> I am going to be adjusting the front wheel bearings on my 86 cj7 with warn
manual hubs ....<

Depends what the condition of the bearings are once you get it all apart and
cleaned up. Probably a good idea to strip it down first and make your parts
list from there. You'll need seals for sure.

It should have two jam nuts to hold the bearing adj. You tighten the inner
one to 50ft lbs to seat the bearing, then back it off 1/6th of a turn. You
then run the outer jam nut down and torque to 50ft lbs, being careful not to
turn the inner one.

 

> I am going to be adjusting the front wheel bearings on my 86 cj7 with warn
manual hubs ....<

Depends what the condition of the bearings are once you get it all apart and
cleaned up. Probably a good idea to strip it down first and make your parts
list from there. You'll need seals for sure.

It should have two jam nuts to hold the bearing adj. You tighten the inner
one to 50ft lbs to seat the bearing, then back it off 1/6th of a turn. You
then run the outer jam nut down and torque to 50ft lbs, being careful not to
turn the inner one.

 

> I am going to be adjusting the front wheel bearings on my 86 cj7 with warn
manual hubs ....<

Depends what the condition of the bearings are once you get it all apart and
cleaned up. Probably a good idea to strip it down first and make your parts
list from there. You'll need seals for sure.

It should have two jam nuts to hold the bearing adj. You tighten the inner
one to 50ft lbs to seat the bearing, then back it off 1/6th of a turn. You
then run the outer jam nut down and torque to 50ft lbs, being careful not to
turn the inner one.

 

I am going to be adjusting the front wheel bearings on my 86 cj7 with warn
manual hubs because there is some play in them. what I am wondering is there
anything that I should replace while I am in there? or anything I should buy
at the auto part store before I open it up? is it a easy job? the only other
wheel bearings I have done where on a utility trailer and all I did was
tighten the nut till the wheel stopped spinning and then backed up the nut
to the next whole and put the cotter pin in it. is this adjustment the same
thing? thanks carmine

 

Jet (jet@bestweb.net) wrote on Saturday 22 November 2003 09:10 am:

> I am going to be adjusting the front wheel bearings on my 86 cj7 with warn
> manual hubs because there is some play in them. what I am wondering is
> there anything that I should replace while I am in there? or anything I
> should buy at the auto part store before I open it up? is it a easy job?
> the only other wheel bearings I have done where on a utility trailer and
> all I did was tighten the nut till the wheel stopped spinning and then
> backed up the nut to the next whole and put the cotter pin in it. is this
> adjustment the same
> thing? thanks carmine

Carmine,

I just finished my last week, so it's all still pretty fresh.

It's pretty straight forward. If you're not short on cash, you can go buy
both the inner and outer bearings for both sides, and return the ones you
don't use. Even the lifetime warranty, made in USA ones are only about $8
each or so. If the original bearings are still there, you'll probably have
to replace them. You can tap the races in and out with block of wood.

You'll also need two inner seals, as you can't get the inner bearing out
without removing the seal. Some grease, and some degreaser (I usually ned
up using brake cleaner). You may also want to buy the special socket to
drive the nuts. It's about $10 or so on-line - I couldn't torque mine
correctly without it.

It's also a good time to inspect your brakes.

I believe there's another post that accurately describes the torquing of the
nuts.
--
Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer, 1891

 

Jet (jet@bestweb.net) wrote on Saturday 22 November 2003 09:10 am:

> I am going to be adjusting the front wheel bearings on my 86 cj7 with warn
> manual hubs because there is some play in them. what I am wondering is
> there anything that I should replace while I am in there? or anything I
> should buy at the auto part store before I open it up? is it a easy job?
> the only other wheel bearings I have done where on a utility trailer and
> all I did was tighten the nut till the wheel stopped spinning and then
> backed up the nut to the next whole and put the cotter pin in it. is this
> adjustment the same
> thing? thanks carmine

Carmine,

I just finished my last week, so it's all still pretty fresh.

It's pretty straight forward. If you're not short on cash, you can go buy
both the inner and outer bearings for both sides, and return the ones you
don't use. Even the lifetime warranty, made in USA ones are only about $8
each or so. If the original bearings are still there, you'll probably have
to replace them. You can tap the races in and out with block of wood.

You'll also need two inner seals, as you can't get the inner bearing out
without removing the seal. Some grease, and some degreaser (I usually ned
up using brake cleaner). You may also want to buy the special socket to
drive the nuts. It's about $10 or so on-line - I couldn't torque mine
correctly without it.

It's also a good time to inspect your brakes.

I believe there's another post that accurately describes the torquing of the
nuts.
--
Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer, 1891

 

Jet (jet@bestweb.net) wrote on Saturday 22 November 2003 09:10 am:

> I am going to be adjusting the front wheel bearings on my 86 cj7 with warn
> manual hubs because there is some play in them. what I am wondering is
> there anything that I should replace while I am in there? or anything I
> should buy at the auto part store before I open it up? is it a easy job?
> the only other wheel bearings I have done where on a utility trailer and
> all I did was tighten the nut till the wheel stopped spinning and then
> backed up the nut to the next whole and put the cotter pin in it. is this
> adjustment the same
> thing? thanks carmine

Carmine,

I just finished my last week, so it's all still pretty fresh.

It's pretty straight forward. If you're not short on cash, you can go buy
both the inner and outer bearings for both sides, and return the ones you
don't use. Even the lifetime warranty, made in USA ones are only about $8
each or so. If the original bearings are still there, you'll probably have
to replace them. You can tap the races in and out with block of wood.

