I just bought a good compression tester today and had a chance to test the
first two cylinders (#1 and #2, #2 is the leaker/problem), ran out of time
before I could get them all done. I got 150 psi on both cylinders after 4
cranks on a cold engine. This is exactly what my mechanic got.

Comments? So does this point to the head/valve guide as the problem?

Thanks,

Bill

 

William Oliveri wrote:
> I just bought a good compression tester today and had a chance to test the
> first two cylinders (#1 and #2, #2 is the leaker/problem), ran out of time
> before I could get them all done. I got 150 psi on both cylinders after 4
> cranks on a cold engine. This is exactly what my mechanic got.
>
> Comments? So does this point to the head/valve guide as the problem?

This probably isn't going to be super helpful but: It points to your
engine being just fine. If you have good compression, you have no odd
valve train noise, and you have no blue smoke, no oil in the coolant, or
vice versa, and the engine is running well... You don't have a problem.
Unless of course all the other cylinders show higher compression than
the first two).

Oil on one of the plugs threads (but not on the important part of the
plug) with no fouling or missing probably means that some oil got into
the plug hole threads (maybe from a previous valve cover leak, or while
you were doing the valve job?).

Of course I might very well be wrong, but it seems to me like you're
looking for reasons why you may have messed up the valve job, when no
real symptoms have actually cropped up.

BTW I've enjoyed your posts, as a non mechanic who's also trying to
learn about this stuff in preparation for future DIY projects. I think
I'm learning almost as much from the answers to your questions as you
are (all the way back to the original pinging at idle thread).

--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

 

William Oliveri wrote:
> I just bought a good compression tester today and had a chance to test the
> first two cylinders (#1 and #2, #2 is the leaker/problem), ran out of time
> before I could get them all done. I got 150 psi on both cylinders after 4
> cranks on a cold engine. This is exactly what my mechanic got.
>
> Comments? So does this point to the head/valve guide as the problem?

This probably isn't going to be super helpful but: It points to your
engine being just fine. If you have good compression, you have no odd
valve train noise, and you have no blue smoke, no oil in the coolant, or
vice versa, and the engine is running well... You don't have a problem.
Unless of course all the other cylinders show higher compression than
the first two).

Oil on one of the plugs threads (but not on the important part of the
plug) with no fouling or missing probably means that some oil got into
the plug hole threads (maybe from a previous valve cover leak, or while
you were doing the valve job?).

Of course I might very well be wrong, but it seems to me like you're
looking for reasons why you may have messed up the valve job, when no
real symptoms have actually cropped up.

BTW I've enjoyed your posts, as a non mechanic who's also trying to
learn about this stuff in preparation for future DIY projects. I think
I'm learning almost as much from the answers to your questions as you
are (all the way back to the original pinging at idle thread).

--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

 

William Oliveri wrote:
> I just bought a good compression tester today and had a chance to test the
> first two cylinders (#1 and #2, #2 is the leaker/problem), ran out of time
> before I could get them all done. I got 150 psi on both cylinders after 4
> cranks on a cold engine. This is exactly what my mechanic got.
>
> Comments? So does this point to the head/valve guide as the problem?

This probably isn't going to be super helpful but: It points to your
engine being just fine. If you have good compression, you have no odd
valve train noise, and you have no blue smoke, no oil in the coolant, or
vice versa, and the engine is running well... You don't have a problem.
Unless of course all the other cylinders show higher compression than
the first two).

Oil on one of the plugs threads (but not on the important part of the
plug) with no fouling or missing probably means that some oil got into
the plug hole threads (maybe from a previous valve cover leak, or while
you were doing the valve job?).

Of course I might very well be wrong, but it seems to me like you're
looking for reasons why you may have messed up the valve job, when no
real symptoms have actually cropped up.

BTW I've enjoyed your posts, as a non mechanic who's also trying to
learn about this stuff in preparation for future DIY projects. I think
I'm learning almost as much from the answers to your questions as you
are (all the way back to the original pinging at idle thread).

--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

 

Thanks Simon,
However, I do get fouling on the plug. If it was only the threads I could
care less. The plug is coming out soaked with oil and fouling.

