This will be my first try at changing my differential lube.
The year 2000 Jeep service manual I have says to use "flushing" oil to
clean out the case.

What's flushing oil?

I have the special friction modifier additive for the rear diff and
Quaker State synthetic SAE 75w-140GL-5
and silicone sealent.

I was hoping I could cheat a bit and not remove the diff covers and
pump out the old oil (suction gun) rather than break the existing cover
plate silicone seal.

Any comments on this procedure please advise me.

Also how do I remove the old silicone sealent from the metal surfaces.
>From what I know about silcone glue you can never get it off. Scrapeing
only makes the layer thinner but never actually removes the glue.

Any tips or tricks would be much apreciated I was hoping I wouldn't get
lub running down to elbows like when I changed the oil in the manual
transmission.

 

For the first time, I recommend opening and cleaning it out to get any
chunks of break in metal out. After that you can pump it out.

I have the best luck for no leaks with RTV 'sensor safe' silicone by
leaving it to cure for the 24 hours like the directions say before
filling them with oil. I use a razor blade for cleaning the old stuff,
but you can get some spray gasket remover that is supposed to work
well.

Note: You cannot use normal silicone anywhere near the newer vehicles.
If the O2 sensors comes within smelling distance, they are dead.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

greenjoytj wrote:
>
> This will be my first try at changing my differential lube.
> The year 2000 Jeep service manual I have says to use "flushing" oil to
> clean out the case.
>
> What's flushing oil?
>
> I have the special friction modifier additive for the rear diff and
> Quaker State synthetic SAE 75w-140GL-5
> and silicone sealent.
>
> I was hoping I could cheat a bit and not remove the diff covers and
> pump out the old oil (suction gun) rather than break the existing cover
> plate silicone seal.
>
> Any comments on this procedure please advise me.
>
> Also how do I remove the old silicone sealent from the metal surfaces.
> >From what I know about silcone glue you can never get it off. Scrapeing
> only makes the layer thinner but never actually removes the glue.
>
> Any tips or tricks would be much apreciated I was hoping I wouldn't get
> lub running down to elbows like when I changed the oil in the manual
> transmission.

 

For the first time, I recommend opening and cleaning it out to get any
chunks of break in metal out. After that you can pump it out.

I have the best luck for no leaks with RTV 'sensor safe' silicone by
leaving it to cure for the 24 hours like the directions say before
filling them with oil. I use a razor blade for cleaning the old stuff,
but you can get some spray gasket remover that is supposed to work
well.

Note: You cannot use normal silicone anywhere near the newer vehicles.
If the O2 sensors comes within smelling distance, they are dead.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

greenjoytj wrote:
>
> This will be my first try at changing my differential lube.
> The year 2000 Jeep service manual I have says to use "flushing" oil to
> clean out the case.
>
> What's flushing oil?
>
> I have the special friction modifier additive for the rear diff and
> Quaker State synthetic SAE 75w-140GL-5
> and silicone sealent.
>
> I was hoping I could cheat a bit and not remove the diff covers and
> pump out the old oil (suction gun) rather than break the existing cover
> plate silicone seal.
>
> Any comments on this procedure please advise me.
>
> Also how do I remove the old silicone sealent from the metal surfaces.
> >From what I know about silcone glue you can never get it off. Scrapeing
> only makes the layer thinner but never actually removes the glue.
>
> Any tips or tricks would be much apreciated I was hoping I wouldn't get
> lub running down to elbows like when I changed the oil in the manual
> transmission.

 

For the first time, I recommend opening and cleaning it out to get any
chunks of break in metal out. After that you can pump it out.

I have the best luck for no leaks with RTV 'sensor safe' silicone by
leaving it to cure for the 24 hours like the directions say before
filling them with oil. I use a razor blade for cleaning the old stuff,
but you can get some spray gasket remover that is supposed to work
well.

Note: You cannot use normal silicone anywhere near the newer vehicles.
If the O2 sensors comes within smelling distance, they are dead.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

greenjoytj wrote:
>
> This will be my first try at changing my differential lube.
> The year 2000 Jeep service manual I have says to use "flushing" oil to
> clean out the case.
>
> What's flushing oil?
>
> I have the special friction modifier additive for the rear diff and
> Quaker State synthetic SAE 75w-140GL-5
> and silicone sealent.
>
> I was hoping I could cheat a bit and not remove the diff covers and
> pump out the old oil (suction gun) rather than break the existing cover
> plate silicone seal.
>
> Any comments on this procedure please advise me.
>
> Also how do I remove the old silicone sealent from the metal surfaces.
> >From what I know about silcone glue you can never get it off. Scrapeing
> only makes the layer thinner but never actually removes the glue.
>
> Any tips or tricks would be much apreciated I was hoping I wouldn't get
> lub running down to elbows like when I changed the oil in the manual
> transmission.