I'm moving this weekend.. and getting a great place to work on the CJ. I'm
going to rebuild the carb, and replace the gaskets,etc. This thing was
'worked' on by a shitbag (that's his given name---by me) a year ago, but I
don't trust his work. If the Jeep sits for a week.. it takes 10+ pumps of
the accelerator pedal to get it to start up... then it dies. Five more
pumps... then it runs. I have to keep pumping it for about 3 minutes before
it will run on it's own.

Ideas there?

So, my thoughts:

Fix the damn choke. I don't think it is doing its job. Anyone know the
parts necessary (I saw this thread w/ Joe.. I'll go read it now :)) for the
choke? I want to 'try' to use the electric choke... before moving to the
manual. I'm guessing a diaphram of some sort is necessary.

I saw the guy break off a few coils of the accelerator coil spring... and
bend it again.. is that a problem? Should I buy a new one?

The throttle linkage doesn't have a screw on the sol-vac (think that's what
it is) ..do I need that, or does the Nutter Bypass take care of it for me.
For more info.. if you are looking at the throttle linkage from the driver's
side of the engine.. the left-most (front of engine) 'wing' of the linkage
has a screw... it hits the sol-vac ... I don't have that screw ?!

Ok.. on to the parts list:

What gasket set do I need for the carb? Does that include bushing for the
throttle linkage? What about the choke? Gasket? Diaphram? I plan on
replacing the fuel filter.. I just replaced the spark plugs, wires,
distributor cab, rotor, water pump, thermostat, ..etc etc etc. All of that
is in order. What tools do I need? anything special? I have all the
normal stuff. I'm going to go ahead and get a 1/32 bit ..and clean out the
idle tubes...

Thanks for reading..

:)

Billy

 

OH yeah.. more questions. What should I clean that thing in? It is
obvious that I haven't done this before.. but I am going to remove it from
the manifold, and work on the a counter with a sink. I have a can of
choke/carb cleaner.. .what should I use? Maybe a painters' roller pan? I
have some anti-seize stuff too.. use that on the choke plate..and linkage?
Should I use something on the bolts when I put the carb back on the manifold
to keep them from backing out?


Thanks again.. :)


Billy
"Billy Tolcher" <btolcher@sc.xxxrr.com> wrote in message
news:QFiYa.5166$2x.213777@twister.southeast.rr.com ...
> I'm moving this weekend.. and getting a great place to work on the CJ.
I'm
> going to rebuild the carb, and replace the gaskets,etc. This thing was
> 'worked' on by a shitbag (that's his given name---by me) a year ago, but I
> don't trust his work. If the Jeep sits for a week.. it takes 10+ pumps
of
> the accelerator pedal to get it to start up... then it dies. Five more
> pumps... then it runs. I have to keep pumping it for about 3 minutes
before
> it will run on it's own.
>
> Ideas there?
>
> So, my thoughts:
>
> Fix the damn choke. I don't think it is doing its job. Anyone know the
> parts necessary (I saw this thread w/ Joe.. I'll go read it now :)) for
the
> choke? I want to 'try' to use the electric choke... before moving to the
> manual. I'm guessing a diaphram of some sort is necessary.
>
> I saw the guy break off a few coils of the accelerator coil spring... and
> bend it again.. is that a problem? Should I buy a new one?
>
> The throttle linkage doesn't have a screw on the sol-vac (think that's
what
> it is) ..do I need that, or does the Nutter Bypass take care of it for me.
> For more info.. if you are looking at the throttle linkage from the
driver's
> side of the engine.. the left-most (front of engine) 'wing' of the linkage
> has a screw... it hits the sol-vac ... I don't have that screw ?!
>
> Ok.. on to the parts list:
>
> What gasket set do I need for the carb? Does that include bushing for the
> throttle linkage? What about the choke? Gasket? Diaphram? I plan on
> replacing the fuel filter.. I just replaced the spark plugs, wires,
> distributor cab, rotor, water pump, thermostat, ..etc etc etc. All of
that
> is in order. What tools do I need? anything special? I have all the
> normal stuff. I'm going to go ahead and get a 1/32 bit ..and clean out
the
> idle tubes...
>
> Thanks for reading..
>
> :)
>
> Billy
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

 

Have you checked your fuel lines? Could be that when you shut the truck off
you are losing all the pressure in the fuel system and it takes those extra
revolutions to get the mechanical fuel pump to pressurize the system again.
I had the same problem then I replaced the fuel line and it rectified it.
that was until I broke one of the return lines when I was doing the brake
lines and the problem started again.....

