I have a 96 GC Orvis and the drivers side heated seat stopped working.
Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the heated seats?
If you do please send it to me direct.

I have the Clymer book AND IT IS TOTALLY USELESS!! SO DON'T BUY IT.

I used a meter and on both settings, high and low the reading is 12 volts,
unplugged.
Is the switch current limiting, for high and low?
What should be the resistance for, the heating coil?

Thanks in advance.
Joe

 

Z1R1200cc did pass the time by typing:
> I have a 96 GC Orvis and the drivers side heated seat stopped working.
> Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the heated seats?
> If you do please send it to me direct.
>
> I have the Clymer book AND IT IS TOTALLY USELESS!! SO DON'T BUY IT.
>
> I used a meter and on both settings, high and low the reading is 12 volts,
> unplugged.
> Is the switch current limiting, for high and low?
> What should be the resistance for, the heating coil?

I don't have any schematics that get that detailed, but if memory serves
there is a thermal fuse built into the system. The usual problem is a
circuit break though. The wires flex, but not that much. Disconnect
the seat and put an ohmmeter across the element lines. You should see a fairly
high resistance. If you see an open you know it's a broken wire.

Gonna have to defer to someone else on the particulars, don't know if the
heater assembly can be got separate.

Good luck.

--
DougW

 

Z1R1200cc did pass the time by typing:
> I have a 96 GC Orvis and the drivers side heated seat stopped working.
> Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the heated seats?
> If you do please send it to me direct.
>
> I have the Clymer book AND IT IS TOTALLY USELESS!! SO DON'T BUY IT.
>
> I used a meter and on both settings, high and low the reading is 12 volts,
> unplugged.
> Is the switch current limiting, for high and low?
> What should be the resistance for, the heating coil?

I don't have any schematics that get that detailed, but if memory serves
there is a thermal fuse built into the system. The usual problem is a
circuit break though. The wires flex, but not that much. Disconnect
the seat and put an ohmmeter across the element lines. You should see a fairly
high resistance. If you see an open you know it's a broken wire.

Gonna have to defer to someone else on the particulars, don't know if the
heater assembly can be got separate.

Good luck.

--
DougW

 

Z1R1200cc did pass the time by typing:
> I have a 96 GC Orvis and the drivers side heated seat stopped working.
> Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the heated seats?
> If you do please send it to me direct.
>
> I have the Clymer book AND IT IS TOTALLY USELESS!! SO DON'T BUY IT.
>
> I used a meter and on both settings, high and low the reading is 12 volts,
> unplugged.
> Is the switch current limiting, for high and low?
> What should be the resistance for, the heating coil?

I don't have any schematics that get that detailed, but if memory serves
there is a thermal fuse built into the system. The usual problem is a
circuit break though. The wires flex, but not that much. Disconnect
the seat and put an ohmmeter across the element lines. You should see a fairly
high resistance. If you see an open you know it's a broken wire.

Gonna have to defer to someone else on the particulars, don't know if the
heater assembly can be got separate.

Good luck.

--
DougW

 

Joe,

I have a 96 Jeep GC Limited with heated seats. I fixed the driver's side
once and the passenger side twice. The problem is that the wires flex over
the seams in the leather seats and break where they attach to the mesh in
the seat. The best way to diagnose is to unplug the connector in the back
of the seat and determine if it is in the seat or the back. I have always
found it in the seat. I have schematics that I can scan and send to you if
you needed.

This is how I have fixed the problem. Instead of going around the seam, I
used an "exacto" knife and cut through the seam (not through the stitch
where it would be seen on the outside) and pushed the wire through before
soldering. After soldering, I would put clear RTV over the soldered section
for added rigidity. This has worked great. Why have I had to fix more than
once you may be thinking? There is a connection on both halves of the seat.
Each time I only have fixed the broken half. I should get smart and do all
while in there. I just figured that they weren't broke so don't fix them.
I didn't want to cause any more problems. Also - the mesh that is soldered
to is long enough to pull and get more.

