Freeze plug in a 97 jeep grande cheerokee Ladrado inline 6 cyclinder.

The front freeze plug is leaking. The first place I took it to
diagnosed
the problem. And now it is such that you poor water in and you can
definately
see it run out that freeze plug. But they said to fix it they would
have
to pull the engine. The dealer becuase of dealer specific tools could
do
it without pulling the engine.

So off to the dealer I go...

The dealer comes back with they want $300 to replace the one front
freeze
plug and I most likely need them all replaced which would involve
pulling
the engine which would drive the bill to like a grand. The first place
was quoting $550 but after making that quote was calling back not
wanting
to do the work because of the extra labor involved in pulling the
engine
which was not to be needed if the dealer did it. If the dealer does
the
front one only yes they do not have to pull the engine.

The guy at the dealer is concerned that the engine might have to come
out
to get to the bottom freeze plugs.

I have heard on here about the tranni coming out to get to the back one
but that is about it. The dealer figures if one is out the rest are
paper thin.

Opinions...
Thanks,
David

 

quincy451@yahoo.com wrote:
> Freeze plug in a 97 jeep grande cheerokee Ladrado inline 6 cyclinder.
>
> The front freeze plug is leaking. The first place I took it to diagnosed
> the problem. And now it is such that you poor water in and you can definately
> see it run out that freeze plug. But they said to fix it they would have
> to pull the engine. The dealer becuase of dealer specific tools could do
> it without pulling the engine.
>
> So off to the dealer I go...
>
> The dealer comes back with they want $300 to replace the one front freeze
> plug and I most likely need them all replaced which would involve pulling
> the engine which would drive the bill to like a grand. The first
> place was quoting $550 but after making that quote was calling back not wanting
> to do the work because of the extra labor involved in pulling the engine
> which was not to be needed if the dealer did it. If the dealer does the
> front one only yes they do not have to pull the engine.


The rear most freeze/casting plugs require pulling the engine or dropping the
transmission. But if your just having one leak, odds are it's the only one
you need to deal with.

The side freeze plugs just take a hook style puller or a screwdriver/hammer to remove.
http://www.revbeergoggles.com/temp/side-i6.jpg
http://www.chain-auto-tools.com/gene...ls/AMR614E.htm

Autozone rents tools, and so do some other places. You should use the
correct tool as driving the plugs sideways (or not deep enough) will
cause leaks. And driving them too deep results in one pain of an
extraction process.

--
DougW

 

quincy451@yahoo.com wrote:
> Freeze plug in a 97 jeep grande cheerokee Ladrado inline 6 cyclinder.
>
> The front freeze plug is leaking. The first place I took it to diagnosed
> the problem. And now it is such that you poor water in and you can definately
> see it run out that freeze plug. But they said to fix it they would have
> to pull the engine. The dealer becuase of dealer specific tools could do
> it without pulling the engine.
>
> So off to the dealer I go...
>
> The dealer comes back with they want $300 to replace the one front freeze
> plug and I most likely need them all replaced which would involve pulling
> the engine which would drive the bill to like a grand. The first
> place was quoting $550 but after making that quote was calling back not wanting
> to do the work because of the extra labor involved in pulling the engine
> which was not to be needed if the dealer did it. If the dealer does the
> front one only yes they do not have to pull the engine.


The rear most freeze/casting plugs require pulling the engine or dropping the
transmission. But if your just having one leak, odds are it's the only one
you need to deal with.

The side freeze plugs just take a hook style puller or a screwdriver/hammer to remove.
http://www.revbeergoggles.com/temp/side-i6.jpg
http://www.chain-auto-tools.com/gene...ls/AMR614E.htm

Autozone rents tools, and so do some other places. You should use the
correct tool as driving the plugs sideways (or not deep enough) will
cause leaks. And driving them too deep results in one pain of an
extraction process.