Jay
84 CJ7
33x12.5 MTR's


"Billy Tolcher" <btolcher@sc.xxxrr.com> wrote in message
news:QFiYa.5166$2x.213777@twister.southeast.rr.com ...
> I'm moving this weekend.. and getting a great place to work on the CJ.
I'm
> going to rebuild the carb, and replace the gaskets,etc. This thing was
> 'worked' on by a shitbag (that's his given name---by me) a year ago, but I
> don't trust his work. If the Jeep sits for a week.. it takes 10+ pumps
of
> the accelerator pedal to get it to start up... then it dies. Five more
> pumps... then it runs. I have to keep pumping it for about 3 minutes
before
> it will run on it's own.
>
> Ideas there?
>
> So, my thoughts:
>
> Fix the damn choke. I don't think it is doing its job. Anyone know the
> parts necessary (I saw this thread w/ Joe.. I'll go read it now :)) for
the
> choke? I want to 'try' to use the electric choke... before moving to the
> manual. I'm guessing a diaphram of some sort is necessary.
>
> I saw the guy break off a few coils of the accelerator coil spring... and
> bend it again.. is that a problem? Should I buy a new one?
>
> The throttle linkage doesn't have a screw on the sol-vac (think that's
what
> it is) ..do I need that, or does the Nutter Bypass take care of it for me.
> For more info.. if you are looking at the throttle linkage from the
driver's
> side of the engine.. the left-most (front of engine) 'wing' of the linkage
> has a screw... it hits the sol-vac ... I don't have that screw ?!
>
> Ok.. on to the parts list:
>
> What gasket set do I need for the carb? Does that include bushing for the
> throttle linkage? What about the choke? Gasket? Diaphram? I plan on
> replacing the fuel filter.. I just replaced the spark plugs, wires,
> distributor cab, rotor, water pump, thermostat, ..etc etc etc. All of
that
> is in order. What tools do I need? anything special? I have all the
> normal stuff. I'm going to go ahead and get a 1/32 bit ..and clean out
the
> idle tubes...
>
> Thanks for reading..
>
> :)
>
> Billy
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

 

Yeah.. I have thought about that. I don't know anything about it at this
point. I am going to bottom of it when I get into the garage. A lot of
work went into the fuel system before I got the thing. I am going to
replace the filter, and the line from the filter upward. If that doesn't
fix it.. I'm going to start heading back down the line from the filter...

Boooo

Billy

--Getting excited about owning this Gem now that I can work on it again.

:)


"Johnathan Marrin" <johnathanmarrin@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:oWiYa.118278$rsJ.13875@news04.bloor.is.net.ca ble.rogers.com...
> Have you checked your fuel lines? Could be that when you shut the truck
off
> you are losing all the pressure in the fuel system and it takes those
extra
> revolutions to get the mechanical fuel pump to pressurize the system
again.
> I had the same problem then I replaced the fuel line and it rectified it.
> that was until I broke one of the return lines when I was doing the brake
> lines and the problem started again.....
>
> Jay
> 84 CJ7
> 33x12.5 MTR's
>
>
> "Billy Tolcher" <btolcher@sc.xxxrr.com> wrote in message
> news:QFiYa.5166$2x.213777@twister.southeast.rr.com ...
> > I'm moving this weekend.. and getting a great place to work on the CJ.
> I'm
> > going to rebuild the carb, and replace the gaskets,etc. This thing was
> > 'worked' on by a shitbag (that's his given name---by me) a year ago, but
I
> > don't trust his work. If the Jeep sits for a week.. it takes 10+ pumps
> of
> > the accelerator pedal to get it to start up... then it dies. Five more
> > pumps... then it runs. I have to keep pumping it for about 3 minutes
> before
> > it will run on it's own.
> >
> > Ideas there?
> >
> > So, my thoughts:
> >
> > Fix the damn choke. I don't think it is doing its job. Anyone know the
> > parts necessary (I saw this thread w/ Joe.. I'll go read it now :)) for
> the
> > choke? I want to 'try' to use the electric choke... before moving to
the
> > manual. I'm guessing a diaphram of some sort is necessary.
> >
> > I saw the guy break off a few coils of the accelerator coil spring...
and
> > bend it again.. is that a problem? Should I buy a new one?
> >
> > The throttle linkage doesn't have a screw on the sol-vac (think that's
> what
> > it is) ..do I need that, or does the Nutter Bypass take care of it for
me.
> > For more info.. if you are looking at the throttle linkage from the
> driver's
> > side of the engine.. the left-most (front of engine) 'wing' of the
linkage
> > has a screw... it hits the sol-vac ... I don't have that screw ?!
> >
> > Ok.. on to the parts list:
> >
> > What gasket set do I need for the carb? Does that include bushing for
the
> > throttle linkage? What about the choke? Gasket? Diaphram? I plan on
> > replacing the fuel filter.. I just replaced the spark plugs, wires,
> > distributor cab, rotor, water pump, thermostat, ..etc etc etc. All of
> that
> > is in order. What tools do I need? anything special? I have all the
> > normal stuff. I'm going to go ahead and get a 1/32 bit ..and clean out
> the
> > idle tubes...
> >
> > Thanks for reading..
> >
> > :)
> >
> > Billy
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>

