A friend who has one that is about a year and a half old started having
pulsating brakes about a month or so ago. The dealer said that part of the
car was out of warranty and refused to help him. He called Chrysler and
ended up talking with a "ditsy-sounding girl" who said brakes are only
covered for one year. He told her he'd just go back to buying Chevys and she
didn't even respond. He ended up replacing the front rotors at his expense
to fix the problem. Seems to me that the rotors should have been covered,
especially since they were apparently defective. I can understand why the
pads would NOT be covered.

 

The $tealerships have quite a scam going on these days.

This has been verified by so called $tealership 'technicians that post
here.

The rotors and aluminum rims have needed to be put on with a proper
torque wrench for years and years, we started having to do that back in
the 70's even.

If they are not torqued, the rotors 'will' warp. The rims can even warp
too, but that isn't as usual to hear about.

These 'techies' that post here say they weren't taught how to use a
torque wrench on wheels so it isn't 'their' fault they screwed you. Un
huh....

The best scam is they get you to let them rotate the tires for 'free'.
LOL! Ya right, then suddenly 2 weeks later you need new front brakes.

It is a total BS intentional rip off by the $tealerships. The best they
use 'sometimes' is what is called a torque stick on a hammer drill.
Supposedly these will torque on a wheel. They just don't work for
----. New they have well over a +/- 5% which can make the wheel be at
95 ft lb or 105 ft lb. Reality says the sticks are more like over 10%
off. which can make them vary from 90 to 110, way more than enough to
screw the rotors.

You can get a decent enough torque wrench in the $30.00 range to double
check your own lug nuts. It is recommended.

If you want an eye opener, just go look in the service bays of the local
$tealership and see how many techs just hammer the lug nuts on with that
gun, rather than spinning the nuts on and hand finishing them.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Jack Carter wrote:
>
> A friend who has one that is about a year and a half old started having
> pulsating brakes about a month or so ago. The dealer said that part of the
> car was out of warranty and refused to help him. He called Chrysler and
> ended up talking with a "ditsy-sounding girl" who said brakes are only
> covered for one year. He told her he'd just go back to buying Chevys and she
> didn't even respond. He ended up replacing the front rotors at his expense
> to fix the problem. Seems to me that the rotors should have been covered,
> especially since they were apparently defective. I can understand why the
> pads would NOT be covered.

 

The $tealerships have quite a scam going on these days.

This has been verified by so called $tealership 'technicians that post
here.

The rotors and aluminum rims have needed to be put on with a proper
torque wrench for years and years, we started having to do that back in
the 70's even.

If they are not torqued, the rotors 'will' warp. The rims can even warp
too, but that isn't as usual to hear about.

These 'techies' that post here say they weren't taught how to use a
torque wrench on wheels so it isn't 'their' fault they screwed you. Un
huh....

The best scam is they get you to let them rotate the tires for 'free'.
LOL! Ya right, then suddenly 2 weeks later you need new front brakes.

It is a total BS intentional rip off by the $tealerships. The best they
use 'sometimes' is what is called a torque stick on a hammer drill.
Supposedly these will torque on a wheel. They just don't work for
----. New they have well over a +/- 5% which can make the wheel be at
95 ft lb or 105 ft lb. Reality says the sticks are more like over 10%
off. which can make them vary from 90 to 110, way more than enough to
screw the rotors.

You can get a decent enough torque wrench in the $30.00 range to double
check your own lug nuts. It is recommended.

If you want an eye opener, just go look in the service bays of the local
$tealership and see how many techs just hammer the lug nuts on with that
gun, rather than spinning the nuts on and hand finishing them.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Jack Carter wrote:
>
> A friend who has one that is about a year and a half old started having
> pulsating brakes about a month or so ago. The dealer said that part of the
> car was out of warranty and refused to help him. He called Chrysler and
> ended up talking with a "ditsy-sounding girl" who said brakes are only
> covered for one year. He told her he'd just go back to buying Chevys and she
> didn't even respond. He ended up replacing the front rotors at his expense
> to fix the problem. Seems to me that the rotors should have been covered,
> especially since they were apparently defective. I can understand why the
> pads would NOT be covered.

 

The $tealerships have quite a scam going on these days.

This has been verified by so called $tealership 'technicians that post
here.

The rotors and aluminum rims have needed to be put on with a proper
torque wrench for years and years, we started having to do that back in
the 70's even.

If they are not torqued, the rotors 'will' warp. The rims can even warp
too, but that isn't as usual to hear about.

These 'techies' that post here say they weren't taught how to use a
torque wrench on wheels so it isn't 'their' fault they screwed you. Un
huh....

The best scam is they get you to let them rotate the tires for 'free'.
LOL! Ya right, then suddenly 2 weeks later you need new front brakes.

