alexmacpherson@rogers.com

On Mar 26, 12:31 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> alexmacpher...@rogers.com wrote:
> > On Mar 26, 10:36 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >> alexmacpher...@rogers.com wrote:
> >>> On Mar 26, 12:12 am, "L.W. \(Bill\) ------ III" <billhug...@***.net>
> >>> wrote:
> >>>> We believe you're missing the fork's pivot ball, number twenty:http://www.----------.com/clutch/Seemslikea part you could pop in from
> >>>> the outside, via a mirror and prayers.
> >>>> God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
> >>>> mailto:LW------...@aol.comhttp://www.----------.com/
> >>>> <alexmacpher...@rogers.com> wrote in message
> >>>>news:1174875488.781415.209690@b75g2000hsg.goog legroups.com...
> >>>>> ..just finished installing a new clutch on my 85 cj7 /amc 150
> >>>>> 4popper. Now the clutch won't disengage...I bled the hydraulic clutch
> >>>>> system...I'm sure I put the disc on properly...the only way i could
> >>>>> get it to work was to use a 6 inch socket extender in place of the
> >>>>> slave cylinder push rod. It's working but what went wrong? Where did
> >>>>> I lose the space?? Why is the clutch slave push rod now too short??
> >>>>> Any ideas?
> >>>> --
> >>>> Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com
> >>> the clutch fork doesn't look like the one in the diagram-the slave
> >>> cylinder push rod enters on the passenger's side, and there is a pivot
> >>> ball on the driver's side -I checked-pulled the inspection plate-and I
> >>> could see the ball still there. However, there never was part 20 from
> >>> the beginning when I opened it up...Is that plastic?
> >> From my experience with CJ's if the parts don't 'look' the same as the
> >> drawing, you have the wrong parts....
>
> >> I went through 3 or 4 throw out bearings trying to find one to match
> >> mine, then gave up piecing it together and bought a kit with a totally
> >> different bearing again in it. The one in the kit matched though.
>
> >> There is a slot in some of the bearings the shift fork slides in and
> >> others had clips on the back. One made the fork in the wrong place.
>
> >> Mike
> >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> >> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > The new throwout bearing seated the same way that the previous one
> > did, with 2 spring tabs and 2 little stubs that mate with holes in the
> > throwout bearing's collar. I did not think to measure the throwout
> > bearing height compared to the old one..they appeared to be similar.
> > Note: I did find yellow plastic fragments in the sludge at the bottom
> > of the bellhousing when I first removed it and cleaned it. I'm
> > guessing that was the previous pivot that had worn away. My temporary
> > pushrod solution seems to work -the clutch disengages fully. Could I
> > just find an adjustable push rod and use that?
>
> Height was a big issue on mine. The bearings were different height as
> well as some grabbed different. The interesting part was the different
> designs actually fit on the fork.
>
> If you got a different height one and everything works with the shorter
> rod, I would think about just changing the rod. As long as you still
> have enough travel, you should be ok.
>
> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Thanks for your insight guys, very much appreciated!

