Re: Front brakes dragging
 

-- First, you need to get the proportioner valve reset.

I've read about this, but I don't understand how... When I look at my
proportioner/combination valve, on the end facing toward the front of
the car there is a rubber cap that I pull off revealing a hole. I can
insert a hanger or a paper clip into it but there seems to be nothing
to push or pull. Perhaps I'm looking in the wrong place? Maybe it's
frozen?

If I take off the sensor I can see something in there but can't make
out what it is, and there's no fluid that comes out of the sensor hole.

Re: Front brakes dragging
 

-- First, you need to get the proportioner valve reset.

I've read about this, but I don't understand how... When I look at my
proportioner/combination valve, on the end facing toward the front of
the car there is a rubber cap that I pull off revealing a hole. I can
insert a hanger or a paper clip into it but there seems to be nothing
to push or pull. Perhaps I'm looking in the wrong place? Maybe it's
frozen?

If I take off the sensor I can see something in there but can't make
out what it is, and there's no fluid that comes out of the sensor hole.

Re: Front brakes dragging
 

-- First, you need to get the proportioner valve reset.

I've read about this, but I don't understand how... When I look at my
proportioner/combination valve, on the end facing toward the front of
the car there is a rubber cap that I pull off revealing a hole. I can
insert a hanger or a paper clip into it but there seems to be nothing
to push or pull. Perhaps I'm looking in the wrong place? Maybe it's
frozen?

If I take off the sensor I can see something in there but can't make
out what it is, and there's no fluid that comes out of the sensor hole.

Re: Front brakes dragging
 

Leave the sensor out, and bleed the brakes properly. If you have a blown
wheel cylinder, caliper, or a leaking brake line, the proportioning valve
will shut off the brakes at that end of the Jeep and turn on the light.
After properly bleeding the brakes, the sensor will center and reset itself.
If fluid DOES leak out of the sensor hole, the valve is bad.

If you would like more help, I'd be glad to, just email me direct at:

brysonct AT triad DOT rr DOT com

Spdloader



"Jolley" <mormonator@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1136327612.707519.88640@g14g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
> -- First, you need to get the proportioner valve reset.
>
> I've read about this, but I don't understand how... When I look at my
> proportioner/combination valve, on the end facing toward the front of
> the car there is a rubber cap that I pull off revealing a hole. I can
> insert a hanger or a paper clip into it but there seems to be nothing
> to push or pull. Perhaps I'm looking in the wrong place? Maybe it's
> frozen?
>
> If I take off the sensor I can see something in there but can't make
> out what it is, and there's no fluid that comes out of the sensor hole.
>

Re: Front brakes dragging
 

Leave the sensor out, and bleed the brakes properly. If you have a blown
wheel cylinder, caliper, or a leaking brake line, the proportioning valve
will shut off the brakes at that end of the Jeep and turn on the light.
After properly bleeding the brakes, the sensor will center and reset itself.
If fluid DOES leak out of the sensor hole, the valve is bad.

If you would like more help, I'd be glad to, just email me direct at:

brysonct AT triad DOT rr DOT com

Spdloader



"Jolley" <mormonator@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1136327612.707519.88640@g14g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
> -- First, you need to get the proportioner valve reset.
>
> I've read about this, but I don't understand how... When I look at my
> proportioner/combination valve, on the end facing toward the front of
> the car there is a rubber cap that I pull off revealing a hole. I can
> insert a hanger or a paper clip into it but there seems to be nothing
> to push or pull. Perhaps I'm looking in the wrong place? Maybe it's
> frozen?
>
> If I take off the sensor I can see something in there but can't make
> out what it is, and there's no fluid that comes out of the sensor hole.
>

Re: Front brakes dragging
 

Leave the sensor out, and bleed the brakes properly. If you have a blown
wheel cylinder, caliper, or a leaking brake line, the proportioning valve
will shut off the brakes at that end of the Jeep and turn on the light.
After properly bleeding the brakes, the sensor will center and reset itself.
If fluid DOES leak out of the sensor hole, the valve is bad.

