1989 wrangler problem
03-02-2004 | 08:12 PM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1989 wrangler problem
Thanks for the info, it helps when trying to figure out something that
looks like the whole book was tossed at with no fix still...
I am thinking the computer has taken a dump maybe.
The computer sets the mix on the carb dynamically. Can you take off the
air filter and look down the carb throat while it is running to watch
the pins at the back side of the carb? They should be moving as you
give it shots of gas. They are tapered too, and should be in the center
area of the taper. If all the way in so the pin looks fat and even or
all the way out so the pin point shows, you have problems with the
computer.
Look for the stain on the pin too, that will tell you where it normally
runs at.
The computer can be bypassed and the carb can be manually set up for
mix.
Needing 1000 rpm to idle means a lean mix or the pins on the computer's
stepper motor all the way out. They are air mix pins, so full in is
full rich. A manual set via the blocked off mix screws is best with
them stuck in the center.
If you manually set the carb up because the computer has gone by by, the
gas mileage will still suck because the timing advance is also computer
controlled. Once again, it can be manually set up with the computer
controls completely removed.
Here is a link on that:
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm
Mike
"David F." wrote:
>
> The timing was checked both before and after the change. Yes the chain was
> changed due to so much play in it that it was starting to touch the cover.
> This problem started before all changes. Changes in order was spark plugs,
> wires, distributor, pcv valve, carburetor, timing chain, cut off catalytic
> converter, oxygen sensor. And yes I meant one thousand RPMs
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4044DE0C.A1543F52@sympatico.ca...
> > I love it when people insist 'the timing is correct' after it won't run
> > after a timing gear change....
> >
> > How about the order of repairs?
> >
> > Why was the timing chain changed? They do not wear out.
> >
> > Did all this trouble happen after the change?
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > "David F." wrote:
> > >
> > > I have a 1989 Jeep wrangler that will not run at a idle and only is
> getting
> > > about 8 MPG. I have had it in a shop and it ran for a few days. The
> timing
> > > is correct. I have replaced the carburetor, Oxygen sensor, PCV valve,
> timing
> > > chain and sprockets, plugs, wires, distributor. The shop could not find
> a
> > > vacuum leak. The charcoal canister only had the carb vent line and gas
> line
> > > hooked up, the purge lines are both not hooked up. My emission light is
> on.
> > > my temperature gauge does not work. The catalytic converter is cut off.
> For
> > > the most part I have plenty of power. If I set the idle at about 10
> thousand
> > > RPM It runs good other than the bad fuel mileage. The engine has 170
> > > thousand on it but the compression seems to still be good and it doesn't
> > > burn much oil.
looks like the whole book was tossed at with no fix still...
I am thinking the computer has taken a dump maybe.
The computer sets the mix on the carb dynamically. Can you take off the
air filter and look down the carb throat while it is running to watch
the pins at the back side of the carb? They should be moving as you
give it shots of gas. They are tapered too, and should be in the center
area of the taper. If all the way in so the pin looks fat and even or
all the way out so the pin point shows, you have problems with the
computer.
Look for the stain on the pin too, that will tell you where it normally
runs at.
The computer can be bypassed and the carb can be manually set up for
mix.
Needing 1000 rpm to idle means a lean mix or the pins on the computer's
stepper motor all the way out. They are air mix pins, so full in is
full rich. A manual set via the blocked off mix screws is best with
them stuck in the center.
If you manually set the carb up because the computer has gone by by, the
gas mileage will still suck because the timing advance is also computer
controlled. Once again, it can be manually set up with the computer
controls completely removed.
Here is a link on that:
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm
Mike
"David F." wrote:
>
> The timing was checked both before and after the change. Yes the chain was
> changed due to so much play in it that it was starting to touch the cover.
> This problem started before all changes. Changes in order was spark plugs,
> wires, distributor, pcv valve, carburetor, timing chain, cut off catalytic
> converter, oxygen sensor. And yes I meant one thousand RPMs
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4044DE0C.A1543F52@sympatico.ca...
> > I love it when people insist 'the timing is correct' after it won't run
> > after a timing gear change....
> >
> > How about the order of repairs?
> >
> > Why was the timing chain changed? They do not wear out.
> >
> > Did all this trouble happen after the change?
