Ground Wire and Alternator?
12-18-2003 | 09:37 PM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Ground Wire and Alternator?
Okay, I went to NAPA after work to purchase a replacement alternator.
Instead of just going through with the purchase, I decided to ask the
counter guy what he thought about my situation of burning up a bunch of
alternators in a very short period.
First, he said I definitely have a wiring problem. The store was pretty
busy so I just ask him what I should be checking. He said to check all my
ground connections from the battery to the alternator, engine, fenders, etc.
I figured I'd be better off checking these first so I passed up the
purchase. By the way, the hot lead from the alternator to the battery is
fine.
Anyways, I found that the ground wire coming off the alternator housing to
the metal fender had no continuity (bad). Great.
Okay, this being my question. Why would it matter that I have good ground
from the alternator housing to the block. The block which has good
connection to the battery. The battery having good connection to the
opposite fender, this is not the fender the alternator is grounded to. Why
would this be a problem not having a the short ground lead to the nearest
body panel? Distance? Maybe too long a travel for a good connection? Too
much resistance maybe?
The guy said that a bad ground would definitely cause my alternator to
stress and overheat. Thanks all.
--
Thanks Always !!!
Paul '75 CJ5 258
Vail, CO.
Instead of just going through with the purchase, I decided to ask the
counter guy what he thought about my situation of burning up a bunch of
alternators in a very short period.
First, he said I definitely have a wiring problem. The store was pretty
busy so I just ask him what I should be checking. He said to check all my
ground connections from the battery to the alternator, engine, fenders, etc.
I figured I'd be better off checking these first so I passed up the
purchase. By the way, the hot lead from the alternator to the battery is
fine.
Anyways, I found that the ground wire coming off the alternator housing to
the metal fender had no continuity (bad). Great.
Okay, this being my question. Why would it matter that I have good ground
from the alternator housing to the block. The block which has good
connection to the battery. The battery having good connection to the
opposite fender, this is not the fender the alternator is grounded to. Why
would this be a problem not having a the short ground lead to the nearest
body panel? Distance? Maybe too long a travel for a good connection? Too
much resistance maybe?
The guy said that a bad ground would definitely cause my alternator to
stress and overheat. Thanks all.
--
Thanks Always !!!
Paul '75 CJ5 258
Vail, CO.
12-18-2003 | 09:45 PM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ground Wire and Alternator?
I don't know about that... the alternator should get its primary ground from
the mounting hardware (which is direct to the frame).
--
JimG
80' CJ-7 258 CID
35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA
4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R
Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries
"Paul Brogren" <pibrogren@msn.com> wrote in message
news:brtki2$7ffm7$1@ID-190695.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Okay, I went to NAPA after work to purchase a replacement alternator.
> Instead of just going through with the purchase, I decided to ask the
> counter guy what he thought about my situation of burning up a bunch of
> alternators in a very short period.
>
> First, he said I definitely have a wiring problem. The store was pretty
> busy so I just ask him what I should be checking. He said to check all my
> ground connections from the battery to the alternator, engine, fenders,
etc.
> I figured I'd be better off checking these first so I passed up the
> purchase. By the way, the hot lead from the alternator to the battery is
> fine.
>
> Anyways, I found that the ground wire coming off the alternator housing to
> the metal fender had no continuity (bad). Great.
>
> Okay, this being my question. Why would it matter that I have good ground
> from the alternator housing to the block. The block which has good
> connection to the battery. The battery having good connection to the
> opposite fender, this is not the fender the alternator is grounded to.
Why
> would this be a problem not having a the short ground lead to the nearest
> body panel? Distance? Maybe too long a travel for a good connection?
Too
> much resistance maybe?
>
> The guy said that a bad ground would definitely cause my alternator to
> stress and overheat. Thanks all.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
>
>
the mounting hardware (which is direct to the frame).
--
JimG
80' CJ-7 258 CID
35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA
4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R
Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries
"Paul Brogren" <pibrogren@msn.com> wrote in message
news:brtki2$7ffm7$1@ID-190695.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Okay, I went to NAPA after work to purchase a replacement alternator.
