Okay, so y'all helped me with my last dilemma (the mystery of the Jeep that
would run for fifteen minutes then die for the rest of the day....I just
replaced everything between the Fuel Tank and the newly rebuilt carb, and
something did the trick!), so maybe you can help me with a question:
This is my second twenty year old (almost) Jeep, so I understand the
concept of old Jeeps leaking oil. No big deal. What I don't understand is
why it sometimes leaks oil and sometimes doesn't. For about a year, the
Jeep leaked nary a drop. Now (after the fuel problem), it leaks. I took it
to my mechanic, and he said it was the rear main seal - he also said it's
not worth fixing for the small amount that is leaking (he predicted $1000 to
replace the seal right - any thoughts on that?).
I remember on my 78 CJ5 when I bought it, the first thing I did was replace
all of the fluids with synthetics. Big mistake. The thing leaked like a
sieve. Perhaps on this one, I should use a slightly thicker oil or an
additive for older engines.....any thoughts on that? I live in FLA,
however, so I don't want anything too heavy.
BTW: It's an 84 CJ7 with a partially rebuilt 258, Clifford Stage One and
header.
One other question: On a Holley Carb (Model 4160, I think - it's a 390 CFM
with side hung float, see:
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SC/0-8007.html) how do
I lean it out? Since I had it rebuilt, the exhaust gases is really rich
smelling - burns your eyes if you get too close.....Which screw do I
adjust??? Thanks - I appreciate the advice!!!!
Ron

 

Ronald Keller (rkeller8@tampabay.rr.com) wrote on Monday 22 September 2003
07:52 pm:

> Okay, so y'all helped me with my last dilemma (the mystery of the Jeep
> that would run for fifteen minutes then die for the rest of the day....I
> just replaced everything between the Fuel Tank and the newly rebuilt carb,
> and something did the trick!), so maybe you can help me with a question:
> This is my second twenty year old (almost) Jeep, so I understand the
> concept of old Jeeps leaking oil. No big deal. What I don't understand
> is
> why it sometimes leaks oil and sometimes doesn't. For about a year, the
> Jeep leaked nary a drop. Now (after the fuel problem), it leaks. I took
> it to my mechanic, and he said it was the rear main seal - he also said
> it's not worth fixing for the small amount that is leaking (he predicted
> $1000 to replace the seal right - any thoughts on that?).
> I remember on my 78 CJ5 when I bought it, the first thing I did was
> replace
> all of the fluids with synthetics. Big mistake. The thing leaked like a
> sieve. Perhaps on this one, I should use a slightly thicker oil or an
> additive for older engines.....any thoughts on that? I live in FLA,
> however, so I don't want anything too heavy.
> BTW: It's an 84 CJ7 with a partially rebuilt 258, Clifford Stage One and
> header.
> One other question: On a Holley Carb (Model 4160, I think - it's a 390 CFM
> with side hung float, see:
> http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SC/0-8007.html) how
> do
> I lean it out? Since I had it rebuilt, the exhaust gases is really rich
> smelling - burns your eyes if you get too close.....Which screw do I
> adjust??? Thanks - I appreciate the advice!!!!
> Ron

Ron,

Could also be the oil pan seal. Mine's similar, except it stops leaking
when I get half a quart below "full".
--
Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer, 1891

 

Ronald Keller (rkeller8@tampabay.rr.com) wrote on Monday 22 September 2003
07:52 pm:

> Okay, so y'all helped me with my last dilemma (the mystery of the Jeep
> that would run for fifteen minutes then die for the rest of the day....I
> just replaced everything between the Fuel Tank and the newly rebuilt carb,
> and something did the trick!), so maybe you can help me with a question:
> This is my second twenty year old (almost) Jeep, so I understand the
> concept of old Jeeps leaking oil. No big deal. What I don't understand
> is
> why it sometimes leaks oil and sometimes doesn't. For about a year, the
> Jeep leaked nary a drop. Now (after the fuel problem), it leaks. I took
> it to my mechanic, and he said it was the rear main seal - he also said
> it's not worth fixing for the small amount that is leaking (he predicted
> $1000 to replace the seal right - any thoughts on that?).
> I remember on my 78 CJ5 when I bought it, the first thing I did was
> replace
> all of the fluids with synthetics. Big mistake. The thing leaked like a
> sieve. Perhaps on this one, I should use a slightly thicker oil or an
> additive for older engines.....any thoughts on that? I live in FLA,
> however, so I don't want anything too heavy.
> BTW: It's an 84 CJ7 with a partially rebuilt 258, Clifford Stage One and
> header.
> One other question: On a Holley Carb (Model 4160, I think - it's a 390 CFM
> with side hung float, see:
> http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SC/0-8007.html) how
> do
> I lean it out? Since I had it rebuilt, the exhaust gases is really rich
> smelling - burns your eyes if you get too close.....Which screw do I
> adjust??? Thanks - I appreciate the advice!!!!
> Ron