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > "David F." wrote:
> > >
> > > I have a 1989 Jeep wrangler that will not run at a idle and only is
> getting
> > > about 8 MPG. I have had it in a shop and it ran for a few days. The
> timing
> > > is correct. I have replaced the carburetor, Oxygen sensor, PCV valve,
> timing
> > > chain and sprockets, plugs, wires, distributor. The shop could not find
> a
> > > vacuum leak. The charcoal canister only had the carb vent line and gas
> line
> > > hooked up, the purge lines are both not hooked up. My emission light is
> on.
> > > my temperature gauge does not work. The catalytic converter is cut off.
> For
> > > the most part I have plenty of power. If I set the idle at about 10
> thousand
> > > RPM It runs good other than the bad fuel mileage. The engine has 170
> > > thousand on it but the compression seems to still be good and it doesn't
> > > burn much oil.
03-02-2004 | 08:12 PM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1989 wrangler problem
Thanks for the info, it helps when trying to figure out something that
looks like the whole book was tossed at with no fix still...
I am thinking the computer has taken a dump maybe.
The computer sets the mix on the carb dynamically. Can you take off the
air filter and look down the carb throat while it is running to watch
the pins at the back side of the carb? They should be moving as you
give it shots of gas. They are tapered too, and should be in the center
area of the taper. If all the way in so the pin looks fat and even or
all the way out so the pin point shows, you have problems with the
computer.
Look for the stain on the pin too, that will tell you where it normally
runs at.
The computer can be bypassed and the carb can be manually set up for
mix.
Needing 1000 rpm to idle means a lean mix or the pins on the computer's
stepper motor all the way out. They are air mix pins, so full in is
full rich. A manual set via the blocked off mix screws is best with
them stuck in the center.
If you manually set the carb up because the computer has gone by by, the
gas mileage will still suck because the timing advance is also computer
controlled. Once again, it can be manually set up with the computer
controls completely removed.
Here is a link on that:
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm
Mike
"David F." wrote:
>
> The timing was checked both before and after the change. Yes the chain was
> changed due to so much play in it that it was starting to touch the cover.
> This problem started before all changes. Changes in order was spark plugs,
> wires, distributor, pcv valve, carburetor, timing chain, cut off catalytic
> converter, oxygen sensor. And yes I meant one thousand RPMs
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4044DE0C.A1543F52@sympatico.ca...
> > I love it when people insist 'the timing is correct' after it won't run
> > after a timing gear change....
> >
> > How about the order of repairs?
> >
> > Why was the timing chain changed? They do not wear out.
> >
> > Did all this trouble happen after the change?
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > "David F." wrote:
> > >
> > > I have a 1989 Jeep wrangler that will not run at a idle and only is
> getting
> > > about 8 MPG. I have had it in a shop and it ran for a few days. The
> timing
> > > is correct. I have replaced the carburetor, Oxygen sensor, PCV valve,
> timing
> > > chain and sprockets, plugs, wires, distributor. The shop could not find
> a
> > > vacuum leak. The charcoal canister only had the carb vent line and gas
> line
> > > hooked up, the purge lines are both not hooked up. My emission light is
> on.
> > > my temperature gauge does not work. The catalytic converter is cut off.
> For
> > > the most part I have plenty of power. If I set the idle at about 10
> thousand
> > > RPM It runs good other than the bad fuel mileage. The engine has 170
> > > thousand on it but the compression seems to still be good and it doesn't
> > > burn much oil.
looks like the whole book was tossed at with no fix still...
I am thinking the computer has taken a dump maybe.
The computer sets the mix on the carb dynamically. Can you take off the
air filter and look down the carb throat while it is running to watch
the pins at the back side of the carb? They should be moving as you
give it shots of gas. They are tapered too, and should be in the center
area of the taper. If all the way in so the pin looks fat and even or
all the way out so the pin point shows, you have problems with the
computer.
Look for the stain on the pin too, that will tell you where it normally
runs at.
The computer can be bypassed and the carb can be manually set up for
mix.
Needing 1000 rpm to idle means a lean mix or the pins on the computer's
stepper motor all the way out. They are air mix pins, so full in is
full rich. A manual set via the blocked off mix screws is best with
them stuck in the center.
If you manually set the carb up because the computer has gone by by, the
gas mileage will still suck because the timing advance is also computer
controlled. Once again, it can be manually set up with the computer
controls completely removed.
Here is a link on that:
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm
Mike
"David F." wrote:
>
> The timing was checked both before and after the change. Yes the chain was
> changed due to so much play in it that it was starting to touch the cover.
