Installing a Painless Wiring Kit for ' 83 CJ-7
05-06-2004 | 08:09 AM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Installing a Painless Wiring Kit for ' 83 CJ-7
From the multiple cracked wires under my hood, it is time to replace the
wires for my '83 CJ-7, 258. I am no electrician but I can follow a map and
in my younger days loved to install stereos, equalizers, amplifiers and
speakers. I could use some feedback on the level of difficulty associated
with installing the kit. Is it just going to be a time consuming meticulous
process to follow each wire from the fuse block, etc.
Also, I believe the Ignition Control Module is mounted under the dash and
the wires come through the firewall. Is the bundle of wires also included
in the kit?
Lastly, due to an oil leak and some nasty looking spark plugs ( oil fouled)
I was considering having the engine rebuilt or even upgrading to a 304.
Question is which situation is best: 1.) do I install painless wires then
pull motor, 2.) pull motor, put back in then install wires, or 3.) pull
motor, install wires with motor out, then put motor back in?
Any and all feedback is needed and appreciated.
Thanks,
Dilla
wires for my '83 CJ-7, 258. I am no electrician but I can follow a map and
in my younger days loved to install stereos, equalizers, amplifiers and
speakers. I could use some feedback on the level of difficulty associated
with installing the kit. Is it just going to be a time consuming meticulous
process to follow each wire from the fuse block, etc.
Also, I believe the Ignition Control Module is mounted under the dash and
the wires come through the firewall. Is the bundle of wires also included
in the kit?
Lastly, due to an oil leak and some nasty looking spark plugs ( oil fouled)
I was considering having the engine rebuilt or even upgrading to a 304.
Question is which situation is best: 1.) do I install painless wires then
pull motor, 2.) pull motor, put back in then install wires, or 3.) pull
motor, install wires with motor out, then put motor back in?
Any and all feedback is needed and appreciated.
Thanks,
Dilla
05-06-2004 | 10:57 AM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Installing a Painless Wiring Kit for ' 83 CJ-7
I have been told the painless wiring is as the name implies.
The $20.00 Haynes manual has a perfect wiring schematic for the CJ's.
The CJ harness is in modules that terminate with plugs at the fuse
block. The engine is one, the front lights a second, the dash a 3rd and
the tub.
That unit under the dash is a Ford emissions computer and is a piece of
garbage if you change 'anything' on or about the engine. Killing that
is called the 'Nutter' bypass after the gent who did the write-up. That
adds a fast 25% seat of the pants boost in power and mileage.
The ignition module in located on the fender 'waaay' down under the
washer bottle.
As far as the order of things, I think I would do the wiring and a tune
up first, then if needed the engine.
Most folks don't realize you are 'supposed' to put a kit in the carb
every time you change the plugs. The kits cost about twenty bucks and
can do wonders for them.
Are you sure your plugs are oil fouled? How much oil do you burn? It
takes a 'lot' of oil to foul plugs. She would have to be a good blue
smoker. Fouled plugs are more likely a carb or tune up issue.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
dilla1986 wrote:
>
> From the multiple cracked wires under my hood, it is time to replace the
> wires for my '83 CJ-7, 258. I am no electrician but I can follow a map and
> in my younger days loved to install stereos, equalizers, amplifiers and
> speakers. I could use some feedback on the level of difficulty associated
> with installing the kit. Is it just going to be a time consuming meticulous
> process to follow each wire from the fuse block, etc.
>
> Also, I believe the Ignition Control Module is mounted under the dash and
> the wires come through the firewall. Is the bundle of wires also included
> in the kit?
>
> Lastly, due to an oil leak and some nasty looking spark plugs ( oil fouled)
> I was considering having the engine rebuilt or even upgrading to a 304.
> Question is which situation is best: 1.) do I install painless wires then
> pull motor, 2.) pull motor, put back in then install wires, or 3.) pull
> motor, install wires with motor out, then put motor back in?
>
> Any and all feedback is needed and appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Dilla
The $20.00 Haynes manual has a perfect wiring schematic for the CJ's.
