Usually the hub is rusted on, some use the three bolts that hold it
on, loosened, and persuaded with a BMFH, I use a paint scraper and drive
it in to separate. The puller as suggested at:
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...2_feb/bearing/ Just
separates the bearings
http://----------.com/Dana30WheelBearing/
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Snow wrote:
>
> Ok the short of it... how does one go about removing the front hubs? I
> have a noisy bearing on the drivers side (eliminated the ujoint), I was
> interested to know of any tricks, do's and don;ts .
>
> Thanks
>
> Snow...

 

Usually the hub is rusted on, some use the three bolts that hold it
on, loosened, and persuaded with a BMFH, I use a paint scraper and drive
it in to separate. The puller as suggested at:
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...2_feb/bearing/ Just
separates the bearings
http://----------.com/Dana30WheelBearing/
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Snow wrote:
>
> Ok the short of it... how does one go about removing the front hubs? I
> have a noisy bearing on the drivers side (eliminated the ujoint), I was
> interested to know of any tricks, do's and don;ts .
>
> Thanks
>
> Snow...

 

Usually the hub is rusted on, some use the three bolts that hold it
on, loosened, and persuaded with a BMFH, I use a paint scraper and drive
it in to separate. The puller as suggested at:
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...2_feb/bearing/ Just
separates the bearings
http://----------.com/Dana30WheelBearing/
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Snow wrote:
>
> Ok the short of it... how does one go about removing the front hubs? I
> have a noisy bearing on the drivers side (eliminated the ujoint), I was
> interested to know of any tricks, do's and don;ts .
>
> Thanks
>
> Snow...

 

I use a cold chisel - a paint scraper would just wad up on no time if used
on a hub from the salt belt. If you can make them out with all the rust
obfuscating things, there are three places around the edge, about midway
between the ears that the bolts go through, where there's a bit of a gap for
the chisel, just about where the holes in the backing plate are. I
alternate around these three spots, pounding until my arm gets sore, and
just about when I'm ready to give up and accept that the hub is never going
to separate from the knuckle, it begins to move a little bit.

I suggest using anti-sieze when you put the new ones in.

/Peter

"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4272C236.A02CFE17@***.net...
> Usually the hub is rusted on, some use the three bolts that hold it
> on, loosened, and persuaded with a BMFH, I use a paint scraper and drive
> it in to separate. The puller as suggested at:
> http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...2_feb/bearing/ Just
> separates the bearings
> http://----------.com/Dana30WheelBearing/
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Snow wrote:
> >
> > Ok the short of it... how does one go about removing the front hubs? I
> > have a noisy bearing on the drivers side (eliminated the ujoint), I was
> > interested to know of any tricks, do's and don;ts .
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Snow...

 

I use a cold chisel - a paint scraper would just wad up on no time if used
on a hub from the salt belt. If you can make them out with all the rust
obfuscating things, there are three places around the edge, about midway
between the ears that the bolts go through, where there's a bit of a gap for
the chisel, just about where the holes in the backing plate are. I
alternate around these three spots, pounding until my arm gets sore, and
just about when I'm ready to give up and accept that the hub is never going
to separate from the knuckle, it begins to move a little bit.

I suggest using anti-sieze when you put the new ones in.

/Peter

"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4272C236.A02CFE17@***.net...
> Usually the hub is rusted on, some use the three bolts that hold it
> on, loosened, and persuaded with a BMFH, I use a paint scraper and drive
> it in to separate. The puller as suggested at:
> http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...2_feb/bearing/ Just
> separates the bearings
> http://----------.com/Dana30WheelBearing/
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Snow wrote:
> >
> > Ok the short of it... how does one go about removing the front hubs? I
> > have a noisy bearing on the drivers side (eliminated the ujoint), I was
> > interested to know of any tricks, do's and don;ts .
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Snow...

 

I use a cold chisel - a paint scraper would just wad up on no time if used
on a hub from the salt belt. If you can make them out with all the rust
obfuscating things, there are three places around the edge, about midway
between the ears that the bolts go through, where there's a bit of a gap for
the chisel, just about where the holes in the backing plate are. I
alternate around these three spots, pounding until my arm gets sore, and
just about when I'm ready to give up and accept that the hub is never going
to separate from the knuckle, it begins to move a little bit.

I suggest using anti-sieze when you put the new ones in.

/Peter

"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4272C236.A02CFE17@***.net...
> Usually the hub is rusted on, some use the three bolts that hold it
> on, loosened, and persuaded with a BMFH, I use a paint scraper and drive
> it in to separate. The puller as suggested at:
> http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...2_feb/bearing/ Just
> separates the bearings
> http://----------.com/Dana30WheelBearing/
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Snow wrote:
> >
> > Ok the short of it... how does one go about removing the front hubs? I
> > have a noisy bearing on the drivers side (eliminated the ujoint), I was
> > interested to know of any tricks, do's and don;ts .
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Snow...

