Lifting leaf-spring suspension
10-17-2003 | 09:15 AM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Lifting leaf-spring suspension
I'm just reading and trying to learn here and came up with a couple of
questions. I read that lift blocks pretty much suck and I can see why
because of how they'd multiply axle-wrap. I'm _not_ going to use lift
blocks but I am wondering why I keep hearing "If you *do* use them
then just be sure to NEVER use them on the front axle." Why is that?
Also I was just thinking and it seems to me like if you put something
like a 1" or so lift block between the frame and the spring perches,
that you'd get a corresponding amount of lift without increasing the
multiplier for axle wrap. Know what I mean? It just seems like you'd
be sort of doing the same thing you're doing with a body lift, but on
the underside of the frame rather than on the top side of the frame.
What would be bad/wrong with doing that? Seems like that would be
easier than doing the body lift since you could do one perch at a time
rather than having to remove the whole body. The more I read, the
more I'm thinking I don't want much of a lift at all, just enough to
clear the tires I wind up with, and I'm not shy about fender trimming
so I don't think I'm going to wind up lifting my Jeep (when I get it)
much at all. If I got a CJ-5 and wanted to put 33" tires on it and
the suspension was 100% stock, would fender-trimming alone be enough
to clear those tires or would there be other interference spots? I'd
want to put a MILD lift of some sort on it anyway, but I'm just
wondering if in general the limiting factor on tire size is fender
clearance. (I mean other than the extra stress put on the driveline.)
Can you guys please comment on the questions I posed above? Thank
you.
--
Travis
http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
:wq!
questions. I read that lift blocks pretty much suck and I can see why
because of how they'd multiply axle-wrap. I'm _not_ going to use lift
blocks but I am wondering why I keep hearing "If you *do* use them
then just be sure to NEVER use them on the front axle." Why is that?
Also I was just thinking and it seems to me like if you put something
like a 1" or so lift block between the frame and the spring perches,
that you'd get a corresponding amount of lift without increasing the
multiplier for axle wrap. Know what I mean? It just seems like you'd
be sort of doing the same thing you're doing with a body lift, but on
the underside of the frame rather than on the top side of the frame.
What would be bad/wrong with doing that? Seems like that would be
easier than doing the body lift since you could do one perch at a time
rather than having to remove the whole body. The more I read, the
more I'm thinking I don't want much of a lift at all, just enough to
clear the tires I wind up with, and I'm not shy about fender trimming
so I don't think I'm going to wind up lifting my Jeep (when I get it)
much at all. If I got a CJ-5 and wanted to put 33" tires on it and
the suspension was 100% stock, would fender-trimming alone be enough
to clear those tires or would there be other interference spots? I'd
want to put a MILD lift of some sort on it anyway, but I'm just
wondering if in general the limiting factor on tire size is fender
clearance. (I mean other than the extra stress put on the driveline.)
Can you guys please comment on the questions I posed above? Thank
you.
--
Travis
http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
:wq!
10-17-2003 | 10:02 AM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Lifting leaf-spring suspension
Spring lift blocks are illegal in most states and dangerous in all. As far
as body lift, you don't actually remove the body... simply unbolt existing
mounts and raise the body enough for each new spacer. You are correct about
lifting only enough to clear the tires, especially on the early narrow track
CJ's. Which brings me to another suggestion... you might want to look for
82 or newer CJ's to get the wide track axles. You will need some kind of
lift to clear 33's, you might get away with 2" body. Personally, I would
avoid trimming the body for aesthetic reasons.
To get more lift on a CJ, either use lift springs or do a spring over axle
(SOA) conversion. Don't do body lift over 3", also illegal in most states
and causes shift, clutch, and steering linkage problems. Also stay away
from extended shackles.
When you do get your Jeep, you will probably be the best prepared new owner
ever! Keep it up!
--
JimG
80' CJ-7, 258 CID
35" BFG MT's on 15x10 Centerlines
4.56 D30-D44 SOA
D300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn 8000i w/dual batteries
LockRight F&R
"travis" <travist34removethis@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:prmvov486hfeo59onqn0rbu86pfl7lgmir@4ax.com...
> I'm just reading and trying to learn here and came up with a couple of
> questions. I read that lift blocks pretty much suck and I can see why
> because of how they'd multiply axle-wrap. I'm _not_ going to use lift
> blocks but I am wondering why I keep hearing "If you *do* use them
> then just be sure to NEVER use them on the front axle." Why is that?
> Also I was just thinking and it seems to me like if you put something
> like a 1" or so lift block between the frame and the spring perches,
> that you'd get a corresponding amount of lift without increasing the
> multiplier for axle wrap. Know what I mean? It just seems like you'd
> be sort of doing the same thing you're doing with a body lift, but on
> the underside of the frame rather than on the top side of the frame.