If you would like more help, I'd be glad to, just email me direct at:

brysonct AT triad DOT rr DOT com

Spdloader



"Jolley" <mormonator@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1136327612.707519.88640@g14g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
> -- First, you need to get the proportioner valve reset.
>
> I've read about this, but I don't understand how... When I look at my
> proportioner/combination valve, on the end facing toward the front of
> the car there is a rubber cap that I pull off revealing a hole. I can
> insert a hanger or a paper clip into it but there seems to be nothing
> to push or pull. Perhaps I'm looking in the wrong place? Maybe it's
> frozen?
>
> If I take off the sensor I can see something in there but can't make
> out what it is, and there's no fluid that comes out of the sensor hole.
>

Re: Front brakes dragging
 

I was able to 'bleed' the proportioner valve. I lessened the bolt at
the end (with the hole in it) and took out the guts, cleaned and
reinstalled. Then I left the nut only partially screwed in and had
wifey pump the brakes to get the air out and then I tightened the bolt
up.

To my Joy, the brake light is now off! Unfortunately the brake still
drags. I jacked each front wheel up and found that really only the
right side is dragging and the left feels about what I would expect
with new brakes... I'm beginning to suspect a bad caliper/piston.

Using a C clamp I can press the caliper open just a little more and the
rotor will spin reasonably well, but by the time I replace the MC cover
and put the wheel back on its dragging heavily again.

One last thought: could the new brakes be just a little too thick? With
the tire on I loosened the caliper bolts slightly and the drag was
alleviated. (Its a thought anyway)

Re: Front brakes dragging
 

I was able to 'bleed' the proportioner valve. I lessened the bolt at
the end (with the hole in it) and took out the guts, cleaned and
reinstalled. Then I left the nut only partially screwed in and had
wifey pump the brakes to get the air out and then I tightened the bolt
up.

To my Joy, the brake light is now off! Unfortunately the brake still
drags. I jacked each front wheel up and found that really only the
right side is dragging and the left feels about what I would expect
with new brakes... I'm beginning to suspect a bad caliper/piston.

Using a C clamp I can press the caliper open just a little more and the
rotor will spin reasonably well, but by the time I replace the MC cover
and put the wheel back on its dragging heavily again.

One last thought: could the new brakes be just a little too thick? With
the tire on I loosened the caliper bolts slightly and the drag was
alleviated. (Its a thought anyway)

Re: Front brakes dragging
 

I was able to 'bleed' the proportioner valve. I lessened the bolt at
the end (with the hole in it) and took out the guts, cleaned and
reinstalled. Then I left the nut only partially screwed in and had
wifey pump the brakes to get the air out and then I tightened the bolt
up.

To my Joy, the brake light is now off! Unfortunately the brake still
drags. I jacked each front wheel up and found that really only the
right side is dragging and the left feels about what I would expect
with new brakes... I'm beginning to suspect a bad caliper/piston.

Using a C clamp I can press the caliper open just a little more and the
rotor will spin reasonably well, but by the time I replace the MC cover
and put the wheel back on its dragging heavily again.

One last thought: could the new brakes be just a little too thick? With
the tire on I loosened the caliper bolts slightly and the drag was
alleviated. (Its a thought anyway)

Re: Front brakes dragging
 

Bear in mind the proportioning valve is actuated by outside sources, it
didn't switch itself, an external brake problem caused it.
You'll have to fix whatever caused it to happen in the first place, or it'll
happen again.

By installing new pads, you moved the pistons back into the bore of the
caliper, and if they're old and corroded, they'll stick like you describe.
Sounds like time for new calipers.

Spdloader


"Jolley" <mormonator@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1136336667.928683.116190@g43g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
>I was able to 'bleed' the proportioner valve. I lessened the bolt at
> the end (with the hole in it) and took out the guts, cleaned and
> reinstalled. Then I left the nut only partially screwed in and had
> wifey pump the brakes to get the air out and then I tightened the bolt
> up.
>
> To my Joy, the brake light is now off! Unfortunately the brake still
> drags. I jacked each front wheel up and found that really only the
> right side is dragging and the left feels about what I would expect
> with new brakes... I'm beginning to suspect a bad caliper/piston.
>
> Using a C clamp I can press the caliper open just a little more and the
> rotor will spin reasonably well, but by the time I replace the MC cover
> and put the wheel back on its dragging heavily again.
>
> One last thought: could the new brakes be just a little too thick? With
> the tire on I loosened the caliper bolts slightly and the drag was
> alleviated. (Its a thought anyway)
>