--
DougW

 

quincy451@yahoo.com wrote:
> Freeze plug in a 97 jeep grande cheerokee Ladrado inline 6 cyclinder.
>
> The front freeze plug is leaking. The first place I took it to diagnosed
> the problem. And now it is such that you poor water in and you can definately
> see it run out that freeze plug. But they said to fix it they would have
> to pull the engine. The dealer becuase of dealer specific tools could do
> it without pulling the engine.
>
> So off to the dealer I go...
>
> The dealer comes back with they want $300 to replace the one front freeze
> plug and I most likely need them all replaced which would involve pulling
> the engine which would drive the bill to like a grand. The first
> place was quoting $550 but after making that quote was calling back not wanting
> to do the work because of the extra labor involved in pulling the engine
> which was not to be needed if the dealer did it. If the dealer does the
> front one only yes they do not have to pull the engine.


The rear most freeze/casting plugs require pulling the engine or dropping the
transmission. But if your just having one leak, odds are it's the only one
you need to deal with.

The side freeze plugs just take a hook style puller or a screwdriver/hammer to remove.
http://www.revbeergoggles.com/temp/side-i6.jpg
http://www.chain-auto-tools.com/gene...ls/AMR614E.htm

Autozone rents tools, and so do some other places. You should use the
correct tool as driving the plugs sideways (or not deep enough) will
cause leaks. And driving them too deep results in one pain of an
extraction process.

--
DougW

 

Doug, I disagree. If one is corroded enough to leak, the rest are probably
on their way to leaking. Most can be done without pulling the engine, but
it's much more difficult. I suppose you could just have the dealer replace
the leaking one and hope the others hold for a while.

Carl


"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:_kXUg.18037$iA5.4518@dukeread11...
> quincy451@yahoo.com wrote:
>> Freeze plug in a 97 jeep grande cheerokee Ladrado inline 6 cyclinder.
>>
>> The front freeze plug is leaking. The first place I took it to diagnosed
>> the problem. And now it is such that you poor water in and you can
>> definately
>> see it run out that freeze plug. But they said to fix it they would have
>> to pull the engine. The dealer becuase of dealer specific tools could do
>> it without pulling the engine.
>>
>> So off to the dealer I go...
>>
>> The dealer comes back with they want $300 to replace the one front freeze
>> plug and I most likely need them all replaced which would involve pulling
>> the engine which would drive the bill to like a grand. The first
>> place was quoting $550 but after making that quote was calling back not
>> wanting
>> to do the work because of the extra labor involved in pulling the engine
>> which was not to be needed if the dealer did it. If the dealer does the
>> front one only yes they do not have to pull the engine.
>
>
> The rear most freeze/casting plugs require pulling the engine or dropping
> the
> transmission. But if your just having one leak, odds are it's the only
> one
> you need to deal with.
>
> The side freeze plugs just take a hook style puller or a
> screwdriver/hammer to remove.
> http://www.revbeergoggles.com/temp/side-i6.jpg
> http://www.chain-auto-tools.com/gene...ls/AMR614E.htm
>
> Autozone rents tools, and so do some other places. You should use the
> correct tool as driving the plugs sideways (or not deep enough) will
> cause leaks. And driving them too deep results in one pain of an
> extraction process.
>
> --
> DougW
>
>

 

Doug, I disagree. If one is corroded enough to leak, the rest are probably
on their way to leaking. Most can be done without pulling the engine, but
it's much more difficult. I suppose you could just have the dealer replace
the leaking one and hope the others hold for a while.

Carl


"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:_kXUg.18037$iA5.4518@dukeread11...
> quincy451@yahoo.com wrote:
>> Freeze plug in a 97 jeep grande cheerokee Ladrado inline 6 cyclinder.
>>
>> The front freeze plug is leaking. The first place I took it to diagnosed
>> the problem. And now it is such that you poor water in and you can
>> definately
>> see it run out that freeze plug. But they said to fix it they would have
>> to pull the engine. The dealer becuase of dealer specific tools could do
>> it without pulling the engine.
>>
>> So off to the dealer I go...
>>
>> The dealer comes back with they want $300 to replace the one front freeze
>> plug and I most likely need them all replaced which would involve pulling
>> the engine which would drive the bill to like a grand. The first
>> place was quoting $550 but after making that quote was calling back not
>> wanting
>> to do the work because of the extra labor involved in pulling the engine
>> which was not to be needed if the dealer did it. If the dealer does the
>> front one only yes they do not have to pull the engine.
>
>
> The rear most freeze/casting plugs require pulling the engine or dropping
> the
> transmission. But if your just having one leak, odds are it's the only
> one
> you need to deal with.
>
> The side freeze plugs just take a hook style puller or a
> screwdriver/hammer to remove.
> http://www.revbeergoggles.com/temp/side-i6.jpg
> http://www.chain-auto-tools.com/gene...ls/AMR614E.htm
>
> Autozone rents tools, and so do some other places. You should use the
> correct tool as driving the plugs sideways (or not deep enough) will
> cause leaks. And driving them too deep results in one pain of an
> extraction process.
>
> --
> DougW
>
>

