A friend of mine wants to get an inexpensive vehicle to take on the
trail. He wants room in it to take camping gear and friends, but wants
it to be able to take him places his subaru wrx can't get.

He knows I'm into Jeeping and off-roading, so he's asked my opinion on
some inexpensive older vehicles to get. So, I'm going to ask here, as
my knowledge on Jeeps is limited mostly to the years of the TJ, with
only some sparse knowledge of older YJs or CJs. My knowledge of the
older Cherokee/Wagoneer vehicles is limited, if not nonexistent.

1) What is a good cheap vehicle to buy? Something that will hold up
well and not be a bear to maintain? Old Bronco? Old Wagoneer such as
the 1997 he is looking at? Something else?

2) He has found a 1979 Wagoneer with only 10000 miles on a new engine.
I haven't seen it, and he's not familiar with all the components to
check, so what would come standard on this vehicle? What is good on
it? What's bad? He says there is some rust on it...what kind of rust
is ok and what should he run away from? How difficult is it to repair
rust (he says there was a small rusted-through hole in the floor
behind the drivers side seat/door)? What type of transfer case,
transmission, axles, etc. are on this? I'm probably going to end up
going and checking it out with him, so I want to go armed with as much
knowledge about these particular vehicles as possible. He says the
current owner says the "u-joints will probably need to be replaced".
If this is so, there has probably been existing vibes in the
driveline; any tell-tale ways to check if such vibrations have caused
any trouble in the t-case or diffs (bearings, etc) besides the normal
bad-seal symptom of oily diff/t-case skid?

3) Do you think a vehicle like the one mentioned here would be worth
$900? (I understand I have little to no detail about the vehicle
included here, I'm just telling you what he knows so far, but I'm
hoping you can at least tell me if this year of Wagoneer could be a
good deal in this ball park.)

4) Since the engine is new, is there anything we should check to see
if the engine swap is good, that it was installed well and has no
problems (hoping this isn't a case where someone had this as a project
vehicle, futzed up the engine install, and is now trying to sell it
off and recover a little of his money).

I'll stop there, so I don't get this too terribly long. I appreciate
any and all help and comments.

Thanks,
Bob

 

Back in '79 that was probably the most expensive car in the world,
it'll more than likely have full power everything, lots of stuff to go
wrong. I don't like it's full time four wheel drive, and if something
goes wrong with it it's cost a bundle. But, the new engine makes believe
it was worth another three grand just last year. A Wagoneer club at:
http://www.ifsja.org/index.shtml with a message forum that may answer
many of your questions.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Bob wrote:
>
> A friend of mine wants to get an inexpensive vehicle to take on the
> trail. He wants room in it to take camping gear and friends, but wants
> it to be able to take him places his subaru wrx can't get.
>
> He knows I'm into Jeeping and off-roading, so he's asked my opinion on
> some inexpensive older vehicles to get. So, I'm going to ask here, as
> my knowledge on Jeeps is limited mostly to the years of the TJ, with
> only some sparse knowledge of older YJs or CJs. My knowledge of the
> older Cherokee/Wagoneer vehicles is limited, if not nonexistent.
>
> 1) What is a good cheap vehicle to buy? Something that will hold up
> well and not be a bear to maintain? Old Bronco? Old Wagoneer such as
> the 1997 he is looking at? Something else?
>
> 2) He has found a 1979 Wagoneer with only 10000 miles on a new engine.
> I haven't seen it, and he's not familiar with all the components to
> check, so what would come standard on this vehicle? What is good on
> it? What's bad? He says there is some rust on it...what kind of rust
> is ok and what should he run away from? How difficult is it to repair
> rust (he says there was a small rusted-through hole in the floor
> behind the drivers side seat/door)? What type of transfer case,
> transmission, axles, etc. are on this? I'm probably going to end up
> going and checking it out with him, so I want to go armed with as much
> knowledge about these particular vehicles as possible. He says the
> current owner says the "u-joints will probably need to be replaced".
> If this is so, there has probably been existing vibes in the
> driveline; any tell-tale ways to check if such vibrations have caused
> any trouble in the t-case or diffs (bearings, etc) besides the normal
> bad-seal symptom of oily diff/t-case skid?
>
> 3) Do you think a vehicle like the one mentioned here would be worth
> $900? (I understand I have little to no detail about the vehicle
> included here, I'm just telling you what he knows so far, but I'm
> hoping you can at least tell me if this year of Wagoneer could be a
> good deal in this ball park.)
>
> 4) Since the engine is new, is there anything we should check to see
> if the engine swap is good, that it was installed well and has no
> problems (hoping this isn't a case where someone had this as a project
> vehicle, futzed up the engine install, and is now trying to sell it
> off and recover a little of his money).
>
> I'll stop there, so I don't get this too terribly long. I appreciate
> any and all help and comments.
>
> Thanks,
> Bob