> Instead of just going through with the purchase, I decided to ask the
> counter guy what he thought about my situation of burning up a bunch of
> alternators in a very short period.
>
> First, he said I definitely have a wiring problem. The store was pretty
> busy so I just ask him what I should be checking. He said to check all my
> ground connections from the battery to the alternator, engine, fenders,
etc.
> I figured I'd be better off checking these first so I passed up the
> purchase. By the way, the hot lead from the alternator to the battery is
> fine.
>
> Anyways, I found that the ground wire coming off the alternator housing to
> the metal fender had no continuity (bad). Great.
>
> Okay, this being my question. Why would it matter that I have good ground
> from the alternator housing to the block. The block which has good
> connection to the battery. The battery having good connection to the
> opposite fender, this is not the fender the alternator is grounded to.
Why
> would this be a problem not having a the short ground lead to the nearest
> body panel? Distance? Maybe too long a travel for a good connection?
Too
> much resistance maybe?
>
> The guy said that a bad ground would definitely cause my alternator to
> stress and overheat. Thanks all.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
>
>
12-18-2003 | 09:45 PM
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ground Wire and Alternator?
I don't know about that... the alternator should get its primary ground from
the mounting hardware (which is direct to the frame).
--
JimG
80' CJ-7 258 CID
35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA
4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R
Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries
"Paul Brogren" <pibrogren@msn.com> wrote in message
news:brtki2$7ffm7$1@ID-190695.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Okay, I went to NAPA after work to purchase a replacement alternator.
> Instead of just going through with the purchase, I decided to ask the
> counter guy what he thought about my situation of burning up a bunch of
> alternators in a very short period.
>
> First, he said I definitely have a wiring problem. The store was pretty
> busy so I just ask him what I should be checking. He said to check all my
> ground connections from the battery to the alternator, engine, fenders,
etc.
> I figured I'd be better off checking these first so I passed up the
> purchase. By the way, the hot lead from the alternator to the battery is
> fine.
>
> Anyways, I found that the ground wire coming off the alternator housing to
> the metal fender had no continuity (bad). Great.
>
> Okay, this being my question. Why would it matter that I have good ground
> from the alternator housing to the block. The block which has good
> connection to the battery. The battery having good connection to the
> opposite fender, this is not the fender the alternator is grounded to.
Why
> would this be a problem not having a the short ground lead to the nearest
> body panel? Distance? Maybe too long a travel for a good connection?
Too
> much resistance maybe?
>
> The guy said that a bad ground would definitely cause my alternator to
> stress and overheat. Thanks all.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
>
>
the mounting hardware (which is direct to the frame).
--
JimG
80' CJ-7 258 CID
35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA
4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R
Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries
"Paul Brogren" <pibrogren@msn.com> wrote in message
news:brtki2$7ffm7$1@ID-190695.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Okay, I went to NAPA after work to purchase a replacement alternator.
> Instead of just going through with the purchase, I decided to ask the
> counter guy what he thought about my situation of burning up a bunch of
> alternators in a very short period.
>
> First, he said I definitely have a wiring problem. The store was pretty
> busy so I just ask him what I should be checking. He said to check all my
> ground connections from the battery to the alternator, engine, fenders,
etc.
> I figured I'd be better off checking these first so I passed up the
> purchase. By the way, the hot lead from the alternator to the battery is
> fine.
>
> Anyways, I found that the ground wire coming off the alternator housing to
> the metal fender had no continuity (bad). Great.
>
> Okay, this being my question. Why would it matter that I have good ground
> from the alternator housing to the block. The block which has good
> connection to the battery. The battery having good connection to the
> opposite fender, this is not the fender the alternator is grounded to.
Why
> would this be a problem not having a the short ground lead to the nearest
> body panel? Distance? Maybe too long a travel for a good connection?
Too
> much resistance maybe?
>
> The guy said that a bad ground would definitely cause my alternator to
> stress and overheat. Thanks all.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
>
>
12-18-2003 | 09:45 PM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ground Wire and Alternator?
I don't know about that... the alternator should get its primary ground from
the mounting hardware (which is direct to the frame).