 

I can toss some ideas at you.

First off, get a carb kit. They cost about $20.00 and come with all the
gaskets and a new float needle and seat, an accelerator pump and good
directions.

I use a half of an old antifreeze or oil jug as my soaking bin and use
carb cleaner spray on the parts in the bin and the carb itself.

Pay close attention to the idle tubes, they usually need to be
physically reamed at the crimped end to get them clean. Oversizing them
slightly helps too. I use a welding tip cleaning tool for this. See:

http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/engine/carter.html

The choke is a bi-metal spring that is 'normally' closed until 12 volts
hits it, then it unwinds opening the choke.

Having to crank and pump the crap out of it after it sits is a symptom
of either the gas filter being in upside down or a pin hole in the gas
line on the suction side of the pump. Filter in upside down is real
common. The filter has two outlets, the center one goes to the carb and
the Top one goes to the return line. If the return line isn't at the
top, then gas will syphon back to the tank when it sits air locking the
pump.

The 'modified' spring on the linkage should be no problem.

The sol vac only has a screw in it if you have an automatic or AC,
otherwise it is not needed and yes, the Nutter will kill it if it was in
use so you need to set the idle rpm accordingly. When in drive on an
auto or when the AC comes on, it might need to be upped a bit.

One tip on carb cleaning. If you don't need to unscrew something to
clean it, don't. If it has decent performance normally, the settings
inside are ok, so put them back the same rather than trying to adjust
everything the carb kit instructions 'say' can be adjusted.

Things like the new float needle and the new accelerator pump will need
to be adjusted.

Good luck,

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Billy Tolcher wrote:
>
> I'm moving this weekend.. and getting a great place to work on the CJ. I'm
> going to rebuild the carb, and replace the gaskets,etc. This thing was
> 'worked' on by a shitbag (that's his given name---by me) a year ago, but I
> don't trust his work. If the Jeep sits for a week.. it takes 10+ pumps of
> the accelerator pedal to get it to start up... then it dies. Five more
> pumps... then it runs. I have to keep pumping it for about 3 minutes before
> it will run on it's own.
>
> Ideas there?
>
> So, my thoughts:
>
> Fix the damn choke. I don't think it is doing its job. Anyone know the
> parts necessary (I saw this thread w/ Joe.. I'll go read it now :)) for the
> choke? I want to 'try' to use the electric choke... before moving to the
> manual. I'm guessing a diaphram of some sort is necessary.
>
> I saw the guy break off a few coils of the accelerator coil spring... and
> bend it again.. is that a problem? Should I buy a new one?
>
> The throttle linkage doesn't have a screw on the sol-vac (think that's what
> it is) ..do I need that, or does the Nutter Bypass take care of it for me.
> For more info.. if you are looking at the throttle linkage from the driver's
> side of the engine.. the left-most (front of engine) 'wing' of the linkage
> has a screw... it hits the sol-vac ... I don't have that screw ?!
>
> Ok.. on to the parts list:
>
> What gasket set do I need for the carb? Does that include bushing for the
> throttle linkage? What about the choke? Gasket? Diaphram? I plan on
> replacing the fuel filter.. I just replaced the spark plugs, wires,
> distributor cab, rotor, water pump, thermostat, ..etc etc etc. All of that
> is in order. What tools do I need? anything special? I have all the
> normal stuff. I'm going to go ahead and get a 1/32 bit ..and clean out the
> idle tubes...
>
> Thanks for reading..
>
> :)
>
> Billy

 

Thanks, Mike. I appreciate it.

:)

Should I use some antiseize anything? .. or something on the bolts to kee
them from back out?

Thanks!