alexmacpherson@rogers.com

On Mar 26, 12:31 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> alexmacpher...@rogers.com wrote:
> > On Mar 26, 10:36 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >> alexmacpher...@rogers.com wrote:
> >>> On Mar 26, 12:12 am, "L.W. \(Bill\) ------ III" <billhug...@***.net>
> >>> wrote:
> >>>> We believe you're missing the fork's pivot ball, number twenty:http://www.----------.com/clutch/Seemslikea part you could pop in from
> >>>> the outside, via a mirror and prayers.
> >>>> God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
> >>>> mailto:LW------...@aol.comhttp://www.----------.com/
> >>>> <alexmacpher...@rogers.com> wrote in message
> >>>>news:1174875488.781415.209690@b75g2000hsg.goog legroups.com...
> >>>>> ..just finished installing a new clutch on my 85 cj7 /amc 150
> >>>>> 4popper. Now the clutch won't disengage...I bled the hydraulic clutch
> >>>>> system...I'm sure I put the disc on properly...the only way i could
> >>>>> get it to work was to use a 6 inch socket extender in place of the
> >>>>> slave cylinder push rod. It's working but what went wrong? Where did
> >>>>> I lose the space?? Why is the clutch slave push rod now too short??
> >>>>> Any ideas?
> >>>> --
> >>>> Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com
> >>> the clutch fork doesn't look like the one in the diagram-the slave
> >>> cylinder push rod enters on the passenger's side, and there is a pivot
> >>> ball on the driver's side -I checked-pulled the inspection plate-and I
> >>> could see the ball still there. However, there never was part 20 from
> >>> the beginning when I opened it up...Is that plastic?
> >> From my experience with CJ's if the parts don't 'look' the same as the
> >> drawing, you have the wrong parts....
>
> >> I went through 3 or 4 throw out bearings trying to find one to match
> >> mine, then gave up piecing it together and bought a kit with a totally
> >> different bearing again in it. The one in the kit matched though.
>
> >> There is a slot in some of the bearings the shift fork slides in and
> >> others had clips on the back. One made the fork in the wrong place.
>
> >> Mike
> >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> >> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > The new throwout bearing seated the same way that the previous one
> > did, with 2 spring tabs and 2 little stubs that mate with holes in the
> > throwout bearing's collar. I did not think to measure the throwout
> > bearing height compared to the old one..they appeared to be similar.
> > Note: I did find yellow plastic fragments in the sludge at the bottom
> > of the bellhousing when I first removed it and cleaned it. I'm
> > guessing that was the previous pivot that had worn away. My temporary
> > pushrod solution seems to work -the clutch disengages fully. Could I
> > just find an adjustable push rod and use that?
>
> Height was a big issue on mine. The bearings were different height as
> well as some grabbed different. The interesting part was the different
> designs actually fit on the fork.
>
> If you got a different height one and everything works with the shorter
> rod, I would think about just changing the rod. As long as you still
> have enough travel, you should be ok.
>
> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Thanks for your insight guys, very much appreciated!

The Reverend Natural Light

Does the clutch fork have spring clips? Did you hook the spring clips
over the release bearing? At first glance it looks like that's what
you're supposed to do, but then they push the slave cylinder piston
back in and throw it out of adjustment. The spring won't let the
hydraulics "pump back out", but the 6" socket extension bottoms out
the self adjustment of the slave cylinder so it seems to work
normally.

Fortunately it's an easy fix if that's the problem. Pop the fork off
the pivot ball, pull it off the release bearing, and feed it back in
so that both the springs and fork ends fit in the same groove of the
release bearing. There should be room to do that without dropping the
transmission again.

-rev



On Mar 25, 10:18 pm, alexmacpher...@rogers.com wrote:
> ..just finished installing a new clutch on my 85 cj7 /amc 150
> 4popper. Now the clutch won't disengage...I bled the hydraulic clutch
> system...I'm sure I put the disc on properly...the only way i could
> get it to work was to use a 6 inch socket extender in place of the
> slave cylinder push rod. It's working but what went wrong? Where did
> I lose the space?? Why is the clutch slave push rod now too short??
> Any ideas?

The Reverend Natural Light

Does the clutch fork have spring clips? Did you hook the spring clips
over the release bearing? At first glance it looks like that's what
you're supposed to do, but then they push the slave cylinder piston
back in and throw it out of adjustment. The spring won't let the
hydraulics "pump back out", but the 6" socket extension bottoms out
the self adjustment of the slave cylinder so it seems to work
normally.

Fortunately it's an easy fix if that's the problem. Pop the fork off
the pivot ball, pull it off the release bearing, and feed it back in
so that both the springs and fork ends fit in the same groove of the
release bearing. There should be room to do that without dropping the
transmission again.

-rev



On Mar 25, 10:18 pm, alexmacpher...@rogers.com wrote:
> ..just finished installing a new clutch on my 85 cj7 /amc 150
> 4popper. Now the clutch won't disengage...I bled the hydraulic clutch
> system...I'm sure I put the disc on properly...the only way i could
> get it to work was to use a 6 inch socket extender in place of the
> slave cylinder push rod. It's working but what went wrong? Where did
> I lose the space?? Why is the clutch slave push rod now too short??
> Any ideas?

The Reverend Natural Light

Does the clutch fork have spring clips? Did you hook the spring clips
over the release bearing? At first glance it looks like that's what
you're supposed to do, but then they push the slave cylinder piston
back in and throw it out of adjustment. The spring won't let the
hydraulics "pump back out", but the 6" socket extension bottoms out
the self adjustment of the slave cylinder so it seems to work
normally.

