Doug, those scans were great! Thanks!
Freezing rain here today, thankfully my son helped me push the old girl into
the garage. Took me half a day to clear enough room in there for her.
Do you know where, in your diagram page 16, the splice or connector K25
might be? I'm going out in a few minutes to check continuity on the
white/black wire from the PCM plug to both the CPS and the CamPS, making
sure to disc. the CamPS first.
Thanks again.
Denny

"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:xkJJb.51579$PK3.22091@okepread01...
>
> > Hold on a sec.. lemme scan something for you.
> >
> > I'll post back when it's done.
>
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/temp/15.jpg
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/temp/16.jpg
>
> Those have to be the wost scans I have ever made. :(
>
> Should be readable though.
>
>

 

D did pass the time by typing:
> Doug, those scans were great! Thanks!
> Freezing rain here today, thankfully my son helped me push the old girl into
> the garage. Took me half a day to clear enough room in there for her.
> Do you know where, in your diagram page 16, the splice or connector K25
> might be?

According to the book, K25 is in the wiring loom about mid way between the
CamPS connector and the point where the oil pressure cable goes in.
About where the loom crosses the dipstick tube.

> I'm going out in a few minutes to check continuity on the
> white/black wire from the PCM plug to both the CPS and the CamPS, making
> sure to disc. the CamPS first.

The reason I suggested disconnecting the CamPS is just
incase it would create a false reading.

While your there, check the power supply to the PCM.
Power center fuses F2 (20A), F15(30A)
Pin 3 on the PCM connector (16 gauge Red)

Bat+ >---<F15>---<F2>-------> PCM pin3

And the Ground circuits
Pin 5, Pin 11, and Pin 12 (18 gauge Black w/ Tan stripe)

--
DougW

 

D did pass the time by typing:
> Doug, those scans were great! Thanks!
> Freezing rain here today, thankfully my son helped me push the old girl into
> the garage. Took me half a day to clear enough room in there for her.
> Do you know where, in your diagram page 16, the splice or connector K25
> might be?

According to the book, K25 is in the wiring loom about mid way between the
CamPS connector and the point where the oil pressure cable goes in.
About where the loom crosses the dipstick tube.

> I'm going out in a few minutes to check continuity on the
> white/black wire from the PCM plug to both the CPS and the CamPS, making
> sure to disc. the CamPS first.

The reason I suggested disconnecting the CamPS is just
incase it would create a false reading.

While your there, check the power supply to the PCM.
Power center fuses F2 (20A), F15(30A)
Pin 3 on the PCM connector (16 gauge Red)

Bat+ >---<F15>---<F2>-------> PCM pin3

And the Ground circuits
Pin 5, Pin 11, and Pin 12 (18 gauge Black w/ Tan stripe)

--
DougW

 

D did pass the time by typing:
> Doug, those scans were great! Thanks!
> Freezing rain here today, thankfully my son helped me push the old girl into
> the garage. Took me half a day to clear enough room in there for her.
> Do you know where, in your diagram page 16, the splice or connector K25
> might be?

According to the book, K25 is in the wiring loom about mid way between the
CamPS connector and the point where the oil pressure cable goes in.
About where the loom crosses the dipstick tube.

> I'm going out in a few minutes to check continuity on the
> white/black wire from the PCM plug to both the CPS and the CamPS, making
> sure to disc. the CamPS first.

The reason I suggested disconnecting the CamPS is just
incase it would create a false reading.

While your there, check the power supply to the PCM.
Power center fuses F2 (20A), F15(30A)
Pin 3 on the PCM connector (16 gauge Red)

Bat+ >---<F15>---<F2>-------> PCM pin3

And the Ground circuits
Pin 5, Pin 11, and Pin 12 (18 gauge Black w/ Tan stripe)

--
DougW

 

Thanks Doug, will do.
The way this thing started having problems would sure indicate a bad wire
getting worse, or a splice connector huh? (Or ground, CPS, PCM, CamPS, TPS,
ad nauseum) Good thing I write things down.

"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:bqWJb.53065$PK3.40622@okepread01...
> D did pass the time by typing:
> > Doug, those scans were great! Thanks!
> > Freezing rain here today, thankfully my son helped me push the old girl
into
> > the garage. Took me half a day to clear enough room in there for her.
> > Do you know where, in your diagram page 16, the splice or connector K25
> > might be?
>
> According to the book, K25 is in the wiring loom about mid way between the
> CamPS connector and the point where the oil pressure cable goes in.
> About where the loom crosses the dipstick tube.
>
> > I'm going out in a few minutes to check continuity on the
> > white/black wire from the PCM plug to both the CPS and the CamPS, making
> > sure to disc. the CamPS first.
>
> The reason I suggested disconnecting the CamPS is just
> incase it would create a false reading.
>
> While your there, check the power supply to the PCM.
> Power center fuses F2 (20A), F15(30A)
> Pin 3 on the PCM connector (16 gauge Red)
>
> Bat+ >---<F15>---<F2>-------> PCM pin3
>
> And the Ground circuits
> Pin 5, Pin 11, and Pin 12 (18 gauge Black w/ Tan stripe)
>
> --
> DougW
>
>

 

Thanks Doug, will do.
The way this thing started having problems would sure indicate a bad wire
getting worse, or a splice connector huh? (Or ground, CPS, PCM, CamPS, TPS,
ad nauseum) Good thing I write things down.

