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Re: Easiest cheapest way to change to 4.11:1
Ok, googled around some more and I see were I got confused. The "carrier
case" refers the carrier holding all the spider geers and not "carrier case = pumpkin". So now I'm back to , just need carrier (and spiders) and / or a locker of some type that eliminates the carrier. But I dont' want posi in the rear end so... Years ago I worked for a landscape company that pushed snow in the winter. They had almost all dodge trucks and they actually removed the rear driveshaft in all the trucks and ran them in 4 hi / low making them front wheel drive instead of four wheel drive. The reason had to do with tearing diffs up because of a lot of driving on pavement with both axles locked and in all honesty I never had a problem pushing snow in with them. Anyway... is there any reason I couldn't put a detroit and 4.11 in the front axle and drive it without the rear driveshaft until I can find a wrecked Ruby or something and put Dana 44's under it ? Will it hurt a TJ to drive it without the rear driveshaft ? |
Re: Easiest cheapest way to change to 4.11:1
"FDC" <someone@spammymonkey.com> wrote in message news:Bzvgi.1$kC6.65@news.more.net... > > Years ago I worked for a landscape company that pushed snow in the winter. > They had almost all dodge trucks and they actually removed the rear > driveshaft in all the trucks and ran them in 4 hi / low making them front > wheel drive instead of four wheel drive. The reason had to do with > tearing diffs up because of a lot of driving on pavement with both axles > locked and in all honesty I never had a problem pushing snow in with them. In reality the problem was the drivers not taking them out of 4x4 in between plow jobs.... Anyway... > is there any reason I couldn't put a detroit and 4.11 in the front axle > and drive it without the rear driveshaft until I can find a wrecked Ruby > or something and put Dana 44's under it ? > > Will it hurt a TJ to drive it without the rear driveshaft ? Do you have the stock driveshaft? If so, you will hurt it. The stock driveshaft's slip joint is on the output shaft of the transfer case, and when you remove the shaft you will lose all your transfer case fluid out of the output end of the transfer case. If you installed a slip-yoke eliminator which converts the slip yoke to a fixed yoke and replaces the driveshaft with one with a slip joint, you should be OK. |
Re: Easiest cheapest way to change to 4.11:1
"FDC" <someone@spammymonkey.com> wrote in message news:Bzvgi.1$kC6.65@news.more.net... > > Years ago I worked for a landscape company that pushed snow in the winter. > They had almost all dodge trucks and they actually removed the rear > driveshaft in all the trucks and ran them in 4 hi / low making them front > wheel drive instead of four wheel drive. The reason had to do with > tearing diffs up because of a lot of driving on pavement with both axles > locked and in all honesty I never had a problem pushing snow in with them. In reality the problem was the drivers not taking them out of 4x4 in between plow jobs.... Anyway... > is there any reason I couldn't put a detroit and 4.11 in the front axle > and drive it without the rear driveshaft until I can find a wrecked Ruby > or something and put Dana 44's under it ? > > Will it hurt a TJ to drive it without the rear driveshaft ? Do you have the stock driveshaft? If so, you will hurt it. The stock driveshaft's slip joint is on the output shaft of the transfer case, and when you remove the shaft you will lose all your transfer case fluid out of the output end of the transfer case. If you installed a slip-yoke eliminator which converts the slip yoke to a fixed yoke and replaces the driveshaft with one with a slip joint, you should be OK. |
Re: Easiest cheapest way to change to 4.11:1
"FDC" <someone@spammymonkey.com> wrote in message news:Bzvgi.1$kC6.65@news.more.net... > > Years ago I worked for a landscape company that pushed snow in the winter. > They had almost all dodge trucks and they actually removed the rear > driveshaft in all the trucks and ran them in 4 hi / low making them front > wheel drive instead of four wheel drive. The reason had to do with > tearing diffs up because of a lot of driving on pavement with both axles > locked and in all honesty I never had a problem pushing snow in with them. In reality the problem was the drivers not taking them out of 4x4 in between plow jobs.... Anyway... > is there any reason I couldn't put a detroit and 4.11 in the front axle > and drive it without the rear driveshaft until I can find a wrecked Ruby > or something and put Dana 44's under it ? > > Will it hurt a TJ to drive it without the rear driveshaft ? Do you have the stock driveshaft? If so, you will hurt it. The stock driveshaft's slip joint is on the output shaft of the transfer case, and when you remove the shaft you will lose all your transfer case fluid out of the output end of the transfer case. If you installed a slip-yoke eliminator which converts the slip yoke to a fixed yoke and replaces the driveshaft with one with a slip joint, you should be OK. |
Re: Easiest cheapest way to change to 4.11:1