Fortunately it's an easy fix if that's the problem. Pop the fork off
the pivot ball, pull it off the release bearing, and feed it back in
so that both the springs and fork ends fit in the same groove of the
release bearing. There should be room to do that without dropping the
transmission again.

-rev



On Mar 25, 10:18 pm, alexmacpher...@rogers.com wrote:
> ..just finished installing a new clutch on my 85 cj7 /amc 150
> 4popper. Now the clutch won't disengage...I bled the hydraulic clutch
> system...I'm sure I put the disc on properly...the only way i could
> get it to work was to use a 6 inch socket extender in place of the
> slave cylinder push rod. It's working but what went wrong? Where did
> I lose the space?? Why is the clutch slave push rod now too short??
> Any ideas?

alexmacpherson@rogers.com

On Mar 27, 5:35 pm, "The Reverend Natural Light"
<rever...@fourthgen.org> wrote:
> Does the clutch fork have spring clips? Did you hook the spring clips
> over the release bearing? At first glance it looks like that's what
> you're supposed to do, but then they push the slave cylinder piston
> back in and throw it out of adjustment. The spring won't let the
> hydraulics "pump back out", but the 6" socket extension bottoms out
> the self adjustment of the slave cylinder so it seems to work
> normally.
>
> Fortunately it's an easy fix if that's the problem. Pop the fork off
> the pivot ball, pull it off the release bearing, and feed it back in
> so that both the springs and fork ends fit in the same groove of the
> release bearing. There should be room to do that without dropping the
> transmission again.
>
> -rev
>
> On Mar 25, 10:18 pm, alexmacpher...@rogers.com wrote:
>
>
>
> > ..just finished installing a new clutch on my 85 cj7 /amc 150
> > 4popper. Now the clutch won't disengage...I bled the hydraulic clutch
> > system...I'm sure I put the disc on properly...the only way i could
> > get it to work was to use a 6 inch socket extender in place of the
> > slave cylinder push rod. It's working but what went wrong? Where did
> > I lose the space?? Why is the clutch slave push rod now too short??
> > Any ideas?- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Not sure if that is the case...the retaining spring tabs on the clutch
fork don't seem to allow the bearing to seat any other possible
way...however, I have confirmed that I am indeed missing the plastic
'pivot' that rides on the end of the push rod and I have ordered that
part..hopefully that will help. The amc 150 clutch setup is not
exactly the same as the GM 2.5 or the 6 cyl - most diagrams show the 6
cylinder or the gm...my Haynes manual was this way too - there was no
diagram showing the clutch fork that I have. (I should have a FSM!!)

alexmacpherson@rogers.com

On Mar 27, 5:35 pm, "The Reverend Natural Light"
<rever...@fourthgen.org> wrote:
> Does the clutch fork have spring clips? Did you hook the spring clips
> over the release bearing? At first glance it looks like that's what
> you're supposed to do, but then they push the slave cylinder piston
> back in and throw it out of adjustment. The spring won't let the
> hydraulics "pump back out", but the 6" socket extension bottoms out
> the self adjustment of the slave cylinder so it seems to work
> normally.
>
> Fortunately it's an easy fix if that's the problem. Pop the fork off
> the pivot ball, pull it off the release bearing, and feed it back in
> so that both the springs and fork ends fit in the same groove of the
> release bearing. There should be room to do that without dropping the
> transmission again.
>
> -rev
>
> On Mar 25, 10:18 pm, alexmacpher...@rogers.com wrote:
>
>
>
> > ..just finished installing a new clutch on my 85 cj7 /amc 150
> > 4popper. Now the clutch won't disengage...I bled the hydraulic clutch
> > system...I'm sure I put the disc on properly...the only way i could
> > get it to work was to use a 6 inch socket extender in place of the
> > slave cylinder push rod. It's working but what went wrong? Where did
> > I lose the space?? Why is the clutch slave push rod now too short??
> > Any ideas?- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Not sure if that is the case...the retaining spring tabs on the clutch
fork don't seem to allow the bearing to seat any other possible
way...however, I have confirmed that I am indeed missing the plastic
'pivot' that rides on the end of the push rod and I have ordered that
part..hopefully that will help. The amc 150 clutch setup is not
exactly the same as the GM 2.5 or the 6 cyl - most diagrams show the 6
cylinder or the gm...my Haynes manual was this way too - there was no
diagram showing the clutch fork that I have. (I should have a FSM!!)

