Hi Rich,
I find the easiest way is to clamp two yard stick like sticks
together so you my flip it back and forth zeroing in on the roundest
bulge of the tires front and rear, and rolling the car back and forth
too to make sure the tie-rod ends are settled in.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Richard Harris wrote:
>
> Nice Bill!
> I've been thinking of checking/adjusting my toe-in since adding 33's and a
> lift. Just noticed yesterday that my tie rod is looser than it should be, so
> I'll replace the ends and adjust accordingly. I too think having a little
> more toe-in than a little less is better for big tires. I'm thinking they
> will track better. Thanks and I'll post the results.
> Rich

 

Hi Rich,
I find the easiest way is to clamp two yard stick like sticks
together so you my flip it back and forth zeroing in on the roundest
bulge of the tires front and rear, and rolling the car back and forth
too to make sure the tie-rod ends are settled in.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Richard Harris wrote:
>
> Nice Bill!
> I've been thinking of checking/adjusting my toe-in since adding 33's and a
> lift. Just noticed yesterday that my tie rod is looser than it should be, so
> I'll replace the ends and adjust accordingly. I too think having a little
> more toe-in than a little less is better for big tires. I'm thinking they
> will track better. Thanks and I'll post the results.
> Rich

 

Hi Rich,
I find the easiest way is to clamp two yard stick like sticks
together so you my flip it back and forth zeroing in on the roundest
bulge of the tires front and rear, and rolling the car back and forth
too to make sure the tie-rod ends are settled in.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Richard Harris wrote:
>
> Nice Bill!
> I've been thinking of checking/adjusting my toe-in since adding 33's and a
> lift. Just noticed yesterday that my tie rod is looser than it should be, so
> I'll replace the ends and adjust accordingly. I too think having a little
> more toe-in than a little less is better for big tires. I'm thinking they
> will track better. Thanks and I'll post the results.
> Rich

 

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40B78F68.B83F5F5A@sympatico.ca...
> If that is the toe in from the book, then that is measured from the axle
> center as the zero to the front correct?
>
> If so, when doing the measuring using the front and rear of the tire, it
> would be 1/8" less across the front of the tire.
>
> That is how I thought it was, I could be mistaken.
>

Actually, I think the best bet is to make your measurements at the rims.
That way, unless your rims are bent you'll be setting the proper toe in for
the wheels and you have a nice hard, flat surface to measure from which is
always the same (7.5 inches from wheel centerpoint for 15" wheels). I would
be suspect that either the tire tread pattern or sidewalls could vary too
much for the degree of accuracy you are trying to measure.

Here's a slick way that you can measure toe-in:
Take a spool of cheap fishing line and tie a nut to the end. Wedge the nut
into the tread on the rear of one of the back tires about 1/2 way up from
the ground, then string the line around all four wheels being careful to
avoid any bodywork between the front and rear wheels on each side so that
the line goes across each wheeel at its midpoint and tape or tie it off
somnewhere so it is snug.

Make sure that the steering wheel is as straight as possible. It can be
restrained in the centered position if you want.

Measure the distance that the line is held away from the rim due to the
sidewall bulging (depends on what you have for tires) and then cut 8
identical blocks sized about 1/4 to 1/2 inch wider than that distance.
Place double sided tape (thin carpet tape) on the backs of each of the
blocks and stick them temporarily on your rims under the fishing line. On
stock Wranglers the front and rear track is identical. On other vehicles
where the track is wider in the rear you can compensate by making the 4 rear
blocks thicker than the front ones by half the difference in the track spec.

Since the fronts edge of the wheels are supposed to be closer together, if
you gently pluck the line away from the front block until it still just
barely touches the rear block you can measure how much that wheel is toed
in. Do the same on the other side. Both sides should be the same amount
and the total of the two is the total toe-in. Adjust the tie rod ends first
for the total toe, then adjust both sides the same amount (in opposite
directions) to get the same toe on each side, which will center the wheel
when driving straight ahead.

After adjustment, drive a little bit on a flat road and analyze the wheel
centering. If it is not straight, make additional small adjustments (on
both sides, opposite directions) until the steering wheel is perfectly
centered. When satisfied, run the line around again, measure and record the
values for future reference.

The rear wheel angles can be checked the same way, though there is not much
you can do about them short of centering the axle.

I've been able to do a better job setting toe-in this way (after replacing
tie-rods) than the local alignment shop generally does.