 

Back in '79 that was probably the most expensive car in the world,
it'll more than likely have full power everything, lots of stuff to go
wrong. I don't like it's full time four wheel drive, and if something
goes wrong with it it's cost a bundle. But, the new engine makes believe
it was worth another three grand just last year. A Wagoneer club at:
http://www.ifsja.org/index.shtml with a message forum that may answer
many of your questions.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Bob wrote:
>
> A friend of mine wants to get an inexpensive vehicle to take on the
> trail. He wants room in it to take camping gear and friends, but wants
> it to be able to take him places his subaru wrx can't get.
>
> He knows I'm into Jeeping and off-roading, so he's asked my opinion on
> some inexpensive older vehicles to get. So, I'm going to ask here, as
> my knowledge on Jeeps is limited mostly to the years of the TJ, with
> only some sparse knowledge of older YJs or CJs. My knowledge of the
> older Cherokee/Wagoneer vehicles is limited, if not nonexistent.
>
> 1) What is a good cheap vehicle to buy? Something that will hold up
> well and not be a bear to maintain? Old Bronco? Old Wagoneer such as
> the 1997 he is looking at? Something else?
>
> 2) He has found a 1979 Wagoneer with only 10000 miles on a new engine.
> I haven't seen it, and he's not familiar with all the components to
> check, so what would come standard on this vehicle? What is good on
> it? What's bad? He says there is some rust on it...what kind of rust
> is ok and what should he run away from? How difficult is it to repair
> rust (he says there was a small rusted-through hole in the floor
> behind the drivers side seat/door)? What type of transfer case,
> transmission, axles, etc. are on this? I'm probably going to end up
> going and checking it out with him, so I want to go armed with as much
> knowledge about these particular vehicles as possible. He says the
> current owner says the "u-joints will probably need to be replaced".
> If this is so, there has probably been existing vibes in the
> driveline; any tell-tale ways to check if such vibrations have caused
> any trouble in the t-case or diffs (bearings, etc) besides the normal
> bad-seal symptom of oily diff/t-case skid?
>
> 3) Do you think a vehicle like the one mentioned here would be worth
> $900? (I understand I have little to no detail about the vehicle
> included here, I'm just telling you what he knows so far, but I'm
> hoping you can at least tell me if this year of Wagoneer could be a
> good deal in this ball park.)
>
> 4) Since the engine is new, is there anything we should check to see
> if the engine swap is good, that it was installed well and has no
> problems (hoping this isn't a case where someone had this as a project
> vehicle, futzed up the engine install, and is now trying to sell it
> off and recover a little of his money).
>
> I'll stop there, so I don't get this too terribly long. I appreciate
> any and all help and comments.
>
> Thanks,
> Bob

 