 

Doug, I disagree. If one is corroded enough to leak, the rest are probably
on their way to leaking. Most can be done without pulling the engine, but
it's much more difficult. I suppose you could just have the dealer replace
the leaking one and hope the others hold for a while.

Carl


"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:_kXUg.18037$iA5.4518@dukeread11...
> quincy451@yahoo.com wrote:
>> Freeze plug in a 97 jeep grande cheerokee Ladrado inline 6 cyclinder.
>>
>> The front freeze plug is leaking. The first place I took it to diagnosed
>> the problem. And now it is such that you poor water in and you can
>> definately
>> see it run out that freeze plug. But they said to fix it they would have
>> to pull the engine. The dealer becuase of dealer specific tools could do
>> it without pulling the engine.
>>
>> So off to the dealer I go...
>>
>> The dealer comes back with they want $300 to replace the one front freeze
>> plug and I most likely need them all replaced which would involve pulling
>> the engine which would drive the bill to like a grand. The first
>> place was quoting $550 but after making that quote was calling back not
>> wanting
>> to do the work because of the extra labor involved in pulling the engine
>> which was not to be needed if the dealer did it. If the dealer does the
>> front one only yes they do not have to pull the engine.
>
>
> The rear most freeze/casting plugs require pulling the engine or dropping
> the
> transmission. But if your just having one leak, odds are it's the only
> one
> you need to deal with.
>
> The side freeze plugs just take a hook style puller or a
> screwdriver/hammer to remove.
> http://www.revbeergoggles.com/temp/side-i6.jpg
> http://www.chain-auto-tools.com/gene...ls/AMR614E.htm
>
> Autozone rents tools, and so do some other places. You should use the
> correct tool as driving the plugs sideways (or not deep enough) will
> cause leaks. And driving them too deep results in one pain of an
> extraction process.
>
> --
> DougW
>
>

 

Carl wrote:
> Doug, I disagree. If one is corroded enough to leak, the rest are
> probably on their way to leaking. Most can be done without pulling
> the engine, but it's much more difficult. I suppose you could just
> have the dealer replace the leaking one and hope the others hold for
> a while.

True. I almost said that fixing just one depends on what it looks like.
If the plug was never properly seated it could have walked. I've seen
cases where folks pound the plug flush, but that's not enough, they need
to be sunk in 1mm or so. I've also seen where the factory didn't get
the plug in or there was a defect (scratch/pit) that somehow got past
inspection.


--
DougW

 

Carl wrote:
> Doug, I disagree. If one is corroded enough to leak, the rest are
> probably on their way to leaking. Most can be done without pulling
> the engine, but it's much more difficult. I suppose you could just
> have the dealer replace the leaking one and hope the others hold for
> a while.

True. I almost said that fixing just one depends on what it looks like.
If the plug was never properly seated it could have walked. I've seen
cases where folks pound the plug flush, but that's not enough, they need
to be sunk in 1mm or so. I've also seen where the factory didn't get
the plug in or there was a defect (scratch/pit) that somehow got past
inspection.


--
DougW

 

Carl wrote:
> Doug, I disagree. If one is corroded enough to leak, the rest are
> probably on their way to leaking. Most can be done without pulling
> the engine, but it's much more difficult. I suppose you could just
> have the dealer replace the leaking one and hope the others hold for
> a while.

True. I almost said that fixing just one depends on what it looks like.
If the plug was never properly seated it could have walked. I've seen
cases where folks pound the plug flush, but that's not enough, they need
to be sunk in 1mm or so. I've also seen where the factory didn't get
the plug in or there was a defect (scratch/pit) that somehow got past
inspection.


--
DougW