--
JimG
80' CJ-7 258 CID
35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA
4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R
Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries
"Paul Brogren" <pibrogren@msn.com> wrote in message
news:brtki2$7ffm7$1@ID-190695.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Okay, I went to NAPA after work to purchase a replacement alternator.
> Instead of just going through with the purchase, I decided to ask the
> counter guy what he thought about my situation of burning up a bunch of
> alternators in a very short period.
>
> First, he said I definitely have a wiring problem. The store was pretty
> busy so I just ask him what I should be checking. He said to check all my
> ground connections from the battery to the alternator, engine, fenders,
etc.
> I figured I'd be better off checking these first so I passed up the
> purchase. By the way, the hot lead from the alternator to the battery is
> fine.
>
> Anyways, I found that the ground wire coming off the alternator housing to
> the metal fender had no continuity (bad). Great.
>
> Okay, this being my question. Why would it matter that I have good ground
> from the alternator housing to the block. The block which has good
> connection to the battery. The battery having good connection to the
> opposite fender, this is not the fender the alternator is grounded to.
Why
> would this be a problem not having a the short ground lead to the nearest
> body panel? Distance? Maybe too long a travel for a good connection?
Too
> much resistance maybe?
>
> The guy said that a bad ground would definitely cause my alternator to
> stress and overheat. Thanks all.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
>
>
the mounting hardware (which is direct to the frame).
--
JimG
80' CJ-7 258 CID
35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA
4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R
Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries
"Paul Brogren" <pibrogren@msn.com> wrote in message
news:brtki2$7ffm7$1@ID-190695.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Okay, I went to NAPA after work to purchase a replacement alternator.
> Instead of just going through with the purchase, I decided to ask the
> counter guy what he thought about my situation of burning up a bunch of
> alternators in a very short period.
>
> First, he said I definitely have a wiring problem. The store was pretty
> busy so I just ask him what I should be checking. He said to check all my
> ground connections from the battery to the alternator, engine, fenders,
etc.
> I figured I'd be better off checking these first so I passed up the
> purchase. By the way, the hot lead from the alternator to the battery is
> fine.
>
> Anyways, I found that the ground wire coming off the alternator housing to
> the metal fender had no continuity (bad). Great.
>
> Okay, this being my question. Why would it matter that I have good ground
> from the alternator housing to the block. The block which has good
> connection to the battery. The battery having good connection to the
> opposite fender, this is not the fender the alternator is grounded to.
Why
> would this be a problem not having a the short ground lead to the nearest
> body panel? Distance? Maybe too long a travel for a good connection?
Too
> much resistance maybe?
>
> The guy said that a bad ground would definitely cause my alternator to
> stress and overheat. Thanks all.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
>
>
12-18-2003 | 09:55 PM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ground Wire and Alternator?
JimG did pass the time by typing:
> I don't know about that... the alternator should get its primary ground from
> the mounting hardware (which is direct to the frame).
Alternator is direct to the engine block. Engine block is isolated from
the frame via the rubber engine mounts. If the ground strap between the
engine and frame is corroded the engine will not have a ground.
> "Paul Brogren" wrote ...
>> Okay, I went to NAPA after work to purchase a replacement alternator.
>> Instead of just going through with the purchase, I decided to ask the
>> counter guy what he thought about my situation of burning up a bunch of
>> alternators in a very short period.
>>
>> First, he said I definitely have a wiring problem. The store was pretty
>> busy so I just ask him what I should be checking. He said to check all my
>> ground connections from the battery to the alternator, engine, fenders, etc.
>> I figured I'd be better off checking these first so I passed up the
>> purchase. By the way, the hot lead from the alternator to the battery is
>> fine.
>>
>> Anyways, I found that the ground wire coming off the alternator housing to
>> the metal fender had no continuity (bad). Great.
>>
>> Okay, this being my question. Why would it matter that I have good ground
>> from the alternator housing to the block. The block which has good
>> connection to the battery. The battery having good connection to the
>> opposite fender, this is not the fender the alternator is grounded to. Why
>> would this be a problem not having a the short ground lead to the nearest
>> body panel? Distance? Maybe too long a travel for a good connection? Too
>> much resistance maybe?
>>
>> The guy said that a bad ground would definitely cause my alternator to
>> stress and overheat. Thanks all.
>>
>> --
>> Thanks Always !!!
>> Paul '75 CJ5 258
>> Vail, CO.
> I don't know about that... the alternator should get its primary ground from
> the mounting hardware (which is direct to the frame).
Alternator is direct to the engine block. Engine block is isolated from
the frame via the rubber engine mounts. If the ground strap between the
engine and frame is corroded the engine will not have a ground.
> "Paul Brogren" wrote ...
>> Okay, I went to NAPA after work to purchase a replacement alternator.
>> Instead of just going through with the purchase, I decided to ask the
>> counter guy what he thought about my situation of burning up a bunch of
>> alternators in a very short period.
>>
>> First, he said I definitely have a wiring problem. The store was pretty
>> busy so I just ask him what I should be checking. He said to check all my
>> ground connections from the battery to the alternator, engine, fenders, etc.
>> I figured I'd be better off checking these first so I passed up the
>> purchase. By the way, the hot lead from the alternator to the battery is
>> fine.
>>
>> Anyways, I found that the ground wire coming off the alternator housing to
>> the metal fender had no continuity (bad). Great.
>>
>> Okay, this being my question. Why would it matter that I have good ground
>> from the alternator housing to the block. The block which has good
>> connection to the battery. The battery having good connection to the
>> opposite fender, this is not the fender the alternator is grounded to. Why
>> would this be a problem not having a the short ground lead to the nearest
>> body panel? Distance? Maybe too long a travel for a good connection? Too
>> much resistance maybe?
>>
>> The guy said that a bad ground would definitely cause my alternator to
>> stress and overheat. Thanks all.
>>
>> --
>> Thanks Always !!!
>> Paul '75 CJ5 258
>> Vail, CO.
12-18-2003 | 09:55 PM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ground Wire and Alternator?
JimG did pass the time by typing:
> I don't know about that... the alternator should get its primary ground from
> the mounting hardware (which is direct to the frame).
Alternator is direct to the engine block. Engine block is isolated from
the frame via the rubber engine mounts. If the ground strap between the
engine and frame is corroded the engine will not have a ground.
> "Paul Brogren" wrote ...
>> Okay, I went to NAPA after work to purchase a replacement alternator.
>> Instead of just going through with the purchase, I decided to ask the
>> counter guy what he thought about my situation of burning up a bunch of
>> alternators in a very short period.
>>
>> First, he said I definitely have a wiring problem. The store was pretty
>> busy so I just ask him what I should be checking. He said to check all my
>> ground connections from the battery to the alternator, engine, fenders, etc.
>> I figured I'd be better off checking these first so I passed up the
>> purchase. By the way, the hot lead from the alternator to the battery is
>> fine.
>>
>> Anyways, I found that the ground wire coming off the alternator housing to
>> the metal fender had no continuity (bad). Great.
>>
>> Okay, this being my question. Why would it matter that I have good ground
>> from the alternator housing to the block. The block which has good
>> connection to the battery. The battery having good connection to the
>> opposite fender, this is not the fender the alternator is grounded to. Why
>> would this be a problem not having a the short ground lead to the nearest
>> body panel? Distance? Maybe too long a travel for a good connection? Too
>> much resistance maybe?
>>
>> The guy said that a bad ground would definitely cause my alternator to
>> stress and overheat. Thanks all.
>>
>> --
>> Thanks Always !!!
>> Paul '75 CJ5 258
>> Vail, CO.
> I don't know about that... the alternator should get its primary ground from
> the mounting hardware (which is direct to the frame).
Alternator is direct to the engine block. Engine block is isolated from
the frame via the rubber engine mounts. If the ground strap between the
engine and frame is corroded the engine will not have a ground.
> "Paul Brogren" wrote ...
>> Okay, I went to NAPA after work to purchase a replacement alternator.
>> Instead of just going through with the purchase, I decided to ask the
>> counter guy what he thought about my situation of burning up a bunch of
>> alternators in a very short period.
>>
>> First, he said I definitely have a wiring problem. The store was pretty
>> busy so I just ask him what I should be checking. He said to check all my
>> ground connections from the battery to the alternator, engine, fenders, etc.
>> I figured I'd be better off checking these first so I passed up the
>> purchase. By the way, the hot lead from the alternator to the battery is
>> fine.
>>
>> Anyways, I found that the ground wire coming off the alternator housing to
>> the metal fender had no continuity (bad). Great.
>>
>> Okay, this being my question. Why would it matter that I have good ground
>> from the alternator housing to the block. The block which has good
>> connection to the battery. The battery having good connection to the
>> opposite fender, this is not the fender the alternator is grounded to. Why
>> would this be a problem not having a the short ground lead to the nearest
>> body panel? Distance? Maybe too long a travel for a good connection? Too
>> much resistance maybe?
>>
>> The guy said that a bad ground would definitely cause my alternator to
>> stress and overheat. Thanks all.
>>
>> --
>> Thanks Always !!!
>> Paul '75 CJ5 258
>> Vail, CO.
12-18-2003 | 09:55 PM
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ground Wire and Alternator?
JimG did pass the time by typing:
> I don't know about that... the alternator should get its primary ground from
> the mounting hardware (which is direct to the frame).
Alternator is direct to the engine block. Engine block is isolated from
the frame via the rubber engine mounts. If the ground strap between the
engine and frame is corroded the engine will not have a ground.
> "Paul Brogren" wrote ...
>> Okay, I went to NAPA after work to purchase a replacement alternator.
>> Instead of just going through with the purchase, I decided to ask the
>> counter guy what he thought about my situation of burning up a bunch of
>> alternators in a very short period.
>>
>> First, he said I definitely have a wiring problem. The store was pretty
>> busy so I just ask him what I should be checking. He said to check all my
>> ground connections from the battery to the alternator, engine, fenders, etc.
>> I figured I'd be better off checking these first so I passed up the
>> purchase. By the way, the hot lead from the alternator to the battery is
>> fine.
>>
>> Anyways, I found that the ground wire coming off the alternator housing to
>> the metal fender had no continuity (bad). Great.
>>
>> Okay, this being my question. Why would it matter that I have good ground
>> from the alternator housing to the block. The block which has good
>> connection to the battery. The battery having good connection to the
>> opposite fender, this is not the fender the alternator is grounded to. Why
>> would this be a problem not having a the short ground lead to the nearest
>> body panel? Distance? Maybe too long a travel for a good connection? Too
>> much resistance maybe?
>>
>> The guy said that a bad ground would definitely cause my alternator to
>> stress and overheat. Thanks all.
>>
>> --
>> Thanks Always !!!
>> Paul '75 CJ5 258
>> Vail, CO.
> I don't know about that... the alternator should get its primary ground from
> the mounting hardware (which is direct to the frame).
Alternator is direct to the engine block. Engine block is isolated from
the frame via the rubber engine mounts. If the ground strap between the
engine and frame is corroded the engine will not have a ground.
> "Paul Brogren" wrote ...
>> Okay, I went to NAPA after work to purchase a replacement alternator.
>> Instead of just going through with the purchase, I decided to ask the
>> counter guy what he thought about my situation of burning up a bunch of
>> alternators in a very short period.
>>
>> First, he said I definitely have a wiring problem. The store was pretty
>> busy so I just ask him what I should be checking. He said to check all my
>> ground connections from the battery to the alternator, engine, fenders, etc.
>> I figured I'd be better off checking these first so I passed up the
>> purchase. By the way, the hot lead from the alternator to the battery is
>> fine.
>>
>> Anyways, I found that the ground wire coming off the alternator housing to
>> the metal fender had no continuity (bad). Great.
>>
>> Okay, this being my question. Why would it matter that I have good ground
>> from the alternator housing to the block. The block which has good
>> connection to the battery. The battery having good connection to the
>> opposite fender, this is not the fender the alternator is grounded to. Why
>> would this be a problem not having a the short ground lead to the nearest
>> body panel? Distance? Maybe too long a travel for a good connection? Too
>> much resistance maybe?
>>
>> The guy said that a bad ground would definitely cause my alternator to
>> stress and overheat. Thanks all.