Let me know if you need schematics or any other help. I have found that the
Factory Manual has GREAT schematics and worth the $100 or so spent. Don't
go to the dealer, the only thing that they want to do is replace the entire
seat cushion - for a hefty price.

To answer some of your questions. One of the wires is a feedback from the
seat to shut on and off the heater. In low and high you will measure 12
volts. The only difference is in low setting, the heater will cycle off
earlier in high setting the heater will stay on longer. The manual explains
how this works and troubleshooting if this is a problem. I don't think this
will be your problem though!!

Curtis


"Z1R1200cc" <Z1R1200cc@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:qV1zb.375296$0v4.19480604@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> I have a 96 GC Orvis and the drivers side heated seat stopped working.
> Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the heated seats?
> If you do please send it to me direct.
>
> I have the Clymer book AND IT IS TOTALLY USELESS!! SO DON'T BUY IT.
>
> I used a meter and on both settings, high and low the reading is 12 volts,
> unplugged.
> Is the switch current limiting, for high and low?
> What should be the resistance for, the heating coil?
>
> Thanks in advance.
> Joe
>
>
>
>

 

Joe,

I have a 96 Jeep GC Limited with heated seats. I fixed the driver's side
once and the passenger side twice. The problem is that the wires flex over
the seams in the leather seats and break where they attach to the mesh in
the seat. The best way to diagnose is to unplug the connector in the back
of the seat and determine if it is in the seat or the back. I have always
found it in the seat. I have schematics that I can scan and send to you if
you needed.

This is how I have fixed the problem. Instead of going around the seam, I
used an "exacto" knife and cut through the seam (not through the stitch
where it would be seen on the outside) and pushed the wire through before
soldering. After soldering, I would put clear RTV over the soldered section
for added rigidity. This has worked great. Why have I had to fix more than
once you may be thinking? There is a connection on both halves of the seat.
Each time I only have fixed the broken half. I should get smart and do all
while in there. I just figured that they weren't broke so don't fix them.
I didn't want to cause any more problems. Also - the mesh that is soldered
to is long enough to pull and get more.

Let me know if you need schematics or any other help. I have found that the
Factory Manual has GREAT schematics and worth the $100 or so spent. Don't
go to the dealer, the only thing that they want to do is replace the entire
seat cushion - for a hefty price.

To answer some of your questions. One of the wires is a feedback from the
seat to shut on and off the heater. In low and high you will measure 12
volts. The only difference is in low setting, the heater will cycle off
earlier in high setting the heater will stay on longer. The manual explains
how this works and troubleshooting if this is a problem. I don't think this
will be your problem though!!

Curtis


"Z1R1200cc" <Z1R1200cc@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:qV1zb.375296$0v4.19480604@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> I have a 96 GC Orvis and the drivers side heated seat stopped working.
> Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the heated seats?
> If you do please send it to me direct.
>
> I have the Clymer book AND IT IS TOTALLY USELESS!! SO DON'T BUY IT.
>
> I used a meter and on both settings, high and low the reading is 12 volts,
> unplugged.
> Is the switch current limiting, for high and low?
> What should be the resistance for, the heating coil?
>
> Thanks in advance.
> Joe
>
>
>
>

 

Joe,

I have a 96 Jeep GC Limited with heated seats. I fixed the driver's side
once and the passenger side twice. The problem is that the wires flex over
the seams in the leather seats and break where they attach to the mesh in
the seat. The best way to diagnose is to unplug the connector in the back
of the seat and determine if it is in the seat or the back. I have always
found it in the seat. I have schematics that I can scan and send to you if
you needed.

This is how I have fixed the problem. Instead of going around the seam, I
used an "exacto" knife and cut through the seam (not through the stitch
where it would be seen on the outside) and pushed the wire through before
soldering. After soldering, I would put clear RTV over the soldered section
for added rigidity. This has worked great. Why have I had to fix more than
once you may be thinking? There is a connection on both halves of the seat.
Each time I only have fixed the broken half. I should get smart and do all
while in there. I just figured that they weren't broke so don't fix them.
I didn't want to cause any more problems. Also - the mesh that is soldered
to is long enough to pull and get more.