It is a total BS intentional rip off by the $tealerships. The best they
use 'sometimes' is what is called a torque stick on a hammer drill.
Supposedly these will torque on a wheel. They just don't work for
----. New they have well over a +/- 5% which can make the wheel be at
95 ft lb or 105 ft lb. Reality says the sticks are more like over 10%
off. which can make them vary from 90 to 110, way more than enough to
screw the rotors.

You can get a decent enough torque wrench in the $30.00 range to double
check your own lug nuts. It is recommended.

If you want an eye opener, just go look in the service bays of the local
$tealership and see how many techs just hammer the lug nuts on with that
gun, rather than spinning the nuts on and hand finishing them.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Jack Carter wrote:
>
> A friend who has one that is about a year and a half old started having
> pulsating brakes about a month or so ago. The dealer said that part of the
> car was out of warranty and refused to help him. He called Chrysler and
> ended up talking with a "ditsy-sounding girl" who said brakes are only
> covered for one year. He told her he'd just go back to buying Chevys and she
> didn't even respond. He ended up replacing the front rotors at his expense
> to fix the problem. Seems to me that the rotors should have been covered,
> especially since they were apparently defective. I can understand why the
> pads would NOT be covered.

 

These rotors, pads, and calibers were covered at two years:
http://www.----------.com/WJCaliber.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

Jack Carter wrote:
>
> A friend who has one that is about a year and a half old started having
> pulsating brakes about a month or so ago. The dealer said that part of the
> car was out of warranty and refused to help him. He called Chrysler and
> ended up talking with a "ditsy-sounding girl" who said brakes are only
> covered for one year. He told her he'd just go back to buying Chevys and she
> didn't even respond. He ended up replacing the front rotors at his expense
> to fix the problem. Seems to me that the rotors should have been covered,
> especially since they were apparently defective. I can understand why the
> pads would NOT be covered.

 

These rotors, pads, and calibers were covered at two years:
http://www.----------.com/WJCaliber.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

Jack Carter wrote:
>
> A friend who has one that is about a year and a half old started having
> pulsating brakes about a month or so ago. The dealer said that part of the
> car was out of warranty and refused to help him. He called Chrysler and
> ended up talking with a "ditsy-sounding girl" who said brakes are only
> covered for one year. He told her he'd just go back to buying Chevys and she
> didn't even respond. He ended up replacing the front rotors at his expense
> to fix the problem. Seems to me that the rotors should have been covered,
> especially since they were apparently defective. I can understand why the
> pads would NOT be covered.

 

These rotors, pads, and calibers were covered at two years:
http://www.----------.com/WJCaliber.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

Jack Carter wrote:
>
> A friend who has one that is about a year and a half old started having
> pulsating brakes about a month or so ago. The dealer said that part of the
> car was out of warranty and refused to help him. He called Chrysler and
> ended up talking with a "ditsy-sounding girl" who said brakes are only
> covered for one year. He told her he'd just go back to buying Chevys and she
> didn't even respond. He ended up replacing the front rotors at his expense
> to fix the problem. Seems to me that the rotors should have been covered,
> especially since they were apparently defective. I can understand why the
> pads would NOT be covered.

 

Sorry Bill, but you're wrong. Check section F, page 6
of the 2004 Grand Warranty. I just did my '04. New pads
and rotors. You can find the warranty doc here:

http://www.jeep.com/owners/index.html

It states, without exception:

F. When It Ends

The Basic Limited Warranty lasts for 36 months from the date it begins or
for 36,000 miles on the odometer,

whichever occurs first. But the following items are covered only for 12
months or for 12,000 miles on the

odometer, whichever occurs first:

.. brakes (rotors, pads, linings, and drums);

.. wiper blades;

.. clutch discs;

.. windshield and rear window; and

.. wheel alignment and wheel balancing

Paul in VA

 

Sorry Bill, but you're wrong. Check section F, page 6
of the 2004 Grand Warranty. I just did my '04. New pads
and rotors. You can find the warranty doc here:

http://www.jeep.com/owners/index.html

It states, without exception:

F. When It Ends

The Basic Limited Warranty lasts for 36 months from the date it begins or
for 36,000 miles on the odometer,

whichever occurs first. But the following items are covered only for 12
months or for 12,000 miles on the

odometer, whichever occurs first:

.. brakes (rotors, pads, linings, and drums);

.. wiper blades;

.. clutch discs;

.. windshield and rear window; and

.. wheel alignment and wheel balancing

Paul in VA

 

Sorry Bill, but you're wrong. Check section F, page 6
of the 2004 Grand Warranty. I just did my '04. New pads
and rotors. You can find the warranty doc here:

http://www.jeep.com/owners/index.html

It states, without exception:

F. When It Ends

The Basic Limited Warranty lasts for 36 months from the date it begins or
for 36,000 miles on the odometer,

whichever occurs first. But the following items are covered only for 12
months or for 12,000 miles on the

odometer, whichever occurs first:

.. brakes (rotors, pads, linings, and drums);

.. wiper blades;

.. clutch discs;

.. windshield and rear window; and

.. wheel alignment and wheel balancing

Paul in VA