Compressor strength for supporting valves
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Compressor strength for supporting valves
yes
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bujn7b$i1oes$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> What amount of PSI or compressor strength do I need to support the valves
> when I take the springs off?
>
> I see some advertised at 100 Max PSI. Is this enough?
>
> Comments, suggestions are welcome.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bujn7b$i1oes$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> What amount of PSI or compressor strength do I need to support the valves
> when I take the springs off?
>
> I see some advertised at 100 Max PSI. Is this enough?
>
> Comments, suggestions are welcome.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Compressor strength for supporting valves
yes
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bujn7b$i1oes$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> What amount of PSI or compressor strength do I need to support the valves
> when I take the springs off?
>
> I see some advertised at 100 Max PSI. Is this enough?
>
> Comments, suggestions are welcome.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bujn7b$i1oes$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> What amount of PSI or compressor strength do I need to support the valves
> when I take the springs off?
>
> I see some advertised at 100 Max PSI. Is this enough?
>
> Comments, suggestions are welcome.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Compressor strength for supporting valves
yes
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bujn7b$i1oes$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> What amount of PSI or compressor strength do I need to support the valves
> when I take the springs off?
>
> I see some advertised at 100 Max PSI. Is this enough?
>
> Comments, suggestions are welcome.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bujn7b$i1oes$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> What amount of PSI or compressor strength do I need to support the valves
> when I take the springs off?
>
> I see some advertised at 100 Max PSI. Is this enough?
>
> Comments, suggestions are welcome.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Compressor strength for supporting valves
100 psi is fine. If you've got bad blowby or leaking valves you made need
the volume of a larger compressor to maintain 100 psi, but that's unlikely.
I wouldn't try to do it with one of those little ones intended to inflate
tires only unless you can connect it to a large tank. If it can't put out
enough volume to keep up with the blowby (there's always some) pressure will
drop and so will the valve. You'll know as soon as you hook it up. If
you've never done this before a couple of notes.
Remove the rockers before applying air.
Be aware that when you plug the air in the engine is likely to turn over a
bit to move the piston to the bottom of the stroke so watch where your
hands, tools and cords are when you do this.
I make a habit of taking a hammer and tapping the top of the valve stem once
the air is holding them in place (springs still on) to ensure they're held
firmly. Then I remove the spring. A small pencil type magnet is handy for
getting the keepers out of the retainers once the spring is compressed,
especially if you've got fat fingers.
When reassembling , spring and keepers on and air removed take your hammer
and tap the top of the valves again to make sure the keepers are seated
properly in the retainers. Don't forget to oil the new seals when you put
them on.
Steve
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bujn7b$i1oes$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> What amount of PSI or compressor strength do I need to support the valves
> when I take the springs off?
>
> I see some advertised at 100 Max PSI. Is this enough?
>
> Comments, suggestions are welcome.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>
the volume of a larger compressor to maintain 100 psi, but that's unlikely.
I wouldn't try to do it with one of those little ones intended to inflate
tires only unless you can connect it to a large tank. If it can't put out
enough volume to keep up with the blowby (there's always some) pressure will
drop and so will the valve. You'll know as soon as you hook it up. If
you've never done this before a couple of notes.
Remove the rockers before applying air.
Be aware that when you plug the air in the engine is likely to turn over a
bit to move the piston to the bottom of the stroke so watch where your
hands, tools and cords are when you do this.
I make a habit of taking a hammer and tapping the top of the valve stem once
the air is holding them in place (springs still on) to ensure they're held
firmly. Then I remove the spring. A small pencil type magnet is handy for
getting the keepers out of the retainers once the spring is compressed,
especially if you've got fat fingers.
When reassembling , spring and keepers on and air removed take your hammer
and tap the top of the valves again to make sure the keepers are seated
properly in the retainers. Don't forget to oil the new seals when you put
them on.
Steve
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bujn7b$i1oes$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> What amount of PSI or compressor strength do I need to support the valves
> when I take the springs off?
>
> I see some advertised at 100 Max PSI. Is this enough?