Let me know if you need schematics or any other help. I have found that the
Factory Manual has GREAT schematics and worth the $100 or so spent. Don't
go to the dealer, the only thing that they want to do is replace the entire
seat cushion - for a hefty price.

To answer some of your questions. One of the wires is a feedback from the
seat to shut on and off the heater. In low and high you will measure 12
volts. The only difference is in low setting, the heater will cycle off
earlier in high setting the heater will stay on longer. The manual explains
how this works and troubleshooting if this is a problem. I don't think this
will be your problem though!!

Curtis


"Z1R1200cc" <Z1R1200cc@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:qV1zb.375296$0v4.19480604@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> I have a 96 GC Orvis and the drivers side heated seat stopped working.
> Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the heated seats?
> If you do please send it to me direct.
>
> I have the Clymer book AND IT IS TOTALLY USELESS!! SO DON'T BUY IT.
>
> I used a meter and on both settings, high and low the reading is 12 volts,
> unplugged.
> Is the switch current limiting, for high and low?
> What should be the resistance for, the heating coil?
>
> Thanks in advance.
> Joe
>
>
>
>

 

"Curtis Rager @suscom.net>" <family.rager<NOSPAM> wrote in message
news:vsvjp5c7hnb98e@corp.supernews.com...
> Joe,
>
> I have a 96 Jeep GC Limited with heated seats. I fixed the driver's side
> once and the passenger side twice. The problem is that the wires flex
over
> the seams in the leather seats and break where they attach to the mesh in
> the seat. The best way to diagnose is to unplug the connector in the back
> of the seat and determine if it is in the seat or the back. I have always
> found it in the seat. I have schematics that I can scan and send to you
if
> you needed.
>
> This is how I have fixed the problem. Instead of going around the seam, I
> used an "exacto" knife and cut through the seam (not through the stitch
> where it would be seen on the outside) and pushed the wire through before
> soldering. After soldering, I would put clear RTV over the soldered
section
> for added rigidity. This has worked great. Why have I had to fix more
than
> once you may be thinking? There is a connection on both halves of the
seat.
> Each time I only have fixed the broken half. I should get smart and do
all
> while in there. I just figured that they weren't broke so don't fix them.
> I didn't want to cause any more problems. Also - the mesh that is
soldered
> to is long enough to pull and get more.
>
> Let me know if you need schematics or any other help. I have found that
the
> Factory Manual has GREAT schematics and worth the $100 or so spent. Don't
> go to the dealer, the only thing that they want to do is replace the
entire
> seat cushion - for a hefty price.
>
> To answer some of your questions. One of the wires is a feedback from the
> seat to shut on and off the heater. In low and high you will measure 12
> volts. The only difference is in low setting, the heater will cycle off
> earlier in high setting the heater will stay on longer. The manual
explains
> how this works and troubleshooting if this is a problem. I don't think
this
> will be your problem though!!
>
> Curtis
>
>
> "Z1R1200cc" <Z1R1200cc@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
> news:qV1zb.375296$0v4.19480604@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> > I have a 96 GC Orvis and the drivers side heated seat stopped working.
> > Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the heated seats?
> > If you do please send it to me direct.
> >
> > I have the Clymer book AND IT IS TOTALLY USELESS!! SO DON'T BUY IT.
> >
> > I used a meter and on both settings, high and low the reading is 12
volts,
> > unplugged.
> > Is the switch current limiting, for high and low?
> > What should be the resistance for, the heating coil?
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> > Joe
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>

 