The CJ harness is in modules that terminate with plugs at the fuse
block. The engine is one, the front lights a second, the dash a 3rd and
the tub.
That unit under the dash is a Ford emissions computer and is a piece of
garbage if you change 'anything' on or about the engine. Killing that
is called the 'Nutter' bypass after the gent who did the write-up. That
adds a fast 25% seat of the pants boost in power and mileage.
The ignition module in located on the fender 'waaay' down under the
washer bottle.
As far as the order of things, I think I would do the wiring and a tune
up first, then if needed the engine.
Most folks don't realize you are 'supposed' to put a kit in the carb
every time you change the plugs. The kits cost about twenty bucks and
can do wonders for them.
Are you sure your plugs are oil fouled? How much oil do you burn? It
takes a 'lot' of oil to foul plugs. She would have to be a good blue
smoker. Fouled plugs are more likely a carb or tune up issue.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
dilla1986 wrote:
>
> From the multiple cracked wires under my hood, it is time to replace the
> wires for my '83 CJ-7, 258. I am no electrician but I can follow a map and
> in my younger days loved to install stereos, equalizers, amplifiers and
> speakers. I could use some feedback on the level of difficulty associated
> with installing the kit. Is it just going to be a time consuming meticulous
> process to follow each wire from the fuse block, etc.
>
> Also, I believe the Ignition Control Module is mounted under the dash and
> the wires come through the firewall. Is the bundle of wires also included
> in the kit?
>
> Lastly, due to an oil leak and some nasty looking spark plugs ( oil fouled)
> I was considering having the engine rebuilt or even upgrading to a 304.
> Question is which situation is best: 1.) do I install painless wires then
> pull motor, 2.) pull motor, put back in then install wires, or 3.) pull
> motor, install wires with motor out, then put motor back in?
>
> Any and all feedback is needed and appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Dilla
05-06-2004 | 10:57 AM
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Installing a Painless Wiring Kit for ' 83 CJ-7
I have been told the painless wiring is as the name implies.
The $20.00 Haynes manual has a perfect wiring schematic for the CJ's.
The CJ harness is in modules that terminate with plugs at the fuse
block. The engine is one, the front lights a second, the dash a 3rd and
the tub.
That unit under the dash is a Ford emissions computer and is a piece of
garbage if you change 'anything' on or about the engine. Killing that
is called the 'Nutter' bypass after the gent who did the write-up. That
adds a fast 25% seat of the pants boost in power and mileage.
The ignition module in located on the fender 'waaay' down under the
washer bottle.
As far as the order of things, I think I would do the wiring and a tune
up first, then if needed the engine.
Most folks don't realize you are 'supposed' to put a kit in the carb
every time you change the plugs. The kits cost about twenty bucks and
can do wonders for them.
Are you sure your plugs are oil fouled? How much oil do you burn? It
takes a 'lot' of oil to foul plugs. She would have to be a good blue
smoker. Fouled plugs are more likely a carb or tune up issue.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
dilla1986 wrote:
>
> From the multiple cracked wires under my hood, it is time to replace the
> wires for my '83 CJ-7, 258. I am no electrician but I can follow a map and
> in my younger days loved to install stereos, equalizers, amplifiers and
> speakers. I could use some feedback on the level of difficulty associated
> with installing the kit. Is it just going to be a time consuming meticulous
> process to follow each wire from the fuse block, etc.
>
> Also, I believe the Ignition Control Module is mounted under the dash and
> the wires come through the firewall. Is the bundle of wires also included
> in the kit?
>
> Lastly, due to an oil leak and some nasty looking spark plugs ( oil fouled)
> I was considering having the engine rebuilt or even upgrading to a 304.
> Question is which situation is best: 1.) do I install painless wires then
> pull motor, 2.) pull motor, put back in then install wires, or 3.) pull
> motor, install wires with motor out, then put motor back in?
>
> Any and all feedback is needed and appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Dilla
The $20.00 Haynes manual has a perfect wiring schematic for the CJ's.
The CJ harness is in modules that terminate with plugs at the fuse
block. The engine is one, the front lights a second, the dash a 3rd and
the tub.