> What would be bad/wrong with doing that? Seems like that would be
> easier than doing the body lift since you could do one perch at a time
> rather than having to remove the whole body. The more I read, the
> more I'm thinking I don't want much of a lift at all, just enough to
> clear the tires I wind up with, and I'm not shy about fender trimming
> so I don't think I'm going to wind up lifting my Jeep (when I get it)
> much at all. If I got a CJ-5 and wanted to put 33" tires on it and
> the suspension was 100% stock, would fender-trimming alone be enough
> to clear those tires or would there be other interference spots? I'd
> want to put a MILD lift of some sort on it anyway, but I'm just
> wondering if in general the limiting factor on tire size is fender
> clearance. (I mean other than the extra stress put on the driveline.)
> Can you guys please comment on the questions I posed above? Thank
> you.
>
>
> --
> Travis
> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
> :wq!
as body lift, you don't actually remove the body... simply unbolt existing
mounts and raise the body enough for each new spacer. You are correct about
lifting only enough to clear the tires, especially on the early narrow track
CJ's. Which brings me to another suggestion... you might want to look for
82 or newer CJ's to get the wide track axles. You will need some kind of
lift to clear 33's, you might get away with 2" body. Personally, I would
avoid trimming the body for aesthetic reasons.
To get more lift on a CJ, either use lift springs or do a spring over axle
(SOA) conversion. Don't do body lift over 3", also illegal in most states
and causes shift, clutch, and steering linkage problems. Also stay away
from extended shackles.
When you do get your Jeep, you will probably be the best prepared new owner
ever! Keep it up!
--
JimG
80' CJ-7, 258 CID
35" BFG MT's on 15x10 Centerlines
4.56 D30-D44 SOA
D300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn 8000i w/dual batteries
LockRight F&R
"travis" <travist34removethis@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:prmvov486hfeo59onqn0rbu86pfl7lgmir@4ax.com...
> I'm just reading and trying to learn here and came up with a couple of
> questions. I read that lift blocks pretty much suck and I can see why
> because of how they'd multiply axle-wrap. I'm _not_ going to use lift
> blocks but I am wondering why I keep hearing "If you *do* use them
> then just be sure to NEVER use them on the front axle." Why is that?
> Also I was just thinking and it seems to me like if you put something
> like a 1" or so lift block between the frame and the spring perches,
> that you'd get a corresponding amount of lift without increasing the
> multiplier for axle wrap. Know what I mean? It just seems like you'd
> be sort of doing the same thing you're doing with a body lift, but on
> the underside of the frame rather than on the top side of the frame.
> What would be bad/wrong with doing that? Seems like that would be
> easier than doing the body lift since you could do one perch at a time
> rather than having to remove the whole body. The more I read, the
> more I'm thinking I don't want much of a lift at all, just enough to
> clear the tires I wind up with, and I'm not shy about fender trimming
> so I don't think I'm going to wind up lifting my Jeep (when I get it)
> much at all. If I got a CJ-5 and wanted to put 33" tires on it and
> the suspension was 100% stock, would fender-trimming alone be enough
> to clear those tires or would there be other interference spots? I'd
> want to put a MILD lift of some sort on it anyway, but I'm just
> wondering if in general the limiting factor on tire size is fender
> clearance. (I mean other than the extra stress put on the driveline.)
> Can you guys please comment on the questions I posed above? Thank
> you.
>
>
> --
> Travis
> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
> :wq!
10-17-2003 | 10:02 AM
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Lifting leaf-spring suspension
Spring lift blocks are illegal in most states and dangerous in all. As far
as body lift, you don't actually remove the body... simply unbolt existing
mounts and raise the body enough for each new spacer. You are correct about
lifting only enough to clear the tires, especially on the early narrow track
CJ's. Which brings me to another suggestion... you might want to look for
82 or newer CJ's to get the wide track axles. You will need some kind of
lift to clear 33's, you might get away with 2" body. Personally, I would
avoid trimming the body for aesthetic reasons.
To get more lift on a CJ, either use lift springs or do a spring over axle
(SOA) conversion. Don't do body lift over 3", also illegal in most states
and causes shift, clutch, and steering linkage problems. Also stay away
from extended shackles.
When you do get your Jeep, you will probably be the best prepared new owner
ever! Keep it up!
--
JimG
80' CJ-7, 258 CID
35" BFG MT's on 15x10 Centerlines
4.56 D30-D44 SOA
D300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn 8000i w/dual batteries
LockRight F&R
"travis" <travist34removethis@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:prmvov486hfeo59onqn0rbu86pfl7lgmir@4ax.com...