>
> Comments, suggestions are welcome.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Compressor strength for supporting valves
100 psi is fine. If you've got bad blowby or leaking valves you made need
the volume of a larger compressor to maintain 100 psi, but that's unlikely.
I wouldn't try to do it with one of those little ones intended to inflate
tires only unless you can connect it to a large tank. If it can't put out
enough volume to keep up with the blowby (there's always some) pressure will
drop and so will the valve. You'll know as soon as you hook it up. If
you've never done this before a couple of notes.
Remove the rockers before applying air.
Be aware that when you plug the air in the engine is likely to turn over a
bit to move the piston to the bottom of the stroke so watch where your
hands, tools and cords are when you do this.
I make a habit of taking a hammer and tapping the top of the valve stem once
the air is holding them in place (springs still on) to ensure they're held
firmly. Then I remove the spring. A small pencil type magnet is handy for
getting the keepers out of the retainers once the spring is compressed,
especially if you've got fat fingers.
When reassembling , spring and keepers on and air removed take your hammer
and tap the top of the valves again to make sure the keepers are seated
properly in the retainers. Don't forget to oil the new seals when you put
them on.
Steve
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bujn7b$i1oes$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> What amount of PSI or compressor strength do I need to support the valves
> when I take the springs off?
>
> I see some advertised at 100 Max PSI. Is this enough?
>
> Comments, suggestions are welcome.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>
the volume of a larger compressor to maintain 100 psi, but that's unlikely.
I wouldn't try to do it with one of those little ones intended to inflate
tires only unless you can connect it to a large tank. If it can't put out
enough volume to keep up with the blowby (there's always some) pressure will
drop and so will the valve. You'll know as soon as you hook it up. If
you've never done this before a couple of notes.
Remove the rockers before applying air.
Be aware that when you plug the air in the engine is likely to turn over a
bit to move the piston to the bottom of the stroke so watch where your
hands, tools and cords are when you do this.
I make a habit of taking a hammer and tapping the top of the valve stem once
the air is holding them in place (springs still on) to ensure they're held
firmly. Then I remove the spring. A small pencil type magnet is handy for
getting the keepers out of the retainers once the spring is compressed,
especially if you've got fat fingers.
When reassembling , spring and keepers on and air removed take your hammer
and tap the top of the valves again to make sure the keepers are seated
properly in the retainers. Don't forget to oil the new seals when you put
them on.
Steve
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bujn7b$i1oes$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> What amount of PSI or compressor strength do I need to support the valves
> when I take the springs off?
>
> I see some advertised at 100 Max PSI. Is this enough?
>
> Comments, suggestions are welcome.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Compressor strength for supporting valves
100 psi is fine. If you've got bad blowby or leaking valves you made need
the volume of a larger compressor to maintain 100 psi, but that's unlikely.
I wouldn't try to do it with one of those little ones intended to inflate
tires only unless you can connect it to a large tank. If it can't put out
enough volume to keep up with the blowby (there's always some) pressure will
drop and so will the valve. You'll know as soon as you hook it up. If
you've never done this before a couple of notes.
Remove the rockers before applying air.
Be aware that when you plug the air in the engine is likely to turn over a
bit to move the piston to the bottom of the stroke so watch where your
hands, tools and cords are when you do this.
I make a habit of taking a hammer and tapping the top of the valve stem once
the air is holding them in place (springs still on) to ensure they're held
firmly. Then I remove the spring. A small pencil type magnet is handy for
getting the keepers out of the retainers once the spring is compressed,
especially if you've got fat fingers.
When reassembling , spring and keepers on and air removed take your hammer
and tap the top of the valves again to make sure the keepers are seated
properly in the retainers. Don't forget to oil the new seals when you put
them on.
Steve
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bujn7b$i1oes$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> What amount of PSI or compressor strength do I need to support the valves
> when I take the springs off?
>
> I see some advertised at 100 Max PSI. Is this enough?
>
> Comments, suggestions are welcome.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>
the volume of a larger compressor to maintain 100 psi, but that's unlikely.