Back in '79 that was probably the most expensive car in the world,
it'll more than likely have full power everything, lots of stuff to go
wrong. I don't like it's full time four wheel drive, and if something
goes wrong with it it's cost a bundle. But, the new engine makes believe
it was worth another three grand just last year. A Wagoneer club at:
http://www.ifsja.org/index.shtml with a message forum that may answer
many of your questions.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Bob wrote:
>
> A friend of mine wants to get an inexpensive vehicle to take on the
> trail. He wants room in it to take camping gear and friends, but wants
> it to be able to take him places his subaru wrx can't get.
>
> He knows I'm into Jeeping and off-roading, so he's asked my opinion on
> some inexpensive older vehicles to get. So, I'm going to ask here, as
> my knowledge on Jeeps is limited mostly to the years of the TJ, with
> only some sparse knowledge of older YJs or CJs. My knowledge of the
> older Cherokee/Wagoneer vehicles is limited, if not nonexistent.
>
> 1) What is a good cheap vehicle to buy? Something that will hold up
> well and not be a bear to maintain? Old Bronco? Old Wagoneer such as
> the 1997 he is looking at? Something else?
>
> 2) He has found a 1979 Wagoneer with only 10000 miles on a new engine.
> I haven't seen it, and he's not familiar with all the components to
> check, so what would come standard on this vehicle? What is good on
> it? What's bad? He says there is some rust on it...what kind of rust
> is ok and what should he run away from? How difficult is it to repair
> rust (he says there was a small rusted-through hole in the floor
> behind the drivers side seat/door)? What type of transfer case,
> transmission, axles, etc. are on this? I'm probably going to end up
> going and checking it out with him, so I want to go armed with as much
> knowledge about these particular vehicles as possible. He says the
> current owner says the "u-joints will probably need to be replaced".
> If this is so, there has probably been existing vibes in the
> driveline; any tell-tale ways to check if such vibrations have caused
> any trouble in the t-case or diffs (bearings, etc) besides the normal
> bad-seal symptom of oily diff/t-case skid?
>
> 3) Do you think a vehicle like the one mentioned here would be worth
> $900? (I understand I have little to no detail about the vehicle
> included here, I'm just telling you what he knows so far, but I'm
> hoping you can at least tell me if this year of Wagoneer could be a
> good deal in this ball park.)
>
> 4) Since the engine is new, is there anything we should check to see
> if the engine swap is good, that it was installed well and has no
> problems (hoping this isn't a case where someone had this as a project
> vehicle, futzed up the engine install, and is now trying to sell it
> off and recover a little of his money).
>
> I'll stop there, so I don't get this too terribly long. I appreciate
> any and all help and comments.
>
> Thanks,
> Bob

 

Back in '79 that was probably the most expensive car in the world,
it'll more than likely have full power everything, lots of stuff to go
wrong. I don't like it's full time four wheel drive, and if something
goes wrong with it it's cost a bundle. But, the new engine makes believe
it was worth another three grand just last year. A Wagoneer club at:
http://www.ifsja.org/index.shtml with a message forum that may answer
many of your questions.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Bob wrote:
>
> A friend of mine wants to get an inexpensive vehicle to take on the
> trail. He wants room in it to take camping gear and friends, but wants
> it to be able to take him places his subaru wrx can't get.
>
> He knows I'm into Jeeping and off-roading, so he's asked my opinion on
> some inexpensive older vehicles to get. So, I'm going to ask here, as
> my knowledge on Jeeps is limited mostly to the years of the TJ, with
> only some sparse knowledge of older YJs or CJs. My knowledge of the
> older Cherokee/Wagoneer vehicles is limited, if not nonexistent.
>
> 1) What is a good cheap vehicle to buy? Something that will hold up
> well and not be a bear to maintain? Old Bronco? Old Wagoneer such as
> the 1997 he is looking at? Something else?
>
> 2) He has found a 1979 Wagoneer with only 10000 miles on a new engine.
> I haven't seen it, and he's not familiar with all the components to
> check, so what would come standard on this vehicle? What is good on
> it? What's bad? He says there is some rust on it...what kind of rust
> is ok and what should he run away from? How difficult is it to repair
> rust (he says there was a small rusted-through hole in the floor
> behind the drivers side seat/door)? What type of transfer case,
> transmission, axles, etc. are on this? I'm probably going to end up
> going and checking it out with him, so I want to go armed with as much
> knowledge about these particular vehicles as possible. He says the
> current owner says the "u-joints will probably need to be replaced".
> If this is so, there has probably been existing vibes in the
> driveline; any tell-tale ways to check if such vibrations have caused
> any trouble in the t-case or diffs (bearings, etc) besides the normal
> bad-seal symptom of oily diff/t-case skid?
>
> 3) Do you think a vehicle like the one mentioned here would be worth
> $900? (I understand I have little to no detail about the vehicle
> included here, I'm just telling you what he knows so far, but I'm
> hoping you can at least tell me if this year of Wagoneer could be a
> good deal in this ball park.)
>
> 4) Since the engine is new, is there anything we should check to see
> if the engine swap is good, that it was installed well and has no
> problems (hoping this isn't a case where someone had this as a project
> vehicle, futzed up the engine install, and is now trying to sell it
> off and recover a little of his money).
>
> I'll stop there, so I don't get this too terribly long. I appreciate
> any and all help and comments.
>
> Thanks,
> Bob

 

Anything old with power windows, seats, etc. is generally bad news. Old
electric's do 'not' take well to off roading.