"Curtis Rager @suscom.net>" <family.rager<NOSPAM> wrote in message
news:vsvjp5c7hnb98e@corp.supernews.com...
> Joe,
>
> I have a 96 Jeep GC Limited with heated seats. I fixed the driver's side
> once and the passenger side twice. The problem is that the wires flex
over
> the seams in the leather seats and break where they attach to the mesh in
> the seat. The best way to diagnose is to unplug the connector in the back
> of the seat and determine if it is in the seat or the back. I have always
> found it in the seat. I have schematics that I can scan and send to you
if
> you needed.
>
> This is how I have fixed the problem. Instead of going around the seam, I
> used an "exacto" knife and cut through the seam (not through the stitch
> where it would be seen on the outside) and pushed the wire through before
> soldering. After soldering, I would put clear RTV over the soldered
section
> for added rigidity. This has worked great. Why have I had to fix more
than
> once you may be thinking? There is a connection on both halves of the
seat.
> Each time I only have fixed the broken half. I should get smart and do
all
> while in there. I just figured that they weren't broke so don't fix them.
> I didn't want to cause any more problems. Also - the mesh that is
soldered
> to is long enough to pull and get more.
>
> Let me know if you need schematics or any other help. I have found that
the
> Factory Manual has GREAT schematics and worth the $100 or so spent. Don't
> go to the dealer, the only thing that they want to do is replace the
entire
> seat cushion - for a hefty price.
>
> To answer some of your questions. One of the wires is a feedback from the
> seat to shut on and off the heater. In low and high you will measure 12
> volts. The only difference is in low setting, the heater will cycle off
> earlier in high setting the heater will stay on longer. The manual
explains
> how this works and troubleshooting if this is a problem. I don't think
this
> will be your problem though!!
>
> Curtis
>
>
> "Z1R1200cc" <Z1R1200cc@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
> news:qV1zb.375296$0v4.19480604@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> > I have a 96 GC Orvis and the drivers side heated seat stopped working.
> > Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the heated seats?
> > If you do please send it to me direct.
> >
> > I have the Clymer book AND IT IS TOTALLY USELESS!! SO DON'T BUY IT.
> >
> > I used a meter and on both settings, high and low the reading is 12
volts,
> > unplugged.
> > Is the switch current limiting, for high and low?
> > What should be the resistance for, the heating coil?
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> > Joe
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>

 

"Curtis Rager @suscom.net>" <family.rager<NOSPAM> wrote in message
news:vsvjp5c7hnb98e@corp.supernews.com...
> Joe,
>
> I have a 96 Jeep GC Limited with heated seats. I fixed the driver's side
> once and the passenger side twice. The problem is that the wires flex
over
> the seams in the leather seats and break where they attach to the mesh in
> the seat. The best way to diagnose is to unplug the connector in the back
> of the seat and determine if it is in the seat or the back. I have always
> found it in the seat. I have schematics that I can scan and send to you
if
> you needed.
>
> This is how I have fixed the problem. Instead of going around the seam, I
> used an "exacto" knife and cut through the seam (not through the stitch
> where it would be seen on the outside) and pushed the wire through before
> soldering. After soldering, I would put clear RTV over the soldered
section
> for added rigidity. This has worked great. Why have I had to fix more
than
> once you may be thinking? There is a connection on both halves of the
seat.
> Each time I only have fixed the broken half. I should get smart and do
all
> while in there. I just figured that they weren't broke so don't fix them.
> I didn't want to cause any more problems. Also - the mesh that is
soldered
> to is long enough to pull and get more.
>
> Let me know if you need schematics or any other help. I have found that
the
> Factory Manual has GREAT schematics and worth the $100 or so spent. Don't
> go to the dealer, the only thing that they want to do is replace the
entire
> seat cushion - for a hefty price.
>
> To answer some of your questions. One of the wires is a feedback from the
> seat to shut on and off the heater. In low and high you will measure 12
> volts. The only difference is in low setting, the heater will cycle off
> earlier in high setting the heater will stay on longer. The manual
explains
> how this works and troubleshooting if this is a problem. I don't think
this
> will be your problem though!!
>
> Curtis
>
>
> "Z1R1200cc" <Z1R1200cc@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
> news:qV1zb.375296$0v4.19480604@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> > I have a 96 GC Orvis and the drivers side heated seat stopped working.
> > Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the heated seats?
> > If you do please send it to me direct.
> >
> > I have the Clymer book AND IT IS TOTALLY USELESS!! SO DON'T BUY IT.
> >
> > I used a meter and on both settings, high and low the reading is 12
volts,
> > unplugged.
> > Is the switch current limiting, for high and low?
> > What should be the resistance for, the heating coil?
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> > Joe
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>