Billy

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3F3274EC.D1FA239A@sympatico.ca...
> I can toss some ideas at you.
>
> First off, get a carb kit. They cost about $20.00 and come with all the
> gaskets and a new float needle and seat, an accelerator pump and good
> directions.
>
> I use a half of an old antifreeze or oil jug as my soaking bin and use
> carb cleaner spray on the parts in the bin and the carb itself.
>
> Pay close attention to the idle tubes, they usually need to be
> physically reamed at the crimped end to get them clean. Oversizing them
> slightly helps too. I use a welding tip cleaning tool for this. See:
>
> http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/engine/carter.html
>
> The choke is a bi-metal spring that is 'normally' closed until 12 volts
> hits it, then it unwinds opening the choke.
>
> Having to crank and pump the crap out of it after it sits is a symptom
> of either the gas filter being in upside down or a pin hole in the gas
> line on the suction side of the pump. Filter in upside down is real
> common. The filter has two outlets, the center one goes to the carb and
> the Top one goes to the return line. If the return line isn't at the
> top, then gas will syphon back to the tank when it sits air locking the
> pump.
>
> The 'modified' spring on the linkage should be no problem.
>
> The sol vac only has a screw in it if you have an automatic or AC,
> otherwise it is not needed and yes, the Nutter will kill it if it was in
> use so you need to set the idle rpm accordingly. When in drive on an
> auto or when the AC comes on, it might need to be upped a bit.
>
> One tip on carb cleaning. If you don't need to unscrew something to
> clean it, don't. If it has decent performance normally, the settings
> inside are ok, so put them back the same rather than trying to adjust
> everything the carb kit instructions 'say' can be adjusted.
>
> Things like the new float needle and the new accelerator pump will need
> to be adjusted.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Billy Tolcher wrote:
> >
> > I'm moving this weekend.. and getting a great place to work on the CJ.
I'm
> > going to rebuild the carb, and replace the gaskets,etc. This thing was
> > 'worked' on by a shitbag (that's his given name---by me) a year ago, but
I
> > don't trust his work. If the Jeep sits for a week.. it takes 10+ pumps
of
> > the accelerator pedal to get it to start up... then it dies. Five more
> > pumps... then it runs. I have to keep pumping it for about 3 minutes
before
> > it will run on it's own.
> >
> > Ideas there?
> >
> > So, my thoughts:
> >
> > Fix the damn choke. I don't think it is doing its job. Anyone know the
> > parts necessary (I saw this thread w/ Joe.. I'll go read it now :)) for
the
> > choke? I want to 'try' to use the electric choke... before moving to
the
> > manual. I'm guessing a diaphram of some sort is necessary.
> >
> > I saw the guy break off a few coils of the accelerator coil spring...
and
> > bend it again.. is that a problem? Should I buy a new one?
> >
> > The throttle linkage doesn't have a screw on the sol-vac (think that's
what
> > it is) ..do I need that, or does the Nutter Bypass take care of it for
me.
> > For more info.. if you are looking at the throttle linkage from the
driver's
> > side of the engine.. the left-most (front of engine) 'wing' of the
linkage
> > has a screw... it hits the sol-vac ... I don't have that screw ?!
> >
> > Ok.. on to the parts list:
> >
> > What gasket set do I need for the carb? Does that include bushing for
the
> > throttle linkage? What about the choke? Gasket? Diaphram? I plan on
> > replacing the fuel filter.. I just replaced the spark plugs, wires,
> > distributor cab, rotor, water pump, thermostat, ..etc etc etc. All of
that
> > is in order. What tools do I need? anything special? I have all the
> > normal stuff. I'm going to go ahead and get a 1/32 bit ..and clean out
the
> > idle tubes...
> >
> > Thanks for reading..
> >
> > :)
> >
> > Billy

 

I find you sometimes have to retighten the carb base plate's 4 nuts down
once a couple days after the job, but other than that, no real need for
any thread treatment.

Oh, while doing the job, I 'highly' recommend you also clean out the gas
line from the filter to the carb. It has a dip in it that collects junk
and it will get disturbed when doing the job. This can mean a plugged
idle tub a week after it is done. At least the venturi cluster with the
idle tubes can be pulled out from the top for a quick clean if needed
down the road.