You'll also need two inner seals, as you can't get the inner bearing out
without removing the seal. Some grease, and some degreaser (I usually ned
up using brake cleaner). You may also want to buy the special socket to
drive the nuts. It's about $10 or so on-line - I couldn't torque mine
correctly without it.

It's also a good time to inspect your brakes.

I believe there's another post that accurately describes the torquing of the
nuts.
--
Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer, 1891

 

One other thing, while you've got the hubs off, pull the spindles and
replace the inner spindle seals and the needle bearing seals. They get
overlooked and need to be replaced when you do the wheel bearings.

"Michael White" <michael12@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:M1Wvb.11566$n56.593@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> Jet (jet@bestweb.net) wrote on Saturday 22 November 2003 09:10 am:
>
> > I am going to be adjusting the front wheel bearings on my 86 cj7 with
warn
> > manual hubs because there is some play in them. what I am wondering is
> > there anything that I should replace while I am in there? or anything I
> > should buy at the auto part store before I open it up? is it a easy job?
> > the only other wheel bearings I have done where on a utility trailer and
> > all I did was tighten the nut till the wheel stopped spinning and then
> > backed up the nut to the next whole and put the cotter pin in it. is
this
> > adjustment the same
> > thing? thanks carmine
>
> Carmine,
>
> I just finished my last week, so it's all still pretty fresh.
>
> It's pretty straight forward. If you're not short on cash, you can go buy
> both the inner and outer bearings for both sides, and return the ones you
> don't use. Even the lifetime warranty, made in USA ones are only about $8
> each or so. If the original bearings are still there, you'll probably
have
> to replace them. You can tap the races in and out with block of wood.
>
> You'll also need two inner seals, as you can't get the inner bearing out
> without removing the seal. Some grease, and some degreaser (I usually ned
> up using brake cleaner). You may also want to buy the special socket to
> drive the nuts. It's about $10 or so on-line - I couldn't torque mine
> correctly without it.
>
> It's also a good time to inspect your brakes.
>
> I believe there's another post that accurately describes the torquing of
the
> nuts.
> --
> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer, 1891

 

One other thing, while you've got the hubs off, pull the spindles and
replace the inner spindle seals and the needle bearing seals. They get
overlooked and need to be replaced when you do the wheel bearings.

"Michael White" <michael12@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:M1Wvb.11566$n56.593@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> Jet (jet@bestweb.net) wrote on Saturday 22 November 2003 09:10 am:
>
> > I am going to be adjusting the front wheel bearings on my 86 cj7 with
warn
> > manual hubs because there is some play in them. what I am wondering is
> > there anything that I should replace while I am in there? or anything I
> > should buy at the auto part store before I open it up? is it a easy job?
> > the only other wheel bearings I have done where on a utility trailer and
> > all I did was tighten the nut till the wheel stopped spinning and then
> > backed up the nut to the next whole and put the cotter pin in it. is
this
> > adjustment the same
> > thing? thanks carmine
>
> Carmine,
>
> I just finished my last week, so it's all still pretty fresh.
>
> It's pretty straight forward. If you're not short on cash, you can go buy
> both the inner and outer bearings for both sides, and return the ones you
> don't use. Even the lifetime warranty, made in USA ones are only about $8
> each or so. If the original bearings are still there, you'll probably
have
> to replace them. You can tap the races in and out with block of wood.
>
> You'll also need two inner seals, as you can't get the inner bearing out
> without removing the seal. Some grease, and some degreaser (I usually ned
> up using brake cleaner). You may also want to buy the special socket to
> drive the nuts. It's about $10 or so on-line - I couldn't torque mine
> correctly without it.
>
> It's also a good time to inspect your brakes.
>
> I believe there's another post that accurately describes the torquing of
the
> nuts.
> --
> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer, 1891

 

One other thing, while you've got the hubs off, pull the spindles and
replace the inner spindle seals and the needle bearing seals. They get
overlooked and need to be replaced when you do the wheel bearings.

"Michael White" <michael12@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:M1Wvb.11566$n56.593@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> Jet (jet@bestweb.net) wrote on Saturday 22 November 2003 09:10 am:
>
> > I am going to be adjusting the front wheel bearings on my 86 cj7 with
warn
> > manual hubs because there is some play in them. what I am wondering is
> > there anything that I should replace while I am in there? or anything I
> > should buy at the auto part store before I open it up? is it a easy job?
> > the only other wheel bearings I have done where on a utility trailer and
> > all I did was tighten the nut till the wheel stopped spinning and then
> > backed up the nut to the next whole and put the cotter pin in it. is
this
> > adjustment the same
> > thing? thanks carmine
>
> Carmine,
>
> I just finished my last week, so it's all still pretty fresh.
>
> It's pretty straight forward. If you're not short on cash, you can go buy
> both the inner and outer bearings for both sides, and return the ones you
> don't use. Even the lifetime warranty, made in USA ones are only about $8
> each or so. If the original bearings are still there, you'll probably
have
> to replace them. You can tap the races in and out with block of wood.
>
> You'll also need two inner seals, as you can't get the inner bearing out
> without removing the seal. Some grease, and some degreaser (I usually ned
> up using brake cleaner). You may also want to buy the special socket to
> drive the nuts. It's about $10 or so on-line - I couldn't torque mine
> correctly without it.
>
> It's also a good time to inspect your brakes.
>
> I believe there's another post that accurately describes the torquing of
the
> nuts.
> --
> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer, 1891