-Fred W

 

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40B78F68.B83F5F5A@sympatico.ca...
> If that is the toe in from the book, then that is measured from the axle
> center as the zero to the front correct?
>
> If so, when doing the measuring using the front and rear of the tire, it
> would be 1/8" less across the front of the tire.
>
> That is how I thought it was, I could be mistaken.
>

Actually, I think the best bet is to make your measurements at the rims.
That way, unless your rims are bent you'll be setting the proper toe in for
the wheels and you have a nice hard, flat surface to measure from which is
always the same (7.5 inches from wheel centerpoint for 15" wheels). I would
be suspect that either the tire tread pattern or sidewalls could vary too
much for the degree of accuracy you are trying to measure.

Here's a slick way that you can measure toe-in:
Take a spool of cheap fishing line and tie a nut to the end. Wedge the nut
into the tread on the rear of one of the back tires about 1/2 way up from
the ground, then string the line around all four wheels being careful to
avoid any bodywork between the front and rear wheels on each side so that
the line goes across each wheeel at its midpoint and tape or tie it off
somnewhere so it is snug.

Make sure that the steering wheel is as straight as possible. It can be
restrained in the centered position if you want.

Measure the distance that the line is held away from the rim due to the
sidewall bulging (depends on what you have for tires) and then cut 8
identical blocks sized about 1/4 to 1/2 inch wider than that distance.
Place double sided tape (thin carpet tape) on the backs of each of the
blocks and stick them temporarily on your rims under the fishing line. On
stock Wranglers the front and rear track is identical. On other vehicles
where the track is wider in the rear you can compensate by making the 4 rear
blocks thicker than the front ones by half the difference in the track spec.

Since the fronts edge of the wheels are supposed to be closer together, if
you gently pluck the line away from the front block until it still just
barely touches the rear block you can measure how much that wheel is toed
in. Do the same on the other side. Both sides should be the same amount
and the total of the two is the total toe-in. Adjust the tie rod ends first
for the total toe, then adjust both sides the same amount (in opposite
directions) to get the same toe on each side, which will center the wheel
when driving straight ahead.

After adjustment, drive a little bit on a flat road and analyze the wheel
centering. If it is not straight, make additional small adjustments (on
both sides, opposite directions) until the steering wheel is perfectly
centered. When satisfied, run the line around again, measure and record the
values for future reference.

The rear wheel angles can be checked the same way, though there is not much
you can do about them short of centering the axle.

I've been able to do a better job setting toe-in this way (after replacing
tie-rods) than the local alignment shop generally does.

-Fred W

 

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40B78F68.B83F5F5A@sympatico.ca...
> If that is the toe in from the book, then that is measured from the axle
> center as the zero to the front correct?
>
> If so, when doing the measuring using the front and rear of the tire, it
> would be 1/8" less across the front of the tire.
>
> That is how I thought it was, I could be mistaken.
>

Actually, I think the best bet is to make your measurements at the rims.
That way, unless your rims are bent you'll be setting the proper toe in for
the wheels and you have a nice hard, flat surface to measure from which is
always the same (7.5 inches from wheel centerpoint for 15" wheels). I would
be suspect that either the tire tread pattern or sidewalls could vary too
much for the degree of accuracy you are trying to measure.

Here's a slick way that you can measure toe-in:
Take a spool of cheap fishing line and tie a nut to the end. Wedge the nut
into the tread on the rear of one of the back tires about 1/2 way up from
the ground, then string the line around all four wheels being careful to
avoid any bodywork between the front and rear wheels on each side so that
the line goes across each wheeel at its midpoint and tape or tie it off
somnewhere so it is snug.

Make sure that the steering wheel is as straight as possible. It can be
restrained in the centered position if you want.

Measure the distance that the line is held away from the rim due to the
sidewall bulging (depends on what you have for tires) and then cut 8
identical blocks sized about 1/4 to 1/2 inch wider than that distance.
Place double sided tape (thin carpet tape) on the backs of each of the
blocks and stick them temporarily on your rims under the fishing line. On
stock Wranglers the front and rear track is identical. On other vehicles
where the track is wider in the rear you can compensate by making the 4 rear
blocks thicker than the front ones by half the difference in the track spec.

Since the fronts edge of the wheels are supposed to be closer together, if
you gently pluck the line away from the front block until it still just
barely touches the rear block you can measure how much that wheel is toed
in. Do the same on the other side. Both sides should be the same amount
and the total of the two is the total toe-in. Adjust the tie rod ends first
for the total toe, then adjust both sides the same amount (in opposite
directions) to get the same toe on each side, which will center the wheel
when driving straight ahead.