Mike

Billy Tolcher wrote:
>
> Thanks, Mike. I appreciate it.
>
> :)
>
> Should I use some antiseize anything? .. or something on the bolts to kee
> them from back out?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Billy
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:3F3274EC.D1FA239A@sympatico.ca...
> > I can toss some ideas at you.
> >
> > First off, get a carb kit. They cost about $20.00 and come with all the
> > gaskets and a new float needle and seat, an accelerator pump and good
> > directions.
> >
> > I use a half of an old antifreeze or oil jug as my soaking bin and use
> > carb cleaner spray on the parts in the bin and the carb itself.
> >
> > Pay close attention to the idle tubes, they usually need to be
> > physically reamed at the crimped end to get them clean. Oversizing them
> > slightly helps too. I use a welding tip cleaning tool for this. See:
> >
> > http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/engine/carter.html
> >
> > The choke is a bi-metal spring that is 'normally' closed until 12 volts
> > hits it, then it unwinds opening the choke.
> >
> > Having to crank and pump the crap out of it after it sits is a symptom
> > of either the gas filter being in upside down or a pin hole in the gas
> > line on the suction side of the pump. Filter in upside down is real
> > common. The filter has two outlets, the center one goes to the carb and
> > the Top one goes to the return line. If the return line isn't at the
> > top, then gas will syphon back to the tank when it sits air locking the
> > pump.
> >
> > The 'modified' spring on the linkage should be no problem.
> >
> > The sol vac only has a screw in it if you have an automatic or AC,
> > otherwise it is not needed and yes, the Nutter will kill it if it was in
> > use so you need to set the idle rpm accordingly. When in drive on an
> > auto or when the AC comes on, it might need to be upped a bit.
> >
> > One tip on carb cleaning. If you don't need to unscrew something to
> > clean it, don't. If it has decent performance normally, the settings
> > inside are ok, so put them back the same rather than trying to adjust
> > everything the carb kit instructions 'say' can be adjusted.
> >
> > Things like the new float needle and the new accelerator pump will need
> > to be adjusted.
> >
> > Good luck,
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Billy Tolcher wrote:
> > >
> > > I'm moving this weekend.. and getting a great place to work on the CJ.
> I'm
> > > going to rebuild the carb, and replace the gaskets,etc. This thing was
> > > 'worked' on by a shitbag (that's his given name---by me) a year ago, but
> I
> > > don't trust his work. If the Jeep sits for a week.. it takes 10+ pumps
> of
> > > the accelerator pedal to get it to start up... then it dies. Five more
> > > pumps... then it runs. I have to keep pumping it for about 3 minutes
> before
> > > it will run on it's own.
> > >
> > > Ideas there?
> > >
> > > So, my thoughts:
> > >
> > > Fix the damn choke. I don't think it is doing its job. Anyone know the
> > > parts necessary (I saw this thread w/ Joe.. I'll go read it now :)) for
> the
> > > choke? I want to 'try' to use the electric choke... before moving to
> the
> > > manual. I'm guessing a diaphram of some sort is necessary.
> > >
> > > I saw the guy break off a few coils of the accelerator coil spring...
> and
> > > bend it again.. is that a problem? Should I buy a new one?
> > >
> > > The throttle linkage doesn't have a screw on the sol-vac (think that's
> what
> > > it is) ..do I need that, or does the Nutter Bypass take care of it for
> me.
> > > For more info.. if you are looking at the throttle linkage from the
> driver's
> > > side of the engine.. the left-most (front of engine) 'wing' of the
> linkage
> > > has a screw... it hits the sol-vac ... I don't have that screw ?!
> > >
> > > Ok.. on to the parts list:
> > >
> > > What gasket set do I need for the carb? Does that include bushing for
> the
> > > throttle linkage? What about the choke? Gasket? Diaphram? I plan on
> > > replacing the fuel filter.. I just replaced the spark plugs, wires,
> > > distributor cab, rotor, water pump, thermostat, ..etc etc etc. All of
> that
> > > is in order. What tools do I need? anything special? I have all the
> > > normal stuff. I'm going to go ahead and get a 1/32 bit ..and clean out
> the
> > > idle tubes...
> > >
> > > Thanks for reading..
> > >
> > > :)
> > >
> > > Billy

 

Cool...

Thanks!