>>
>> --
>> Thanks Always !!!
>> Paul '75 CJ5 258
>> Vail, CO.
12-18-2003 | 10:16 PM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ground Wire and Alternator?
Silly me. I forgot all about those rubber mounts. I'll run some new
grounds tomorrow. I think 10 gauge will work for the alternator to
frame/body. I'd use bigger, but thats all I have available right now.
--
Thanks Always !!!
Paul '75 CJ5 258
Vail, CO.
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:DUsEb.7754$PK3.7337@okepread01...
> JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > I don't know about that... the alternator should get its primary ground
from
> > the mounting hardware (which is direct to the frame).
>
> Alternator is direct to the engine block. Engine block is isolated from
> the frame via the rubber engine mounts. If the ground strap between the
> engine and frame is corroded the engine will not have a ground.
>
> > "Paul Brogren" wrote ...
> >> Okay, I went to NAPA after work to purchase a replacement alternator.
> >> Instead of just going through with the purchase, I decided to ask the
> >> counter guy what he thought about my situation of burning up a bunch of
> >> alternators in a very short period.
> >>
> >> First, he said I definitely have a wiring problem. The store was
pretty
> >> busy so I just ask him what I should be checking. He said to check all
my
> >> ground connections from the battery to the alternator, engine, fenders,
etc.
> >> I figured I'd be better off checking these first so I passed up the
> >> purchase. By the way, the hot lead from the alternator to the battery
is
> >> fine.
> >>
> >> Anyways, I found that the ground wire coming off the alternator housing
to
> >> the metal fender had no continuity (bad). Great.
> >>
> >> Okay, this being my question. Why would it matter that I have good
ground
> >> from the alternator housing to the block. The block which has good
> >> connection to the battery. The battery having good connection to the
> >> opposite fender, this is not the fender the alternator is grounded to.
Why
> >> would this be a problem not having a the short ground lead to the
nearest
> >> body panel? Distance? Maybe too long a travel for a good connection?
Too
> >> much resistance maybe?
> >>
> >> The guy said that a bad ground would definitely cause my alternator to
> >> stress and overheat. Thanks all.
> >>
> >> --
> >> Thanks Always !!!
> >> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> >> Vail, CO.
>
>
>
grounds tomorrow. I think 10 gauge will work for the alternator to
frame/body. I'd use bigger, but thats all I have available right now.
--
Thanks Always !!!
Paul '75 CJ5 258
Vail, CO.
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:DUsEb.7754$PK3.7337@okepread01...
> JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > I don't know about that... the alternator should get its primary ground
from
> > the mounting hardware (which is direct to the frame).
>
> Alternator is direct to the engine block. Engine block is isolated from
> the frame via the rubber engine mounts. If the ground strap between the
> engine and frame is corroded the engine will not have a ground.
>
> > "Paul Brogren" wrote ...
> >> Okay, I went to NAPA after work to purchase a replacement alternator.
> >> Instead of just going through with the purchase, I decided to ask the
> >> counter guy what he thought about my situation of burning up a bunch of
> >> alternators in a very short period.
> >>
> >> First, he said I definitely have a wiring problem. The store was
pretty
> >> busy so I just ask him what I should be checking. He said to check all
my
> >> ground connections from the battery to the alternator, engine, fenders,
etc.
> >> I figured I'd be better off checking these first so I passed up the
> >> purchase. By the way, the hot lead from the alternator to the battery
is
> >> fine.
> >>
> >> Anyways, I found that the ground wire coming off the alternator housing
to
> >> the metal fender had no continuity (bad). Great.
> >>
> >> Okay, this being my question. Why would it matter that I have good
ground
> >> from the alternator housing to the block. The block which has good
> >> connection to the battery. The battery having good connection to the
> >> opposite fender, this is not the fender the alternator is grounded to.
Why
> >> would this be a problem not having a the short ground lead to the
nearest
> >> body panel? Distance? Maybe too long a travel for a good connection?
Too
> >> much resistance maybe?
> >>
> >> The guy said that a bad ground would definitely cause my alternator to
> >> stress and overheat. Thanks all.
> >>
> >> --
> >> Thanks Always !!!