> This problem started before all changes. Changes in order was spark plugs,
> wires, distributor, pcv valve, carburetor, timing chain, cut off catalytic
> converter, oxygen sensor. And yes I meant one thousand RPMs
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4044DE0C.A1543F52@sympatico.ca...
> > I love it when people insist 'the timing is correct' after it won't run
> > after a timing gear change....
> >
> > How about the order of repairs?
> >
> > Why was the timing chain changed? They do not wear out.
> >
> > Did all this trouble happen after the change?
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > "David F." wrote:
> > >
> > > I have a 1989 Jeep wrangler that will not run at a idle and only is
> getting
> > > about 8 MPG. I have had it in a shop and it ran for a few days. The
> timing
> > > is correct. I have replaced the carburetor, Oxygen sensor, PCV valve,
> timing
> > > chain and sprockets, plugs, wires, distributor. The shop could not find
> a
> > > vacuum leak. The charcoal canister only had the carb vent line and gas
> line
> > > hooked up, the purge lines are both not hooked up. My emission light is
> on.
> > > my temperature gauge does not work. The catalytic converter is cut off.
> For
> > > the most part I have plenty of power. If I set the idle at about 10
> thousand
> > > RPM It runs good other than the bad fuel mileage. The engine has 170
> > > thousand on it but the compression seems to still be good and it doesn't
> > > burn much oil.
03-02-2004 | 09:22 PM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1989 wrangler problem
Sorry about the 10,000 rpm crack, Dave, I am just hackin on ya. Welcome to
the group.
Listen to Romain, he knows his stuff.
Jerry
"Christian Fry" <fry_christian@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:2V61c.3721$i_2.48486@news20.bellglobal.com...
> For that much time, effort, and money, a 4.0 swap might be in order...
>
> Chris
>
> "David F." <davidf@nospam.com> wrote in message
> news:Ke31c.86$M85.22282@news.uswest.net...
> > I have a 1989 Jeep wrangler that will not run at a idle and only is
> getting
> > about 8 MPG. I have had it in a shop and it ran for a few days. The
> timing
> > is correct. I have replaced the carburetor, Oxygen sensor, PCV valve,
> timing
> > chain and sprockets, plugs, wires, distributor. The shop could not find
a
> > vacuum leak. The charcoal canister only had the carb vent line and gas
> line
> > hooked up, the purge lines are both not hooked up. My emission light is
> on.
> > my temperature gauge does not work. The catalytic converter is cut off.
> For
> > the most part I have plenty of power. If I set the idle at about 10
> thousand
> > RPM It runs good other than the bad fuel mileage. The engine has 170
> > thousand on it but the compression seems to still be good and it doesn't
> > burn much oil.
> >
> >
>
>
the group.
Listen to Romain, he knows his stuff.
Jerry
"Christian Fry" <fry_christian@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:2V61c.3721$i_2.48486@news20.bellglobal.com...
> For that much time, effort, and money, a 4.0 swap might be in order...
>
> Chris
>
> "David F." <davidf@nospam.com> wrote in message
> news:Ke31c.86$M85.22282@news.uswest.net...
> > I have a 1989 Jeep wrangler that will not run at a idle and only is
> getting
> > about 8 MPG. I have had it in a shop and it ran for a few days. The
> timing
> > is correct. I have replaced the carburetor, Oxygen sensor, PCV valve,
> timing
> > chain and sprockets, plugs, wires, distributor. The shop could not find
a
> > vacuum leak. The charcoal canister only had the carb vent line and gas
> line
> > hooked up, the purge lines are both not hooked up. My emission light is
> on.
> > my temperature gauge does not work. The catalytic converter is cut off.
> For
> > the most part I have plenty of power. If I set the idle at about 10
> thousand
> > RPM It runs good other than the bad fuel mileage. The engine has 170
> > thousand on it but the compression seems to still be good and it doesn't
> > burn much oil.
> >
> >
>
>
03-02-2004 | 09:22 PM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1989 wrangler problem
Sorry about the 10,000 rpm crack, Dave, I am just hackin on ya. Welcome to
the group.
Listen to Romain, he knows his stuff.
Jerry
"Christian Fry" <fry_christian@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:2V61c.3721$i_2.48486@news20.bellglobal.com...
> For that much time, effort, and money, a 4.0 swap might be in order...