Ron,

Could also be the oil pan seal. Mine's similar, except it stops leaking
when I get half a quart below "full".
--
Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer, 1891

 

When an engine and driveline gets up to temp and stays there for a good long
time, the gaskets and seals begin to do their own thing. Leak or stop
leaking. My rear ring and pinion seal stopped leaking after a really good
off-road season. I checked the level and it's still full. My Jeep used to
leak somewhere between the engine and bell housing. After feeding it for a
month, it quit after I started using it as an everyday driver. I guess the
seals and gaskets revitilized themselves. Keep a close eye on them. Also,
keep a good eye on the all the bolts to the trany, etc. I noticied mine had
loosened some, causing seepage.

--
Thanks Always !!!
Paul '75 CJ5 258
Vail, CO.
"Ronald Keller" <rkeller8@tampabay.rr.com> wrote in message
news:sPMbb.1384$eS5.38@twister.tampabay.rr.com...
> Okay, so y'all helped me with my last dilemma (the mystery of the Jeep
that
> would run for fifteen minutes then die for the rest of the day....I just
> replaced everything between the Fuel Tank and the newly rebuilt carb, and
> something did the trick!), so maybe you can help me with a question:
> This is my second twenty year old (almost) Jeep, so I understand the
> concept of old Jeeps leaking oil. No big deal. What I don't understand
is
> why it sometimes leaks oil and sometimes doesn't. For about a year, the
> Jeep leaked nary a drop. Now (after the fuel problem), it leaks. I took
it
> to my mechanic, and he said it was the rear main seal - he also said it's
> not worth fixing for the small amount that is leaking (he predicted $1000
to
> replace the seal right - any thoughts on that?).
> I remember on my 78 CJ5 when I bought it, the first thing I did was
replace
> all of the fluids with synthetics. Big mistake. The thing leaked like a
> sieve. Perhaps on this one, I should use a slightly thicker oil or an
> additive for older engines.....any thoughts on that? I live in FLA,
> however, so I don't want anything too heavy.
> BTW: It's an 84 CJ7 with a partially rebuilt 258, Clifford Stage One and
> header.
> One other question: On a Holley Carb (Model 4160, I think - it's a 390 CFM
> with side hung float, see:
> http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SC/0-8007.html) how
do
> I lean it out? Since I had it rebuilt, the exhaust gases is really rich
> smelling - burns your eyes if you get too close.....Which screw do I
> adjust??? Thanks - I appreciate the advice!!!!
> Ron
>
>

 

When an engine and driveline gets up to temp and stays there for a good long
time, the gaskets and seals begin to do their own thing. Leak or stop
leaking. My rear ring and pinion seal stopped leaking after a really good
off-road season. I checked the level and it's still full. My Jeep used to
leak somewhere between the engine and bell housing. After feeding it for a
month, it quit after I started using it as an everyday driver. I guess the
seals and gaskets revitilized themselves. Keep a close eye on them. Also,
keep a good eye on the all the bolts to the trany, etc. I noticied mine had
loosened some, causing seepage.

--
Thanks Always !!!
Paul '75 CJ5 258
Vail, CO.
"Ronald Keller" <rkeller8@tampabay.rr.com> wrote in message
news:sPMbb.1384$eS5.38@twister.tampabay.rr.com...
> Okay, so y'all helped me with my last dilemma (the mystery of the Jeep
that
> would run for fifteen minutes then die for the rest of the day....I just
> replaced everything between the Fuel Tank and the newly rebuilt carb, and
> something did the trick!), so maybe you can help me with a question:
> This is my second twenty year old (almost) Jeep, so I understand the
> concept of old Jeeps leaking oil. No big deal. What I don't understand
is
> why it sometimes leaks oil and sometimes doesn't. For about a year, the
> Jeep leaked nary a drop. Now (after the fuel problem), it leaks. I took
it
> to my mechanic, and he said it was the rear main seal - he also said it's
> not worth fixing for the small amount that is leaking (he predicted $1000
to
> replace the seal right - any thoughts on that?).
> I remember on my 78 CJ5 when I bought it, the first thing I did was
replace
> all of the fluids with synthetics. Big mistake. The thing leaked like a
> sieve. Perhaps on this one, I should use a slightly thicker oil or an
> additive for older engines.....any thoughts on that? I live in FLA,
> however, so I don't want anything too heavy.
> BTW: It's an 84 CJ7 with a partially rebuilt 258, Clifford Stage One and
> header.
> One other question: On a Holley Carb (Model 4160, I think - it's a 390 CFM
> with side hung float, see:
> http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SC/0-8007.html) how
do
> I lean it out? Since I had it rebuilt, the exhaust gases is really rich
> smelling - burns your eyes if you get too close.....Which screw do I
> adjust??? Thanks - I appreciate the advice!!!!
> Ron
>
>