Other than that, the old tank he is looking at is about as big and
rugged a Jeep as you can get. Fuel consumption is in gallons per hour
too....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Bob wrote:
>
> A friend of mine wants to get an inexpensive vehicle to take on the
> trail. He wants room in it to take camping gear and friends, but wants
> it to be able to take him places his subaru wrx can't get.
>
> He knows I'm into Jeeping and off-roading, so he's asked my opinion on
> some inexpensive older vehicles to get. So, I'm going to ask here, as
> my knowledge on Jeeps is limited mostly to the years of the TJ, with
> only some sparse knowledge of older YJs or CJs. My knowledge of the
> older Cherokee/Wagoneer vehicles is limited, if not nonexistent.
>
> 1) What is a good cheap vehicle to buy? Something that will hold up
> well and not be a bear to maintain? Old Bronco? Old Wagoneer such as
> the 1997 he is looking at? Something else?
>
> 2) He has found a 1979 Wagoneer with only 10000 miles on a new engine.
> I haven't seen it, and he's not familiar with all the components to
> check, so what would come standard on this vehicle? What is good on
> it? What's bad? He says there is some rust on it...what kind of rust
> is ok and what should he run away from? How difficult is it to repair
> rust (he says there was a small rusted-through hole in the floor
> behind the drivers side seat/door)? What type of transfer case,
> transmission, axles, etc. are on this? I'm probably going to end up
> going and checking it out with him, so I want to go armed with as much
> knowledge about these particular vehicles as possible. He says the
> current owner says the "u-joints will probably need to be replaced".
> If this is so, there has probably been existing vibes in the
> driveline; any tell-tale ways to check if such vibrations have caused
> any trouble in the t-case or diffs (bearings, etc) besides the normal
> bad-seal symptom of oily diff/t-case skid?
>
> 3) Do you think a vehicle like the one mentioned here would be worth
> $900? (I understand I have little to no detail about the vehicle
> included here, I'm just telling you what he knows so far, but I'm
> hoping you can at least tell me if this year of Wagoneer could be a
> good deal in this ball park.)
>
> 4) Since the engine is new, is there anything we should check to see
> if the engine swap is good, that it was installed well and has no
> problems (hoping this isn't a case where someone had this as a project
> vehicle, futzed up the engine install, and is now trying to sell it
> off and recover a little of his money).
>
> I'll stop there, so I don't get this too terribly long. I appreciate
> any and all help and comments.
>
> Thanks,
> Bob

 

Anything old with power windows, seats, etc. is generally bad news. Old
electric's do 'not' take well to off roading.

Other than that, the old tank he is looking at is about as big and
rugged a Jeep as you can get. Fuel consumption is in gallons per hour
too....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Bob wrote:
>
> A friend of mine wants to get an inexpensive vehicle to take on the
> trail. He wants room in it to take camping gear and friends, but wants
> it to be able to take him places his subaru wrx can't get.
>
> He knows I'm into Jeeping and off-roading, so he's asked my opinion on
> some inexpensive older vehicles to get. So, I'm going to ask here, as
> my knowledge on Jeeps is limited mostly to the years of the TJ, with
> only some sparse knowledge of older YJs or CJs. My knowledge of the
> older Cherokee/Wagoneer vehicles is limited, if not nonexistent.
>
> 1) What is a good cheap vehicle to buy? Something that will hold up
> well and not be a bear to maintain? Old Bronco? Old Wagoneer such as
> the 1997 he is looking at? Something else?
>
> 2) He has found a 1979 Wagoneer with only 10000 miles on a new engine.
> I haven't seen it, and he's not familiar with all the components to
> check, so what would come standard on this vehicle? What is good on
> it? What's bad? He says there is some rust on it...what kind of rust
> is ok and what should he run away from? How difficult is it to repair
> rust (he says there was a small rusted-through hole in the floor
> behind the drivers side seat/door)? What type of transfer case,
> transmission, axles, etc. are on this? I'm probably going to end up
> going and checking it out with him, so I want to go armed with as much
> knowledge about these particular vehicles as possible. He says the
> current owner says the "u-joints will probably need to be replaced".
> If this is so, there has probably been existing vibes in the
> driveline; any tell-tale ways to check if such vibrations have caused
> any trouble in the t-case or diffs (bearings, etc) besides the normal
> bad-seal symptom of oily diff/t-case skid?
>
> 3) Do you think a vehicle like the one mentioned here would be worth
> $900? (I understand I have little to no detail about the vehicle
> included here, I'm just telling you what he knows so far, but I'm
> hoping you can at least tell me if this year of Wagoneer could be a
> good deal in this ball park.)
>
> 4) Since the engine is new, is there anything we should check to see
> if the engine swap is good, that it was installed well and has no
> problems (hoping this isn't a case where someone had this as a project
> vehicle, futzed up the engine install, and is now trying to sell it
> off and recover a little of his money).
>
> I'll stop there, so I don't get this too terribly long. I appreciate
> any and all help and comments.
>
> Thanks,
> Bob