>
> Chris
>
> "David F." <davidf@nospam.com> wrote in message
> news:Ke31c.86$M85.22282@news.uswest.net...
> > I have a 1989 Jeep wrangler that will not run at a idle and only is
> getting
> > about 8 MPG. I have had it in a shop and it ran for a few days. The
> timing
> > is correct. I have replaced the carburetor, Oxygen sensor, PCV valve,
> timing
> > chain and sprockets, plugs, wires, distributor. The shop could not find
a
> > vacuum leak. The charcoal canister only had the carb vent line and gas
> line
> > hooked up, the purge lines are both not hooked up. My emission light is
> on.
> > my temperature gauge does not work. The catalytic converter is cut off.
> For
> > the most part I have plenty of power. If I set the idle at about 10
> thousand
> > RPM It runs good other than the bad fuel mileage. The engine has 170
> > thousand on it but the compression seems to still be good and it doesn't
> > burn much oil.
> >
> >
>
>
the group.
Listen to Romain, he knows his stuff.
Jerry
"Christian Fry" <fry_christian@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:2V61c.3721$i_2.48486@news20.bellglobal.com...
> For that much time, effort, and money, a 4.0 swap might be in order...
>
> Chris
>
> "David F." <davidf@nospam.com> wrote in message
> news:Ke31c.86$M85.22282@news.uswest.net...
> > I have a 1989 Jeep wrangler that will not run at a idle and only is
> getting
> > about 8 MPG. I have had it in a shop and it ran for a few days. The
> timing
> > is correct. I have replaced the carburetor, Oxygen sensor, PCV valve,
> timing
> > chain and sprockets, plugs, wires, distributor. The shop could not find
a
> > vacuum leak. The charcoal canister only had the carb vent line and gas
> line
> > hooked up, the purge lines are both not hooked up. My emission light is
> on.
> > my temperature gauge does not work. The catalytic converter is cut off.
> For
> > the most part I have plenty of power. If I set the idle at about 10
> thousand
> > RPM It runs good other than the bad fuel mileage. The engine has 170
> > thousand on it but the compression seems to still be good and it doesn't
> > burn much oil.
> >
> >
>
>
03-02-2004 | 09:22 PM
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1989 wrangler problem
Sorry about the 10,000 rpm crack, Dave, I am just hackin on ya. Welcome to
the group.
Listen to Romain, he knows his stuff.
Jerry
"Christian Fry" <fry_christian@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:2V61c.3721$i_2.48486@news20.bellglobal.com...
> For that much time, effort, and money, a 4.0 swap might be in order...
>
> Chris
>
> "David F." <davidf@nospam.com> wrote in message
> news:Ke31c.86$M85.22282@news.uswest.net...
> > I have a 1989 Jeep wrangler that will not run at a idle and only is
> getting
> > about 8 MPG. I have had it in a shop and it ran for a few days. The
> timing
> > is correct. I have replaced the carburetor, Oxygen sensor, PCV valve,
> timing
> > chain and sprockets, plugs, wires, distributor. The shop could not find
a
> > vacuum leak. The charcoal canister only had the carb vent line and gas
> line
> > hooked up, the purge lines are both not hooked up. My emission light is
> on.
> > my temperature gauge does not work. The catalytic converter is cut off.
> For
> > the most part I have plenty of power. If I set the idle at about 10
> thousand
> > RPM It runs good other than the bad fuel mileage. The engine has 170
> > thousand on it but the compression seems to still be good and it doesn't
> > burn much oil.
> >
> >
>
>
the group.
Listen to Romain, he knows his stuff.
Jerry
"Christian Fry" <fry_christian@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:2V61c.3721$i_2.48486@news20.bellglobal.com...
> For that much time, effort, and money, a 4.0 swap might be in order...
>
> Chris
>
> "David F." <davidf@nospam.com> wrote in message
> news:Ke31c.86$M85.22282@news.uswest.net...
> > I have a 1989 Jeep wrangler that will not run at a idle and only is
> getting
> > about 8 MPG. I have had it in a shop and it ran for a few days. The
> timing
> > is correct. I have replaced the carburetor, Oxygen sensor, PCV valve,
> timing
> > chain and sprockets, plugs, wires, distributor. The shop could not find
a
> > vacuum leak. The charcoal canister only had the carb vent line and gas
> line
> > hooked up, the purge lines are both not hooked up. My emission light is
> on.
> > my temperature gauge does not work. The catalytic converter is cut off.