 

> I took it to my mechanic, and he said it was the rear main seal - he also
said it's not worth fixing for the small amount that is leaking (he
predicted $1000 to
> replace the seal right - any thoughts on that?).

Yes, your mechanic is a thief! It's about a two hour job to replace, plus
the cost of the seal, pan gasket, oil & filter. If that comes to $1k, hey,
bring it on over & I'll do it for you for $950!

It can alos be the vavcle cover gasket, the pan gasket or a host of other
little places where it can spew. Best thing to do is de-grease the engine
throroughly wit a good cleaner and high pressure wash. Then run it a good
ways at temp & look for any signs of seepage. Start at the highest spot on
the engine & work your way down & around. If there's no upper engine or
external seal seepage then it's likely the main.

 

> I took it to my mechanic, and he said it was the rear main seal - he also
said it's not worth fixing for the small amount that is leaking (he
predicted $1000 to
> replace the seal right - any thoughts on that?).

Yes, your mechanic is a thief! It's about a two hour job to replace, plus
the cost of the seal, pan gasket, oil & filter. If that comes to $1k, hey,
bring it on over & I'll do it for you for $950!

It can alos be the vavcle cover gasket, the pan gasket or a host of other
little places where it can spew. Best thing to do is de-grease the engine
throroughly wit a good cleaner and high pressure wash. Then run it a good
ways at temp & look for any signs of seepage. Start at the highest spot on
the engine & work your way down & around. If there's no upper engine or
external seal seepage then it's likely the main.

 

After messing around the top of the engine or the valve cover it leaks?

99% it is the valve cover. Those suckers leak if you look at them
sideways, let alone if you do work around them.

If you heat up the engine and while it is running run a clean rag across
the rear of the head below the valve cover and find oil, you have found
the leak.

The cover will drip oil down the back center and do a sweet imitation of
a rear seal leak.

Even if it is a rear seal, it can be done in your driveway in an
afternoon. You just have to drop the oil pan and pull off the rear
bearing cap to replace the seal.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Ronald Keller wrote:
>
> Okay, so y'all helped me with my last dilemma (the mystery of the Jeep that
> would run for fifteen minutes then die for the rest of the day....I just
> replaced everything between the Fuel Tank and the newly rebuilt carb, and
> something did the trick!), so maybe you can help me with a question:
> This is my second twenty year old (almost) Jeep, so I understand the
> concept of old Jeeps leaking oil. No big deal. What I don't understand is
> why it sometimes leaks oil and sometimes doesn't. For about a year, the
> Jeep leaked nary a drop. Now (after the fuel problem), it leaks. I took it
> to my mechanic, and he said it was the rear main seal - he also said it's
> not worth fixing for the small amount that is leaking (he predicted $1000 to
> replace the seal right - any thoughts on that?).
> I remember on my 78 CJ5 when I bought it, the first thing I did was replace
> all of the fluids with synthetics. Big mistake. The thing leaked like a
> sieve. Perhaps on this one, I should use a slightly thicker oil or an
> additive for older engines.....any thoughts on that? I live in FLA,
> however, so I don't want anything too heavy.
> BTW: It's an 84 CJ7 with a partially rebuilt 258, Clifford Stage One and
> header.
> One other question: On a Holley Carb (Model 4160, I think - it's a 390 CFM
> with side hung float, see:
> http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SC/0-8007.html) how do
> I lean it out? Since I had it rebuilt, the exhaust gases is really rich
> smelling - burns your eyes if you get too close.....Which screw do I
> adjust??? Thanks - I appreciate the advice!!!!
> Ron

 

After messing around the top of the engine or the valve cover it leaks?