> >> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> >> Vail, CO.
>
>
>
12-18-2003 | 10:16 PM
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ground Wire and Alternator?
Silly me. I forgot all about those rubber mounts. I'll run some new
grounds tomorrow. I think 10 gauge will work for the alternator to
frame/body. I'd use bigger, but thats all I have available right now.
--
Thanks Always !!!
Paul '75 CJ5 258
Vail, CO.
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:DUsEb.7754$PK3.7337@okepread01...
> JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > I don't know about that... the alternator should get its primary ground
from
> > the mounting hardware (which is direct to the frame).
>
> Alternator is direct to the engine block. Engine block is isolated from
> the frame via the rubber engine mounts. If the ground strap between the
> engine and frame is corroded the engine will not have a ground.
>
> > "Paul Brogren" wrote ...
> >> Okay, I went to NAPA after work to purchase a replacement alternator.
> >> Instead of just going through with the purchase, I decided to ask the
> >> counter guy what he thought about my situation of burning up a bunch of
> >> alternators in a very short period.
> >>
> >> First, he said I definitely have a wiring problem. The store was
pretty
> >> busy so I just ask him what I should be checking. He said to check all
my
> >> ground connections from the battery to the alternator, engine, fenders,
etc.
> >> I figured I'd be better off checking these first so I passed up the
> >> purchase. By the way, the hot lead from the alternator to the battery
is
> >> fine.
> >>
> >> Anyways, I found that the ground wire coming off the alternator housing
to
> >> the metal fender had no continuity (bad). Great.
> >>
> >> Okay, this being my question. Why would it matter that I have good
ground
> >> from the alternator housing to the block. The block which has good
> >> connection to the battery. The battery having good connection to the
> >> opposite fender, this is not the fender the alternator is grounded to.
Why
> >> would this be a problem not having a the short ground lead to the
nearest
> >> body panel? Distance? Maybe too long a travel for a good connection?
Too
> >> much resistance maybe?
> >>
> >> The guy said that a bad ground would definitely cause my alternator to
> >> stress and overheat. Thanks all.
> >>
> >> --
> >> Thanks Always !!!
> >> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> >> Vail, CO.
>
>
>
grounds tomorrow. I think 10 gauge will work for the alternator to
frame/body. I'd use bigger, but thats all I have available right now.
--
Thanks Always !!!
Paul '75 CJ5 258
Vail, CO.
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:DUsEb.7754$PK3.7337@okepread01...
> JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > I don't know about that... the alternator should get its primary ground
from
> > the mounting hardware (which is direct to the frame).
>
> Alternator is direct to the engine block. Engine block is isolated from
> the frame via the rubber engine mounts. If the ground strap between the
> engine and frame is corroded the engine will not have a ground.
>
> > "Paul Brogren" wrote ...
> >> Okay, I went to NAPA after work to purchase a replacement alternator.
> >> Instead of just going through with the purchase, I decided to ask the
> >> counter guy what he thought about my situation of burning up a bunch of
> >> alternators in a very short period.
> >>
> >> First, he said I definitely have a wiring problem. The store was
pretty
> >> busy so I just ask him what I should be checking. He said to check all
my
> >> ground connections from the battery to the alternator, engine, fenders,
etc.
> >> I figured I'd be better off checking these first so I passed up the
> >> purchase. By the way, the hot lead from the alternator to the battery
is
> >> fine.
> >>
> >> Anyways, I found that the ground wire coming off the alternator housing
to
> >> the metal fender had no continuity (bad). Great.
> >>
> >> Okay, this being my question. Why would it matter that I have good
ground
> >> from the alternator housing to the block. The block which has good
> >> connection to the battery. The battery having good connection to the
> >> opposite fender, this is not the fender the alternator is grounded to.
Why
> >> would this be a problem not having a the short ground lead to the
nearest
> >> body panel? Distance? Maybe too long a travel for a good connection?
Too
> >> much resistance maybe?
> >>
> >> The guy said that a bad ground would definitely cause my alternator to
> >> stress and overheat. Thanks all.
> >>
> >> --
> >> Thanks Always !!!
> >> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> >> Vail, CO.