> For
> > the most part I have plenty of power. If I set the idle at about 10
> thousand
> > RPM It runs good other than the bad fuel mileage. The engine has 170
> > thousand on it but the compression seems to still be good and it doesn't
> > burn much oil.
> >
> >
>
>
03-03-2004 | 12:43 PM
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1989 wrangler problem
Thanks for the help. I think I'll take it back to the shop to see if they
can tell me if the computer is shot.
Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40452300.25F539B1@sympatico.ca...
> Thanks for the info, it helps when trying to figure out something that
> looks like the whole book was tossed at with no fix still...
>
> I am thinking the computer has taken a dump maybe.
>
> The computer sets the mix on the carb dynamically. Can you take off the
> air filter and look down the carb throat while it is running to watch
> the pins at the back side of the carb? They should be moving as you
> give it shots of gas. They are tapered too, and should be in the center
> area of the taper. If all the way in so the pin looks fat and even or
> all the way out so the pin point shows, you have problems with the
> computer.
>
> Look for the stain on the pin too, that will tell you where it normally
> runs at.
>
> The computer can be bypassed and the carb can be manually set up for
> mix.
>
> Needing 1000 rpm to idle means a lean mix or the pins on the computer's
> stepper motor all the way out. They are air mix pins, so full in is
> full rich. A manual set via the blocked off mix screws is best with
> them stuck in the center.
>
> If you manually set the carb up because the computer has gone by by, the
> gas mileage will still suck because the timing advance is also computer
> controlled. Once again, it can be manually set up with the computer
> controls completely removed.
>
> Here is a link on that:
>
> http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm
>
> Mike
>
> "David F." wrote:
> >
> > The timing was checked both before and after the change. Yes the chain
was
> > changed due to so much play in it that it was starting to touch the
cover.
> > This problem started before all changes. Changes in order was spark
plugs,
> > wires, distributor, pcv valve, carburetor, timing chain, cut off
catalytic
> > converter, oxygen sensor. And yes I meant one thousand RPMs
> > Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:4044DE0C.A1543F52@sympatico.ca...
> > > I love it when people insist 'the timing is correct' after it won't
run
> > > after a timing gear change....
> > >
> > > How about the order of repairs?
> > >
> > > Why was the timing chain changed? They do not wear out.
> > >
> > > Did all this trouble happen after the change?
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > "David F." wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I have a 1989 Jeep wrangler that will not run at a idle and only is
> > getting
> > > > about 8 MPG. I have had it in a shop and it ran for a few days. The
> > timing
> > > > is correct. I have replaced the carburetor, Oxygen sensor, PCV
valve,
> > timing
> > > > chain and sprockets, plugs, wires, distributor. The shop could not
find
> > a
> > > > vacuum leak. The charcoal canister only had the carb vent line and
gas
> > line
> > > > hooked up, the purge lines are both not hooked up. My emission light
is
> > on.
> > > > my temperature gauge does not work. The catalytic converter is cut
off.
> > For
> > > > the most part I have plenty of power. If I set the idle at about 10
> > thousand
> > > > RPM It runs good other than the bad fuel mileage. The engine has 170
> > > > thousand on it but the compression seems to still be good and it
doesn't
> > > > burn much oil.
can tell me if the computer is shot.
Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40452300.25F539B1@sympatico.ca...
> Thanks for the info, it helps when trying to figure out something that
> looks like the whole book was tossed at with no fix still...
>
> I am thinking the computer has taken a dump maybe.
>
> The computer sets the mix on the carb dynamically. Can you take off the
> air filter and look down the carb throat while it is running to watch
> the pins at the back side of the carb? They should be moving as you
> give it shots of gas. They are tapered too, and should be in the center
> area of the taper. If all the way in so the pin looks fat and even or
> all the way out so the pin point shows, you have problems with the
> computer.
>
> Look for the stain on the pin too, that will tell you where it normally
> runs at.
>
> The computer can be bypassed and the carb can be manually set up for
> mix.
>
> Needing 1000 rpm to idle means a lean mix or the pins on the computer's
> stepper motor all the way out. They are air mix pins, so full in is
> full rich. A manual set via the blocked off mix screws is best with
> them stuck in the center.
>
> If you manually set the carb up because the computer has gone by by, the
> gas mileage will still suck because the timing advance is also computer
> controlled. Once again, it can be manually set up with the computer
> controls completely removed.
