My son just bought a 1999 TJ and it just so happens 2 weeks ago we put
a new battery in his old 93 YJ, the dealership was a real pain to deal
with so they are getting the trade vehicle with the old worn out
battery. :)

Now I'm looking at this shiney new battery and thinking hell why not
install a dual battery setup to help during the very cold winters we
get here in Alberta.

I have been looking at setups and some seem very complicated and
possibly prone to future problems and all I really want is to have a
spare battery.

Has anyone ever used a setup like this one?
Will my stock alternator have enough jam to run a dual system?

BTW I can't understand why he installed the switch on his dash like he
did...just plain ugly imho.

 

What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually connected,
large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt all of
the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with dual
batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery isolater
so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12 ga, only
when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are disconnected
when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one battery and
drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt. Some
use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't need all
of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp batt
then two smaller.
Steve g.
"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
news:k57kl0pskk9u9q0nvhbk9p7bmj1fvdk9jv@4ax.com...
> My son just bought a 1999 TJ and it just so happens 2 weeks ago we put
> a new battery in his old 93 YJ, the dealership was a real pain to deal
> with so they are getting the trade vehicle with the old worn out
> battery. :)
>
> Now I'm looking at this shiney new battery and thinking hell why not
> install a dual battery setup to help during the very cold winters we
> get here in Alberta.
>
> I have been looking at setups and some seem very complicated and
> possibly prone to future problems and all I really want is to have a
> spare battery.
>
> Has anyone ever used a setup like this one?
> Will my stock alternator have enough jam to run a dual system?
>
> BTW I can't understand why he installed the switch on his dash like he
> did...just plain ugly imho.
>
>
>
>
>
>

 

What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually connected,
large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt all of
the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with dual
batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery isolater
so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12 ga, only
when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are disconnected
when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one battery and
drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt. Some
use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't need all
of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp batt
then two smaller.
Steve g.
"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
news:k57kl0pskk9u9q0nvhbk9p7bmj1fvdk9jv@4ax.com...
> My son just bought a 1999 TJ and it just so happens 2 weeks ago we put
> a new battery in his old 93 YJ, the dealership was a real pain to deal
> with so they are getting the trade vehicle with the old worn out
> battery. :)
>
> Now I'm looking at this shiney new battery and thinking hell why not
> install a dual battery setup to help during the very cold winters we
> get here in Alberta.
>
> I have been looking at setups and some seem very complicated and
> possibly prone to future problems and all I really want is to have a
> spare battery.
>
> Has anyone ever used a setup like this one?
> Will my stock alternator have enough jam to run a dual system?
>
> BTW I can't understand why he installed the switch on his dash like he
> did...just plain ugly imho.
>
>
>
>
>
>

 

What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually connected,
large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt all of
the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with dual
batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery isolater
so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12 ga, only
when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are disconnected
when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one battery and
drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt. Some
use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't need all
of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp batt
then two smaller.
Steve g.
"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
news:k57kl0pskk9u9q0nvhbk9p7bmj1fvdk9jv@4ax.com...
> My son just bought a 1999 TJ and it just so happens 2 weeks ago we put
> a new battery in his old 93 YJ, the dealership was a real pain to deal
> with so they are getting the trade vehicle with the old worn out
> battery. :)
>
> Now I'm looking at this shiney new battery and thinking hell why not
> install a dual battery setup to help during the very cold winters we
> get here in Alberta.
>
> I have been looking at setups and some seem very complicated and
> possibly prone to future problems and all I really want is to have a
> spare battery.
>
> Has anyone ever used a setup like this one?
> Will my stock alternator have enough jam to run a dual system?
>
> BTW I can't understand why he installed the switch on his dash like he
> did...just plain ugly imho.
>
>
>
>
>
>

 

Ditto, Plus even with isolators they want the batteries to be near
equal to start.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Steve G wrote:
>
> What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually connected,
> large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt all of
> the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with dual
> batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery isolater
> so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12 ga, only
> when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are disconnected
> when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one battery and
> drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt. Some
> use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
> emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't need all
> of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
> Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp batt
> then two smaller.
> Steve g.

 

Ditto, Plus even with isolators they want the batteries to be near
equal to start.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Steve G wrote:
>
> What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually connected,
> large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt all of
> the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with dual
> batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery isolater
> so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12 ga, only
> when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are disconnected
> when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one battery and
> drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt. Some
> use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
> emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't need all
> of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
> Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp batt
> then two smaller.
> Steve g.

 

Ditto, Plus even with isolators they want the batteries to be near
equal to start.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Steve G wrote:
>
> What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually connected,
> large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt all of
> the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with dual
> batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery isolater
> so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12 ga, only
> when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are disconnected
> when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one battery and
> drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt. Some
> use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
> emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't need all
> of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
> Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp batt
> then two smaller.
> Steve g.

 

L.W. ("ßill") ------ III did pass the time by typing:
> Ditto, Plus even with isolators they want the batteries to be near
> equal to start.

Good ref site: http://www.hellroaring.com/battery1.htm
Lots of pictures and explanations of the different setup methods
and why you would choose one over the other.

Sistering batteries (jumping pos-pos, neg-neg) is not a good idea
unless the batteries are identical, and even then it's still not
a good idea.


> Steve G wrote:
>>
>> What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually connected,
>> large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt all of
>> the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with dual
>> batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery isolater
>> so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12 ga, only
>> when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are disconnected
>> when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one battery and
>> drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt. Some
>> use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
>> emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't need all
>> of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
>> Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp batt
>> then two smaller.
>> Steve g.

 

L.W. ("ßill") ------ III did pass the time by typing:
> Ditto, Plus even with isolators they want the batteries to be near
> equal to start.

Good ref site: http://www.hellroaring.com/battery1.htm
Lots of pictures and explanations of the different setup methods
and why you would choose one over the other.

Sistering batteries (jumping pos-pos, neg-neg) is not a good idea
unless the batteries are identical, and even then it's still not
a good idea.


> Steve G wrote:
>>
>> What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually connected,
>> large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt all of
>> the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with dual
>> batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery isolater
>> so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12 ga, only
>> when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are disconnected
>> when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one battery and
>> drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt. Some
>> use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
>> emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't need all
>> of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
>> Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp batt
>> then two smaller.
>> Steve g.

 

L.W. ("ßill") ------ III did pass the time by typing:
> Ditto, Plus even with isolators they want the batteries to be near
> equal to start.

Good ref site: http://www.hellroaring.com/battery1.htm
Lots of pictures and explanations of the different setup methods
and why you would choose one over the other.

Sistering batteries (jumping pos-pos, neg-neg) is not a good idea
unless the batteries are identical, and even then it's still not
a good idea.


> Steve G wrote:
>>
>> What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually connected,
>> large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt all of
>> the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with dual
>> batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery isolater
>> so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12 ga, only
>> when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are disconnected
>> when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one battery and
>> drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt. Some
>> use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
>> emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't need all
>> of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
>> Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp batt
>> then two smaller.
>> Steve g.