Again, glad you're are benefiting from these exchanges.

Bill


"Simon Juncal" <SPAMERSSUCK@usefirstinitialandlastnameATerols.com > wrote in
message news:4028479B.8090007@usefirstinitialandlastnameAT erols.com...
> William Oliveri wrote:
> > I just bought a good compression tester today and had a chance to test
the
> > first two cylinders (#1 and #2, #2 is the leaker/problem), ran out of
time
> > before I could get them all done. I got 150 psi on both cylinders after
4
> > cranks on a cold engine. This is exactly what my mechanic got.
> >
> > Comments? So does this point to the head/valve guide as the problem?
>
> This probably isn't going to be super helpful but: It points to your
> engine being just fine. If you have good compression, you have no odd
> valve train noise, and you have no blue smoke, no oil in the coolant, or
> vice versa, and the engine is running well... You don't have a problem.
> Unless of course all the other cylinders show higher compression than
> the first two).
>
> Oil on one of the plugs threads (but not on the important part of the
> plug) with no fouling or missing probably means that some oil got into
> the plug hole threads (maybe from a previous valve cover leak, or while
> you were doing the valve job?).
>
> Of course I might very well be wrong, but it seems to me like you're
> looking for reasons why you may have messed up the valve job, when no
> real symptoms have actually cropped up.
>
> BTW I've enjoyed your posts, as a non mechanic who's also trying to
> learn about this stuff in preparation for future DIY projects. I think
> I'm learning almost as much from the answers to your questions as you
> are (all the way back to the original pinging at idle thread).
>
> --
> Simon
> "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
>

 

Thanks Simon,
However, I do get fouling on the plug. If it was only the threads I could
care less. The plug is coming out soaked with oil and fouling.

Again, glad you're are benefiting from these exchanges.

Bill


"Simon Juncal" <SPAMERSSUCK@usefirstinitialandlastnameATerols.com > wrote in
message news:4028479B.8090007@usefirstinitialandlastnameAT erols.com...
> William Oliveri wrote:
> > I just bought a good compression tester today and had a chance to test
the
> > first two cylinders (#1 and #2, #2 is the leaker/problem), ran out of
time
> > before I could get them all done. I got 150 psi on both cylinders after
4
> > cranks on a cold engine. This is exactly what my mechanic got.
> >
> > Comments? So does this point to the head/valve guide as the problem?
>
> This probably isn't going to be super helpful but: It points to your
> engine being just fine. If you have good compression, you have no odd
> valve train noise, and you have no blue smoke, no oil in the coolant, or
> vice versa, and the engine is running well... You don't have a problem.
> Unless of course all the other cylinders show higher compression than
> the first two).
>
> Oil on one of the plugs threads (but not on the important part of the
> plug) with no fouling or missing probably means that some oil got into
> the plug hole threads (maybe from a previous valve cover leak, or while
> you were doing the valve job?).
>
> Of course I might very well be wrong, but it seems to me like you're
> looking for reasons why you may have messed up the valve job, when no
> real symptoms have actually cropped up.
>
> BTW I've enjoyed your posts, as a non mechanic who's also trying to
> learn about this stuff in preparation for future DIY projects. I think
> I'm learning almost as much from the answers to your questions as you
> are (all the way back to the original pinging at idle thread).
>
> --
> Simon
> "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
>

 

Thanks Simon,
However, I do get fouling on the plug. If it was only the threads I could
care less. The plug is coming out soaked with oil and fouling.

Again, glad you're are benefiting from these exchanges.

Bill


"Simon Juncal" <SPAMERSSUCK@usefirstinitialandlastnameATerols.com > wrote in
message news:4028479B.8090007@usefirstinitialandlastnameAT erols.com...
> William Oliveri wrote:
> > I just bought a good compression tester today and had a chance to test
the
> > first two cylinders (#1 and #2, #2 is the leaker/problem), ran out of
time
> > before I could get them all done. I got 150 psi on both cylinders after
4
> > cranks on a cold engine. This is exactly what my mechanic got.
> >
> > Comments? So does this point to the head/valve guide as the problem?
>
> This probably isn't going to be super helpful but: It points to your
> engine being just fine. If you have good compression, you have no odd
> valve train noise, and you have no blue smoke, no oil in the coolant, or
> vice versa, and the engine is running well... You don't have a problem.
> Unless of course all the other cylinders show higher compression than
> the first two).
>
> Oil on one of the plugs threads (but not on the important part of the
> plug) with no fouling or missing probably means that some oil got into
> the plug hole threads (maybe from a previous valve cover leak, or while
> you were doing the valve job?).
>
> Of course I might very well be wrong, but it seems to me like you're
> looking for reasons why you may have messed up the valve job, when no
> real symptoms have actually cropped up.
>
> BTW I've enjoyed your posts, as a non mechanic who's also trying to
> learn about this stuff in preparation for future DIY projects. I think
> I'm learning almost as much from the answers to your questions as you
> are (all the way back to the original pinging at idle thread).
>
> --
> Simon
> "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
>

 

You have something wierd going on and I suspect that it's time to take
the suggestion someone made earlier: Swap #1 and #2 injectors. For
some reason, that #2 jug is just not getting hot enough to burn the
plug clean - either too much gas from a bad injector, a bad plug wire
to #2 or both. I've had plug wires separate from the end clips and do
just what you describe - they were close enough to let the spark arc
over but the result was a weak spark at the plug tip. Ran fine for a
while but it wimped out under load, then finally started to miss
noticably.

On Tue, 10 Feb 2004 03:29:13 UTC "William Oliveri"
<wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote:

> Thanks Simon,
> However, I do get fouling on the plug. If it was only the threads I could
> care less. The plug is coming out soaked with oil and fouling.
>
> Again, glad you're are benefiting from these exchanges.
>
> Bill
>
>
> "Simon Juncal" <SPAMERSSUCK@usefirstinitialandlastnameATerols.com > wrote in
> message news:4028479B.8090007@usefirstinitialandlastnameAT erols.com...
> > William Oliveri wrote:
> > > I just bought a good compression tester today and had a chance to test
> the
> > > first two cylinders (#1 and #2, #2 is the leaker/problem), ran out of
> time
> > > before I could get them all done. I got 150 psi on both cylinders after
> 4
> > > cranks on a cold engine. This is exactly what my mechanic got.
> > >
> > > Comments? So does this point to the head/valve guide as the problem?
> >
> > This probably isn't going to be super helpful but: It points to your
> > engine being just fine. If you have good compression, you have no odd
> > valve train noise, and you have no blue smoke, no oil in the coolant, or
> > vice versa, and the engine is running well... You don't have a problem.
> > Unless of course all the other cylinders show higher compression than
> > the first two).
> >
> > Oil on one of the plugs threads (but not on the important part of the
> > plug) with no fouling or missing probably means that some oil got into
> > the plug hole threads (maybe from a previous valve cover leak, or while
> > you were doing the valve job?).
> >
> > Of course I might very well be wrong, but it seems to me like you're
> > looking for reasons why you may have messed up the valve job, when no
> > real symptoms have actually cropped up.
> >
> > BTW I've enjoyed your posts, as a non mechanic who's also trying to
> > learn about this stuff in preparation for future DIY projects. I think
> > I'm learning almost as much from the answers to your questions as you
> > are (all the way back to the original pinging at idle thread).
> >
> > --
> > Simon
> > "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
> >
>
>


--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

 

You have something wierd going on and I suspect that it's time to take
the suggestion someone made earlier: Swap #1 and #2 injectors. For
some reason, that #2 jug is just not getting hot enough to burn the
plug clean - either too much gas from a bad injector, a bad plug wire
to #2 or both. I've had plug wires separate from the end clips and do
just what you describe - they were close enough to let the spark arc
over but the result was a weak spark at the plug tip. Ran fine for a
while but it wimped out under load, then finally started to miss
noticably.

On Tue, 10 Feb 2004 03:29:13 UTC "William Oliveri"
<wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote:

> Thanks Simon,
> However, I do get fouling on the plug. If it was only the threads I could
> care less. The plug is coming out soaked with oil and fouling.
>
> Again, glad you're are benefiting from these exchanges.
>
> Bill
>
>
> "Simon Juncal" <SPAMERSSUCK@usefirstinitialandlastnameATerols.com > wrote in
> message news:4028479B.8090007@usefirstinitialandlastnameAT erols.com...
> > William Oliveri wrote:
> > > I just bought a good compression tester today and had a chance to test
> the
> > > first two cylinders (#1 and #2, #2 is the leaker/problem), ran out of
> time
> > > before I could get them all done. I got 150 psi on both cylinders after
> 4
> > > cranks on a cold engine. This is exactly what my mechanic got.
> > >
> > > Comments? So does this point to the head/valve guide as the problem?
> >
> > This probably isn't going to be super helpful but: It points to your
> > engine being just fine. If you have good compression, you have no odd
> > valve train noise, and you have no blue smoke, no oil in the coolant, or
> > vice versa, and the engine is running well... You don't have a problem.
> > Unless of course all the other cylinders show higher compression than
> > the first two).
> >
> > Oil on one of the plugs threads (but not on the important part of the
> > plug) with no fouling or missing probably means that some oil got into
> > the plug hole threads (maybe from a previous valve cover leak, or while
> > you were doing the valve job?).
> >
> > Of course I might very well be wrong, but it seems to me like you're
> > looking for reasons why you may have messed up the valve job, when no
> > real symptoms have actually cropped up.
> >
> > BTW I've enjoyed your posts, as a non mechanic who's also trying to
> > learn about this stuff in preparation for future DIY projects. I think
> > I'm learning almost as much from the answers to your questions as you
> > are (all the way back to the original pinging at idle thread).
> >
> > --
> > Simon
> > "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
> >
>
>


--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

 

You have something wierd going on and I suspect that it's time to take
the suggestion someone made earlier: Swap #1 and #2 injectors. For
some reason, that #2 jug is just not getting hot enough to burn the
plug clean - either too much gas from a bad injector, a bad plug wire
to #2 or both. I've had plug wires separate from the end clips and do
just what you describe - they were close enough to let the spark arc
over but the result was a weak spark at the plug tip. Ran fine for a
while but it wimped out under load, then finally started to miss
noticably.

On Tue, 10 Feb 2004 03:29:13 UTC "William Oliveri"
<wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote:

> Thanks Simon,
> However, I do get fouling on the plug. If it was only the threads I could
> care less. The plug is coming out soaked with oil and fouling.
>
> Again, glad you're are benefiting from these exchanges.
>
> Bill
>
>
> "Simon Juncal" <SPAMERSSUCK@usefirstinitialandlastnameATerols.com > wrote in
> message news:4028479B.8090007@usefirstinitialandlastnameAT erols.com...
> > William Oliveri wrote:
> > > I just bought a good compression tester today and had a chance to test
> the
> > > first two cylinders (#1 and #2, #2 is the leaker/problem), ran out of
> time
> > > before I could get them all done. I got 150 psi on both cylinders after
> 4
> > > cranks on a cold engine. This is exactly what my mechanic got.
> > >
> > > Comments? So does this point to the head/valve guide as the problem?
> >
> > This probably isn't going to be super helpful but: It points to your
> > engine being just fine. If you have good compression, you have no odd
> > valve train noise, and you have no blue smoke, no oil in the coolant, or
> > vice versa, and the engine is running well... You don't have a problem.
> > Unless of course all the other cylinders show higher compression than
> > the first two).
> >
> > Oil on one of the plugs threads (but not on the important part of the
> > plug) with no fouling or missing probably means that some oil got into
> > the plug hole threads (maybe from a previous valve cover leak, or while
> > you were doing the valve job?).
> >
> > Of course I might very well be wrong, but it seems to me like you're
> > looking for reasons why you may have messed up the valve job, when no
> > real symptoms have actually cropped up.
> >
> > BTW I've enjoyed your posts, as a non mechanic who's also trying to
> > learn about this stuff in preparation for future DIY projects. I think
> > I'm learning almost as much from the answers to your questions as you
> > are (all the way back to the original pinging at idle thread).
> >
> > --
> > Simon
> > "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
> >
>
>


--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>