"FDC" <someone@spammymonkey.com> wrote in message news:Bzvgi.1$kC6.65@news.more.net... > > Years ago I worked for a landscape company that pushed snow in the winter. > They had almost all dodge trucks and they actually removed the rear > driveshaft in all the trucks and ran them in 4 hi / low making them front > wheel drive instead of four wheel drive. The reason had to do with > tearing diffs up because of a lot of driving on pavement with both axles > locked and in all honesty I never had a problem pushing snow in with them. In reality the problem was the drivers not taking them out of 4x4 in between plow jobs.... Anyway... > is there any reason I couldn't put a detroit and 4.11 in the front axle > and drive it without the rear driveshaft until I can find a wrecked Ruby > or something and put Dana 44's under it ? > > Will it hurt a TJ to drive it without the rear driveshaft ? Do you have the stock driveshaft? If so, you will hurt it. The stock driveshaft's slip joint is on the output shaft of the transfer case, and when you remove the shaft you will lose all your transfer case fluid out of the output end of the transfer case. If you installed a slip-yoke eliminator which converts the slip yoke to a fixed yoke and replaces the driveshaft with one with a slip joint, you should be OK. |
Re: Easiest cheapest way to change to 4.11:1
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> "FDC" <someone@spammymonkey.com> wrote in message > news:Bzvgi.1$kC6.65@news.more.net... > >> Years ago I worked for a landscape company that pushed snow in the winter. >> They had almost all dodge trucks and they actually removed the rear >> driveshaft in all the trucks and ran them in 4 hi / low making them front >> wheel drive instead of four wheel drive. The reason had to do with >> tearing diffs up because of a lot of driving on pavement with both axles >> locked and in all honesty I never had a problem pushing snow in with them. > > In reality the problem was the drivers not taking them out of 4x4 in between > plow jobs.... > > Anyway... >> is there any reason I couldn't put a detroit and 4.11 in the front axle >> and drive it without the rear driveshaft until I can find a wrecked Ruby >> or something and put Dana 44's under it ? >> >> Will it hurt a TJ to drive it without the rear driveshaft ? > Do you have the stock driveshaft? If so, you will hurt it. The stock > driveshaft's slip joint is on the output shaft of the transfer case, and > when you remove the shaft you will lose all your transfer case fluid out of > the output end of the transfer case. If you installed a slip-yoke eliminator > which converts the slip yoke to a fixed yoke and replaces the driveshaft > with one with a slip joint, you should be OK. > > You can cap the hole. I believe it was Jerry B that stated a WD40 cap fits right on with a hose clamp to hold it in a pinch, but maybe something a little stronger is in order. Other than that and being 'really' careful not to goose the gas when the wheels are turned there are no real issues. (The front wheels have U-joints, not CV joints so you have to be a bit easy on turns.) I have driven my CJ7 like that after I cooked a driveshaft u-joint when pulling out a stuck (high centered) LR Disco. It even handled well up to the 60 mph I took it on the highway home. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: Easiest cheapest way to change to 4.11:1
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> "FDC" <someone@spammymonkey.com> wrote in message > news:Bzvgi.1$kC6.65@news.more.net... > >> Years ago I worked for a landscape company that pushed snow in the winter. >> They had almost all dodge trucks and they actually removed the rear >> driveshaft in all the trucks and ran them in 4 hi / low making them front >> wheel drive instead of four wheel drive. The reason had to do with >> tearing diffs up because of a lot of driving on pavement with both axles >> locked and in all honesty I never had a problem pushing snow in with them. > > In reality the problem was the drivers not taking them out of 4x4 in between > plow jobs.... > > Anyway... >> is there any reason I couldn't put a detroit and 4.11 in the front axle >> and drive it without the rear driveshaft until I can find a wrecked Ruby >> or something and put Dana 44's under it ? >> >> Will it hurt a TJ to drive it without the rear driveshaft ? > Do you have the stock driveshaft? If so, you will hurt it. The stock > driveshaft's slip joint is on the output shaft of the transfer case, and > when you remove the shaft you will lose all your transfer case fluid out of > the output end of the transfer case. If you installed a slip-yoke eliminator > which converts the slip yoke to a fixed yoke and replaces the driveshaft > with one with a slip joint, you should be OK. > > You can cap the hole. I believe it was Jerry B that stated a WD40 cap fits right on with a hose clamp to hold it in a pinch, but maybe something a little stronger is in order. Other than that and being 'really' careful not to goose the gas when the wheels are turned there are no real issues. (The front wheels have U-joints, not CV joints so you have to be a bit easy on turns.) I have driven my CJ7 like that after I cooked a driveshaft u-joint when pulling out a stuck (high centered) LR Disco. It even handled well up to the 60 mph I took it on the highway home. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: Easiest cheapest way to change to 4.11:1