 

Anything old with power windows, seats, etc. is generally bad news. Old
electric's do 'not' take well to off roading.

Other than that, the old tank he is looking at is about as big and
rugged a Jeep as you can get. Fuel consumption is in gallons per hour
too....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Bob wrote:
>
> A friend of mine wants to get an inexpensive vehicle to take on the
> trail. He wants room in it to take camping gear and friends, but wants
> it to be able to take him places his subaru wrx can't get.
>
> He knows I'm into Jeeping and off-roading, so he's asked my opinion on
> some inexpensive older vehicles to get. So, I'm going to ask here, as
> my knowledge on Jeeps is limited mostly to the years of the TJ, with
> only some sparse knowledge of older YJs or CJs. My knowledge of the
> older Cherokee/Wagoneer vehicles is limited, if not nonexistent.
>
> 1) What is a good cheap vehicle to buy? Something that will hold up
> well and not be a bear to maintain? Old Bronco? Old Wagoneer such as
> the 1997 he is looking at? Something else?
>
> 2) He has found a 1979 Wagoneer with only 10000 miles on a new engine.
> I haven't seen it, and he's not familiar with all the components to
> check, so what would come standard on this vehicle? What is good on
> it? What's bad? He says there is some rust on it...what kind of rust
> is ok and what should he run away from? How difficult is it to repair
> rust (he says there was a small rusted-through hole in the floor
> behind the drivers side seat/door)? What type of transfer case,
> transmission, axles, etc. are on this? I'm probably going to end up
> going and checking it out with him, so I want to go armed with as much
> knowledge about these particular vehicles as possible. He says the
> current owner says the "u-joints will probably need to be replaced".
> If this is so, there has probably been existing vibes in the
> driveline; any tell-tale ways to check if such vibrations have caused
> any trouble in the t-case or diffs (bearings, etc) besides the normal
> bad-seal symptom of oily diff/t-case skid?
>
> 3) Do you think a vehicle like the one mentioned here would be worth
> $900? (I understand I have little to no detail about the vehicle
> included here, I'm just telling you what he knows so far, but I'm
> hoping you can at least tell me if this year of Wagoneer could be a
> good deal in this ball park.)
>
> 4) Since the engine is new, is there anything we should check to see
> if the engine swap is good, that it was installed well and has no
> problems (hoping this isn't a case where someone had this as a project
> vehicle, futzed up the engine install, and is now trying to sell it
> off and recover a little of his money).
>
> I'll stop there, so I don't get this too terribly long. I appreciate
> any and all help and comments.
>
> Thanks,
> Bob

 

Anything old with power windows, seats, etc. is generally bad news. Old
electric's do 'not' take well to off roading.