>
> Here is a link on that:
>
> http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm
>
> Mike
>
> "David F." wrote:
> >
> > The timing was checked both before and after the change. Yes the chain
was
> > changed due to so much play in it that it was starting to touch the
cover.
> > This problem started before all changes. Changes in order was spark
plugs,
> > wires, distributor, pcv valve, carburetor, timing chain, cut off
catalytic
> > converter, oxygen sensor. And yes I meant one thousand RPMs
> > Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:4044DE0C.A1543F52@sympatico.ca...
> > > I love it when people insist 'the timing is correct' after it won't
run
> > > after a timing gear change....
> > >
> > > How about the order of repairs?
> > >
> > > Why was the timing chain changed? They do not wear out.
> > >
> > > Did all this trouble happen after the change?
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > "David F." wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I have a 1989 Jeep wrangler that will not run at a idle and only is
> > getting
> > > > about 8 MPG. I have had it in a shop and it ran for a few days. The
> > timing
> > > > is correct. I have replaced the carburetor, Oxygen sensor, PCV
valve,
> > timing
> > > > chain and sprockets, plugs, wires, distributor. The shop could not
find
> > a
> > > > vacuum leak. The charcoal canister only had the carb vent line and
gas
> > line
> > > > hooked up, the purge lines are both not hooked up. My emission light
is
> > on.
> > > > my temperature gauge does not work. The catalytic converter is cut
off.
> > For
> > > > the most part I have plenty of power. If I set the idle at about 10
> > thousand
> > > > RPM It runs good other than the bad fuel mileage. The engine has 170
> > > > thousand on it but the compression seems to still be good and it
doesn't
> > > > burn much oil.
03-03-2004 | 12:43 PM
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1989 wrangler problem
Thanks for the help. I think I'll take it back to the shop to see if they
can tell me if the computer is shot.
Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40452300.25F539B1@sympatico.ca...
> Thanks for the info, it helps when trying to figure out something that
> looks like the whole book was tossed at with no fix still...
>
> I am thinking the computer has taken a dump maybe.
>
> The computer sets the mix on the carb dynamically. Can you take off the
> air filter and look down the carb throat while it is running to watch
> the pins at the back side of the carb? They should be moving as you
> give it shots of gas. They are tapered too, and should be in the center
> area of the taper. If all the way in so the pin looks fat and even or
> all the way out so the pin point shows, you have problems with the
> computer.
>
> Look for the stain on the pin too, that will tell you where it normally
> runs at.
>
> The computer can be bypassed and the carb can be manually set up for
> mix.
>
> Needing 1000 rpm to idle means a lean mix or the pins on the computer's
> stepper motor all the way out. They are air mix pins, so full in is
> full rich. A manual set via the blocked off mix screws is best with
> them stuck in the center.
>
> If you manually set the carb up because the computer has gone by by, the
> gas mileage will still suck because the timing advance is also computer
> controlled. Once again, it can be manually set up with the computer
> controls completely removed.
>
> Here is a link on that:
>
> http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm
>
> Mike
>
> "David F." wrote:
> >
> > The timing was checked both before and after the change. Yes the chain
was
> > changed due to so much play in it that it was starting to touch the
cover.
> > This problem started before all changes. Changes in order was spark
plugs,
> > wires, distributor, pcv valve, carburetor, timing chain, cut off
catalytic
> > converter, oxygen sensor. And yes I meant one thousand RPMs
> > Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:4044DE0C.A1543F52@sympatico.ca...
> > > I love it when people insist 'the timing is correct' after it won't
run
> > > after a timing gear change....
> > >
> > > How about the order of repairs?
> > >
> > > Why was the timing chain changed? They do not wear out.
> > >
> > > Did all this trouble happen after the change?
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > "David F." wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I have a 1989 Jeep wrangler that will not run at a idle and only is
> > getting
> > > > about 8 MPG. I have had it in a shop and it ran for a few days. The
> > timing
> > > > is correct. I have replaced the carburetor, Oxygen sensor, PCV
valve,
> > timing
> > > > chain and sprockets, plugs, wires, distributor. The shop could not
find
> > a
> > > > vacuum leak. The charcoal canister only had the carb vent line and
gas
> > line
> > > > hooked up, the purge lines are both not hooked up. My emission light
is
> > on.
> > > > my temperature gauge does not work. The catalytic converter is cut
off.