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> "FDC" <someone@spammymonkey.com> wrote in message > news:Bzvgi.1$kC6.65@news.more.net... > >> Years ago I worked for a landscape company that pushed snow in the winter. >> They had almost all dodge trucks and they actually removed the rear >> driveshaft in all the trucks and ran them in 4 hi / low making them front >> wheel drive instead of four wheel drive. The reason had to do with >> tearing diffs up because of a lot of driving on pavement with both axles >> locked and in all honesty I never had a problem pushing snow in with them. > > In reality the problem was the drivers not taking them out of 4x4 in between > plow jobs.... > > Anyway... >> is there any reason I couldn't put a detroit and 4.11 in the front axle >> and drive it without the rear driveshaft until I can find a wrecked Ruby >> or something and put Dana 44's under it ? >> >> Will it hurt a TJ to drive it without the rear driveshaft ? > Do you have the stock driveshaft? If so, you will hurt it. The stock > driveshaft's slip joint is on the output shaft of the transfer case, and > when you remove the shaft you will lose all your transfer case fluid out of > the output end of the transfer case. If you installed a slip-yoke eliminator > which converts the slip yoke to a fixed yoke and replaces the driveshaft > with one with a slip joint, you should be OK. > > You can cap the hole. I believe it was Jerry B that stated a WD40 cap fits right on with a hose clamp to hold it in a pinch, but maybe something a little stronger is in order. Other than that and being 'really' careful not to goose the gas when the wheels are turned there are no real issues. (The front wheels have U-joints, not CV joints so you have to be a bit easy on turns.) I have driven my CJ7 like that after I cooked a driveshaft u-joint when pulling out a stuck (high centered) LR Disco. It even handled well up to the 60 mph I took it on the highway home. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: Easiest cheapest way to change to 4.11:1
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> "FDC" <someone@spammymonkey.com> wrote in message > news:Bzvgi.1$kC6.65@news.more.net... > >> Years ago I worked for a landscape company that pushed snow in the winter. >> They had almost all dodge trucks and they actually removed the rear >> driveshaft in all the trucks and ran them in 4 hi / low making them front >> wheel drive instead of four wheel drive. The reason had to do with >> tearing diffs up because of a lot of driving on pavement with both axles >> locked and in all honesty I never had a problem pushing snow in with them. > > In reality the problem was the drivers not taking them out of 4x4 in between > plow jobs.... > > Anyway... >> is there any reason I couldn't put a detroit and 4.11 in the front axle >> and drive it without the rear driveshaft until I can find a wrecked Ruby >> or something and put Dana 44's under it ? >> >> Will it hurt a TJ to drive it without the rear driveshaft ? > Do you have the stock driveshaft? If so, you will hurt it. The stock > driveshaft's slip joint is on the output shaft of the transfer case, and > when you remove the shaft you will lose all your transfer case fluid out of > the output end of the transfer case. If you installed a slip-yoke eliminator > which converts the slip yoke to a fixed yoke and replaces the driveshaft > with one with a slip joint, you should be OK. > > You can cap the hole. I believe it was Jerry B that stated a WD40 cap fits right on with a hose clamp to hold it in a pinch, but maybe something a little stronger is in order. Other than that and being 'really' careful not to goose the gas when the wheels are turned there are no real issues. (The front wheels have U-joints, not CV joints so you have to be a bit easy on turns.) I have driven my CJ7 like that after I cooked a driveshaft u-joint when pulling out a stuck (high centered) LR Disco. It even handled well up to the 60 mph I took it on the highway home. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: Easiest cheapest way to change to 4.11:1
>>> Will it hurt a TJ to drive it without the rear driveshaft ? >> Do you have the stock driveshaft? If so, you will hurt it. The stock >> driveshaft's slip joint is on the output shaft of the transfer case, and >> when you remove the shaft you will lose all your transfer case fluid out >> of the output end of the transfer case. If you installed a slip-yoke >> eliminator which converts the slip yoke to a fixed yoke and replaces the >> driveshaft with one with a slip joint, you should be OK. > > You can cap the hole. I believe it was Jerry B that stated a WD40 cap > fits right on with a hose clamp to hold it in a pinch, but maybe something > a little stronger is in order. > You can do that, I would consider that an emergency trail fix and not something to do long term, kind of like driving on a compact spare tire. |
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