or will I have to remove the whole
> link?
> > > > > Andrew
#112
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Problem with TJ suspension - Clunk
Or at least ones with bushings top and bottom like those aftermarket
ones are. A ball joint lined up in line on the end of a push pull part
is a really silly design in my mind.
Mike
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
>
> From the factory, the entire link has to be replaced...once the upper ball
> joint goes, the whole thing is toast. He should replace them with some nice
> disconnects.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41E3F7CE.7626946A@sympatico.ca...
> > I was totally thinking the sway bar bushing at that point. Still not
> > sure what bushing he is changing....
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> > >
> > > Correction...to remove the bushing you will need to remove the Torx
> > > bolt...Mike's going by the aftermarket links in the pic...
> > >
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:41E2CD12.8698D37D@sympatico.ca...
> > > > You should get away with just removing the clip over the bushing.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > dooodahman@gmail.com wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Nice. I just went out and looked at it again. It looks like if I
> am
> > > > > changeing the bushing only, i shouldn't have to remove the torx bolt
> on
> > > > > the bottom. Is that correct? Or will I have to remove the whole
> link?
> > > > > Andrew
ones are. A ball joint lined up in line on the end of a push pull part
is a really silly design in my mind.
Mike
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
>
> From the factory, the entire link has to be replaced...once the upper ball
> joint goes, the whole thing is toast. He should replace them with some nice
> disconnects.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41E3F7CE.7626946A@sympatico.ca...
> > I was totally thinking the sway bar bushing at that point. Still not
> > sure what bushing he is changing....
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> > >
> > > Correction...to remove the bushing you will need to remove the Torx
> > > bolt...Mike's going by the aftermarket links in the pic...
> > >
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:41E2CD12.8698D37D@sympatico.ca...
> > > > You should get away with just removing the clip over the bushing.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > dooodahman@gmail.com wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Nice. I just went out and looked at it again. It looks like if I
> am
> > > > > changeing the bushing only, i shouldn't have to remove the torx bolt
> on
> > > > > the bottom. Is that correct? Or will I have to remove the whole
> link?
> > > > > Andrew
#119
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Problem with TJ suspension - Clunk
wow, you guys rock...I have a '97 TJ and I just tonight figured out
what my problem was by reading this thread....basically, apart from a
different year, I have the same problem as the original poster. The
largest clunk is front right, that's where I feel the slippage from....
I have to drive 150 interstate mi tomorrow to Atlanta (flying over to
South Asia to help out)...will driving with a 'loose' sway bar be
dangerous? or will it damage anything?
I'm a little confused by what all needs to be replaced...at this point,
I'm sure I need two new sway bars (might as well get some quick
disonnects), but do I also need to replace the control bar/stabilizer
bar?
I wouldn't be able to repair any of this until I come back to the US,
which will be after another 150 mi drive...any advice is much
appreciated. (like, if you guys tell me I have to go to the dealer
tomorrow to get this fixed, I will, but I'm guessing I can order some
parts, they'll be delivered when I'm gone, and I can fix it in
February)
what my problem was by reading this thread....basically, apart from a
different year, I have the same problem as the original poster. The
largest clunk is front right, that's where I feel the slippage from....
I have to drive 150 interstate mi tomorrow to Atlanta (flying over to
South Asia to help out)...will driving with a 'loose' sway bar be
dangerous? or will it damage anything?
I'm a little confused by what all needs to be replaced...at this point,
I'm sure I need two new sway bars (might as well get some quick
disonnects), but do I also need to replace the control bar/stabilizer
bar?
I wouldn't be able to repair any of this until I come back to the US,
which will be after another 150 mi drive...any advice is much
appreciated. (like, if you guys tell me I have to go to the dealer
tomorrow to get this fixed, I will, but I'm guessing I can order some
parts, they'll be delivered when I'm gone, and I can fix it in
February)
#120
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Problem with TJ suspension - Clunk
wow, you guys rock...I have a '97 TJ and I just tonight figured out
what my problem was by reading this thread....basically, apart from a
different year, I have the same problem as the original poster. The
largest clunk is front right, that's where I feel the slippage from....
I have to drive 150 interstate mi tomorrow to Atlanta (flying over to
South Asia to help out)...will driving with a 'loose' sway bar be
dangerous? or will it damage anything?
I'm a little confused by what all needs to be replaced...at this point,
I'm sure I need two new sway bars (might as well get some quick
disonnects), but do I also need to replace the control bar/stabilizer
bar?
I wouldn't be able to repair any of this until I come back to the US,
which will be after another 150 mi drive...any advice is much
appreciated. (like, if you guys tell me I have to go to the dealer
tomorrow to get this fixed, I will, but I'm guessing I can order some
parts, they'll be delivered when I'm gone, and I can fix it in
February)
what my problem was by reading this thread....basically, apart from a
different year, I have the same problem as the original poster. The
largest clunk is front right, that's where I feel the slippage from....
I have to drive 150 interstate mi tomorrow to Atlanta (flying over to
South Asia to help out)...will driving with a 'loose' sway bar be
dangerous? or will it damage anything?
I'm a little confused by what all needs to be replaced...at this point,
I'm sure I need two new sway bars (might as well get some quick
disonnects), but do I also need to replace the control bar/stabilizer
bar?
I wouldn't be able to repair any of this until I come back to the US,
which will be after another 150 mi drive...any advice is much
appreciated. (like, if you guys tell me I have to go to the dealer
tomorrow to get this fixed, I will, but I'm guessing I can order some
parts, they'll be delivered when I'm gone, and I can fix it in
February)