That unit under the dash is a Ford emissions computer and is a piece of
garbage if you change 'anything' on or about the engine. Killing that
is called the 'Nutter' bypass after the gent who did the write-up. That
adds a fast 25% seat of the pants boost in power and mileage.
The ignition module in located on the fender 'waaay' down under the
washer bottle.
As far as the order of things, I think I would do the wiring and a tune
up first, then if needed the engine.
Most folks don't realize you are 'supposed' to put a kit in the carb
every time you change the plugs. The kits cost about twenty bucks and
can do wonders for them.
Are you sure your plugs are oil fouled? How much oil do you burn? It
takes a 'lot' of oil to foul plugs. She would have to be a good blue
smoker. Fouled plugs are more likely a carb or tune up issue.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
dilla1986 wrote:
>
> From the multiple cracked wires under my hood, it is time to replace the
> wires for my '83 CJ-7, 258. I am no electrician but I can follow a map and
> in my younger days loved to install stereos, equalizers, amplifiers and
> speakers. I could use some feedback on the level of difficulty associated
> with installing the kit. Is it just going to be a time consuming meticulous
> process to follow each wire from the fuse block, etc.
>
> Also, I believe the Ignition Control Module is mounted under the dash and
> the wires come through the firewall. Is the bundle of wires also included
> in the kit?
>
> Lastly, due to an oil leak and some nasty looking spark plugs ( oil fouled)
> I was considering having the engine rebuilt or even upgrading to a 304.
> Question is which situation is best: 1.) do I install painless wires then
> pull motor, 2.) pull motor, put back in then install wires, or 3.) pull
> motor, install wires with motor out, then put motor back in?
>
> Any and all feedback is needed and appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Dilla
05-06-2004 | 10:57 AM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Installing a Painless Wiring Kit for ' 83 CJ-7
I have been told the painless wiring is as the name implies.
The $20.00 Haynes manual has a perfect wiring schematic for the CJ's.
The CJ harness is in modules that terminate with plugs at the fuse
block. The engine is one, the front lights a second, the dash a 3rd and
the tub.
That unit under the dash is a Ford emissions computer and is a piece of
garbage if you change 'anything' on or about the engine. Killing that
is called the 'Nutter' bypass after the gent who did the write-up. That
adds a fast 25% seat of the pants boost in power and mileage.
The ignition module in located on the fender 'waaay' down under the
washer bottle.
As far as the order of things, I think I would do the wiring and a tune
up first, then if needed the engine.
Most folks don't realize you are 'supposed' to put a kit in the carb
every time you change the plugs. The kits cost about twenty bucks and
can do wonders for them.
Are you sure your plugs are oil fouled? How much oil do you burn? It
takes a 'lot' of oil to foul plugs. She would have to be a good blue
smoker. Fouled plugs are more likely a carb or tune up issue.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
dilla1986 wrote:
>
> From the multiple cracked wires under my hood, it is time to replace the
> wires for my '83 CJ-7, 258. I am no electrician but I can follow a map and
> in my younger days loved to install stereos, equalizers, amplifiers and
> speakers. I could use some feedback on the level of difficulty associated
> with installing the kit. Is it just going to be a time consuming meticulous
> process to follow each wire from the fuse block, etc.
>
> Also, I believe the Ignition Control Module is mounted under the dash and
> the wires come through the firewall. Is the bundle of wires also included
> in the kit?
>
> Lastly, due to an oil leak and some nasty looking spark plugs ( oil fouled)
> I was considering having the engine rebuilt or even upgrading to a 304.
> Question is which situation is best: 1.) do I install painless wires then
> pull motor, 2.) pull motor, put back in then install wires, or 3.) pull
> motor, install wires with motor out, then put motor back in?
>
> Any and all feedback is needed and appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Dilla
The $20.00 Haynes manual has a perfect wiring schematic for the CJ's.
The CJ harness is in modules that terminate with plugs at the fuse
block. The engine is one, the front lights a second, the dash a 3rd and
the tub.
That unit under the dash is a Ford emissions computer and is a piece of
garbage if you change 'anything' on or about the engine. Killing that
is called the 'Nutter' bypass after the gent who did the write-up. That
adds a fast 25% seat of the pants boost in power and mileage.
The ignition module in located on the fender 'waaay' down under the
washer bottle.
As far as the order of things, I think I would do the wiring and a tune
up first, then if needed the engine.
Most folks don't realize you are 'supposed' to put a kit in the carb
every time you change the plugs. The kits cost about twenty bucks and
can do wonders for them.
Are you sure your plugs are oil fouled? How much oil do you burn? It
takes a 'lot' of oil to foul plugs. She would have to be a good blue
smoker. Fouled plugs are more likely a carb or tune up issue.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
dilla1986 wrote:
>
> From the multiple cracked wires under my hood, it is time to replace the
> wires for my '83 CJ-7, 258. I am no electrician but I can follow a map and
> in my younger days loved to install stereos, equalizers, amplifiers and
> speakers. I could use some feedback on the level of difficulty associated
> with installing the kit. Is it just going to be a time consuming meticulous
> process to follow each wire from the fuse block, etc.
>
> Also, I believe the Ignition Control Module is mounted under the dash and
> the wires come through the firewall. Is the bundle of wires also included
> in the kit?
>
> Lastly, due to an oil leak and some nasty looking spark plugs ( oil fouled)
> I was considering having the engine rebuilt or even upgrading to a 304.
> Question is which situation is best: 1.) do I install painless wires then
> pull motor, 2.) pull motor, put back in then install wires, or 3.) pull
> motor, install wires with motor out, then put motor back in?
>
> Any and all feedback is needed and appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Dilla
05-06-2004 | 10:57 AM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Installing a Painless Wiring Kit for ' 83 CJ-7
I have been told the painless wiring is as the name implies.
The $20.00 Haynes manual has a perfect wiring schematic for the CJ's.
The CJ harness is in modules that terminate with plugs at the fuse
block. The engine is one, the front lights a second, the dash a 3rd and
the tub.
That unit under the dash is a Ford emissions computer and is a piece of
garbage if you change 'anything' on or about the engine. Killing that
is called the 'Nutter' bypass after the gent who did the write-up. That
adds a fast 25% seat of the pants boost in power and mileage.
The ignition module in located on the fender 'waaay' down under the
washer bottle.
As far as the order of things, I think I would do the wiring and a tune
up first, then if needed the engine.
Most folks don't realize you are 'supposed' to put a kit in the carb
every time you change the plugs. The kits cost about twenty bucks and
can do wonders for them.
Are you sure your plugs are oil fouled? How much oil do you burn? It
takes a 'lot' of oil to foul plugs. She would have to be a good blue
smoker. Fouled plugs are more likely a carb or tune up issue.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
dilla1986 wrote:
>
> From the multiple cracked wires under my hood, it is time to replace the
> wires for my '83 CJ-7, 258. I am no electrician but I can follow a map and
> in my younger days loved to install stereos, equalizers, amplifiers and
> speakers. I could use some feedback on the level of difficulty associated
> with installing the kit. Is it just going to be a time consuming meticulous
> process to follow each wire from the fuse block, etc.
>
> Also, I believe the Ignition Control Module is mounted under the dash and
> the wires come through the firewall. Is the bundle of wires also included
> in the kit?
>
> Lastly, due to an oil leak and some nasty looking spark plugs ( oil fouled)
> I was considering having the engine rebuilt or even upgrading to a 304.
> Question is which situation is best: 1.) do I install painless wires then
> pull motor, 2.) pull motor, put back in then install wires, or 3.) pull
> motor, install wires with motor out, then put motor back in?
>
> Any and all feedback is needed and appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Dilla
The $20.00 Haynes manual has a perfect wiring schematic for the CJ's.
The CJ harness is in modules that terminate with plugs at the fuse
block. The engine is one, the front lights a second, the dash a 3rd and
the tub.
That unit under the dash is a Ford emissions computer and is a piece of
garbage if you change 'anything' on or about the engine. Killing that
is called the 'Nutter' bypass after the gent who did the write-up. That
adds a fast 25% seat of the pants boost in power and mileage.
The ignition module in located on the fender 'waaay' down under the
washer bottle.
As far as the order of things, I think I would do the wiring and a tune
up first, then if needed the engine.
Most folks don't realize you are 'supposed' to put a kit in the carb
every time you change the plugs. The kits cost about twenty bucks and
can do wonders for them.
Are you sure your plugs are oil fouled? How much oil do you burn? It
takes a 'lot' of oil to foul plugs. She would have to be a good blue
smoker. Fouled plugs are more likely a carb or tune up issue.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
dilla1986 wrote:
>
> From the multiple cracked wires under my hood, it is time to replace the
> wires for my '83 CJ-7, 258. I am no electrician but I can follow a map and
> in my younger days loved to install stereos, equalizers, amplifiers and
> speakers. I could use some feedback on the level of difficulty associated
> with installing the kit. Is it just going to be a time consuming meticulous
> process to follow each wire from the fuse block, etc.
>
> Also, I believe the Ignition Control Module is mounted under the dash and
> the wires come through the firewall. Is the bundle of wires also included
> in the kit?
>
> Lastly, due to an oil leak and some nasty looking spark plugs ( oil fouled)
> I was considering having the engine rebuilt or even upgrading to a 304.
> Question is which situation is best: 1.) do I install painless wires then
> pull motor, 2.) pull motor, put back in then install wires, or 3.) pull
> motor, install wires with motor out, then put motor back in?
>
> Any and all feedback is needed and appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Dilla
05-06-2004 | 11:19 AM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Installing a Painless Wiring Kit for ' 83 CJ-7
I left you a detailed response over on the other forum. Last year I
installed one of the Painless kits on my '76 CJ5 restoration project and
consider it one of the best upgrades I made on the Jeep. Well worth the
cost. FYI, it took me two days work to install, however bear in mind that on
al, the terminal, rather than just cruimp them on like Painless recommended,
I used heat shrink and solder. That may have doubked the amount of time it
took to install.
The instructions are very good, and each wire is labeed and numbered, plus
color coded to the factory diagram. It was a fabulously high quality
product, far better than the original it replaced.
"dilla1986" <dilla1986@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:Y1pmc.7815$DZ4.1192@newssvr23.news.prodigy.co m...
> From the multiple cracked wires under my hood, it is time to replace the
> wires for my '83 CJ-7, 258. I am no electrician but I can follow a map
and
> in my younger days loved to install stereos, equalizers, amplifiers and
> speakers. I could use some feedback on the level of difficulty associated
> with installing the kit. Is it just going to be a time consuming
meticulous
> process to follow each wire from the fuse block, etc.
>
> Also, I believe the Ignition Control Module is mounted under the dash and
> the wires come through the firewall. Is the bundle of wires also included
> in the kit?
>
> Lastly, due to an oil leak and some nasty looking spark plugs ( oil
fouled)
> I was considering having the engine rebuilt or even upgrading to a 304.
> Question is which situation is best: 1.) do I install painless wires then
> pull motor, 2.) pull motor, put back in then install wires, or 3.) pull
> motor, install wires with motor out, then put motor back in?
>
> Any and all feedback is needed and appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Dilla
>
>
installed one of the Painless kits on my '76 CJ5 restoration project and
consider it one of the best upgrades I made on the Jeep. Well worth the
cost. FYI, it took me two days work to install, however bear in mind that on
al, the terminal, rather than just cruimp them on like Painless recommended,
I used heat shrink and solder. That may have doubked the amount of time it
took to install.
The instructions are very good, and each wire is labeed and numbered, plus
color coded to the factory diagram. It was a fabulously high quality
product, far better than the original it replaced.
"dilla1986" <dilla1986@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:Y1pmc.7815$DZ4.1192@newssvr23.news.prodigy.co m...
> From the multiple cracked wires under my hood, it is time to replace the
> wires for my '83 CJ-7, 258. I am no electrician but I can follow a map
and
> in my younger days loved to install stereos, equalizers, amplifiers and
> speakers. I could use some feedback on the level of difficulty associated
> with installing the kit. Is it just going to be a time consuming
meticulous
> process to follow each wire from the fuse block, etc.
>
> Also, I believe the Ignition Control Module is mounted under the dash and
> the wires come through the firewall. Is the bundle of wires also included
> in the kit?
>
> Lastly, due to an oil leak and some nasty looking spark plugs ( oil
fouled)
> I was considering having the engine rebuilt or even upgrading to a 304.
> Question is which situation is best: 1.) do I install painless wires then
> pull motor, 2.) pull motor, put back in then install wires, or 3.) pull
> motor, install wires with motor out, then put motor back in?
>
> Any and all feedback is needed and appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Dilla
>
>
05-06-2004 | 11:19 AM
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Installing a Painless Wiring Kit for ' 83 CJ-7
I left you a detailed response over on the other forum. Last year I
installed one of the Painless kits on my '76 CJ5 restoration project and
consider it one of the best upgrades I made on the Jeep. Well worth the
cost. FYI, it took me two days work to install, however bear in mind that on
al, the terminal, rather than just cruimp them on like Painless recommended,
I used heat shrink and solder. That may have doubked the amount of time it
took to install.
The instructions are very good, and each wire is labeed and numbered, plus
color coded to the factory diagram. It was a fabulously high quality
product, far better than the original it replaced.
"dilla1986" <dilla1986@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:Y1pmc.7815$DZ4.1192@newssvr23.news.prodigy.co m...
> From the multiple cracked wires under my hood, it is time to replace the
> wires for my '83 CJ-7, 258. I am no electrician but I can follow a map
and
> in my younger days loved to install stereos, equalizers, amplifiers and
> speakers. I could use some feedback on the level of difficulty associated
> with installing the kit. Is it just going to be a time consuming
meticulous
> process to follow each wire from the fuse block, etc.
>
> Also, I believe the Ignition Control Module is mounted under the dash and
> the wires come through the firewall. Is the bundle of wires also included
> in the kit?
>
> Lastly, due to an oil leak and some nasty looking spark plugs ( oil
fouled)
> I was considering having the engine rebuilt or even upgrading to a 304.
> Question is which situation is best: 1.) do I install painless wires then
> pull motor, 2.) pull motor, put back in then install wires, or 3.) pull
> motor, install wires with motor out, then put motor back in?
>
> Any and all feedback is needed and appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Dilla
>
>
installed one of the Painless kits on my '76 CJ5 restoration project and
consider it one of the best upgrades I made on the Jeep. Well worth the
cost. FYI, it took me two days work to install, however bear in mind that on
al, the terminal, rather than just cruimp them on like Painless recommended,
I used heat shrink and solder. That may have doubked the amount of time it
took to install.
The instructions are very good, and each wire is labeed and numbered, plus
color coded to the factory diagram. It was a fabulously high quality
product, far better than the original it replaced.
"dilla1986" <dilla1986@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:Y1pmc.7815$DZ4.1192@newssvr23.news.prodigy.co m...
> From the multiple cracked wires under my hood, it is time to replace the
> wires for my '83 CJ-7, 258. I am no electrician but I can follow a map
and
> in my younger days loved to install stereos, equalizers, amplifiers and
> speakers. I could use some feedback on the level of difficulty associated
> with installing the kit. Is it just going to be a time consuming
meticulous
> process to follow each wire from the fuse block, etc.
>
> Also, I believe the Ignition Control Module is mounted under the dash and
> the wires come through the firewall. Is the bundle of wires also included
> in the kit?
>
> Lastly, due to an oil leak and some nasty looking spark plugs ( oil
fouled)
> I was considering having the engine rebuilt or even upgrading to a 304.
> Question is which situation is best: 1.) do I install painless wires then
> pull motor, 2.) pull motor, put back in then install wires, or 3.) pull
> motor, install wires with motor out, then put motor back in?
>
> Any and all feedback is needed and appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Dilla
>
>
05-06-2004 | 11:19 AM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Installing a Painless Wiring Kit for ' 83 CJ-7
I left you a detailed response over on the other forum. Last year I
installed one of the Painless kits on my '76 CJ5 restoration project and
consider it one of the best upgrades I made on the Jeep. Well worth the
cost. FYI, it took me two days work to install, however bear in mind that on
al, the terminal, rather than just cruimp them on like Painless recommended,
I used heat shrink and solder. That may have doubked the amount of time it
took to install.
The instructions are very good, and each wire is labeed and numbered, plus
color coded to the factory diagram. It was a fabulously high quality
product, far better than the original it replaced.
"dilla1986" <dilla1986@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:Y1pmc.7815$DZ4.1192@newssvr23.news.prodigy.co m...
> From the multiple cracked wires under my hood, it is time to replace the
> wires for my '83 CJ-7, 258. I am no electrician but I can follow a map
and
> in my younger days loved to install stereos, equalizers, amplifiers and
> speakers. I could use some feedback on the level of difficulty associated
> with installing the kit. Is it just going to be a time consuming
meticulous
> process to follow each wire from the fuse block, etc.
>
> Also, I believe the Ignition Control Module is mounted under the dash and
> the wires come through the firewall. Is the bundle of wires also included
> in the kit?
>
> Lastly, due to an oil leak and some nasty looking spark plugs ( oil
fouled)
> I was considering having the engine rebuilt or even upgrading to a 304.
> Question is which situation is best: 1.) do I install painless wires then
> pull motor, 2.) pull motor, put back in then install wires, or 3.) pull
> motor, install wires with motor out, then put motor back in?
>
> Any and all feedback is needed and appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Dilla
>
>
installed one of the Painless kits on my '76 CJ5 restoration project and
consider it one of the best upgrades I made on the Jeep. Well worth the
cost. FYI, it took me two days work to install, however bear in mind that on
al, the terminal, rather than just cruimp them on like Painless recommended,
I used heat shrink and solder. That may have doubked the amount of time it
took to install.
The instructions are very good, and each wire is labeed and numbered, plus
color coded to the factory diagram. It was a fabulously high quality
product, far better than the original it replaced.
"dilla1986" <dilla1986@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:Y1pmc.7815$DZ4.1192@newssvr23.news.prodigy.co m...
> From the multiple cracked wires under my hood, it is time to replace the
> wires for my '83 CJ-7, 258. I am no electrician but I can follow a map
and
> in my younger days loved to install stereos, equalizers, amplifiers and
> speakers. I could use some feedback on the level of difficulty associated
> with installing the kit. Is it just going to be a time consuming
meticulous
> process to follow each wire from the fuse block, etc.
>
> Also, I believe the Ignition Control Module is mounted under the dash and
> the wires come through the firewall. Is the bundle of wires also included
> in the kit?
>
> Lastly, due to an oil leak and some nasty looking spark plugs ( oil
fouled)
> I was considering having the engine rebuilt or even upgrading to a 304.
> Question is which situation is best: 1.) do I install painless wires then
> pull motor, 2.) pull motor, put back in then install wires, or 3.) pull
> motor, install wires with motor out, then put motor back in?
>
> Any and all feedback is needed and appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Dilla
>
>
05-06-2004 | 11:19 AM
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Installing a Painless Wiring Kit for ' 83 CJ-7
I left you a detailed response over on the other forum. Last year I
installed one of the Painless kits on my '76 CJ5 restoration project and
consider it one of the best upgrades I made on the Jeep. Well worth the
cost. FYI, it took me two days work to install, however bear in mind that on
al, the terminal, rather than just cruimp them on like Painless recommended,
I used heat shrink and solder. That may have doubked the amount of time it
took to install.
The instructions are very good, and each wire is labeed and numbered, plus
color coded to the factory diagram. It was a fabulously high quality
product, far better than the original it replaced.
"dilla1986" <dilla1986@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:Y1pmc.7815$DZ4.1192@newssvr23.news.prodigy.co m...
> From the multiple cracked wires under my hood, it is time to replace the
> wires for my '83 CJ-7, 258. I am no electrician but I can follow a map
and
> in my younger days loved to install stereos, equalizers, amplifiers and
> speakers. I could use some feedback on the level of difficulty associated
> with installing the kit. Is it just going to be a time consuming
meticulous
> process to follow each wire from the fuse block, etc.
>
> Also, I believe the Ignition Control Module is mounted under the dash and
> the wires come through the firewall. Is the bundle of wires also included
> in the kit?
>
> Lastly, due to an oil leak and some nasty looking spark plugs ( oil
fouled)
> I was considering having the engine rebuilt or even upgrading to a 304.
> Question is which situation is best: 1.) do I install painless wires then
> pull motor, 2.) pull motor, put back in then install wires, or 3.) pull
> motor, install wires with motor out, then put motor back in?
>
> Any and all feedback is needed and appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Dilla
>
>
installed one of the Painless kits on my '76 CJ5 restoration project and
consider it one of the best upgrades I made on the Jeep. Well worth the
cost. FYI, it took me two days work to install, however bear in mind that on
al, the terminal, rather than just cruimp them on like Painless recommended,
I used heat shrink and solder. That may have doubked the amount of time it
took to install.
The instructions are very good, and each wire is labeed and numbered, plus
color coded to the factory diagram. It was a fabulously high quality
product, far better than the original it replaced.
"dilla1986" <dilla1986@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:Y1pmc.7815$DZ4.1192@newssvr23.news.prodigy.co m...
> From the multiple cracked wires under my hood, it is time to replace the
> wires for my '83 CJ-7, 258. I am no electrician but I can follow a map
and
> in my younger days loved to install stereos, equalizers, amplifiers and
> speakers. I could use some feedback on the level of difficulty associated
> with installing the kit. Is it just going to be a time consuming
meticulous
> process to follow each wire from the fuse block, etc.
>
> Also, I believe the Ignition Control Module is mounted under the dash and
> the wires come through the firewall. Is the bundle of wires also included
> in the kit?
>
> Lastly, due to an oil leak and some nasty looking spark plugs ( oil
fouled)
> I was considering having the engine rebuilt or even upgrading to a 304.
> Question is which situation is best: 1.) do I install painless wires then
> pull motor, 2.) pull motor, put back in then install wires, or 3.) pull
> motor, install wires with motor out, then put motor back in?
>
> Any and all feedback is needed and appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Dilla
>
>
05-06-2004 | 12:34 PM
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Installing a Painless Wiring Kit for ' 83 CJ-7
In <Y1pmc.7815$DZ4.1192@newssvr23.news.prodigy.com> dilla1986 wrote:
> From the multiple cracked wires under my hood, it is time to replace
> the wires for my '83 CJ-7, 258. I am no electrician but I can follow
> a map and in my younger days loved to install stereos, equalizers,
> amplifiers and speakers. I could use some feedback on the level of
> difficulty associated with installing the kit. Is it just going to be
> a time consuming meticulous process to follow each wire from the fuse
> block, etc.
I had to rewire my pickup truck and the painless kit saved me no end of
headaches. Highly Recommended!
----------------------------------------------------
Del Rawlins- del@_kills_spammers_rawlinsbrothers.org
Remove _kills_spammers_ to reply via email.
Unofficial Bearhawk FAQ website:
http://www.rawlinsbrothers.org/bhfaq/
> From the multiple cracked wires under my hood, it is time to replace
> the wires for my '83 CJ-7, 258. I am no electrician but I can follow
> a map and in my younger days loved to install stereos, equalizers,
> amplifiers and speakers. I could use some feedback on the level of
> difficulty associated with installing the kit. Is it just going to be
> a time consuming meticulous process to follow each wire from the fuse
> block, etc.
I had to rewire my pickup truck and the painless kit saved me no end of
headaches. Highly Recommended!
----------------------------------------------------
Del Rawlins- del@_kills_spammers_rawlinsbrothers.org
Remove _kills_spammers_ to reply via email.
Unofficial Bearhawk FAQ website:
http://www.rawlinsbrothers.org/bhfaq/