>
>
>
12-18-2003 | 10:16 PM
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ground Wire and Alternator?
Silly me. I forgot all about those rubber mounts. I'll run some new
grounds tomorrow. I think 10 gauge will work for the alternator to
frame/body. I'd use bigger, but thats all I have available right now.
--
Thanks Always !!!
Paul '75 CJ5 258
Vail, CO.
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:DUsEb.7754$PK3.7337@okepread01...
> JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > I don't know about that... the alternator should get its primary ground
from
> > the mounting hardware (which is direct to the frame).
>
> Alternator is direct to the engine block. Engine block is isolated from
> the frame via the rubber engine mounts. If the ground strap between the
> engine and frame is corroded the engine will not have a ground.
>
> > "Paul Brogren" wrote ...
> >> Okay, I went to NAPA after work to purchase a replacement alternator.
> >> Instead of just going through with the purchase, I decided to ask the
> >> counter guy what he thought about my situation of burning up a bunch of
> >> alternators in a very short period.
> >>
> >> First, he said I definitely have a wiring problem. The store was
pretty
> >> busy so I just ask him what I should be checking. He said to check all
my
> >> ground connections from the battery to the alternator, engine, fenders,
etc.
> >> I figured I'd be better off checking these first so I passed up the
> >> purchase. By the way, the hot lead from the alternator to the battery
is
> >> fine.
> >>
> >> Anyways, I found that the ground wire coming off the alternator housing
to
> >> the metal fender had no continuity (bad). Great.
> >>
> >> Okay, this being my question. Why would it matter that I have good
ground
> >> from the alternator housing to the block. The block which has good
> >> connection to the battery. The battery having good connection to the
> >> opposite fender, this is not the fender the alternator is grounded to.
Why
> >> would this be a problem not having a the short ground lead to the
nearest
> >> body panel? Distance? Maybe too long a travel for a good connection?
Too
> >> much resistance maybe?
> >>
> >> The guy said that a bad ground would definitely cause my alternator to
> >> stress and overheat. Thanks all.
> >>
> >> --
> >> Thanks Always !!!
> >> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> >> Vail, CO.
>
>
>
grounds tomorrow. I think 10 gauge will work for the alternator to
frame/body. I'd use bigger, but thats all I have available right now.
--
Thanks Always !!!
Paul '75 CJ5 258
Vail, CO.
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:DUsEb.7754$PK3.7337@okepread01...
> JimG did pass the time by typing:
> > I don't know about that... the alternator should get its primary ground
from
> > the mounting hardware (which is direct to the frame).
>
> Alternator is direct to the engine block. Engine block is isolated from
> the frame via the rubber engine mounts. If the ground strap between the
> engine and frame is corroded the engine will not have a ground.
>
> > "Paul Brogren" wrote ...
> >> Okay, I went to NAPA after work to purchase a replacement alternator.
> >> Instead of just going through with the purchase, I decided to ask the
> >> counter guy what he thought about my situation of burning up a bunch of
> >> alternators in a very short period.
> >>
> >> First, he said I definitely have a wiring problem. The store was
pretty
> >> busy so I just ask him what I should be checking. He said to check all
my
> >> ground connections from the battery to the alternator, engine, fenders,
etc.
> >> I figured I'd be better off checking these first so I passed up the
> >> purchase. By the way, the hot lead from the alternator to the battery
is
> >> fine.
> >>
> >> Anyways, I found that the ground wire coming off the alternator housing
to
> >> the metal fender had no continuity (bad). Great.
> >>
> >> Okay, this being my question. Why would it matter that I have good
ground
> >> from the alternator housing to the block. The block which has good
> >> connection to the battery. The battery having good connection to the
> >> opposite fender, this is not the fender the alternator is grounded to.
Why
> >> would this be a problem not having a the short ground lead to the
nearest
> >> body panel? Distance? Maybe too long a travel for a good connection?
Too
> >> much resistance maybe?
> >>
> >> The guy said that a bad ground would definitely cause my alternator to
> >> stress and overheat. Thanks all.
> >>
> >> --
> >> Thanks Always !!!
> >> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> >> Vail, CO.
>
>
>