 

I use a cold chisel - a paint scraper would just wad up on no time if used
on a hub from the salt belt. If you can make them out with all the rust
obfuscating things, there are three places around the edge, about midway
between the ears that the bolts go through, where there's a bit of a gap for
the chisel, just about where the holes in the backing plate are. I
alternate around these three spots, pounding until my arm gets sore, and
just about when I'm ready to give up and accept that the hub is never going
to separate from the knuckle, it begins to move a little bit.

I suggest using anti-sieze when you put the new ones in.

/Peter

"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4272C236.A02CFE17@***.net...
> Usually the hub is rusted on, some use the three bolts that hold it
> on, loosened, and persuaded with a BMFH, I use a paint scraper and drive
> it in to separate. The puller as suggested at:
> http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...2_feb/bearing/ Just
> separates the bearings
> http://----------.com/Dana30WheelBearing/
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Snow wrote:
> >
> > Ok the short of it... how does one go about removing the front hubs? I
> > have a noisy bearing on the drivers side (eliminated the ujoint), I was
> > interested to know of any tricks, do's and don;ts .
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Snow...

 

You may be thinking of a pudding knife, this is pretty strong and
holds a sharper edge than a chisel:
http://www.----------.com/scraper.jpg Remember we're working with cast
iron that's brittle like lower A-frame of a Libby.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Peter Pontbriand wrote:
>
> I use a cold chisel - a paint scraper would just wad up on no time if used
> on a hub from the salt belt. If you can make them out with all the rust
> obfuscating things, there are three places around the edge, about midway
> between the ears that the bolts go through, where there's a bit of a gap for
> the chisel, just about where the holes in the backing plate are. I
> alternate around these three spots, pounding until my arm gets sore, and
> just about when I'm ready to give up and accept that the hub is never going
> to separate from the knuckle, it begins to move a little bit.
>
> I suggest using anti-sieze when you put the new ones in.
>
> /Peter
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:4272C236.A02CFE17@***.net...
> > Usually the hub is rusted on, some use the three bolts that hold it
> > on, loosened, and persuaded with a BMFH, I use a paint scraper and drive
> > it in to separate. The puller as suggested at:
> > http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...2_feb/bearing/ Just
> > separates the bearings
> > http://----------.com/Dana30WheelBearing/
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Snow wrote:
> > >
> > > Ok the short of it... how does one go about removing the front hubs? I
> > > have a noisy bearing on the drivers side (eliminated the ujoint), I was
> > > interested to know of any tricks, do's and don;ts .
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > Snow...

 

You may be thinking of a pudding knife, this is pretty strong and
holds a sharper edge than a chisel:
http://www.----------.com/scraper.jpg Remember we're working with cast
iron that's brittle like lower A-frame of a Libby.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Peter Pontbriand wrote:
>
> I use a cold chisel - a paint scraper would just wad up on no time if used
> on a hub from the salt belt. If you can make them out with all the rust
> obfuscating things, there are three places around the edge, about midway
> between the ears that the bolts go through, where there's a bit of a gap for
> the chisel, just about where the holes in the backing plate are. I
> alternate around these three spots, pounding until my arm gets sore, and
> just about when I'm ready to give up and accept that the hub is never going
> to separate from the knuckle, it begins to move a little bit.
>
> I suggest using anti-sieze when you put the new ones in.
>
> /Peter
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:4272C236.A02CFE17@***.net...
> > Usually the hub is rusted on, some use the three bolts that hold it
> > on, loosened, and persuaded with a BMFH, I use a paint scraper and drive
> > it in to separate. The puller as suggested at:
> > http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...2_feb/bearing/ Just
> > separates the bearings
> > http://----------.com/Dana30WheelBearing/
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Snow wrote:
> > >
> > > Ok the short of it... how does one go about removing the front hubs? I
> > > have a noisy bearing on the drivers side (eliminated the ujoint), I was
> > > interested to know of any tricks, do's and don;ts .
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > Snow...

 

You may be thinking of a pudding knife, this is pretty strong and
holds a sharper edge than a chisel:
http://www.----------.com/scraper.jpg Remember we're working with cast
iron that's brittle like lower A-frame of a Libby.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Peter Pontbriand wrote:
>
> I use a cold chisel - a paint scraper would just wad up on no time if used
> on a hub from the salt belt. If you can make them out with all the rust
> obfuscating things, there are three places around the edge, about midway
> between the ears that the bolts go through, where there's a bit of a gap for
> the chisel, just about where the holes in the backing plate are. I
> alternate around these three spots, pounding until my arm gets sore, and
> just about when I'm ready to give up and accept that the hub is never going
> to separate from the knuckle, it begins to move a little bit.
>
> I suggest using anti-sieze when you put the new ones in.
>
> /Peter
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:4272C236.A02CFE17@***.net...
> > Usually the hub is rusted on, some use the three bolts that hold it
> > on, loosened, and persuaded with a BMFH, I use a paint scraper and drive
> > it in to separate. The puller as suggested at:
> > http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...2_feb/bearing/ Just
> > separates the bearings
> > http://----------.com/Dana30WheelBearing/
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Snow wrote:
> > >
> > > Ok the short of it... how does one go about removing the front hubs? I
> > > have a noisy bearing on the drivers side (eliminated the ujoint), I was
> > > interested to know of any tricks, do's and don;ts .
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > Snow...