> I'm just reading and trying to learn here and came up with a couple of
> questions. I read that lift blocks pretty much suck and I can see why
> because of how they'd multiply axle-wrap. I'm _not_ going to use lift
> blocks but I am wondering why I keep hearing "If you *do* use them
> then just be sure to NEVER use them on the front axle." Why is that?
> Also I was just thinking and it seems to me like if you put something
> like a 1" or so lift block between the frame and the spring perches,
> that you'd get a corresponding amount of lift without increasing the
> multiplier for axle wrap. Know what I mean? It just seems like you'd
> be sort of doing the same thing you're doing with a body lift, but on
> the underside of the frame rather than on the top side of the frame.
> What would be bad/wrong with doing that? Seems like that would be
> easier than doing the body lift since you could do one perch at a time
> rather than having to remove the whole body. The more I read, the
> more I'm thinking I don't want much of a lift at all, just enough to
> clear the tires I wind up with, and I'm not shy about fender trimming
> so I don't think I'm going to wind up lifting my Jeep (when I get it)
> much at all. If I got a CJ-5 and wanted to put 33" tires on it and
> the suspension was 100% stock, would fender-trimming alone be enough
> to clear those tires or would there be other interference spots? I'd
> want to put a MILD lift of some sort on it anyway, but I'm just
> wondering if in general the limiting factor on tire size is fender
> clearance. (I mean other than the extra stress put on the driveline.)
> Can you guys please comment on the questions I posed above? Thank
> you.
>
>
> --
> Travis
> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
> :wq!
as body lift, you don't actually remove the body... simply unbolt existing
mounts and raise the body enough for each new spacer. You are correct about
lifting only enough to clear the tires, especially on the early narrow track
CJ's. Which brings me to another suggestion... you might want to look for
82 or newer CJ's to get the wide track axles. You will need some kind of
lift to clear 33's, you might get away with 2" body. Personally, I would
avoid trimming the body for aesthetic reasons.
To get more lift on a CJ, either use lift springs or do a spring over axle
(SOA) conversion. Don't do body lift over 3", also illegal in most states
and causes shift, clutch, and steering linkage problems. Also stay away
from extended shackles.
When you do get your Jeep, you will probably be the best prepared new owner
ever! Keep it up!
--
JimG
80' CJ-7, 258 CID
35" BFG MT's on 15x10 Centerlines
4.56 D30-D44 SOA
D300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn 8000i w/dual batteries
LockRight F&R
"travis" <travist34removethis@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:prmvov486hfeo59onqn0rbu86pfl7lgmir@4ax.com...
> I'm just reading and trying to learn here and came up with a couple of
> questions. I read that lift blocks pretty much suck and I can see why
> because of how they'd multiply axle-wrap. I'm _not_ going to use lift
> blocks but I am wondering why I keep hearing "If you *do* use them
> then just be sure to NEVER use them on the front axle." Why is that?
> Also I was just thinking and it seems to me like if you put something
> like a 1" or so lift block between the frame and the spring perches,
> that you'd get a corresponding amount of lift without increasing the
> multiplier for axle wrap. Know what I mean? It just seems like you'd
> be sort of doing the same thing you're doing with a body lift, but on
> the underside of the frame rather than on the top side of the frame.
> What would be bad/wrong with doing that? Seems like that would be
> easier than doing the body lift since you could do one perch at a time
> rather than having to remove the whole body. The more I read, the
> more I'm thinking I don't want much of a lift at all, just enough to
> clear the tires I wind up with, and I'm not shy about fender trimming
> so I don't think I'm going to wind up lifting my Jeep (when I get it)
> much at all. If I got a CJ-5 and wanted to put 33" tires on it and
> the suspension was 100% stock, would fender-trimming alone be enough
> to clear those tires or would there be other interference spots? I'd
> want to put a MILD lift of some sort on it anyway, but I'm just
> wondering if in general the limiting factor on tire size is fender
> clearance. (I mean other than the extra stress put on the driveline.)
> Can you guys please comment on the questions I posed above? Thank
> you.
>
>
> --
> Travis
> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
> :wq!
10-17-2003 | 10:02 AM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Lifting leaf-spring suspension
Spring lift blocks are illegal in most states and dangerous in all. As far
as body lift, you don't actually remove the body... simply unbolt existing
mounts and raise the body enough for each new spacer. You are correct about
lifting only enough to clear the tires, especially on the early narrow track
CJ's. Which brings me to another suggestion... you might want to look for
82 or newer CJ's to get the wide track axles. You will need some kind of
lift to clear 33's, you might get away with 2" body. Personally, I would
avoid trimming the body for aesthetic reasons.
To get more lift on a CJ, either use lift springs or do a spring over axle
(SOA) conversion. Don't do body lift over 3", also illegal in most states
and causes shift, clutch, and steering linkage problems. Also stay away
from extended shackles.
When you do get your Jeep, you will probably be the best prepared new owner
ever! Keep it up!
--
JimG
80' CJ-7, 258 CID
35" BFG MT's on 15x10 Centerlines
4.56 D30-D44 SOA
D300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn 8000i w/dual batteries
LockRight F&R
"travis" <travist34removethis@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:prmvov486hfeo59onqn0rbu86pfl7lgmir@4ax.com...
> I'm just reading and trying to learn here and came up with a couple of
> questions. I read that lift blocks pretty much suck and I can see why
> because of how they'd multiply axle-wrap. I'm _not_ going to use lift
> blocks but I am wondering why I keep hearing "If you *do* use them
> then just be sure to NEVER use them on the front axle." Why is that?
> Also I was just thinking and it seems to me like if you put something
> like a 1" or so lift block between the frame and the spring perches,
> that you'd get a corresponding amount of lift without increasing the
> multiplier for axle wrap. Know what I mean? It just seems like you'd
> be sort of doing the same thing you're doing with a body lift, but on
> the underside of the frame rather than on the top side of the frame.
> What would be bad/wrong with doing that? Seems like that would be
> easier than doing the body lift since you could do one perch at a time
> rather than having to remove the whole body. The more I read, the
> more I'm thinking I don't want much of a lift at all, just enough to
> clear the tires I wind up with, and I'm not shy about fender trimming
> so I don't think I'm going to wind up lifting my Jeep (when I get it)
> much at all. If I got a CJ-5 and wanted to put 33" tires on it and
> the suspension was 100% stock, would fender-trimming alone be enough
> to clear those tires or would there be other interference spots? I'd
> want to put a MILD lift of some sort on it anyway, but I'm just
> wondering if in general the limiting factor on tire size is fender
> clearance. (I mean other than the extra stress put on the driveline.)
> Can you guys please comment on the questions I posed above? Thank
> you.
>
>
> --
> Travis
> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
> :wq!
as body lift, you don't actually remove the body... simply unbolt existing
mounts and raise the body enough for each new spacer. You are correct about
lifting only enough to clear the tires, especially on the early narrow track
CJ's. Which brings me to another suggestion... you might want to look for
82 or newer CJ's to get the wide track axles. You will need some kind of
lift to clear 33's, you might get away with 2" body. Personally, I would
avoid trimming the body for aesthetic reasons.
To get more lift on a CJ, either use lift springs or do a spring over axle
(SOA) conversion. Don't do body lift over 3", also illegal in most states
and causes shift, clutch, and steering linkage problems. Also stay away
from extended shackles.
When you do get your Jeep, you will probably be the best prepared new owner
ever! Keep it up!
--
JimG
80' CJ-7, 258 CID
35" BFG MT's on 15x10 Centerlines
4.56 D30-D44 SOA
D300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn 8000i w/dual batteries
LockRight F&R
"travis" <travist34removethis@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:prmvov486hfeo59onqn0rbu86pfl7lgmir@4ax.com...
> I'm just reading and trying to learn here and came up with a couple of
> questions. I read that lift blocks pretty much suck and I can see why
> because of how they'd multiply axle-wrap. I'm _not_ going to use lift
> blocks but I am wondering why I keep hearing "If you *do* use them
> then just be sure to NEVER use them on the front axle." Why is that?
> Also I was just thinking and it seems to me like if you put something
> like a 1" or so lift block between the frame and the spring perches,
> that you'd get a corresponding amount of lift without increasing the
> multiplier for axle wrap. Know what I mean? It just seems like you'd
> be sort of doing the same thing you're doing with a body lift, but on
> the underside of the frame rather than on the top side of the frame.
> What would be bad/wrong with doing that? Seems like that would be
> easier than doing the body lift since you could do one perch at a time
> rather than having to remove the whole body. The more I read, the
> more I'm thinking I don't want much of a lift at all, just enough to
> clear the tires I wind up with, and I'm not shy about fender trimming
> so I don't think I'm going to wind up lifting my Jeep (when I get it)
> much at all. If I got a CJ-5 and wanted to put 33" tires on it and
> the suspension was 100% stock, would fender-trimming alone be enough
> to clear those tires or would there be other interference spots? I'd
> want to put a MILD lift of some sort on it anyway, but I'm just
> wondering if in general the limiting factor on tire size is fender
> clearance. (I mean other than the extra stress put on the driveline.)
> Can you guys please comment on the questions I posed above? Thank
> you.
>
>
> --
> Travis
> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
> :wq!
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