> > For
> > > > the most part I have plenty of power. If I set the idle at about 10
> > thousand
> > > > RPM It runs good other than the bad fuel mileage. The engine has 170
> > > > thousand on it but the compression seems to still be good and it
doesn't
> > > > burn much oil.
can tell me if the computer is shot.
Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40452300.25F539B1@sympatico.ca...
> Thanks for the info, it helps when trying to figure out something that
> looks like the whole book was tossed at with no fix still...
>
> I am thinking the computer has taken a dump maybe.
>
> The computer sets the mix on the carb dynamically. Can you take off the
> air filter and look down the carb throat while it is running to watch
> the pins at the back side of the carb? They should be moving as you
> give it shots of gas. They are tapered too, and should be in the center
> area of the taper. If all the way in so the pin looks fat and even or
> all the way out so the pin point shows, you have problems with the
> computer.
>
> Look for the stain on the pin too, that will tell you where it normally
> runs at.
>
> The computer can be bypassed and the carb can be manually set up for
> mix.
>
> Needing 1000 rpm to idle means a lean mix or the pins on the computer's
> stepper motor all the way out. They are air mix pins, so full in is
> full rich. A manual set via the blocked off mix screws is best with
> them stuck in the center.
>
> If you manually set the carb up because the computer has gone by by, the
> gas mileage will still suck because the timing advance is also computer
> controlled. Once again, it can be manually set up with the computer
> controls completely removed.
>
> Here is a link on that:
>
> http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm
>
> Mike
>
> "David F." wrote:
> >
> > The timing was checked both before and after the change. Yes the chain
was
> > changed due to so much play in it that it was starting to touch the
cover.
> > This problem started before all changes. Changes in order was spark
plugs,
> > wires, distributor, pcv valve, carburetor, timing chain, cut off
catalytic
> > converter, oxygen sensor. And yes I meant one thousand RPMs
> > Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:4044DE0C.A1543F52@sympatico.ca...
> > > I love it when people insist 'the timing is correct' after it won't
run
> > > after a timing gear change....
> > >
> > > How about the order of repairs?
> > >
> > > Why was the timing chain changed? They do not wear out.
> > >
> > > Did all this trouble happen after the change?
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > "David F." wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I have a 1989 Jeep wrangler that will not run at a idle and only is
> > getting
> > > > about 8 MPG. I have had it in a shop and it ran for a few days. The
> > timing
> > > > is correct. I have replaced the carburetor, Oxygen sensor, PCV
valve,
> > timing
> > > > chain and sprockets, plugs, wires, distributor. The shop could not
find
> > a
> > > > vacuum leak. The charcoal canister only had the carb vent line and
gas
> > line
> > > > hooked up, the purge lines are both not hooked up. My emission light
is
> > on.
> > > > my temperature gauge does not work. The catalytic converter is cut
off.
> > For
> > > > the most part I have plenty of power. If I set the idle at about 10
> > thousand
> > > > RPM It runs good other than the bad fuel mileage. The engine has 170
> > > > thousand on it but the compression seems to still be good and it
doesn't
> > > > burn much oil.
03-03-2004 | 12:43 PM
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1989 wrangler problem
Thanks for the help. I think I'll take it back to the shop to see if they
can tell me if the computer is shot.
Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40452300.25F539B1@sympatico.ca...
> Thanks for the info, it helps when trying to figure out something that
> looks like the whole book was tossed at with no fix still...
>
> I am thinking the computer has taken a dump maybe.
>
> The computer sets the mix on the carb dynamically. Can you take off the
> air filter and look down the carb throat while it is running to watch
> the pins at the back side of the carb? They should be moving as you
> give it shots of gas. They are tapered too, and should be in the center
> area of the taper. If all the way in so the pin looks fat and even or
> all the way out so the pin point shows, you have problems with the
> computer.
>
> Look for the stain on the pin too, that will tell you where it normally
> runs at.
>
> The computer can be bypassed and the carb can be manually set up for
> mix.
>
> Needing 1000 rpm to idle means a lean mix or the pins on the computer's
> stepper motor all the way out. They are air mix pins, so full in is
> full rich. A manual set via the blocked off mix screws is best with
> them stuck in the center.
>
> If you manually set the carb up because the computer has gone by by, the
> gas mileage will still suck because the timing advance is also computer
> controlled. Once again, it can be manually set up with the computer
> controls completely removed.