alexmacpherson@rogers.com

On Mar 27, 5:35 pm, "The Reverend Natural Light"
<rever...@fourthgen.org> wrote:
> Does the clutch fork have spring clips? Did you hook the spring clips
> over the release bearing? At first glance it looks like that's what
> you're supposed to do, but then they push the slave cylinder piston
> back in and throw it out of adjustment. The spring won't let the
> hydraulics "pump back out", but the 6" socket extension bottoms out
> the self adjustment of the slave cylinder so it seems to work
> normally.
>
> Fortunately it's an easy fix if that's the problem. Pop the fork off
> the pivot ball, pull it off the release bearing, and feed it back in
> so that both the springs and fork ends fit in the same groove of the
> release bearing. There should be room to do that without dropping the
> transmission again.
>
> -rev
>
> On Mar 25, 10:18 pm, alexmacpher...@rogers.com wrote:
>
>
>
> > ..just finished installing a new clutch on my 85 cj7 /amc 150
> > 4popper. Now the clutch won't disengage...I bled the hydraulic clutch
> > system...I'm sure I put the disc on properly...the only way i could
> > get it to work was to use a 6 inch socket extender in place of the
> > slave cylinder push rod. It's working but what went wrong? Where did
> > I lose the space?? Why is the clutch slave push rod now too short??
> > Any ideas?- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Not sure if that is the case...the retaining spring tabs on the clutch
fork don't seem to allow the bearing to seat any other possible
way...however, I have confirmed that I am indeed missing the plastic
'pivot' that rides on the end of the push rod and I have ordered that
part..hopefully that will help. The amc 150 clutch setup is not
exactly the same as the GM 2.5 or the 6 cyl - most diagrams show the 6
cylinder or the gm...my Haynes manual was this way too - there was no
diagram showing the clutch fork that I have. (I should have a FSM!!)

alexmacpherson@rogers.com

On Mar 26, 12:12 am, "L.W. \(Bill\) ------ III" <billhug...@***.net>
wrote:
> We believe you're missing the fork's pivot ball, number twenty:http://www.----------.com/clutch/Seems like a part you could pop in from
> the outside, via a mirror and prayers.
> God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
> mailto:LW------...@aol.comhttp://www.----------.com/
>
> <alexmacpher...@rogers.com> wrote in message
>
> news:1174875488.781415.209690@b75g2000hsg.googlegr oups.com...
>
> > ..just finished installing a new clutch on my 85 cj7 /amc 150
> > 4popper. Now the clutch won't disengage...I bled the hydraulic clutch
> > system...I'm sure I put the disc on properly...the only way i could
> > get it to work was to use a 6 inch socket extender in place of the
> > slave cylinder push rod. It's working but what went wrong? Where did
> > I lose the space?? Why is the clutch slave push rod now too short??
> > Any ideas?
>
> --
> Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com

You were bang on Bill! I got the part from the dealer, slapped it in,
and it works! Thanks!

alexmacpherson@rogers.com

On Mar 26, 12:12 am, "L.W. \(Bill\) ------ III" <billhug...@***.net>
wrote:
> We believe you're missing the fork's pivot ball, number twenty:http://www.----------.com/clutch/Seems like a part you could pop in from
> the outside, via a mirror and prayers.
> God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
> mailto:LW------...@aol.comhttp://www.----------.com/
>
> <alexmacpher...@rogers.com> wrote in message
>
> news:1174875488.781415.209690@b75g2000hsg.googlegr oups.com...
>
> > ..just finished installing a new clutch on my 85 cj7 /amc 150
> > 4popper. Now the clutch won't disengage...I bled the hydraulic clutch
> > system...I'm sure I put the disc on properly...the only way i could
> > get it to work was to use a 6 inch socket extender in place of the
> > slave cylinder push rod. It's working but what went wrong? Where did
> > I lose the space?? Why is the clutch slave push rod now too short??
> > Any ideas?
>
> --
> Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com

You were bang on Bill! I got the part from the dealer, slapped it in,
and it works! Thanks!