After adjustment, drive a little bit on a flat road and analyze the wheel
centering. If it is not straight, make additional small adjustments (on
both sides, opposite directions) until the steering wheel is perfectly
centered. When satisfied, run the line around again, measure and record the
values for future reference.

The rear wheel angles can be checked the same way, though there is not much
you can do about them short of centering the axle.

I've been able to do a better job setting toe-in this way (after replacing
tie-rods) than the local alignment shop generally does.

-Fred W

 

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40B78F68.B83F5F5A@sympatico.ca...
> If that is the toe in from the book, then that is measured from the axle
> center as the zero to the front correct?
>
> If so, when doing the measuring using the front and rear of the tire, it
> would be 1/8" less across the front of the tire.
>
> That is how I thought it was, I could be mistaken.
>

Actually, I think the best bet is to make your measurements at the rims.
That way, unless your rims are bent you'll be setting the proper toe in for
the wheels and you have a nice hard, flat surface to measure from which is
always the same (7.5 inches from wheel centerpoint for 15" wheels). I would
be suspect that either the tire tread pattern or sidewalls could vary too
much for the degree of accuracy you are trying to measure.

Here's a slick way that you can measure toe-in:
Take a spool of cheap fishing line and tie a nut to the end. Wedge the nut
into the tread on the rear of one of the back tires about 1/2 way up from
the ground, then string the line around all four wheels being careful to
avoid any bodywork between the front and rear wheels on each side so that
the line goes across each wheeel at its midpoint and tape or tie it off
somnewhere so it is snug.

Make sure that the steering wheel is as straight as possible. It can be
restrained in the centered position if you want.

Measure the distance that the line is held away from the rim due to the
sidewall bulging (depends on what you have for tires) and then cut 8
identical blocks sized about 1/4 to 1/2 inch wider than that distance.
Place double sided tape (thin carpet tape) on the backs of each of the
blocks and stick them temporarily on your rims under the fishing line. On
stock Wranglers the front and rear track is identical. On other vehicles
where the track is wider in the rear you can compensate by making the 4 rear
blocks thicker than the front ones by half the difference in the track spec.

Since the fronts edge of the wheels are supposed to be closer together, if
you gently pluck the line away from the front block until it still just
barely touches the rear block you can measure how much that wheel is toed
in. Do the same on the other side. Both sides should be the same amount
and the total of the two is the total toe-in. Adjust the tie rod ends first
for the total toe, then adjust both sides the same amount (in opposite
directions) to get the same toe on each side, which will center the wheel
when driving straight ahead.

After adjustment, drive a little bit on a flat road and analyze the wheel
centering. If it is not straight, make additional small adjustments (on
both sides, opposite directions) until the steering wheel is perfectly
centered. When satisfied, run the line around again, measure and record the
values for future reference.

The rear wheel angles can be checked the same way, though there is not much
you can do about them short of centering the axle.

I've been able to do a better job setting toe-in this way (after replacing
tie-rods) than the local alignment shop generally does.

-Fred W

 

On 28 May 2004 08:04:42 -0700, snowboardripper@hotmail.com
(Snowboardripper) wrote:

>I am buying a skyjacker heavy-duty tie rod, but would like to know
>after you install it do you need a wheel alignment? Is there away to
>mark it so you do not need to get one done or is there a trick to it?


....I noticed the other replies on setting toe....but if you have good
alignment, and are replacing the entire tie rod assembly assuming it
is not bent...andf in reasonable condition...just make it the exact
same length as the one you take off....and surprisingly enough...it
will be the same ;-)

....Gareth

 

On 28 May 2004 08:04:42 -0700, snowboardripper@hotmail.com
(Snowboardripper) wrote:

>I am buying a skyjacker heavy-duty tie rod, but would like to know
>after you install it do you need a wheel alignment? Is there away to
>mark it so you do not need to get one done or is there a trick to it?


....I noticed the other replies on setting toe....but if you have good
alignment, and are replacing the entire tie rod assembly assuming it
is not bent...andf in reasonable condition...just make it the exact
same length as the one you take off....and surprisingly enough...it
will be the same ;-)

....Gareth

 

On 28 May 2004 08:04:42 -0700, snowboardripper@hotmail.com
(Snowboardripper) wrote:

>I am buying a skyjacker heavy-duty tie rod, but would like to know
>after you install it do you need a wheel alignment? Is there away to
>mark it so you do not need to get one done or is there a trick to it?


....I noticed the other replies on setting toe....but if you have good
alignment, and are replacing the entire tie rod assembly assuming it
is not bent...andf in reasonable condition...just make it the exact
same length as the one you take off....and surprisingly enough...it
will be the same ;-)

....Gareth