>
> Here is a link on that:
>
> http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm
>
> Mike
>
> "David F." wrote:
> >
> > The timing was checked both before and after the change. Yes the chain
was
> > changed due to so much play in it that it was starting to touch the
cover.
> > This problem started before all changes. Changes in order was spark
plugs,
> > wires, distributor, pcv valve, carburetor, timing chain, cut off
catalytic
> > converter, oxygen sensor. And yes I meant one thousand RPMs
> > Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:4044DE0C.A1543F52@sympatico.ca...
> > > I love it when people insist 'the timing is correct' after it won't
run
> > > after a timing gear change....
> > >
> > > How about the order of repairs?
> > >
> > > Why was the timing chain changed? They do not wear out.
> > >
> > > Did all this trouble happen after the change?
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > "David F." wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I have a 1989 Jeep wrangler that will not run at a idle and only is
> > getting
> > > > about 8 MPG. I have had it in a shop and it ran for a few days. The
> > timing
> > > > is correct. I have replaced the carburetor, Oxygen sensor, PCV
valve,
> > timing
> > > > chain and sprockets, plugs, wires, distributor. The shop could not
find
> > a
> > > > vacuum leak. The charcoal canister only had the carb vent line and
gas
> > line
> > > > hooked up, the purge lines are both not hooked up. My emission light
is
> > on.
> > > > my temperature gauge does not work. The catalytic converter is cut
off.
> > For
> > > > the most part I have plenty of power. If I set the idle at about 10
> > thousand
> > > > RPM It runs good other than the bad fuel mileage. The engine has 170
> > > > thousand on it but the compression seems to still be good and it
doesn't
> > > > burn much oil.
can tell me if the computer is shot.
Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40452300.25F539B1@sympatico.ca...
> Thanks for the info, it helps when trying to figure out something that
> looks like the whole book was tossed at with no fix still...
>
> I am thinking the computer has taken a dump maybe.
>
> The computer sets the mix on the carb dynamically. Can you take off the
> air filter and look down the carb throat while it is running to watch
> the pins at the back side of the carb? They should be moving as you
> give it shots of gas. They are tapered too, and should be in the center
> area of the taper. If all the way in so the pin looks fat and even or
> all the way out so the pin point shows, you have problems with the
> computer.
>
> Look for the stain on the pin too, that will tell you where it normally
> runs at.
>
> The computer can be bypassed and the carb can be manually set up for
> mix.
>
> Needing 1000 rpm to idle means a lean mix or the pins on the computer's
> stepper motor all the way out. They are air mix pins, so full in is
> full rich. A manual set via the blocked off mix screws is best with
> them stuck in the center.
>
> If you manually set the carb up because the computer has gone by by, the
> gas mileage will still suck because the timing advance is also computer
> controlled. Once again, it can be manually set up with the computer
> controls completely removed.
>
> Here is a link on that:
>
> http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm
>
> Mike
>
> "David F." wrote:
> >
> > The timing was checked both before and after the change. Yes the chain
was
> > changed due to so much play in it that it was starting to touch the
cover.
> > This problem started before all changes. Changes in order was spark
plugs,
> > wires, distributor, pcv valve, carburetor, timing chain, cut off
catalytic
> > converter, oxygen sensor. And yes I meant one thousand RPMs
> > Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:4044DE0C.A1543F52@sympatico.ca...
> > > I love it when people insist 'the timing is correct' after it won't
run
> > > after a timing gear change....
> > >
> > > How about the order of repairs?
> > >
> > > Why was the timing chain changed? They do not wear out.
> > >
> > > Did all this trouble happen after the change?
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > "David F." wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I have a 1989 Jeep wrangler that will not run at a idle and only is
> > getting
> > > > about 8 MPG. I have had it in a shop and it ran for a few days. The
> > timing
> > > > is correct. I have replaced the carburetor, Oxygen sensor, PCV
valve,
> > timing
> > > > chain and sprockets, plugs, wires, distributor. The shop could not
find
> > a
> > > > vacuum leak. The charcoal canister only had the carb vent line and
gas
> > line
> > > > hooked up, the purge lines are both not hooked up. My emission light
is
> > on.
> > > > my temperature gauge does not work. The catalytic converter is cut
off.
> > For
> > > > the most part I have plenty of power. If I set the idle at about 10
> > thousand
> > > > RPM It runs good other than the bad fuel mileage. The engine has 170
> > > > thousand on it but the compression seems to still be good and it
doesn't
> > > > burn much oil.