I wouldn't try to do it with one of those little ones intended to inflate
tires only unless you can connect it to a large tank. If it can't put out
enough volume to keep up with the blowby (there's always some) pressure will
drop and so will the valve. You'll know as soon as you hook it up. If
you've never done this before a couple of notes.
Remove the rockers before applying air.
Be aware that when you plug the air in the engine is likely to turn over a
bit to move the piston to the bottom of the stroke so watch where your
hands, tools and cords are when you do this.
I make a habit of taking a hammer and tapping the top of the valve stem once
the air is holding them in place (springs still on) to ensure they're held
firmly. Then I remove the spring. A small pencil type magnet is handy for
getting the keepers out of the retainers once the spring is compressed,
especially if you've got fat fingers.
When reassembling , spring and keepers on and air removed take your hammer
and tap the top of the valves again to make sure the keepers are seated
properly in the retainers. Don't forget to oil the new seals when you put
them on.
Steve
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bujn7b$i1oes$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> What amount of PSI or compressor strength do I need to support the valves
> when I take the springs off?
>
> I see some advertised at 100 Max PSI. Is this enough?
>
> Comments, suggestions are welcome.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Compressor strength for supporting valves
Thanks for the tips Steve.
A question about the rockers. Are you talking about the rocker arm which
connects across between the valve and the other rod going down into the
engine or is the rocker the rod going down into the head opposite the valve?
If you are talking about the rod opposite the valve which goes down into the
head how do you remove this and why? Also, how do you replace it when done.
Thanks in advance,
Bill
"Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
news:91ePb.191732$X%5.57437@pd7tw2no...
> 100 psi is fine. If you've got bad blowby or leaking valves you made need
> the volume of a larger compressor to maintain 100 psi, but that's
unlikely.
> I wouldn't try to do it with one of those little ones intended to inflate
> tires only unless you can connect it to a large tank. If it can't put out
> enough volume to keep up with the blowby (there's always some) pressure
will
> drop and so will the valve. You'll know as soon as you hook it up. If
> you've never done this before a couple of notes.
> Remove the rockers before applying air.
> Be aware that when you plug the air in the engine is likely to turn over a
> bit to move the piston to the bottom of the stroke so watch where your
> hands, tools and cords are when you do this.
> I make a habit of taking a hammer and tapping the top of the valve stem
once
> the air is holding them in place (springs still on) to ensure they're held
> firmly. Then I remove the spring. A small pencil type magnet is handy for
> getting the keepers out of the retainers once the spring is compressed,
> especially if you've got fat fingers.
> When reassembling , spring and keepers on and air removed take your hammer
> and tap the top of the valves again to make sure the keepers are seated
> properly in the retainers. Don't forget to oil the new seals when you put
> them on.
> Steve
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:bujn7b$i1oes$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > What amount of PSI or compressor strength do I need to support the
valves
> > when I take the springs off?
> >
> > I see some advertised at 100 Max PSI. Is this enough?
> >
> > Comments, suggestions are welcome.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
>
>
A question about the rockers. Are you talking about the rocker arm which
connects across between the valve and the other rod going down into the
engine or is the rocker the rod going down into the head opposite the valve?
If you are talking about the rod opposite the valve which goes down into the
head how do you remove this and why? Also, how do you replace it when done.
Thanks in advance,
Bill
"Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
news:91ePb.191732$X%5.57437@pd7tw2no...
> 100 psi is fine. If you've got bad blowby or leaking valves you made need
> the volume of a larger compressor to maintain 100 psi, but that's
unlikely.
> I wouldn't try to do it with one of those little ones intended to inflate
> tires only unless you can connect it to a large tank. If it can't put out
> enough volume to keep up with the blowby (there's always some) pressure
will
> drop and so will the valve. You'll know as soon as you hook it up. If
> you've never done this before a couple of notes.
> Remove the rockers before applying air.
> Be aware that when you plug the air in the engine is likely to turn over a
> bit to move the piston to the bottom of the stroke so watch where your
> hands, tools and cords are when you do this.
> I make a habit of taking a hammer and tapping the top of the valve stem
once
> the air is holding them in place (springs still on) to ensure they're held
> firmly. Then I remove the spring. A small pencil type magnet is handy for
> getting the keepers out of the retainers once the spring is compressed,
> especially if you've got fat fingers.
> When reassembling , spring and keepers on and air removed take your hammer
> and tap the top of the valves again to make sure the keepers are seated
> properly in the retainers. Don't forget to oil the new seals when you put
> them on.
> Steve
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:bujn7b$i1oes$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > What amount of PSI or compressor strength do I need to support the
valves
> > when I take the springs off?
> >
> > I see some advertised at 100 Max PSI. Is this enough?
> >
> > Comments, suggestions are welcome.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
>
>
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Compressor strength for supporting valves
Thanks for the tips Steve.
A question about the rockers. Are you talking about the rocker arm which
connects across between the valve and the other rod going down into the
engine or is the rocker the rod going down into the head opposite the valve?
If you are talking about the rod opposite the valve which goes down into the
head how do you remove this and why? Also, how do you replace it when done.
Thanks in advance,
Bill
"Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
news:91ePb.191732$X%5.57437@pd7tw2no...
> 100 psi is fine. If you've got bad blowby or leaking valves you made need
> the volume of a larger compressor to maintain 100 psi, but that's
unlikely.
> I wouldn't try to do it with one of those little ones intended to inflate
> tires only unless you can connect it to a large tank. If it can't put out
> enough volume to keep up with the blowby (there's always some) pressure
will
> drop and so will the valve. You'll know as soon as you hook it up. If
> you've never done this before a couple of notes.
> Remove the rockers before applying air.
> Be aware that when you plug the air in the engine is likely to turn over a
> bit to move the piston to the bottom of the stroke so watch where your
> hands, tools and cords are when you do this.
> I make a habit of taking a hammer and tapping the top of the valve stem
once
> the air is holding them in place (springs still on) to ensure they're held
> firmly. Then I remove the spring. A small pencil type magnet is handy for
> getting the keepers out of the retainers once the spring is compressed,
> especially if you've got fat fingers.
> When reassembling , spring and keepers on and air removed take your hammer
> and tap the top of the valves again to make sure the keepers are seated
> properly in the retainers. Don't forget to oil the new seals when you put
> them on.
> Steve
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:bujn7b$i1oes$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > What amount of PSI or compressor strength do I need to support the
valves
> > when I take the springs off?
> >
> > I see some advertised at 100 Max PSI. Is this enough?
> >
> > Comments, suggestions are welcome.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
>
>
A question about the rockers. Are you talking about the rocker arm which
connects across between the valve and the other rod going down into the
engine or is the rocker the rod going down into the head opposite the valve?
If you are talking about the rod opposite the valve which goes down into the
head how do you remove this and why? Also, how do you replace it when done.
Thanks in advance,
Bill
"Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
news:91ePb.191732$X%5.57437@pd7tw2no...
> 100 psi is fine. If you've got bad blowby or leaking valves you made need
> the volume of a larger compressor to maintain 100 psi, but that's
unlikely.
> I wouldn't try to do it with one of those little ones intended to inflate
> tires only unless you can connect it to a large tank. If it can't put out
> enough volume to keep up with the blowby (there's always some) pressure
will
> drop and so will the valve. You'll know as soon as you hook it up. If
> you've never done this before a couple of notes.
> Remove the rockers before applying air.
> Be aware that when you plug the air in the engine is likely to turn over a
> bit to move the piston to the bottom of the stroke so watch where your
> hands, tools and cords are when you do this.
> I make a habit of taking a hammer and tapping the top of the valve stem
once
> the air is holding them in place (springs still on) to ensure they're held
> firmly. Then I remove the spring. A small pencil type magnet is handy for
> getting the keepers out of the retainers once the spring is compressed,
> especially if you've got fat fingers.
> When reassembling , spring and keepers on and air removed take your hammer
> and tap the top of the valves again to make sure the keepers are seated
> properly in the retainers. Don't forget to oil the new seals when you put
> them on.
> Steve
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:bujn7b$i1oes$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > What amount of PSI or compressor strength do I need to support the
valves
> > when I take the springs off?
> >
> > I see some advertised at 100 Max PSI. Is this enough?
> >
> > Comments, suggestions are welcome.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
>
>
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Compressor strength for supporting valves
Thanks for the tips Steve.
A question about the rockers. Are you talking about the rocker arm which
connects across between the valve and the other rod going down into the
engine or is the rocker the rod going down into the head opposite the valve?
If you are talking about the rod opposite the valve which goes down into the
head how do you remove this and why? Also, how do you replace it when done.
Thanks in advance,
Bill
"Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
news:91ePb.191732$X%5.57437@pd7tw2no...
> 100 psi is fine. If you've got bad blowby or leaking valves you made need
> the volume of a larger compressor to maintain 100 psi, but that's
unlikely.
> I wouldn't try to do it with one of those little ones intended to inflate
> tires only unless you can connect it to a large tank. If it can't put out
> enough volume to keep up with the blowby (there's always some) pressure
will
> drop and so will the valve. You'll know as soon as you hook it up. If
> you've never done this before a couple of notes.
> Remove the rockers before applying air.
> Be aware that when you plug the air in the engine is likely to turn over a
> bit to move the piston to the bottom of the stroke so watch where your
> hands, tools and cords are when you do this.
> I make a habit of taking a hammer and tapping the top of the valve stem
once
> the air is holding them in place (springs still on) to ensure they're held
> firmly. Then I remove the spring. A small pencil type magnet is handy for
> getting the keepers out of the retainers once the spring is compressed,
> especially if you've got fat fingers.
> When reassembling , spring and keepers on and air removed take your hammer
> and tap the top of the valves again to make sure the keepers are seated
> properly in the retainers. Don't forget to oil the new seals when you put
> them on.
> Steve
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:bujn7b$i1oes$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > What amount of PSI or compressor strength do I need to support the
valves
> > when I take the springs off?
> >
> > I see some advertised at 100 Max PSI. Is this enough?
> >
> > Comments, suggestions are welcome.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
>
>
A question about the rockers. Are you talking about the rocker arm which
connects across between the valve and the other rod going down into the
engine or is the rocker the rod going down into the head opposite the valve?
If you are talking about the rod opposite the valve which goes down into the
head how do you remove this and why? Also, how do you replace it when done.
Thanks in advance,
Bill
"Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
news:91ePb.191732$X%5.57437@pd7tw2no...
> 100 psi is fine. If you've got bad blowby or leaking valves you made need
> the volume of a larger compressor to maintain 100 psi, but that's
unlikely.
> I wouldn't try to do it with one of those little ones intended to inflate
> tires only unless you can connect it to a large tank. If it can't put out
> enough volume to keep up with the blowby (there's always some) pressure
will
> drop and so will the valve. You'll know as soon as you hook it up. If
> you've never done this before a couple of notes.
> Remove the rockers before applying air.
> Be aware that when you plug the air in the engine is likely to turn over a
> bit to move the piston to the bottom of the stroke so watch where your
> hands, tools and cords are when you do this.
> I make a habit of taking a hammer and tapping the top of the valve stem
once
> the air is holding them in place (springs still on) to ensure they're held
> firmly. Then I remove the spring. A small pencil type magnet is handy for
> getting the keepers out of the retainers once the spring is compressed,
> especially if you've got fat fingers.
> When reassembling , spring and keepers on and air removed take your hammer
> and tap the top of the valves again to make sure the keepers are seated
> properly in the retainers. Don't forget to oil the new seals when you put
> them on.
> Steve
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:bujn7b$i1oes$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > What amount of PSI or compressor strength do I need to support the
valves
> > when I take the springs off?
> >
> > I see some advertised at 100 Max PSI. Is this enough?
> >
> > Comments, suggestions are welcome.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
>
>