Billy


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3F32854F.C40C9B7A@sympatico.ca...
> I find you sometimes have to retighten the carb base plate's 4 nuts down
> once a couple days after the job, but other than that, no real need for
> any thread treatment.
>
> Oh, while doing the job, I 'highly' recommend you also clean out the gas
> line from the filter to the carb. It has a dip in it that collects junk
> and it will get disturbed when doing the job. This can mean a plugged
> idle tub a week after it is done. At least the venturi cluster with the
> idle tubes can be pulled out from the top for a quick clean if needed
> down the road.
>
> Mike
>
> Billy Tolcher wrote:
> >
> > Thanks, Mike. I appreciate it.
> >
> > :)
> >
> > Should I use some antiseize anything? .. or something on the bolts to
kee
> > them from back out?
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Billy
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:3F3274EC.D1FA239A@sympatico.ca...
> > > I can toss some ideas at you.
> > >
> > > First off, get a carb kit. They cost about $20.00 and come with all
the
> > > gaskets and a new float needle and seat, an accelerator pump and good
> > > directions.
> > >
> > > I use a half of an old antifreeze or oil jug as my soaking bin and use
> > > carb cleaner spray on the parts in the bin and the carb itself.
> > >
> > > Pay close attention to the idle tubes, they usually need to be
> > > physically reamed at the crimped end to get them clean. Oversizing
them
> > > slightly helps too. I use a welding tip cleaning tool for this. See:
> > >
> > > http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/engine/carter.html
> > >
> > > The choke is a bi-metal spring that is 'normally' closed until 12
volts
> > > hits it, then it unwinds opening the choke.
> > >
> > > Having to crank and pump the crap out of it after it sits is a symptom
> > > of either the gas filter being in upside down or a pin hole in the gas
> > > line on the suction side of the pump. Filter in upside down is real
> > > common. The filter has two outlets, the center one goes to the carb
and
> > > the Top one goes to the return line. If the return line isn't at the
> > > top, then gas will syphon back to the tank when it sits air locking
the
> > > pump.
> > >
> > > The 'modified' spring on the linkage should be no problem.
> > >
> > > The sol vac only has a screw in it if you have an automatic or AC,
> > > otherwise it is not needed and yes, the Nutter will kill it if it was
in
> > > use so you need to set the idle rpm accordingly. When in drive on an
> > > auto or when the AC comes on, it might need to be upped a bit.
> > >
> > > One tip on carb cleaning. If you don't need to unscrew something to
> > > clean it, don't. If it has decent performance normally, the settings
> > > inside are ok, so put them back the same rather than trying to adjust
> > > everything the carb kit instructions 'say' can be adjusted.
> > >
> > > Things like the new float needle and the new accelerator pump will
need
> > > to be adjusted.
> > >
> > > Good luck,
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > Billy Tolcher wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I'm moving this weekend.. and getting a great place to work on the
CJ.
> > I'm
> > > > going to rebuild the carb, and replace the gaskets,etc. This thing
was
> > > > 'worked' on by a shitbag (that's his given name---by me) a year ago,
but
> > I
> > > > don't trust his work. If the Jeep sits for a week.. it takes 10+
pumps
> > of
> > > > the accelerator pedal to get it to start up... then it dies. Five
more
> > > > pumps... then it runs. I have to keep pumping it for about 3
minutes
> > before
> > > > it will run on it's own.
> > > >
> > > > Ideas there?
> > > >
> > > > So, my thoughts:
> > > >
> > > > Fix the damn choke. I don't think it is doing its job. Anyone know
the
> > > > parts necessary (I saw this thread w/ Joe.. I'll go read it now :))
for
> > the
> > > > choke? I want to 'try' to use the electric choke... before moving
to
> > the
> > > > manual. I'm guessing a diaphram of some sort is necessary.
> > > >
> > > > I saw the guy break off a few coils of the accelerator coil
spring...
> > and
> > > > bend it again.. is that a problem? Should I buy a new one?
> > > >
> > > > The throttle linkage doesn't have a screw on the sol-vac (think
that's
> > what
> > > > it is) ..do I need that, or does the Nutter Bypass take care of it
for
> > me.
> > > > For more info.. if you are looking at the throttle linkage from the
> > driver's
> > > > side of the engine.. the left-most (front of engine) 'wing' of the
> > linkage
> > > > has a screw... it hits the sol-vac ... I don't have that screw ?!
> > > >
> > > > Ok.. on to the parts list:
> > > >
> > > > What gasket set do I need for the carb? Does that include bushing
for
> > the
> > > > throttle linkage? What about the choke? Gasket? Diaphram? I
plan on
> > > > replacing the fuel filter.. I just replaced the spark plugs, wires,
> > > > distributor cab, rotor, water pump, thermostat, ..etc etc etc. All
of
> > that
> > > > is in order. What tools do I need? anything special? I have all
the
> > > > normal stuff. I'm going to go ahead and get a 1/32 bit ..and clean
out
> > the
> > > > idle tubes...
> > > >
> > > > Thanks for reading..
> > > >
> > > > :)
> > > >
> > > > Billy