Other than that, the old tank he is looking at is about as big and
rugged a Jeep as you can get. Fuel consumption is in gallons per hour
too....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Bob wrote:
>
> A friend of mine wants to get an inexpensive vehicle to take on the
> trail. He wants room in it to take camping gear and friends, but wants
> it to be able to take him places his subaru wrx can't get.
>
> He knows I'm into Jeeping and off-roading, so he's asked my opinion on
> some inexpensive older vehicles to get. So, I'm going to ask here, as
> my knowledge on Jeeps is limited mostly to the years of the TJ, with
> only some sparse knowledge of older YJs or CJs. My knowledge of the
> older Cherokee/Wagoneer vehicles is limited, if not nonexistent.
>
> 1) What is a good cheap vehicle to buy? Something that will hold up
> well and not be a bear to maintain? Old Bronco? Old Wagoneer such as
> the 1997 he is looking at? Something else?
>
> 2) He has found a 1979 Wagoneer with only 10000 miles on a new engine.
> I haven't seen it, and he's not familiar with all the components to
> check, so what would come standard on this vehicle? What is good on
> it? What's bad? He says there is some rust on it...what kind of rust
> is ok and what should he run away from? How difficult is it to repair
> rust (he says there was a small rusted-through hole in the floor
> behind the drivers side seat/door)? What type of transfer case,
> transmission, axles, etc. are on this? I'm probably going to end up
> going and checking it out with him, so I want to go armed with as much
> knowledge about these particular vehicles as possible. He says the
> current owner says the "u-joints will probably need to be replaced".
> If this is so, there has probably been existing vibes in the
> driveline; any tell-tale ways to check if such vibrations have caused
> any trouble in the t-case or diffs (bearings, etc) besides the normal
> bad-seal symptom of oily diff/t-case skid?
>
> 3) Do you think a vehicle like the one mentioned here would be worth
> $900? (I understand I have little to no detail about the vehicle
> included here, I'm just telling you what he knows so far, but I'm
> hoping you can at least tell me if this year of Wagoneer could be a
> good deal in this ball park.)
>
> 4) Since the engine is new, is there anything we should check to see
> if the engine swap is good, that it was installed well and has no
> problems (hoping this isn't a case where someone had this as a project
> vehicle, futzed up the engine install, and is now trying to sell it
> off and recover a little of his money).
>
> I'll stop there, so I don't get this too terribly long. I appreciate
> any and all help and comments.
>
> Thanks,
> Bob

 

Old and inexpensive is an oxymoron, old equals expensive especially if you
want reliability. I do not know about anyone else but, I would prefer
reliability and not be left out in God forsaken no where. Yes, you may pay
very little for a older vehicle but, pay me now or pay me later.

--
HarryS
"Bob" <magicclaw@mac.com> wrote in message
news:47b769ae.0408171214.581ea410@posting.google.c om...
> A friend of mine wants to get an inexpensive vehicle to take on the
> trail. He wants room in it to take camping gear and friends, but wants
> it to be able to take him places his subaru wrx can't get.
>
> He knows I'm into Jeeping and off-roading, so he's asked my opinion on
> some inexpensive older vehicles to get. So, I'm going to ask here, as
> my knowledge on Jeeps is limited mostly to the years of the TJ, with
> only some sparse knowledge of older YJs or CJs. My knowledge of the
> older Cherokee/Wagoneer vehicles is limited, if not nonexistent.
>
> 1) What is a good cheap vehicle to buy? Something that will hold up
> well and not be a bear to maintain? Old Bronco? Old Wagoneer such as
> the 1997 he is looking at? Something else?
>
> 2) He has found a 1979 Wagoneer with only 10000 miles on a new engine.
> I haven't seen it, and he's not familiar with all the components to
> check, so what would come standard on this vehicle? What is good on
> it? What's bad? He says there is some rust on it...what kind of rust
> is ok and what should he run away from? How difficult is it to repair
> rust (he says there was a small rusted-through hole in the floor
> behind the drivers side seat/door)? What type of transfer case,
> transmission, axles, etc. are on this? I'm probably going to end up
> going and checking it out with him, so I want to go armed with as much
> knowledge about these particular vehicles as possible. He says the
> current owner says the "u-joints will probably need to be replaced".
> If this is so, there has probably been existing vibes in the
> driveline; any tell-tale ways to check if such vibrations have caused
> any trouble in the t-case or diffs (bearings, etc) besides the normal
> bad-seal symptom of oily diff/t-case skid?
>
> 3) Do you think a vehicle like the one mentioned here would be worth
> $900? (I understand I have little to no detail about the vehicle
> included here, I'm just telling you what he knows so far, but I'm
> hoping you can at least tell me if this year of Wagoneer could be a
> good deal in this ball park.)
>
> 4) Since the engine is new, is there anything we should check to see
> if the engine swap is good, that it was installed well and has no
> problems (hoping this isn't a case where someone had this as a project
> vehicle, futzed up the engine install, and is now trying to sell it
> off and recover a little of his money).
>
> I'll stop there, so I don't get this too terribly long. I appreciate
> any and all help and comments.
>
> Thanks,
> Bob