99% it is the valve cover. Those suckers leak if you look at them
sideways, let alone if you do work around them.

If you heat up the engine and while it is running run a clean rag across
the rear of the head below the valve cover and find oil, you have found
the leak.

The cover will drip oil down the back center and do a sweet imitation of
a rear seal leak.

Even if it is a rear seal, it can be done in your driveway in an
afternoon. You just have to drop the oil pan and pull off the rear
bearing cap to replace the seal.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Ronald Keller wrote:
>
> Okay, so y'all helped me with my last dilemma (the mystery of the Jeep that
> would run for fifteen minutes then die for the rest of the day....I just
> replaced everything between the Fuel Tank and the newly rebuilt carb, and
> something did the trick!), so maybe you can help me with a question:
> This is my second twenty year old (almost) Jeep, so I understand the
> concept of old Jeeps leaking oil. No big deal. What I don't understand is
> why it sometimes leaks oil and sometimes doesn't. For about a year, the
> Jeep leaked nary a drop. Now (after the fuel problem), it leaks. I took it
> to my mechanic, and he said it was the rear main seal - he also said it's
> not worth fixing for the small amount that is leaking (he predicted $1000 to
> replace the seal right - any thoughts on that?).
> I remember on my 78 CJ5 when I bought it, the first thing I did was replace
> all of the fluids with synthetics. Big mistake. The thing leaked like a
> sieve. Perhaps on this one, I should use a slightly thicker oil or an
> additive for older engines.....any thoughts on that? I live in FLA,
> however, so I don't want anything too heavy.
> BTW: It's an 84 CJ7 with a partially rebuilt 258, Clifford Stage One and
> header.
> One other question: On a Holley Carb (Model 4160, I think - it's a 390 CFM
> with side hung float, see:
> http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SC/0-8007.html) how do
> I lean it out? Since I had it rebuilt, the exhaust gases is really rich
> smelling - burns your eyes if you get too close.....Which screw do I
> adjust??? Thanks - I appreciate the advice!!!!
> Ron

 

BEFORE YOU SPEND A SINGLE DIME ON THAT REAR MAIN SEAL, spend a couple of
rolls of dimes on a valve cover gasket.

The oil gets pumped to the top of the motor and drips to the bottom again.
The front of the motor is raised above the rear of the motor, and the gasket
likes to break near the firewall, right next to the low point. Do you
suppose if the oil flowed to the low point and pooled a little before
draining back to the bottom, and there was a hole in the gasket, the oil
would not be able to tell the difference in a hole that drains to the
bottom, and one that drains to the outside?

If you really need a rear main, I'll do the job for $500, and a 12-pack.




"Ronald Keller" <rkeller8@tampabay.rr.com> wrote in message
news:sPMbb.1384$eS5.38@twister.tampabay.rr.com...
> Okay, so y'all helped me with my last dilemma (the mystery of the Jeep
that
> would run for fifteen minutes then die for the rest of the day....I just
> replaced everything between the Fuel Tank and the newly rebuilt carb, and
> something did the trick!), so maybe you can help me with a question:
> This is my second twenty year old (almost) Jeep, so I understand the
> concept of old Jeeps leaking oil. No big deal. What I don't understand
is
> why it sometimes leaks oil and sometimes doesn't. For about a year, the
> Jeep leaked nary a drop. Now (after the fuel problem), it leaks. I took
it
> to my mechanic, and he said it was the rear main seal - he also said it's
> not worth fixing for the small amount that is leaking (he predicted $1000
to
> replace the seal right - any thoughts on that?).
> I remember on my 78 CJ5 when I bought it, the first thing I did was
replace
> all of the fluids with synthetics. Big mistake. The thing leaked like a
> sieve. Perhaps on this one, I should use a slightly thicker oil or an
> additive for older engines.....any thoughts on that? I live in FLA,
> however, so I don't want anything too heavy.
> BTW: It's an 84 CJ7 with a partially rebuilt 258, Clifford Stage One and
> header.
> One other question: On a Holley Carb (Model 4160, I think - it's a 390 CFM
> with side hung float, see:
> http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SC/0-8007.html) how
do
> I lean it out? Since I had it rebuilt, the exhaust gases is really rich
> smelling - burns your eyes if you get too close.....Which screw do I
> adjust??? Thanks - I appreciate the advice!!!!
> Ron
>
>