"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:bqWJb.53065$PK3.40622@okepread01...
> D did pass the time by typing:
> > Doug, those scans were great! Thanks!
> > Freezing rain here today, thankfully my son helped me push the old girl
into
> > the garage. Took me half a day to clear enough room in there for her.
> > Do you know where, in your diagram page 16, the splice or connector K25
> > might be?
>
> According to the book, K25 is in the wiring loom about mid way between the
> CamPS connector and the point where the oil pressure cable goes in.
> About where the loom crosses the dipstick tube.
>
> > I'm going out in a few minutes to check continuity on the
> > white/black wire from the PCM plug to both the CPS and the CamPS, making
> > sure to disc. the CamPS first.
>
> The reason I suggested disconnecting the CamPS is just
> incase it would create a false reading.
>
> While your there, check the power supply to the PCM.
> Power center fuses F2 (20A), F15(30A)
> Pin 3 on the PCM connector (16 gauge Red)
>
> Bat+ >---<F15>---<F2>-------> PCM pin3
>
> And the Ground circuits
> Pin 5, Pin 11, and Pin 12 (18 gauge Black w/ Tan stripe)
>
> --
> DougW
>
>

 

Thanks Doug, will do.
The way this thing started having problems would sure indicate a bad wire
getting worse, or a splice connector huh? (Or ground, CPS, PCM, CamPS, TPS,
ad nauseum) Good thing I write things down.

"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:bqWJb.53065$PK3.40622@okepread01...
> D did pass the time by typing:
> > Doug, those scans were great! Thanks!
> > Freezing rain here today, thankfully my son helped me push the old girl
into
> > the garage. Took me half a day to clear enough room in there for her.
> > Do you know where, in your diagram page 16, the splice or connector K25
> > might be?
>
> According to the book, K25 is in the wiring loom about mid way between the
> CamPS connector and the point where the oil pressure cable goes in.
> About where the loom crosses the dipstick tube.
>
> > I'm going out in a few minutes to check continuity on the
> > white/black wire from the PCM plug to both the CPS and the CamPS, making
> > sure to disc. the CamPS first.
>
> The reason I suggested disconnecting the CamPS is just
> incase it would create a false reading.
>
> While your there, check the power supply to the PCM.
> Power center fuses F2 (20A), F15(30A)
> Pin 3 on the PCM connector (16 gauge Red)
>
> Bat+ >---<F15>---<F2>-------> PCM pin3
>
> And the Ground circuits
> Pin 5, Pin 11, and Pin 12 (18 gauge Black w/ Tan stripe)
>
> --
> DougW
>
>

 

D did pass the time by typing:
> Thanks Doug, will do.
> The way this thing started having problems would sure indicate a bad wire
> getting worse, or a splice connector huh? (Or ground, CPS, PCM, CamPS, TPS,
> ad nauseum) Good thing I write things down.

That's the problem with wiring or connectors going bad, it can cause all sorts
of problems.

Then again it is possible the ECU has died. In 93 the whole unit is sunk in epoxy
so it's fairly resistant to abuse. The down side is it's impossible to repair.
If you need a new one and have time, call the folks at buymopar.com they are
a dealership but don't have outrageous prices.

While your taking notes, if you ever start getting an ABS failure when going over
bumps, that is usually caused by a bad connector at the ABS computer. Pull the
connector, spray it with contact cleaner, smear in some dielectric grease, and
reconnect. If your ABS ever engages just as you come to a stop, one of your
front ABS sensors has gone out of spec and should be replaced.

side note: if you use a contact cleaner like Techspray 1622-10S, keep it away
from all painted surfaces. It eats paint like nothing else. It's also unfriendly
to skin as it dissolves all oils.


--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors

 

D did pass the time by typing:
> Thanks Doug, will do.
> The way this thing started having problems would sure indicate a bad wire
> getting worse, or a splice connector huh? (Or ground, CPS, PCM, CamPS, TPS,
> ad nauseum) Good thing I write things down.

That's the problem with wiring or connectors going bad, it can cause all sorts
of problems.

Then again it is possible the ECU has died. In 93 the whole unit is sunk in epoxy
so it's fairly resistant to abuse. The down side is it's impossible to repair.
If you need a new one and have time, call the folks at buymopar.com they are
a dealership but don't have outrageous prices.

While your taking notes, if you ever start getting an ABS failure when going over
bumps, that is usually caused by a bad connector at the ABS computer. Pull the
connector, spray it with contact cleaner, smear in some dielectric grease, and
reconnect. If your ABS ever engages just as you come to a stop, one of your
front ABS sensors has gone out of spec and should be replaced.

side note: if you use a contact cleaner like Techspray 1622-10S, keep it away
from all painted surfaces. It eats paint like nothing else. It's also unfriendly
to skin as it dissolves all oils.


--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors

 

D did pass the time by typing:
> Thanks Doug, will do.
> The way this thing started having problems would sure indicate a bad wire
> getting worse, or a splice connector huh? (Or ground, CPS, PCM, CamPS, TPS,
> ad nauseum) Good thing I write things down.

That's the problem with wiring or connectors going bad, it can cause all sorts
of problems.

Then again it is possible the ECU has died. In 93 the whole unit is sunk in epoxy
so it's fairly resistant to abuse. The down side is it's impossible to repair.
If you need a new one and have time, call the folks at buymopar.com they are
a dealership but don't have outrageous prices.

While your taking notes, if you ever start getting an ABS failure when going over
bumps, that is usually caused by a bad connector at the ABS computer. Pull the
connector, spray it with contact cleaner, smear in some dielectric grease, and
reconnect. If your ABS ever engages just as you come to a stop, one of your
front ABS sensors has gone out of spec and should be replaced.

side note: if you use a contact cleaner like Techspray 1622-10S, keep it away
from all painted surfaces. It eats paint like nothing else. It's also unfriendly
to skin as it dissolves all oils.


--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors